Re: [bolger] RE: Adding a Skeg
> You'll get weight for ballast too. Trex is made of recycled plasticgrocery bags and wood fiber, and
> occassional very small pieces of metal and other trash, which is hard onsaw blades. I don't know how
> it does at holding screws or what kind of glue would bite. I did put ascrap in the water and it does
> just float, so I guess you would have about neutral ballast, really. ClydeAnd, Trex is make from polyethylene similar to the uhmw that we talked about
>
> Hal Lynch wrote:
earlier. This stuff is more readily available, though. I would be inclined
to put a bolt through it as if it were lead. My guess is it would not have
quite the abrasion resistance of uhmw, but the advantage over wood, is that
it would not take up much water, and it does not rot.
Chuck
You'll get weight for ballast too. Trex is made of recycled plastic grocery bags and wood fiber, and
occassional very small pieces of metal and other trash, which is hard on saw blades. I don't know how
it does at holding screws or what kind of glue would bite. I did put a scrap in the water and it does
just float, so I guess you would have about neutral ballast, really. Clyde
Hal Lynch wrote:
occassional very small pieces of metal and other trash, which is hard on saw blades. I don't know how
it does at holding screws or what kind of glue would bite. I did put a scrap in the water and it does
just float, so I guess you would have about neutral ballast, really. Clyde
Hal Lynch wrote:
> At 12:01 PM +0000 3/14/01,garth@...wrote:
> >
> >I made a skeg out of 1X4 pine (unglassed) for my Michalak Toto last
> >year and after one season -- including dragging it short distances to
> >various ponds and streams, and paddling through shallow stony rapids
> >now and then -- it looks like it has been chewed upon by a pack of
> >hyenas. The rest of the boat looks fine -- sheathed in glass.
> >
> > So, I don't know about the ply vs. pine question, but whatever you
> >choose, definitely run a strip of fiberglass down the edge of your
> >skeg, or screw on a metal rubbing strip. Small investment of time and
> >a dollar or two, big gain in durability for a high-wear area.
>
> Has anyone tried making a skeg out of Trex? I am thinking of
> using it for the skeg on my Teal. It is supposed to saw and
> finish just like wood although it is not as stiff.
>
> hal
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
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> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
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> In Tolman's book, "Building the Alaskan skiff", he mentions using aDavid:
> high density plastic for rub rails and gunwales. This is dimensional
> stuff but is pretty pricey as I understand.
>
> There, my 4 cents worth.
> David Jost
I just used some UHMW from McMaster-Carr to make the sliding hatches on my
Caprice work smoothly. This stuff is almost as good as Teflon, or Nylon,
but much cheaper. It stands for ultra-high molecular weight (polyethylene).
Chuck
In Tolman's book, "Building the Alaskan skiff", he mentions using a
high density plastic for rub rails and gunwales. This is dimensional
stuff but is pretty pricey as I understand.
There, my 4 cents worth.
David Jost
high density plastic for rub rails and gunwales. This is dimensional
stuff but is pretty pricey as I understand.
There, my 4 cents worth.
David Jost
>bashing over
>teflon material they use on the bottom of aluminum jetboats for
> >river rocks? It seems to be quite tough, and I imagine it would beavailable
> >through plastics dealers most anywhere.
> >
>Just my two cents, but what about making a skeg out of that high densityGreat idea. If I understand correctly the teflon stuff is
>teflon material they use on the bottom of aluminum jetboats for bashing over
>river rocks? It seems to be quite tough, and I imagine it would be available
>through plastics dealers most anywhere.
>
>Alex Christie
in sheets. Trex comes in dimensional sizes (2x4 etc). It's
claim to fame is that it is not wood but except for rot and
stiffness acts like it, so scars and scraps are no big deal.
Teflon edged trex should make a killer skeg.
Just my two cents, but what about making a skeg out of that high density
teflon material they use on the bottom of aluminum jetboats for bashing over
river rocks? It seems to be quite tough, and I imagine it would be available
through plastics dealers most anywhere.
Alex Christie
teflon material they use on the bottom of aluminum jetboats for bashing over
river rocks? It seems to be quite tough, and I imagine it would be available
through plastics dealers most anywhere.
Alex Christie
> Has anyone tried making a skeg out of Trex? I am thinking of
> using it for the skeg on my Teal. It is supposed to saw and
> finish just like wood although it is not as stiff.
>
> hal
>
I put a full length skeg / plank keel on Diablo to help in track
straighter in a slow trolling speed. It tracks a little better in a
cross breeze, and does not interfere with the higher speeds at all. I
left the skeg about 2 feet shy of the transom as I discovered that if
you carry it all the way aft you get a spectacular rooster tail! With
a stiff breeze behind the boat the tail would come into the boat.
I am not convinced that the boat does significantly better with the
addition. I do know we caught less fish as we did not lay broadsides
during a natural drift. I may remove it entirely this year and
compare the results. the skeg makes trailering and beaching a little
more difficult.
David Jost
straighter in a slow trolling speed. It tracks a little better in a
cross breeze, and does not interfere with the higher speeds at all. I
left the skeg about 2 feet shy of the transom as I discovered that if
you carry it all the way aft you get a spectacular rooster tail! With
a stiff breeze behind the boat the tail would come into the boat.
I am not convinced that the boat does significantly better with the
addition. I do know we caught less fish as we did not lay broadsides
during a natural drift. I may remove it entirely this year and
compare the results. the skeg makes trailering and beaching a little
more difficult.
David Jost
At 12:01 PM +0000 3/14/01,garth@...wrote:
using it for the skeg on my Teal. It is supposed to saw and
finish just like wood although it is not as stiff.
hal
>Has anyone tried making a skeg out of Trex? I am thinking of
>I made a skeg out of 1X4 pine (unglassed) for my Michalak Toto last
>year and after one season -- including dragging it short distances to
>various ponds and streams, and paddling through shallow stony rapids
>now and then -- it looks like it has been chewed upon by a pack of
>hyenas. The rest of the boat looks fine -- sheathed in glass.
>
> So, I don't know about the ply vs. pine question, but whatever you
>choose, definitely run a strip of fiberglass down the edge of your
>skeg, or screw on a metal rubbing strip. Small investment of time and
>a dollar or two, big gain in durability for a high-wear area.
using it for the skeg on my Teal. It is supposed to saw and
finish just like wood although it is not as stiff.
hal
> Would it be better to laminate 2 sections if 1/4" plyI made a skeg out of 1X4 pine (unglassed) for my Michalak Toto last
> or just cut down some 1x6 pine? With either choice should I
> fiberglass the skeg, or just epoxy it?
year and after one season -- including dragging it short distances to
various ponds and streams, and paddling through shallow stony rapids
now and then -- it looks like it has been chewed upon by a pack of
hyenas. The rest of the boat looks fine -- sheathed in glass.
So, I don't know about the ply vs. pine question, but whatever you
choose, definitely run a strip of fiberglass down the edge of your
skeg, or screw on a metal rubbing strip. Small investment of time and
a dollar or two, big gain in durability for a high-wear area.
All best,
Garth
(watching flurries this morning, expecting spring sometime in August)
In a message dated 03/13/2001 11:<BR00:<BR21 PM
Eastern Standard,boomer_rabbit@...writes:
Cheers/Carron
Eastern Standard,boomer_rabbit@...writes:
> cut down some 1x6 pine?Best...easier to attach.
>With either choice should I fiberglass the skeg, or just epoxy it?>Make it easy. Glue it on and paint it.
Cheers/Carron
Okay - per previous post I built a tiny boat (not a bolger design,
guess that was were I went wrong ;-D ). Anyway, I was able to move
the oarlocks out by cutting 2x4 into a half decent shape and
epoxying/screwing the 2x4 to the gunwales. That should help a little
in rowing, although not terribly pretty.
The next thing to attack is directional stability. I was thinking of
adding a skeg. Would it be better to laminate 2 sections if 1/4" ply
or just cut down some 1x6 pine? With either choice should I
fiberglass the skeg, or just epoxy it?
Thanks - Bruce
guess that was were I went wrong ;-D ). Anyway, I was able to move
the oarlocks out by cutting 2x4 into a half decent shape and
epoxying/screwing the 2x4 to the gunwales. That should help a little
in rowing, although not terribly pretty.
The next thing to attack is directional stability. I was thinking of
adding a skeg. Would it be better to laminate 2 sections if 1/4" ply
or just cut down some 1x6 pine? With either choice should I
fiberglass the skeg, or just epoxy it?
Thanks - Bruce