Weldwood

I've seen the curdling spoken of, but that usually means I've been
impatient, and need to mix the glue better. This is where a lot of
experience with making chocolate milk with powder in one's youth comes
in very handy. If you don't get the curdles and lumps out, your joint
will usually not hold, although I've gone ahead with semi-lumpy glue a
time or two and most of those joints are still good.

The temperature recommendations on the label need not be adhered to
(yak! couldn't resist) so faithfully. I've used Weldwood in my shop
where the floor temperatures can be down to the high 50s or lower
during the dry time. Allowing longer clamping time, I've had good
strong bonds in 40 degrees and below. The directions on labels are, I
believe, crafted to ensure the best possible results so that you'll
swear by the product and tell all your friends they have to as well.
There's a wide range of tolerances beyond that. If that weren't the
case, most of the boat building products, including virtually all
glues and paint, could not be used here in Alaska, where if the
temperature's right, the humidity's usually wrong.

I wouldn't necessarily write off a product after one bad experience.
It's just as possible to starve an epoxy joint and have your project
fall to pieces as it is to mismix the powdered glue. I use epoxy when
I need to fill the gaps, and try to use Weldwood for the rest, just to
keep the costs down.

Mark Z.
Juneau, Alaska
I've seen the curdling spoken of, but that usually means I've been
impatient, and need to mix the glue better. This is where a lot of
experience with making chocolate milk with powder in one's youth comes
in very handy. If you don't get the curdles and lumps out, your joint
will usually not hold, although I've gone ahead with semi-lumpy glue a
time or two and most of those joints are still good.

The temperature recommendations on the label need not be adhered to
(yak! couldn't resist) so faithfully. I've used Weldwood in my shop
where the floor temperatures can be down to the high 50s or lower
during the dry time. Allowing longer clamping time, I've had good
strong bonds in 40 degrees and below. The directions on labels are, I
believe, crafted to ensure the best possible results so that you'll
swear by the product and tell all your friends they have to as well.
There's a wide range of tolerances beyond that. If that weren't the
case, most of the boat building products, including virtually all
glues and paint, could not be used here in Alaska, where if the
temperature's right, the humidity's usually wrong.

I wouldn't necessarily write off a product after one bad experience.
It's just as possible to starve an epoxy joint and have your project
fall to pieces as it is to mismix the powdered glue. I use epoxy when
I need to fill the gaps, and try to use Weldwood for the rest, just to
keep the costs down.
>>So, I mixed up the glue and slathered it on, remarking to myself that it
looked a bit funny....sort of curdled. It was a new container, so I ignored
that warning, thinking it was just "different". I tented the clamped assy
and
got it up to 85F or so and left it clamped for 12 hours and then did the
other one.>>

In my experience, the curdled appearance indicates that the glue had somehow
got damp. I've occasionally found this even with unopened tins that have
been around too long (either in the store, or in my workshop).

Deepest sympathy. I've been there! Mind you, in ideal conditions it's
still a good glue. I recently saw a Merlin Rocket dinghy, built in the
early 60s using Cascamite (UK name for Weldwood) and still winning races.

Bill