Re: [bolger] Re: Adding a Skeg - UHMW
A few additional comments
I have used it a lot as sled runners, both snow machine and dog. It will last for thousands of miles
on snow.
It is used on snowmachines as the slider the track rests on, another source of extrusions.
I can't imagine a use on a boat where you would need replace ability, (new word?) because the boast
would wear out long before the UHMW.
It expands and contracts a lot in different temperatures, if you put it on a sled in below 0 weather,
it will scallop on a hot day between the screws. If I were going to put it on a rub rail. I would do
it on a hot day.
HJ
kwilson800@...wrote:
I have used it a lot as sled runners, both snow machine and dog. It will last for thousands of miles
on snow.
It is used on snowmachines as the slider the track rests on, another source of extrusions.
I can't imagine a use on a boat where you would need replace ability, (new word?) because the boast
would wear out long before the UHMW.
It expands and contracts a lot in different temperatures, if you put it on a sled in below 0 weather,
it will scallop on a hot day between the screws. If I were going to put it on a rub rail. I would do
it on a hot day.
HJ
kwilson800@...wrote:
> UHMW polyethylene (stands for "ultra high molecular weight" - 6
> million and up) is more abrasion resistant than any other readily-
> available plastic by a large margin. I've seen applications where it
> will outlast hardened steel ten to one. It machines easily enough
> with standard woodworking tools, although it's hard to get a good
> surface finish. Be careful when drilling with a hand drill, as it
> will tend to pull the bit into the material. Don't bother trying to
> glue it; mechanical fasteners are the only way to go. It can be
> tapped, although with some difficulty.
>
> It's great stuff; for a skeg I'd probably just use a rubstrip along
> the edge, fastened with countersunk screws, if only because it's more
> expensive than wood.
>
UHMW polyethylene (stands for "ultra high molecular weight" - 6
million and up) is more abrasion resistant than any other readily-
available plastic by a large margin. I've seen applications where it
will outlast hardened steel ten to one. It machines easily enough
with standard woodworking tools, although it's hard to get a good
surface finish. Be careful when drilling with a hand drill, as it
will tend to pull the bit into the material. Don't bother trying to
glue it; mechanical fasteners are the only way to go. It can be
tapped, although with some difficulty.
It's great stuff; for a skeg I'd probably just use a rubstrip along
the edge, fastened with countersunk screws, if only because it's more
expensive than wood.
million and up) is more abrasion resistant than any other readily-
available plastic by a large margin. I've seen applications where it
will outlast hardened steel ten to one. It machines easily enough
with standard woodworking tools, although it's hard to get a good
surface finish. Be careful when drilling with a hand drill, as it
will tend to pull the bit into the material. Don't bother trying to
glue it; mechanical fasteners are the only way to go. It can be
tapped, although with some difficulty.
It's great stuff; for a skeg I'd probably just use a rubstrip along
the edge, fastened with countersunk screws, if only because it's more
expensive than wood.
>There is no question that Trex is heavier than wood. For a skeg that
>My impression is that Trex is VERY heavy; might as well use metal.
>
>Curtis
would probably be an advantage.
I have convinced myself to try it. if I ever get my Teal finished I
will report.
hal
> I came across this source:lengths
>http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/usplastic/sheet38.htm
> Seems cheap, 1/2" x 3" for $3, and I think these prices are for 10'
> (but not sure). Shipping costs might be a problem.Curtis:
> A setup for "welding" this stuff costs a few hundred bucks. I guess it
> would have to be screwed or bolted through the bottom...
>
> How is it to work? Standard woodworking tools?
>
> My impression is that Trex is VERY heavy; might as well use metal.
>
> Curtis
That's the stuff. You have to use screws or bolts, as you cannot glue this
stuff. It can be welded, but only to itself. For best results, use a
forstner bit to drill halfway through the thickness, then use a flat head
screw or bolt with a washer to spread the load - those SS finish washers for
oval head screws would work too. Cut the stuff with regular woodworking
tools, but use slower speeds when possible (especially drilling) to avoid
melting the plastic.
Chuck
I wear through about 1/4" of glass/epoxy per year on the bows of my skiff -
and the glass/polyester on the first 2' of Diablo's bottom peeled right off
last fall (rough rock landings). Am considering using UHMW as a wear
surface, also as a surface for "skids" for dragging boats out.
I came across this source:
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/usplastic/sheet38.htm
Seems cheap, 1/2" x 3" for $3, and I think these prices are for 10' lengths
(but not sure). Shipping costs might be a problem.
A setup for "welding" this stuff costs a few hundred bucks. I guess it
would have to be screwed or bolted through the bottom...
How is it to work? Standard woodworking tools?
My impression is that Trex is VERY heavy; might as well use metal.
Curtis
and the glass/polyester on the first 2' of Diablo's bottom peeled right off
last fall (rough rock landings). Am considering using UHMW as a wear
surface, also as a surface for "skids" for dragging boats out.
I came across this source:
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/usplastic/sheet38.htm
Seems cheap, 1/2" x 3" for $3, and I think these prices are for 10' lengths
(but not sure). Shipping costs might be a problem.
A setup for "welding" this stuff costs a few hundred bucks. I guess it
would have to be screwed or bolted through the bottom...
How is it to work? Standard woodworking tools?
My impression is that Trex is VERY heavy; might as well use metal.
Curtis
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 6:56 AM
Subject: [bolger] Digest Number 419
> David:
>
> I just used some UHMW from McMaster-Carr to make the sliding hatches on my
> Caprice work smoothly. This stuff is almost as good as Teflon, or Nylon,
> but much cheaper. It stands for ultra-high molecular weight
(polyethylene).
>
> Chuck
>