Re: Taping
I've already rowed it with my removable seats, and they work fine, but
basically they amount to the same modified configuration as Bolger
gives, where theres a gap to step in. I also used two sets of
oarlocks. The Nymph rows very easily. Make sure you use at least the
skeg size that Bolger specifies. Inadvertently made ours slightly
undersize and definitely noticed an improvement when we corrected
this. May be a long time until I set it up to sail, considering that
we also have a Brick, so I may not be rowing it without the seats.
As far as the gear is concerned, it's a very small boat and I think it
would be hard to find much space.
basically they amount to the same modified configuration as Bolger
gives, where theres a gap to step in. I also used two sets of
oarlocks. The Nymph rows very easily. Make sure you use at least the
skeg size that Bolger specifies. Inadvertently made ours slightly
undersize and definitely noticed an improvement when we corrected
this. May be a long time until I set it up to sail, considering that
we also have a Brick, so I may not be rowing it without the seats.
As far as the gear is concerned, it's a very small boat and I think it
would be hard to find much space.
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Lincoln,
> I am glad you tried a different seat arrangment for Nymph. I
am
> interested in how it comes out. My Nymph had the longitudinal
thwart
> that was screwed in place. I also added another set of oarlocks for
> when the boat was with passenger and without. That seemed to work
> pretty well. But, when rowing passengers out to my sailboat at the
> mooring there was really no place to put the gear. Let us know how
> she rows!
> Believe it or not, "ice out" is only about 4 weeks away!
>
>
> David Jost
Lincoln,
I am glad you tried a different seat arrangment for Nymph. I am
interested in how it comes out. My Nymph had the longitudinal thwart
that was screwed in place. I also added another set of oarlocks for
when the boat was with passenger and without. That seemed to work
pretty well. But, when rowing passengers out to my sailboat at the
mooring there was really no place to put the gear. Let us know how
she rows!
Believe it or not, "ice out" is only about 4 weeks away!
David Jost
I am glad you tried a different seat arrangment for Nymph. I am
interested in how it comes out. My Nymph had the longitudinal thwart
that was screwed in place. I also added another set of oarlocks for
when the boat was with passenger and without. That seemed to work
pretty well. But, when rowing passengers out to my sailboat at the
mooring there was really no place to put the gear. Let us know how
she rows!
Believe it or not, "ice out" is only about 4 weeks away!
David Jost
I finished up a Nymph with no frames. Made the gunwhales about 2.25"
wide, and it's very rigid. I also added this to the bow and stern; not
sure if that was a good idea as it takes some fiberglass tape and
epoxy to keep it together at the joint between the gunwhales and
whatever you want to call those pieces at bow and stern. Maybe the bow
and stern would be better as Bolger designed, I don't know.
I left out the permanent seat as I thought I might eventually want a
sail rig and it would be in the way. temporary seats that can be
removed seem to work fine, but I don't know how it would row when
becalmed, with no seat.
wide, and it's very rigid. I also added this to the bow and stern; not
sure if that was a good idea as it takes some fiberglass tape and
epoxy to keep it together at the joint between the gunwhales and
whatever you want to call those pieces at bow and stern. Maybe the bow
and stern would be better as Bolger designed, I don't know.
I left out the permanent seat as I thought I might eventually want a
sail rig and it would be in the way. temporary seats that can be
removed seem to work fine, but I don't know how it would row when
becalmed, with no seat.
--- In bolger@y..., Bill Wallace <wwostar@h...> wrote:
snip
> And by the way- I built RN #1 without attaching the frames to
the
> planking in any way. When the hull was complete, seams puttied and
taped,
> I pulled the frames out, and was really surprised at what a rigid
structure
> I had. The only problem was at the top of the topsides- no rub rail
> attached- which was understandably rubbery, but also bent inward
> considerably, giving a marked "tumble home." I put the frames back
in, rub
> rail on, and had something that I think was very, very stout.
> But what think you of omitting taping the frames? It's a mess
and takes a
> lot of effort, and if it is redundant....
> Bill Wallace in Texas
---kwilson800@...wrote:
I, with
Roger
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I, with
> great seamanship and nautical wisdom, decided toNo....No water...It's so ccold. so cold.
> JUMP down into the
> Nymph. but I, at 6'3" and
> 260 lb, cannot
> jump off the end of the pier into a 7'9" boat
> without unpleasant
> consequences. So we both went swimming in 55-degree
> water, much to
> his surprise and dismay, turned the boat completely
> upside down, and
> ensured that it would be a long while before he got
> into the RN
> without looking nervous.
>
> Keith Wilson
>
Roger
__________________________________________________
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Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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My sons have collected stories like this about me. It
has brought them a lot of pleasure over the years.
Larry Barker
Talent, Oregon
Quotingkwilson800@...:
<snip> So we both went swimming in
has brought them a lot of pleasure over the years.
Larry Barker
Talent, Oregon
Quotingkwilson800@...:
<snip> So we both went swimming in
> 55-degree water, much to
> his surprise and dismay, turned the boat
> completely upside down, and
> ensured that it would be a long while before he
> got into the RN
> without looking nervous.
It would probably work fine. I built a Rubens Nymph on the cheap a
few years ago with polyester resin which is still going strong. I
used 3/4" ply for the frames and transoms. This made screwing
everything together a lot easier, and allowed me to cut the frames
down to something resembling a normal dory sawn frame. I can think
of two reasons to tape the frames other than (probably) unnecessary
strength: It's a lot easier to clean; dirt tends to accumulate in
the cracks, and it seals the plywood end-grain well, so it won't rot
as soon, although a small epoxy fillet would do both. OTOH, taking
the frames out completely and making the rail stronger would probably
work just fine also. In that case, you might want to add a normal
thwart or some other transverse brace for stiffening, though.
A small launching story: We launched the Rubens Nymph in the
Berkeley Marina, and rowed her around among all the big boats. My
son, who was nine at the time, was very pleased that he could row her
by himself he rowed all four of us for a while, then just his
mother and sister, and then wanted to take just me for a row. He was
sitting in the stern of the Nymph, at the end of the finger pier by
our larger boat (which the RN was built as a tender for), and I, with
great seamanship and nautical wisdom, decided to JUMP down into the
Nymph. Now, the RN is a very stable boat; my son could do this,
probably my wife could do this, but I, at 6'3" and 260 lb, cannot
jump off the end of the pier into a 7'9" boat without unpleasant
consequences. So we both went swimming in 55-degree water, much to
his surprise and dismay, turned the boat completely upside down, and
ensured that it would be a long while before he got into the RN
without looking nervous.
Keith Wilson
few years ago with polyester resin which is still going strong. I
used 3/4" ply for the frames and transoms. This made screwing
everything together a lot easier, and allowed me to cut the frames
down to something resembling a normal dory sawn frame. I can think
of two reasons to tape the frames other than (probably) unnecessary
strength: It's a lot easier to clean; dirt tends to accumulate in
the cracks, and it seals the plywood end-grain well, so it won't rot
as soon, although a small epoxy fillet would do both. OTOH, taking
the frames out completely and making the rail stronger would probably
work just fine also. In that case, you might want to add a normal
thwart or some other transverse brace for stiffening, though.
A small launching story: We launched the Rubens Nymph in the
Berkeley Marina, and rowed her around among all the big boats. My
son, who was nine at the time, was very pleased that he could row her
by himself he rowed all four of us for a while, then just his
mother and sister, and then wanted to take just me for a row. He was
sitting in the stern of the Nymph, at the end of the finger pier by
our larger boat (which the RN was built as a tender for), and I, with
great seamanship and nautical wisdom, decided to JUMP down into the
Nymph. Now, the RN is a very stable boat; my son could do this,
probably my wife could do this, but I, at 6'3" and 260 lb, cannot
jump off the end of the pier into a 7'9" boat without unpleasant
consequences. So we both went swimming in 55-degree water, much to
his surprise and dismay, turned the boat completely upside down, and
ensured that it would be a long while before he got into the RN
without looking nervous.
Keith Wilson
--- In bolger@y..., Bill Wallace <wwostar@h...> wrote:
> I am making grand progress on my latest Rubens Nymph, and am
wondering
> about taping the frames into place. . .
Pointy Skiff was not designed for tack and tape construction. I have
a Pointy skiff that is close to 17 years old and the construction as
listed has been fine. No problems with the external chine logs or the
plywood butt straps. The only problem was caused by using Luan Ply
instead of a good grade of exterior AC or marine. I could probably
get another 20 years out of it had I done it correctly at first.
This is probably the last year for this skiff. I will build another
one.
David Jost
. My Pointy
a Pointy skiff that is close to 17 years old and the construction as
listed has been fine. No problems with the external chine logs or the
plywood butt straps. The only problem was caused by using Luan Ply
instead of a good grade of exterior AC or marine. I could probably
get another 20 years out of it had I done it correctly at first.
This is probably the last year for this skiff. I will build another
one.
David Jost
. My Pointy
> Skiffs' frames are glued and screwed in place.
>
> Jim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bill Wallace [mailto:wwostar@h...]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:15 AM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Taping
> >
> >
> > I am making grand progress on my latest Rubens Nymph, and am
> > wondering
> > about taping the frames into place. ( I did the gluing and filleting and
> > let it set up without taping- dumb? ) The first Rubens- stolen after two
> > years- was built without taping the frames, although I did tape the
> > transoms and, of course, the seams. Even after two years of pretty good
> > battering the frames stayed nicely in place.
> > And so I am wondering.... I use epoxy and WEST's colloidal
> > silica to make
> > the filleting putty, and it turns out to be amazingly stout stuff. Is the
> > taping really necessary? The difference in strangth and bonding quality
> > between what I use and the Dynamite recommended polyester putty
> > suggests to
> > me that maybe the taping is redundant.
> > And by the way- I built RN #1 without attaching the frames to the
> > planking in any way. When the hull was complete, seams puttied and taped,
> > I pulled the frames out, and was really surprised at what a rigid
> > structure
> > I had. The only problem was at the top of the topsides- no rub rail
> > attached- which was understandably rubbery, but also bent inward
> > considerably, giving a marked "tumble home." I put the frames
> > back in, rub
> > rail on, and had something that I think was very, very stout.
> > But what think you of omitting taping the frames? It's a
> > mess and takes a
> > lot of effort, and if it is redundant....
> > Bill Wallace in Texas
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Bill,
A few well-place (and countersunk) flat head bronze wood screws through the
hull into a frame is a lot quicker and, for me, a lot less messy. My Pointy
Skiffs' frames are glued and screwed in place.
Jim
A few well-place (and countersunk) flat head bronze wood screws through the
hull into a frame is a lot quicker and, for me, a lot less messy. My Pointy
Skiffs' frames are glued and screwed in place.
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Wallace [mailto:wwostar@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:15 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Taping
>
>
> I am making grand progress on my latest Rubens Nymph, and am
> wondering
> about taping the frames into place. ( I did the gluing and filleting and
> let it set up without taping- dumb? ) The first Rubens- stolen after two
> years- was built without taping the frames, although I did tape the
> transoms and, of course, the seams. Even after two years of pretty good
> battering the frames stayed nicely in place.
> And so I am wondering.... I use epoxy and WEST's colloidal
> silica to make
> the filleting putty, and it turns out to be amazingly stout stuff. Is the
> taping really necessary? The difference in strangth and bonding quality
> between what I use and the Dynamite recommended polyester putty
> suggests to
> me that maybe the taping is redundant.
> And by the way- I built RN #1 without attaching the frames to the
> planking in any way. When the hull was complete, seams puttied and taped,
> I pulled the frames out, and was really surprised at what a rigid
> structure
> I had. The only problem was at the top of the topsides- no rub rail
> attached- which was understandably rubbery, but also bent inward
> considerably, giving a marked "tumble home." I put the frames
> back in, rub
> rail on, and had something that I think was very, very stout.
> But what think you of omitting taping the frames? It's a
> mess and takes a
> lot of effort, and if it is redundant....
> Bill Wallace in Texas
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I am making grand progress on my latest Rubens Nymph, and am wondering
about taping the frames into place. ( I did the gluing and filleting and
let it set up without taping- dumb? ) The first Rubens- stolen after two
years- was built without taping the frames, although I did tape the
transoms and, of course, the seams. Even after two years of pretty good
battering the frames stayed nicely in place.
And so I am wondering.... I use epoxy and WEST's colloidal silica to make
the filleting putty, and it turns out to be amazingly stout stuff. Is the
taping really necessary? The difference in strangth and bonding quality
between what I use and the Dynamite recommended polyester putty suggests to
me that maybe the taping is redundant.
And by the way- I built RN #1 without attaching the frames to the
planking in any way. When the hull was complete, seams puttied and taped,
I pulled the frames out, and was really surprised at what a rigid structure
I had. The only problem was at the top of the topsides- no rub rail
attached- which was understandably rubbery, but also bent inward
considerably, giving a marked "tumble home." I put the frames back in, rub
rail on, and had something that I think was very, very stout.
But what think you of omitting taping the frames? It's a mess and takes a
lot of effort, and if it is redundant....
Bill Wallace in Texas
about taping the frames into place. ( I did the gluing and filleting and
let it set up without taping- dumb? ) The first Rubens- stolen after two
years- was built without taping the frames, although I did tape the
transoms and, of course, the seams. Even after two years of pretty good
battering the frames stayed nicely in place.
And so I am wondering.... I use epoxy and WEST's colloidal silica to make
the filleting putty, and it turns out to be amazingly stout stuff. Is the
taping really necessary? The difference in strangth and bonding quality
between what I use and the Dynamite recommended polyester putty suggests to
me that maybe the taping is redundant.
And by the way- I built RN #1 without attaching the frames to the
planking in any way. When the hull was complete, seams puttied and taped,
I pulled the frames out, and was really surprised at what a rigid structure
I had. The only problem was at the top of the topsides- no rub rail
attached- which was understandably rubbery, but also bent inward
considerably, giving a marked "tumble home." I put the frames back in, rub
rail on, and had something that I think was very, very stout.
But what think you of omitting taping the frames? It's a mess and takes a
lot of effort, and if it is redundant....
Bill Wallace in Texas