Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

And looking at another time-zone map, Chile is actually exactly on Eastern Standard Time (E.S.T.) ‘East-Coast Time’, as is Gloucester, MA. 
 
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 10:03 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

... look BEST... Almost made it through without much of a typo...
 
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 9:52 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 


From here in Gloucester, thanks you all for this ‘Olde Timey’ discussion on little old OLD SHOE no less.
Who says YAHOO GROUPS is ‘dead’ ?!
Not just because we are coming up on Halloween and all, this ‘Living Dead’ YAHOO GROUP reality here suits me just fine, seems full of enough life, judging by the spirit and caliber of the discussion.

As for so many years before, sooner or later, solid perspectives emerge and do add up, especially, as here, when some come from those familiar with the original configuration of the given design up for discussion – here Design #449 OLD SHOE.
Good, for instance, to read David Cobb’s experience aboard sailing his around in ‘The Other Down-Under’ – Chile that is.

(From Gloucester, MA, Australia is 9-10 time-zones and about 10,000 miles away, with Chile apparently 1 hour ahead and 5200 miles away; at least I could attempt to take the car to Santiago de Chile... and way further south yet, to end up closer to the South Pole than any place in Australia.
GOOGLE EARTH offers plenty of gratifications, as Phil enjoyed a lot, having been a member of the National Geographic Society and ‘Map-Freak’ since the mid-30s.)


Reading the exchanges, it seems to me that – or I missed it somehow – that the long sloping leading-edge of the keel has not been looked at yet. 
Fairing of the wider keel into the rudder has seen proper focus already.
But, if the Leading Edge up-front is much broader than intended, and then totally alu-welding correct ‘square’, then the keel behind it would be badly compromised in its function all the way aft to the rudder.

A reasonably ‘doable’ option would be to through-bolt a half-round addition out of, say, initially just pressure-treated lumber, cut, stacked, bolted-together and faired for a removable ‘test’-addition.
If she is really this blunt up-front, then this should really help her.
Once this assumption is indeed confirmed under sail and power, making a copy out of bent alu-(half-)pipe(s) for a permanent installation would seem called for.
I’d be tempted to make that addition ‘dry’, as in permanently enclosed via solid welded caps.


On the trolling-motor propulsion-option to make the batteries in the wider keel do double-duty - as no doubt intended by the builder - then our Electric Launch LILY (Design #627) may offer some insights.
On 15’4” overall length, her waterline is some 14.5’ long by 4’4” wide and did reach 3.8 knots with the low-pitch 11”x4” weed-less plastic prop on the 65 lbs-rated MINNKOTA. 
She carries 6x 12V Sched. 27 mild ‘deep-cycle’ batteries for 7-8 hrs of running with 4 adults aboard before the batteries get too discharged for long-term health.
OLD SHOE is 5’ wide and shorter and thus has more drag, but could still match LILY’s prop-pitch-limited speed in a calm, assuming a healthy trolling-motor.
Down-wind more without the drag of her masts – but then you would be sailing anyway.
Seems like you have decent ‘Get-Home’-Power aboard her now – apart from sweeps that is... 


Good luck, Buddy, on getting her fine-tuned to make her and you look the nest.
Feel free to share pictures of her as is with this office here atphilbolger@....

”YAHOO GROUP... it’s alive, alive...”
Alright, I’ll wind down now.. hanging upside-down from the rafters... or not.
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F

Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 3:19 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

Is there a screw on the housing looking like it has no function?

 

IFIRC the safety wire keeps the housing or external parts that might be touched at the same potential (voltage). If internal hot wires should contact the housing, the current will short through the safety green instead of some poor soul holding on to the device. In a very simple system (one battery, no AC around) green and could be tied together, preferably at the battery.

 

Good luck

Andrew

 

Sent fromOutlook




From:bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of BllFs6@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:30 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

 
Thanks for that info.
 
I figured such a heavy guage wire had to do SOMETHING.
 
So, do I need to tie it into the black ground wire or something else?
 
Thanks again for the input!
 
Looking forward to Friday.
 



-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 26, 2017 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.
 
 
Sent fromOutlook



From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 
At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.
 
On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.
 
Very much looking forward to Friday!
 
Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!
 
Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
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Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com
 
.

... look BEST... Almost made it through without much of a typo...
 
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 9:52 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 


From here in Gloucester, thanks you all for this ‘Olde Timey’ discussion on little old OLD SHOE no less.
Who says YAHOO GROUPS is ‘dead’ ?!
Not just because we are coming up on Halloween and all, this ‘Living Dead’ YAHOO GROUP reality here suits me just fine, seems full of enough life, judging by the spirit and caliber of the discussion.

As for so many years before, sooner or later, solid perspectives emerge and do add up, especially, as here, when some come from those familiar with the original configuration of the given design up for discussion – here Design #449 OLD SHOE.
Good, for instance, to read David Cobb’s experience aboard sailing his around in ‘The Other Down-Under’ – Chile that is.

(From Gloucester, MA, Australia is 9-10 time-zones and about 10,000 miles away, with Chile apparently 1 hour ahead and 5200 miles away; at least I could attempt to take the car to Santiago de Chile... and way further south yet, to end up closer to the South Pole than any place in Australia.
GOOGLE EARTH offers plenty of gratifications, as Phil enjoyed a lot, having been a member of the National Geographic Society and ‘Map-Freak’ since the mid-30s.)


Reading the exchanges, it seems to me that – or I missed it somehow – that the long sloping leading-edge of the keel has not been looked at yet. 
Fairing of the wider keel into the rudder has seen proper focus already.
But, if the Leading Edge up-front is much broader than intended, and then totally alu-welding correct ‘square’, then the keel behind it would be badly compromised in its function all the way aft to the rudder.

A reasonably ‘doable’ option would be to through-bolt a half-round addition out of, say, initially just pressure-treated lumber, cut, stacked, bolted-together and faired for a removable ‘test’-addition.
If she is really this blunt up-front, then this should really help her.
Once this assumption is indeed confirmed under sail and power, making a copy out of bent alu-(half-)pipe(s) for a permanent installation would seem called for.
I’d be tempted to make that addition ‘dry’, as in permanently enclosed via solid welded caps.


On the trolling-motor propulsion-option to make the batteries in the wider keel do double-duty - as no doubt intended by the builder - then our Electric Launch LILY (Design #627) may offer some insights.
On 15’4” overall length, her waterline is some 14.5’ long by 4’4” wide and did reach 3.8 knots with the low-pitch 11”x4” weed-less plastic prop on the 65 lbs-rated MINNKOTA. 
She carries 6x 12V Sched. 27 mild ‘deep-cycle’ batteries for 7-8 hrs of running with 4 adults aboard before the batteries get too discharged for long-term health.
OLD SHOE is 5’ wide and shorter and thus has more drag, but could still match LILY’s prop-pitch-limited speed in a calm, assuming a healthy trolling-motor.
Down-wind more without the drag of her masts – but then you would be sailing anyway.
Seems like you have decent ‘Get-Home’-Power aboard her now – apart from sweeps that is... 


Good luck, Buddy, on getting her fine-tuned to make her and you look the nest.
Feel free to share pictures of her as is with this office here atphilbolger@....

”YAHOO GROUP... it’s alive, alive...”
Alright, I’ll wind down now.. hanging upside-down from the rafters... or not.
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F

Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 3:19 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

Is there a screw on the housing looking like it has no function?

 

IFIRC the safety wire keeps the housing or external parts that might be touched at the same potential (voltage). If internal hot wires should contact the housing, the current will short through the safety green instead of some poor soul holding on to the device. In a very simple system (one battery, no AC around) green and could be tied together, preferably at the battery.

 

Good luck

Andrew

 

Sent fromOutlook




From:bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of BllFs6@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:30 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

 
Thanks for that info.
 
I figured such a heavy guage wire had to do SOMETHING.
 
So, do I need to tie it into the black ground wire or something else?
 
Thanks again for the input!
 
Looking forward to Friday.
 



-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 26, 2017 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.
 
 
Sent fromOutlook



From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 
At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.
 
On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.
 
Very much looking forward to Friday!
 
Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!
 
Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com
 
.


From here in Gloucester, thanks you all for this ‘Olde Timey’ discussion on little old OLD SHOE no less.
Who says YAHOO GROUPS is ‘dead’ ?!
Not just because we are coming up on Halloween and all, this ‘Living Dead’ YAHOO GROUP reality here suits me just fine, seems full of enough life, judging by the spirit and caliber of the discussion.

As for so many years before, sooner or later, solid perspectives emerge and do add up, especially, as here, when some come from those familiar with the original configuration of the given design up for discussion – here Design #449 OLD SHOE.
Good, for instance, to read David Cobb’s experience aboard sailing his around in ‘The Other Down-Under’ – Chile that is.

(From Gloucester, MA, Australia is 9-10 time-zones and about 10,000 miles away, with Chile apparently 1 hour ahead and 5200 miles away; at least I could attempt to take the car to Santiago de Chile... and way further south yet, to end up closer to the South Pole than any place in Australia.
GOOGLE EARTH offers plenty of gratifications, as Phil enjoyed a lot, having been a member of the National Geographic Society and ‘Map-Freak’ since the mid-30s.)


Reading the exchanges, it seems to me that – or I missed it somehow – that the long sloping leading-edge of the keel has not been looked at yet. 
Fairing of the wider keel into the rudder has seen proper focus already.
But, if the Leading Edge up-front is much broader than intended, and then totally alu-welding correct ‘square’, then the keel behind it would be badly compromised in its function all the way aft to the rudder.

A reasonably ‘doable’ option would be to through-bolt a half-round addition out of, say, initially just pressure-treated lumber, cut, stacked, bolted-together and faired for a removable ‘test’-addition.
If she is really this blunt up-front, then this should really help her.
Once this assumption is indeed confirmed under sail and power, making a copy out of bent alu-(half-)pipe(s) for a permanent installation would seem called for.
I’d be tempted to make that addition ‘dry’, as in permanently enclosed via solid welded caps.


On the trolling-motor propulsion-option to make the batteries in the wider keel do double-duty - as no doubt intended by the builder - then our Electric Launch LILY (Design #627) may offer some insights.
On 15’4” overall length, her waterline is some 14.5’ long by 4’4” wide and did reach 3.8 knots with the low-pitch 11”x4” weed-less plastic prop on the 65 lbs-rated MINNKOTA. 
She carries 6x 12V Sched. 27 mild ‘deep-cycle’ batteries for 7-8 hrs of running with 4 adults aboard before the batteries get too discharged for long-term health.
OLD SHOE is 5’ wide and shorter and thus has more drag, but could still match LILY’s prop-pitch-limited speed in a calm, assuming a healthy trolling-motor.
Down-wind more without the drag of her masts – but then you would be sailing anyway.
Seems like you have decent ‘Get-Home’-Power aboard her now – apart from sweeps that is... 


Good luck, Buddy, on getting her fine-tuned to make her and you look the nest.
Feel free to share pictures of her as is with this office here atphilbolger@....

”YAHOO GROUP... it’s alive, alive...”
Alright, I’ll wind down now.. hanging upside-down from the rafters... or not.
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F

Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 3:19 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

Is there a screw on the housing looking like it has no function?

 

IFIRC the safety wire keeps the housing or external parts that might be touched at the same potential (voltage). If internal hot wires should contact the housing, the current will short through the safety green instead of some poor soul holding on to the device. In a very simple system (one battery, no AC around) green and could be tied together, preferably at the battery.

 

Good luck

Andrew

 

Sent fromOutlook




From:bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of BllFs6@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:30 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

 
Thanks for that info.
 
I figured such a heavy guage wire had to do SOMETHING.
 
So, do I need to tie it into the black ground wire or something else?
 
Thanks again for the input!
 
Looking forward to Friday.
 



-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 26, 2017 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.
 
 
Sent fromOutlook



From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 
At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.
 
On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.
 
Very much looking forward to Friday!
 
Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!
 
Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com
 
.

Is there a screw on the housing looking like it has no function?


IFIRC the safety wire keeps the housing or external parts that might be touched at the same potential (voltage). If internal hot wires should contact the housing, the current will short through the safety green instead of some poor soul holding on to the device. In a very simple system (one battery, no AC around) green and could be tied together, preferably at the battery.


Good luck

Andrew


Sent fromOutlook




From:bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of BllFs6@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 1:30 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 


Thanks for that info.

I figured such a heavy guage wire had to do SOMETHING.

So, do I need to tie it into the black ground wire or something else?

Thanks again for the input!

Looking forward to Friday.




-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 26, 2017 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.


Sent fromOutlook



From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 
At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.

On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com

.


Thanks for that info.

I figured such a heavy guage wire had to do SOMETHING.

So, do I need to tie it into the black ground wire or something else?

Thanks again for the input!

Looking forward to Friday.




-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 26, 2017 8:17 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.


Sent fromOutlook



From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 
At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.

On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
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.

The GREEN wire is safety ground, functionally not important but good for safety.



Sent fromOutlook




From:bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of 'wordzenpix .' wordzenpix@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Thursday, October 26, 2017 12:15 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe
 
 

At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.

On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com

.

That's actually pretty impressive.

On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com

.

At almost 3mph, you had the full 12 volts, full thrust. Red and black are primary and ground or positive and negative as you prefer.

On Oct 25, 2017 4:52 PM, "BllFs6@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups.com

.

Got to do a trolling motor test with the Old Shoe today.

Got a late start....so decided not to unfurl the sails. Just put the masts up, kept the sails furled and headed directly into the wind.. Wind was about 10 mph. Chop was pretty darn light and low....about 6 inches.

Averaged about 2.8 mph for about an hour and half...with a total distance traveled of 4.5 miles.

Had two batteries...but probably not fully charged...and probably not in very good shape either.

Trolling motor is nominally a 50 lb thrust model I believe. When I went to rig things up at home today...found out the darn thing wouldn't work !

Opened up the head...could not see what was wrong...then it occurred to me to just bypass all the fancy electronics...snipped some wires...did some work and ended up just running the motor with 12 volts direct.

One thing was odd about wiring though....there was a black wire, a red wire, and a green wire leading to the motor. The only thing that made the motor run was applying voltage to the red wire and black wire. red and green or green and black did nothing.

So, not sure I was running at 50 lbs of thrust. Will measure it next time out...which will hopefully be this coming friday. Wind looks favorable in strength friday and comes from a direction I can work with. Will be able to get some idea of how well this version of an OldShoe sails upwind.

I'm fairly pleased with the trolling motor performance. Looks at least workable for me short term. Beat rowing for sure ! Nice and quite and no fumes or gas to mess with.

Very much looking forward to Friday!

Thanks again for all the thoughtful input folks!

Buddy



















Posted by: "wordzenpix ." <wordzenpix@...>

Reply via web postReply to senderReply to groupStart a New TopicMessages in this topic(65)

Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

Bolger rules!!!
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:  bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

.

Lotsa guns at that link, no Oldshoe.

Whack-boing! It's dub!
thecheappages dot com
====================

Good, thoughtful analysis.

On Oct 23, 2017 6:50 PM, "dir_cobb@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Buddy

I agree that Oldshoe has a certain eccentricity that makes her even more attractive to some of us than would first meet the eye. You will find that what impresses people most is that she not only sails but does so well.

Per my back of the envelope maths, I reckon your wider keel increases displacement by about 170lbs, meaning you will need that sort of additional weight to get her to float on her lines.

Per plan she should float with her bow transom about 7”above the water and her stern transom about 5.5” above the water at her designed displacement of 821 lbs. which I assume includes 2 crew. (I stand to be corrected).

I’ve no idea what your boat weighs, but it’s safe to assume you need to get her to float close to her lines in order for her to have a chance of sailing as designed (which is the challenge). In theory, at least, you will need to compensate the extra (volumetric) displacement with extra ballast (hopefully low down and near the longitudinal center of the boat).

Depending on the weight and number of the deep cycle batteries you are using, you maybe can do it all with those. However, if you can’t, I would suggest you take along a few 2-5 gal plastic water carriers so you can add weight ad lib until you get it right (and you don’t have to trailer the extra ballast around).

Considering that for sailing you don’t want weight in the ends of the boat, I would suggest you restrict all ballast to the space of the keel directly beneath the cockpit area (evenly distributed lengthwise) and ensure it can’t move about. You could add additional ballast (permanent, removable or water) in the center of the space under the cockpit seats (same amount each side of center) if you don’t have enough space for the ballast in the keel (depending on the material you use as ballast).

If the redesigner got the balance of batteries and extra displacement right, all these thoughts are a waste of time. However the the thought process has been fun.

David

Hi Buddy

I agree that Oldshoe has a certain eccentricity that makes her even more attractive to some of us than would first meet the eye. You will find that what impresses people most is that she not only sails but does so well.

Per my back of the envelope maths, I reckon your wider keel increases displacement by about 170lbs, meaning you will need that sort of additional weight to get her to float on her lines.

Per plan she should float with her bow transom about 7”above the water and her stern transom about 5.5” above the water at her designed displacement of 821 lbs. which I assume includes 2 crew. (I stand to be corrected).

I’ve no idea what your boat weighs, but it’s safe to assume you need to get her to float close to her lines in order for her to have a chance of sailing as designed (which is the challenge). In theory, at least, you will need to compensate the extra (volumetric) displacement with extra ballast (hopefully low down and near the longitudinal center of the boat).

Depending on the weight and number of the deep cycle batteries you are using, you maybe can do it all with those. However, if you can’t, I would suggest you take along a few 2-5 gal plastic water carriers so you can add weight ad lib until you get it right (and you don’t have to trailer the extra ballast around).

Considering that for sailing you don’t want weight in the ends of the boat, I would suggest you restrict all ballast to the space of the keel directly beneath the cockpit area (evenly distributed lengthwise) and ensure it can’t move about. You could add additional ballast (permanent, removable or water) in the center of the space under the cockpit seats (same amount each side of center) if you don’t have enough space for the ballast in the keel (depending on the material you use as ballast).

If the redesigner got the balance of batteries and extra displacement right, all these thoughts are a waste of time. However the the thought process has been fun.

David


Hi all been on vacation with very limited internet.

Thanks for all the replies about my "Oldshoe". Will try to get to the other useful posts later after I get a bit more settled here back at home.

I'm sure Mr Bolger would not consider this an Olshoe..but for me it is close enough for government work.
 
It has the hull shape of an Oldshoe. It has the size (I still can't get over how big this small boat feels when you sit inside it). It has the low draft keel (very important for being able to trailer/launch it...any other option would be a non starter for me). It has all that weight down low (makes for nice stability). The nice high sides. The cat yawl rig...both a bit uncommon and useful in some ways. And just the general vibe of the unusual configuration of the whole thing being a result of practical solutions to certain design and built considerations.

The wide keel is (or at least could be) problematic when it comes to sailing...particularly up wind. But I knew that going in. And there are fixes for that and some other possible issues. Then again, the wide keel wasn't done on a whim either. It does confer the advantage of being able to use deep cycle batteries as ballast...a potentially very useful feature that a regular Oldshoe does not have.

Again, thanks for all the input. With a bit of luck I go sailing this week and or get to test out how a 50 lb thrust trolling motor works out.

Will get back to other posts a bit later.

take care

Buddy


-----Original Message-----
From: dir_cobb@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, Oct 21, 2017 10:00 pm
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
Hi John

I suspect this is the Oldshoe we’re discussing. I fear the modifier/builder/tinker(er) didn’t consider drag. I assume someone bought it at the stage shown and finished her along those lines. (See the first post).

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/#/topics/251725

The person who finished her probably cursed Bolger and sold it on, blaming the designer for the ills...

I remember Suzanne commenting that Phil would look at a boat ostensibly to his design and immediately notice the change(s) after which he denied paternity.

I sincerely hope we can contribute to make the boat sail well. Assuming it is this boat, it is very much in the experimental territory stage, well outside the scope of the designers responsibility (although he is likely to get blamed anyway).

David.
Hi John

I suspect this is the Oldshoe we’re discussing. I fear the modifier/builder/tinker(er) didn’t consider drag. I assume someone bought it at the stage shown and finished her along those lines. (See the first post).

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/#/topics/251725

The person who finished her probably cursed Bolger and sold it on, blaming the designer for the ills...

I remember Suzanne commenting that Phil would look at a boat ostensibly to his design and immediately notice the change(s) after which he denied paternity.

I sincerely hope we can contribute to make the boat sail well. Assuming it is this boat, it is very much in the experimental territory stage, well outside the scope of the designers responsibility (although he is likely to get blamed anyway).

David.
No man is perfect every time he does something.  Therefore not everything man creates is perfect.

So far every boat design is experiential in my opinion no matter who designed it.

Many years ago the old metal Jon boats had 90 degree transoms. Under power mine never planed out flat with a 6 hp.

On day I realized if the transom were angled out then the prop angle would make the boat ride flat. So
I designed my Almost Jon Boat.

It's a great boat. Now ask me. .Is there anything about it I'd change if I built another one?.

Maybe, but not much.

My Skiff, a great boat, would I tweak the design next time. Yep, a tiny bit of rocker. But, it's still a good boat.

If the truth be known many designers realize their designs could be improved upon.

If someone is selling plans they may be reluctant to admit a slight design flaw.

If not a flaw, maybe an improvement.

Designers like me that aren't selling plans are more apt to say, if you change this it may make your boat performance better.

Some sellers may do that too. I don't Know,  but I am aware of how money can inhibit some people.

Good luck.
Chiefredelk



On Oct 21, 2017 11:19, "Charles RossLeighpilot@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I guess if your Old Shoe wasn't built to plan, you're in experimental territory. Good luck with the new rudder. It sounds like you've got a handle on the issues and some good ideas to fix them..

Leigh Ross




On Oct 21, 2017, at 20:10, 'John Trussell'jtrussell2@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

There is often a difference between “as drawn” and “as built”. I have no idea what the builder of the aluminum Old Shoe built. “As drawn” shows the keel about 1 ½ inches thick for its entire length, terminating in a flat surface. Slightly behind the end of the keel, there is a rudder consisting of a 1 ½ “ dowel  (rudder post) with flattened sides to accommodate ¼’ rudder sides. The sides are angled to meet at the aft end of the rudder. At the speeds involved, I doubt that there is a great deal of turbulence in this arrangement…

JohnT

From:bolger@yahoogroups..com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Friday, October 20, 2017 4:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium Oldshoe...

Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely horrendous turbulence.

The workarounds I can see to this are:

a) Try using parallel rudders (one each corner of the keel) to approximately original size. This won't solve the turbulence between the rudders, but should direct it somewhat and noticeably improve the direction of the flow of water as it runs past the sides of the keel an then the rudder. Those rudders could have endplates on the bottom, but my tendency would be not to overdo it on the inside edges (i.e. in the space between the rudders) as I reckon the turbulence in that area will still be pretty brutal. However, the parallel rudders will serve to effectively direct whatever flows through in approximately the right direction (and possibly also allow space for the outboard to clear properly in reverse - although this hasn't been a problem for me since I simply use the outboard trimmed up 2 stops).

b) Use a solid rudder, approximately the fore/aft and vertical dimensions as originally designed, but wedge shaped when viewed from above, so the width at the rudder post is similar to the width of the keel. You will need some sort of rubberoid flap or blocking to reduce turbulence around the rudder post (due to its disproportional size) and it would almost certainly also benefit from a bottom plate.  The rudder only swings around 45° each side, so you don't (necessarily) need to use a 7" diameter rudder post (and the 3.5" gaps that would imply) although you will still need to allow clearance. You could make make the rudder body free flooding/draining, using relatively small flood holes to avoid it floating up.

c) Use parallel rudders clear of the sides of the box keel so they work in the flow of the water both sides of the keel. This has the advantage of clearing the turbulence at the aft end of the box keel but leaves unprotected rudders (and the question of how/where to mount them...

My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?

David

I guess if your Old Shoe wasn't built to plan, you're in experimental territory. Good luck with the new rudder. It sounds like you've got a handle on the issues and some good ideas to fix them.. 

Leigh Ross

484-464-1575 (C)



On Oct 21, 2017, at 20:10, 'John Trussell'jtrussell2@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

There is often a difference between “as drawn” and “as built”. I have no idea what the builder of the aluminum Old Shoe built. “As drawn” shows the keel about 1 ½ inches thick for its entire length, terminating in a flat surface. Slightly behind the end of the keel, there is a rudder consisting of a 1 ½ “ dowel  (rudder post) with flattened sides to accommodate ¼’ rudder sides. The sides are angled to meet at the aft end of the rudder. At the speeds involved, I doubt that there is a great deal of turbulence in this arrangement…

 

JohnT

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups..com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Friday, October 20, 2017 4:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 

 

I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium Oldshoe...

Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely horrendous turbulence.

The workarounds I can see to this are:

a) Try using parallel rudders (one each corner of the keel) to approximately original size. This won't solve the turbulence between the rudders, but should direct it somewhat and noticeably improve the direction of the flow of water as it runs past the sides of the keel an then the rudder. Those rudders could have endplates on the bottom, but my tendency would be not to overdo it on the inside edges (i.e. in the space between the rudders) as I reckon the turbulence in that area will still be pretty brutal. However, the parallel rudders will serve to effectively direct whatever flows through in approximately the right direction (and possibly also allow space for the outboard to clear properly in reverse - although this hasn't been a problem for me since I simply use the outboard trimmed up 2 stops).

b) Use a solid rudder, approximately the fore/aft and vertical dimensions as originally designed, but wedge shaped when viewed from above, so the width at the rudder post is similar to the width of the keel. You will need some sort of rubberoid flap or blocking to reduce turbulence around the rudder post (due to its disproportional size) and it would almost certainly also benefit from a bottom plate.  The rudder only swings around 45° each side, so you don't (necessarily) need to use a 7" diameter rudder post (and the 3.5" gaps that would imply) although you will still need to allow clearance. You could make make the rudder body free flooding/draining, using relatively small flood holes to avoid it floating up.

c) Use parallel rudders clear of the sides of the box keel so they work in the flow of the water both sides of the keel. This has the advantage of clearing the turbulence at the aft end of the box keel but leaves unprotected rudders (and the question of how/where to mount them...

My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?

David

End plates can be off one side only (like aircraft have) and work fine so your idea of twin rudders should do fine.

Whack-boing! It's dub!
thecheappages dot com
====================

There is often a difference between “as drawn” and “as built”. I have no idea what the builder of the aluminum Old Shoe built. “As drawn” shows the keel about 1 ½ inches thick for its entire length, terminating in a flat surface. Slightly behind the end of the keel, there is a rudder consisting of a 1 ½ “ dowel  (rudder post) with flattened sides to accommodate ¼’ rudder sides. The sides are angled to meet at the aft end of the rudder. At the speeds involved, I doubt that there is a great deal of turbulence in this arrangement…

 

JohnT

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Friday, October 20, 2017 4:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 

 

I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium Oldshoe...

Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely horrendous turbulence.

The workarounds I can see to this are:

a) Try using parallel rudders (one each corner of the keel) to approximately original size. This won't solve the turbulence between the rudders, but should direct it somewhat and noticeably improve the direction of the flow of water as it runs past the sides of the keel an then the rudder. Those rudders could have endplates on the bottom, but my tendency would be not to overdo it on the inside edges (i.e. in the space between the rudders) as I reckon the turbulence in that area will still be pretty brutal. However, the parallel rudders will serve to effectively direct whatever flows through in approximately the right direction (and possibly also allow space for the outboard to clear properly in reverse - although this hasn't been a problem for me since I simply use the outboard trimmed up 2 stops).

b) Use a solid rudder, approximately the fore/aft and vertical dimensions as originally designed, but wedge shaped when viewed from above, so the width at the rudder post is similar to the width of the keel. You will need some sort of rubberoid flap or blocking to reduce turbulence around the rudder post (due to its disproportional size) and it would almost certainly also benefit from a bottom plate.  The rudder only swings around 45° each side, so you don't (necessarily) need to use a 7" diameter rudder post (and the 3.5" gaps that would imply) although you will still need to allow clearance. You could make make the rudder body free flooding/draining, using relatively small flood holes to avoid it floating up.

c) Use parallel rudders clear of the sides of the box keel so they work in the flow of the water both sides of the keel. This has the advantage of clearing the turbulence at the aft end of the box keel but leaves unprotected rudders (and the question of how/where to mount them...

My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?

David

Have you sail d the boat with it in the " as designed " configuration?  First check if you actually have a problem. Bolger was a very talented designer. 

Leigh Ross

484-464-1575 (C)



On Oct 20, 2017, at 10:42,dir_cobb@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium Oldshoe...

Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely horrendous turbulence.

The workarounds I can see to this are:

a) Try using parallel rudders (one each corner of the keel) to approximately original size. This won't solve the turbulence between the rudders, but should direct it somewhat and noticeably improve the direction of the flow of water as it runs past the sides of the keel an then the rudder. Those rudders could have endplates on the bottom, but my tendency would be not to overdo it on the inside edges (i.e. in the space between the rudders) as I reckon the turbulence in that area will still be pretty brutal. However, the parallel rudders will serve to effectively direct whatever flows through in approximately the right direction (and possibly also allow space for the outboard to clear properly in reverse - although this hasn't been a problem for me since I simply use the outboard trimmed up 2 stops).

b) Use a solid rudder, approximately the fore/aft and vertical dimensions as originally designed, but wedge shaped when viewed from above, so the width at the rudder post is similar to the width of the keel. You will need some sort of rubberoid flap or blocking to reduce turbulence around the rudder post (due to its disproportional size) and it would almost certainly also benefit from a bottom plate.  The rudder only swings around 45° each side, so you don't (necessarily) need to use a 7" diameter rudder post (and the 3.5" gaps that would imply) although you will still need to allow clearance. You could make make the rudder body free flooding/draining, using relatively small flood holes to avoid it floating up.

c) Use parallel rudders clear of the sides of the box keel so they work in the flow of the water both sides of the keel. This has the advantage of clearing the turbulence at the aft end of the box keel but leaves unprotected rudders (and the question of how/where to mount them....

My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?

David


On Oct 20, 2017, at 5:44 PM, John Kohnenjhkohnen@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Why do so many builders think they know better than the designer whose plans they bought... <sigh>

EXACTLY!  Well said, John.

I hope the box keel is well faired into pointy ends fore and aft. It'd be a horrendous drag otherwise! If the keel narrows gradually to a sterpost it shouldn't adversely affect the rudder. It'd be like a Seabright skiff.

I don't understand why anyone wouldn't build the rudder as designed, with an endplate. Bolger used shallow rudders with endplates successfully on several designs, and explained why he did so. <shrug> Years ago I met a Chebacco builder who was suspicious of the rudder endplate Bolger drew, but wasn't ready to ignore the designer altogether -- so he put sideplates about halfway up the rudder! ;o) Why do so many builders think they know better than the designer whose plans they bought... <sigh>



On October 20, 2017 1:42:00 PM PDT, David wrote:
>I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium
>Oldshoe...
>
>Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder
>currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed
>centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely
>horrendous turbulence.
> ...


>My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?
>
>David

--
John <jkohnen@...>
A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought. (Lord Peter Wimsey)
Sent from some sort of mobile device.
I've been giving some more thought to the rudder of the aluminium Oldshoe...

Although I haven't found a/the pictures to see the keel and rudder currently on the boat, it occurred to me that if the rudder is indeed centred behind a 7" wide keel box, it must be working in absolutely horrendous turbulence.

The workarounds I can see to this are:

a) Try using parallel rudders (one each corner of the keel) to approximately original size. This won't solve the turbulence between the rudders, but should direct it somewhat and noticeably improve the direction of the flow of water as it runs past the sides of the keel an then the rudder. Those rudders could have endplates on the bottom, but my tendency would be not to overdo it on the inside edges (i.e. in the space between the rudders) as I reckon the turbulence in that area will still be pretty brutal. However, the parallel rudders will serve to effectively direct whatever flows through in approximately the right direction (and possibly also allow space for the outboard to clear properly in reverse - although this hasn't been a problem for me since I simply use the outboard trimmed up 2 stops).

b) Use a solid rudder, approximately the fore/aft and vertical dimensions as originally designed, but wedge shaped when viewed from above, so the width at the rudder post is similar to the width of the keel. You will need some sort of rubberoid flap or blocking to reduce turbulence around the rudder post (due to its disproportional size) and it would almost certainly also benefit from a bottom plate.  The rudder only swings around 45° each side, so you don't (necessarily) need to use a 7" diameter rudder post (and the 3.5" gaps that would imply) although you will still need to allow clearance. You could make make the rudder body free flooding/draining, using relatively small flood holes to avoid it floating up.

c) Use parallel rudders clear of the sides of the box keel so they work in the flow of the water both sides of the keel. This has the advantage of clearing the turbulence at the aft end of the box keel but leaves unprotected rudders (and the question of how/where to mount them...

My inclination would be to try (a) first. Any thoughts anyone?

David
Hi all

Long time no see... I have somewhat neglected my Oldshoe as I make slow progress building Seabird 86...

Re my experience with Oldshoe:

- I love the boat, it developed my sons love for sailing and enabled me to do likewise (and develop my relationship with my son, which is more important).
- I built the boat with the original rudder (without endplate) which sailed quite well and later added an endplate (which improved steering).

Oldshoe is essentially an 8 ft full keel boat with draining compartments each end. You cannot (and should not) expect fast tacking and high pointing from her (she isn´t that sort of boat). If you try and point too high, she will look the way you tell her but make much leeway and little progress.

However, if you sail her the way she is intended, she will take you substantial distances quite safely and in reasonable comfort under almost any conditions.

We have sailed her on lakes and large bays on the Pacific (in Chile where I live). She will take 3 adults happily in relatively calm conditions and give two adults a lively run for their money with more wind. She doesn't like motorboat chop or very short waves.

One of the things I really enjoy is steering and tacking her without touching sails or tiller (rudder). She is extremely sensitive to weight placement. If you fix the rudder in the central position and trim the sails to sail relatively close hauled, simply moving the crew/skippers weight around will make significant changes to the heading. Once you learn how, it is quite simple to tack her by moving your weight to leeward, then forward (towards the bow) still to leeward or center (until she goes through the wind) and then you move your weight back towards the stern.

As with all vertical sided sharpies (Micro, AS29, AS 39, etc) the water line increases as the boat heels. We find she sails best heeled 10-15°. In winds up to about 10kn we bias crew weight to leeward (producing heel by crew weight). Once there is enough wind to heel the boat naturally, you move weight to windward to keep the angle of heel to windward around 10 or 15°. If you get to the stage that all weight is on the windward seat, and you're still heeling too far, point further into the wind or slacken the mainsheet a little... She'll give you plenty of warning before she lets you down...  

I honestly think anyone who finds the original rudder (certainly with the added bottom plate) is inadequate, is doing something seriously wrong or has completely unrealistic expectations...

I am convinced that most steering related frustration is due to misunderstanding of weight placement and/or sail trim.  It was fascinating to discover and understand the effect of changing the hull shape in the water (I got the concept reading LF Herreshof's "The compleat cruiser" chapter on dinghy sailing). Oldshoe enables you to understand (and watch it) in practice. I found it fascinating to fix a compass to the cubby box and then watch the effect on the heading of moving my weight about. Moving a couple of inches fore and aft makes an enormous difference... Changing sides does too.

Rather than making modifications I sincerely suggest you go back to the original rudder design and learn to sail her as Phil Bolger intended. She works great as designed. If I want to sail fast (and wet) like everybody else, I sail a Laser or Sunfish.  Oldshoe is slow and relaxed (4.5 kt max)... And I very infrequently get wet or cold.  When I go offshore, I sail in much bigger boats, but the lessons learned in the Oldshoe are never forgotten. It's astonishing how much more you can learn from a small boat like Oldshoe than from a yacht many times larger and heavier, although the tricks learned on the small boat work just as well for the larger one. The beauty of Oldshoe is that she teaches like a dinghy but takes care of you like a much bigger boat. 

Go sailing, enjoy and modify only if you feel you have to. (I closed the step in the bow of my Oldshoe, the rest is about as designed...)

David
Santiago, Chile
   
A rudder can go on the aft corner/off center. My adapted for sail, fairly horrible Coleman canoe had a rudder off one side of the stern on a wooden bracket assembly because Gideon's and pointless (no, spellcheck, that is gudgeons and pintles) were not practical on a plastic molding.

Whack-boing! It's dub!
thecheappages dot com
====================

Yowzah! That monster rudder gives a whole new meaning to "barn door."
;o) That's so big it will interfere with the outboard mounted on the
transom. A quick look at my Oldshoe reminded me that there's no room to
make the rudder any longer (fore 'n' aft) without hitting the outboard.
As is, I can't rotate the motor all the way around for reverse.

Here are a couple of photos showing Pearl's rudder endplate. It's a tad
over 9" wide at the widest point, and extends 3" aft of the rudder
blade's trailing edge:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jkohnen/36988867824/in/album-72157647974549548/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jkohnen/36988868134/in/album-72157647974549548/

On 10/13/2017 6:03 AM, Buddy wrote:
> ...
> On my new to me Old Shoe, it looks like the original keel is about 1.5
> ft by 1.5 feet. Which was probably woefully undersized because it is
> also sitting behind a fixed keel that is 7 inches wide. So what has been
> bolted to that is an aluminum plate that ends up making the rudder more
> like 3ft long by 1.5 ft tall. And if I need to even more rudder
> authority I can just bolt on another plate that makes the rudder as long
> as I need it to be....
>
> Which brings up a few questions. What is it about a horizontal bottom
> plate that makes the rudder more effective?  And what kind of dimensions
> are we talking about here? Easy enough to add to this particular rig.
> ...
--
--
John (jkohnen@...)
When I was young, I admired clever people. Now that I am old, I admire
kind people. (Abraham Joshua Heschel)

On end plates: As I understand the theory, when you put the tiller over, there is more water pressure on one side of the rudder and less pressure on the other side of the rudder. With a shallow rudder, some water tends to flow under the bottom of the rudder from the high pressure side to the low pressure side. This adds turbulence and reduces the effectiveness of the rudder. By putting a plate on the bottom of the rudder, the flow of water under the rudder is blocked (at least mostly) and the rudder becomes more effective. A quick review of my Old Shoe plans shows that the “plate” consists of strips about ¾” square attached to either side of the rudder. However, on his Bobcat/Tiny Cat boat, the end plate is much larger—perhaps 6 to 8 inches (total).

 

At one point, wings on the bottom of fin keels were all the rage (following their use on an America’s Cup boat). Due to difficulties with trailering, they seem to have gone out of style.

 

Have fun.

 

JohnT

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Friday, October 13, 2017 9:04 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Oldshoe

 

 

 

Thanks for the input guys.

 

On my new to me Old Shoe, it looks like the original keel is about 1.5 ft by 1.5 feet. Which was probably woefully undersized because it is also sitting behind a fixed keel that is 7 inches wide. So what has been bolted to that is an aluminum plate that ends up making the rudder more like 3ft long by 1.5 ft tall. And if I need to even more rudder authority I can just bolt on another plate that makes the rudder as long as I need it to be....

 

Which brings up a few questions. What is it about a horizontal bottom plate that makes the rudder more effective?  And what kind of dimensions are we talking about here? Easy enough to add to this particular rig.

 

And another question. I take it a rudder ALSO kind of acts like the part of a keel as well. And it is my understanding that with a cat yawl rig you can use the setting of the two sails to (within some limits) to determine at what angle into the wind you sail. In which case a longer rudder helps not so much for steerage....but makes you have "more keel" which helps with trying to get "upwind".

 

thanks again for the input.

 

Buddy

-----Original Message-----
From: Coddadadata@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 13, 2017 5:46 am
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oldshoe

 

Oldshoe already has an end plate, or should. They do help, but the rudder is still too small.

Whack-boing! It's dub!

thecheappages dot com

====================

 


Thank you very much for that input (all you folks included!)

I really like the idea of swinging centerboard mounted on the keel. I think the main problem would be swinging centerboard would have to be fairly narrow as the keel is not particularly "high/tall" at the lowest point of the hull itself. But it sure would be nice given that it would not intrude into the hull space nor mess up the out hull "looks". But would be complicated and I can see something breaking where the only solution is having to get in/under the water to fix it...be no dam fun at all in cooler months (I hate cold water...ie less than about 80 degrees...more than Superman hates kryptonite mayo on his sandwiches).

Now as for as vertical raise/drop center keel....IFFF I can place said keel just outside of the "standing area" of the cockpit and place it in the center of the forward bench/sitting area...that would be great....not in the way in any significant sense...but again, I am not clear at all on how the fore/aft placement of a keel in relation to the sails (and the hull as well I suppose) affects handling/performance.

I think bilge keels are out...complicated curves/angles...and probably putting a fair number of holes in the hull...and if done wrong probably inducing a fair bit of hull drag as well.

A wing keel is very interesting. Doesn't mess up the looks...doesn't increase the draft...doesn't intrude into the cockpit..easy to mount...only a few holes in the bottom of the 7 inch wide keel...can even adjust fore/aft a bit if needed. But I do wonder how effective such a keel would be on such a crude keel. Keep in mind this keel has a flat bottom and is seven inches wide (with a flat bottom up curving front). The water flowing along the keel after encountering that front probably isn't particularly laminar/well behaved compared to a normal keel.

Lee boards would probably be the best bet. Not thrilled about how it would make the boat look. Would also be very easy to temporarily just bolt some crudish plywood ones on the side for testing. It that works, get fancy with plywood and casing for raising/lowering. One downside, at first glance it looks like the only place that really makes sense to mount them on the sides near the center of the boat (that is where the sides are parallel are to centerline). Again, this location might be an issue in regards to fore/aft optimum location for a keel (s).

Thanks for the input folks.

Plenty to think about.

Buddy





-----Original Message-----
From: John Kohnen jhkohnen@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 12, 2017 8:30 pm
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
For what I use my Oldshoe for, daysailing on the local reservoir, I like
it fine as is. It doesn't go to windward very well, but if I'm in a
hurry to get there she's well set up as a motorboat, with the motor
conveniently in reach on on the transom. A 2 hp. Honda provides ample push.

I haven't noticed any issues with the rudder during jibes. <shrug> The
endplate works good. At slow speeds turning is leisurely because of the
long keel, but making use of the mizzen helps. My Oldshoe, Pearl, comes
about briskly when there's a breeze, especially if I use the sails to
help: Sheet in the mizzen and let go the mainsheet as you put the helm
down to bring her up into the wind, then as the bow goes through the eye
of the wind let go the mizzen sheet and haul in the mainsheet to fall
off more quickly, then sheet in the mizzen sheet to bring her up to the
wind as you gather way on the new tack. Sounds more complicated than it
really is. <g>

If I was gonna enlarge the rudder I'd increase its fore-and-aft
dimension, not depth. Having the rudder the same depth as the keel is
real nice for sliding through weeds, and would be nice for not picking
up crab pot lines down at the Coast.

I think the only sensible way to add a centerboard to an Oldshoe would
be to make a case right alongside the keel, entirely below the boat,
with the board pennant led to a pipe at the aft cockpit bulkhead. You
don't want to spoil the legroom in the footwell. But I wouldn't want the
complication. Craig's idea to use bilge keels sounds a lot better, and I
might even try that someday...

Whatever you do, Oldshoe isn't gonna be a "performance" boat. <g> It's a
real good, comfortable old fogey boat. I love mine. :o)

On 10/12/2017 6:51 AM, COD wrote:
>
>
> The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe
> your builder went for a bigger rudder.
> ...
> The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze.
> Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had
> to get home.
> ...
> As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here
> could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the
> bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That
> would do it. > ...

--
John (jkohnen@...)
One cat just leads to another. (Ernest Hemingway)



Thanks for the input.

Not terribly familiar with wing keels.

Might be an interesting solution here....

Buddy


-----Original Message-----
From: 'wordzenpix .' wordzenpix@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 12, 2017 8:37 pm
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 
They DO work very well like wing keels that allow a shallow draft with efficiency.

On Oct 12, 2017 1:00 PM, "Charles RossLeighpilot@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Putting and end plate on the rudder will make it much more effective and is easier than building an entire new rudder. I saw a Martha Jane with that modification and was told it worked very well. Try that first. 

Regards 

Leigh Ross




On Oct 12, 2017, at 14:51,dadadata@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe your builder went for a bigger rudder.

(I'd probably end up adding a "barn door" style if I had an Oldshoe). See classic catboat design.

The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze. Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had to get home.

I remember an especially exciting time in the lower Chester River in Maryland - notoriously rough because the tide runs out around a wide 180 degree turn that happens to face a long stretch of open water - any north, northwest, or west wind manages to blow into your face there.

As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That would do it.

No design is perfect, alas.

Thanks for the input guys.

On my new to me Old Shoe, it looks like the original keel is about 1.5 ft by 1.5 feet. Which was probably woefully undersized because it is also sitting behind a fixed keel that is 7 inches wide. So what has been bolted to that is an aluminum plate that ends up making the rudder more like 3ft long by 1.5 ft tall. And if I need to even more rudder authority I can just bolt on another plate that makes the rudder as long as I need it to be....

Which brings up a few questions. What is it about a horizontal bottom plate that makes the rudder more effective?  And what kind of dimensions are we talking about here? Easy enough to add to this particular rig.

And another question. I take it a rudder ALSO kind of acts like the part of a keel as well. And it is my understanding that with a cat yawl rig you can use the setting of the two sails to (within some limits) to determine at what angle into the wind you sail. In which case a longer rudder helps not so much for steerage....but makes you have "more keel" which helps with trying to get "upwind".

thanks again for the input.

Buddy


-----Original Message-----
From: Cod dadadata@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 13, 2017 5:46 am
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oldshoe

 
Oldshoe already has an end plate, or should. They do help, but the rudder is still too small.

Whack-boing! It's dub!
thecheappages dot com
====================

Oldshoe already has an end plate, or should. They do help, but the rudder is still too small.

Whack-boing! It's dub!
thecheappages dot com
====================

For what I use my Oldshoe for, daysailing on the local reservoir, I like
it fine as is. It doesn't go to windward very well, but if I'm in a
hurry to get there she's well set up as a motorboat, with the motor
conveniently in reach on on the transom. A 2 hp. Honda provides ample push.

I haven't noticed any issues with the rudder during jibes. <shrug> The
endplate works good. At slow speeds turning is leisurely because of the
long keel, but making use of the mizzen helps. My Oldshoe, Pearl, comes
about briskly when there's a breeze, especially if I use the sails to
help: Sheet in the mizzen and let go the mainsheet as you put the helm
down to bring her up into the wind, then as the bow goes through the eye
of the wind let go the mizzen sheet and haul in the mainsheet to fall
off more quickly, then sheet in the mizzen sheet to bring her up to the
wind as you gather way on the new tack. Sounds more complicated than it
really is. <g>

If I was gonna enlarge the rudder I'd increase its fore-and-aft
dimension, not depth. Having the rudder the same depth as the keel is
real nice for sliding through weeds, and would be nice for not picking
up crab pot lines down at the Coast.

I think the only sensible way to add a centerboard to an Oldshoe would
be to make a case right alongside the keel, entirely below the boat,
with the board pennant led to a pipe at the aft cockpit bulkhead. You
don't want to spoil the legroom in the footwell. But I wouldn't want the
complication. Craig's idea to use bilge keels sounds a lot better, and I
might even try that someday...

Whatever you do, Oldshoe isn't gonna be a "performance" boat. <g> It's a
real good, comfortable old fogey boat. I love mine. :o)

On 10/12/2017 6:51 AM, COD wrote:
>
>
> The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe
> your builder went for a bigger rudder.
> ...
> The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze.
> Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had
> to get home.
> ...
> As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here
> could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the
> bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That
> would do it. > ...

--
John (jkohnen@...)
One cat just leads to another. (Ernest Hemingway)
They DO work very well like wing keels that allow a shallow draft with efficiency.

On Oct 12, 2017 1:00 PM, "Charles RossLeighpilot@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Putting and end plate on the rudder will make it much more effective and is easier than building an entire new rudder. I saw a Martha Jane with that modification and was told it worked very well. Try that first.


On Oct 12, 2017, at 14:51,dadadata@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe your builder went for a bigger rudder.

(I'd probably end up adding a "barn door" style if I had an Oldshoe). See classic catboat design.

The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze. Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had to get home.

I remember an especially exciting time in the lower Chester River in Maryland - notoriously rough because the tide runs out around a wide 180 degree turn that happens to face a long stretch of open water - any north, northwest, or west wind manages to blow into your face there.

As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That would do it.

No design is perfect, alas.

Putting and end plate on the rudder will make it much more effective and is easier than building an entire new rudder. I saw a Martha Jane with that modification and was told it worked very well. Try that first. 

Regards 

Leigh Ross

484-464-1575 (C)



On Oct 12, 2017, at 14:51,dadadata@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe your builder went for a bigger rudder.

(I'd probably end up adding a "barn door" style if I had an Oldshoe). See classic catboat design.

The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze. Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had to get home.

I remember an especially exciting time in the lower Chester River in Maryland - notoriously rough because the tide runs out around a wide 180 degree turn that happens to face a long stretch of open water - any north, northwest, or west wind manages to blow into your face there.

As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That would do it.

No design is perfect, alas.


For centerboard placement/sizing, consider “going to the source” and asking Susanne Altenburger of Phil Bolger & friends, to take this on as a small consult… IF she has time….  25 years ago, I got a great sketch from Phil on how to change my Black Skimmer mast to a pivoting-tabernacle raising system; his geometry -sketch was both elegant (worth framing) AND “spot-on”, cost me less than a hundred bucks, worth every penny

 

Wayne Gilham

Current owner, Bernie Wolfard’s  (original, first-build) “Idaho” power-sharpie

Prior owner, a downeast-built “Black Skimmer” 25’ leeboard sharpie cat-yawl

Tacoma, WA

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Thursday, October 12, 2017 6:51 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Oldshoe

 

 

The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe your builder went for a bigger rudder.

(I'd probably end up adding a "barn door" style if I had an Oldshoe). See classic catboat design.

The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze. Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had to get home.

I remember an especially exciting time in the lower Chester River in Maryland - notoriously rough because the tide runs out around a wide 180 degree turn that happens to face a long stretch of open water - any north, northwest, or west wind manages to blow into your face there.

As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That would do it.

No design is perfect, alas.

The rudder should be shaped like an inverted T under the stern. Maybe your builder went for a bigger rudder.

(I'd probably end up adding a "barn door" style if I had an Oldshoe). See classic catboat design.

The Oldshoe makes a lot of leeway upwind or reaching in a good breeze. Not enough keel. John H used to rely on his small outboard when he had to get home.

I remember an especially exciting time in the lower Chester River in Maryland - notoriously rough because the tide runs out around a wide 180 degree turn that happens to face a long stretch of open water - any north, northwest, or west wind manages to blow into your face there.

As far as the centerboard, I really don't know, but maybe someone here could chime in. An alternative could be a pair of bilge keels along the bottom, since the Oldshoe doesn't really sit upright when beached. That would do it.

No design is perfect, alas.

Thanks for the comments.

The rudder is already a fair bit oversized. And since it is just a thick metal aluminum plate....it would be plenty easy to make it as big as neccessary.

I've already been toying with the idea of adding a centerboard. Construction wise it is something I'd feel fairly comfortable doing.

My main question regarding that would be: How critical would placement be as far as in the fore/ aft direction? And what kind of dimensions are we talking about? Maybe 1 foot wide and 3 feet long?

I'll have to see how well it works upwind. I don't expect great performance upwind nor need it....but on the other hand if it is an absolute dog when it comes to going upwind that is going to be a problem.

Thanks for the input

take care

Buddy


-----Original Message-----
From: Cod dadadata@... [bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 12, 2017 6:25 am
Subject: [bolger] Oldshoe

 

The Oldshoe is great fun.

A couple comments. In the right conditions, you will get sheets of spray up the sides and bow when waves hit them. Put some outwales on the sides to knock the spray down.

A push-pull tiller or extension is really helpful so you can sit midships.

In a jibe, the rudder isn't powerful enough to overcome the sail's tendency to rotate the boat. You won't capsize but you will have an exciting moment. I'd advise a larger rudder, somehow.

John Harris says the boat really should have a centerboard ( or bilge boards ). Or try leeboards.
The Oldshoe is great fun.

A couple comments. In the right conditions, you will get sheets of spray up the sides and bow when waves hit them. Put some outwales on the sides to knock the spray down.

A push-pull tiller or extension is really helpful so you can sit midships.

In a jibe, the rudder isn't powerful enough to overcome the sail's tendency to rotate the boat. You won't capsize but you will have an exciting moment. I'd advise a larger rudder, somehow.

John Harris says the boat really should have a centerboard ( or bilge boards ). Or try leeboards.
David, congratulations on the Oldshoe build.  How exciting!

On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 4:36 AM,<dir_cobb@...>wrote:

David
Santiago, Chile

_
Hi

I took 6 months from receiving the plans to launching my Oldshoe (which contrasts greatly with the time Dennis spent). I spent most evenings and a number of weekends on the project, but it was nowhere near full time. It was my first build and I made a number of "first timer" mistakes. I also worried too much and did too little. For example: I spent about a week building the rudder. When it broke after 5 years use I built a new one in one evening taking about 4 hours.
As with most things wooden boatbuilding, it all depends on the finish you are aiming for. I am glad I spent 6 months on her, as she has taught most of my family to sail and given everybody (young and old) a fun time.
She is stable enough for people with restricted mobility to go sailing and also for small children to learn on. She is not fast but she is quite safe.
My opinion is that Oldshoe is a great little boat. You get a lot from her at a relatively low cost. She only takes 8 sheets of ply. I would not recommend spending an enormous amount of time making her a gold plater, simply because she draws enough attention with the two masts on 12' as it is and her shape is too radical for most people to really be more than curious. I can't imagine anyone buying an Oldshoe for much more than the material cost, so your decision on finish is basically up to what you want to do.
My view on home built wooden boats is that I build boats to be used. I derive much pleasure from seeing my kids, parents and in-laws enjoying the fruit of my labour. I have told my son on many occasions that I would rather he used the boat and sank it than that it sat under a cover waiting for me, or worse still, in a glass case as a memorial to my boatbuilding skills (or lack thereof).
My worst nightmare was the lead keel. It wasn't just the foundry work but actually sourcing the lead took a lot more (time and money) than I was bargaining for.
I feel that 6 months including masts, polytarp sails and basic (house)paint job is not an unreasonable amount of time. I worked outside in winter (under a shelter). The worst bit of this was getting the epoxy to cure. As with all boatbuilding projects, clamps are your best friend.
David
Santiago, Chile
I didn't build my Oldshoe. Here's the builder's Web page, to give you some
idea of what's involved:

http://www.solopublications.com/saillanc.html

Oldshoe's shape is simple, but there are some time-consuming complications
in the build.

On Fri, 04 Apr 2014 18:15:04 -0700, gurnemanz wrote:

> How tough was she to build? Do you recall the time investment?

--
John (jkohnen@...)
A paranoid is a man who knows a little of what's going on. (William
Burroughs)
How tough was she to build? Do you recall the time investment?
Oldshoe is like the cockpit of a big cruiser without the big cruiser.

I too have genuinely enjoyed my Oldshoe.

The kids have learned to sail in her. I have taken my Father in law (who can hardly walk) as well as very small kids sailing with never significant worry or risk. Unless you really intentionally abuse her, she takes care of her crew.
David

Hi Joe,

She went to the Eugene area of Oregon to a good home where she will be well taken care of and used. I am certain to see her down the road. On to my next build, 15ft Footloose skiff.

Regards,

Dennis

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe T" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
>
> Dennis, can you say where she went? Someone in that area might want to keep a lookout for her. I know I would like to see her if she is in my area, Monterrey Bay.
>
> Joe T
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dennislancaster789" <dennislancaster789@> wrote:
> >
> > Just a heads up that my Oldshoe sold today... happy and sad at the same time, but she went to a good home.
> >
> > Fairwinds,
> >
> > Dennis Lancaster
> > Bellingham, WA
> >
>
Dennis, can you say where she went? Someone in that area might want to keep a lookout for her. I know I would like to see her if she is in my area, Monterrey Bay.

Joe T

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dennislancaster789" <dennislancaster789@...> wrote:
>
> Just a heads up that my Oldshoe sold today... happy and sad at the same time, but she went to a good home.
>
> Fairwinds,
>
> Dennis Lancaster
> Bellingham, WA
>
Just a heads up that my Oldshoe sold today... happy and sad at the same time, but she went to a good home.

Fairwinds,

Dennis Lancaster
Bellingham, WA
Hi Dennis,

check out the BolgerCartoons Oldshoe sailboat file at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/

There are some pics at BolgerOldshoe group too, and you might choose
to search through the archived posts right here, there are some
threads on Oldshoe, but not a lot. Use the small box at the list top.
Just enter Oldshoe.

Cheers
Graeme

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Tribulato" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
>Lots of good photos and files.
>> Dennis
Dennis

Additional photos are in the overflow groups listed on the Boger group
home page. Join each separately. Lots of good photos and files.

Joe T

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "col8.7own" <col8.7own@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Tribulato" <scsbmsjoe@> wrote:
> >Tks Joe, what is bolger6? I thought I was logged into the bolger
> group.
>
> Dennis
> > Dennis
> >
> > See photos in Bolger 6 here:
> >http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger6/photos/browse/efcb
> >
> > The green one I built in 1988. Sold last summer to Rosalie in
> Seattle.
> > Google will get you a few good links.
> >
> > Joe T
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Tribulato" <scsbmsjoe@...> wrote:
>Tks Joe, what is bolger6? I thought I was logged into the bolger
group.

Dennis
> Dennis
>
> See photos in Bolger 6 here:
>http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger6/photos/browse/efcb
>
> The green one I built in 1988. Sold last summer to Rosalie in
Seattle.
> Google will get you a few good links.
>
> Joe T
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "col8.7own" <col8.7own@> wrote:
> >
> > Good evening folks,
> >
> > I'm new to this list and am seeking information about Bolger's
Oldshoe
> > day sailor. I am down sizing from my Columbia 8.7 and am
seeking a
> > easy to single-hand, day sailor to carry me into my retirement.
> > I'm finding it difficult to get very much information on this
boat.
> > There is more on the Micro (which I find that I like just as
well),
> > but the Oldshoe is a bit of mystery.
> > Can anyone who has built one of these boats tell me about the
build
> > and the boat?
> > Thanking you in advance.
> > Best regards and fairwinds,
> >
> > Dennis
> > Bellingham, Washington
> >
>
Dennis

See photos in Bolger 6 here:
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger6/photos/browse/efcb

The green one I built in 1988. Sold last summer to Rosalie in Seattle.
Google will get you a few good links.

Joe T

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "col8.7own" <col8.7own@...> wrote:
>
> Good evening folks,
>
> I'm new to this list and am seeking information about Bolger's Oldshoe
> day sailor. I am down sizing from my Columbia 8.7 and am seeking a
> easy to single-hand, day sailor to carry me into my retirement.
> I'm finding it difficult to get very much information on this boat.
> There is more on the Micro (which I find that I like just as well),
> but the Oldshoe is a bit of mystery.
> Can anyone who has built one of these boats tell me about the build
> and the boat?
> Thanking you in advance.
> Best regards and fairwinds,
>
> Dennis
> Bellingham, Washington
>
Good evening folks,

I'm new to this list and am seeking information about Bolger's Oldshoe
day sailor. I am down sizing from my Columbia 8.7 and am seeking a
easy to single-hand, day sailor to carry me into my retirement.

I'm finding it difficult to get very much information on this boat.
There is more on the Micro (which I find that I like just as well),
but the Oldshoe is a bit of mystery.

Can anyone who has built one of these boats tell me about the build
and the boat?

Thanking you in advance.

Best regards and fairwinds,

Dennis
Bellingham, Washington
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bigboa44" <brosen1953@o...> wrote:

Barry,
There is/was a Yahoo group specific to the OLDSHOE that may be worth
checking out if it does indeed still exists.
Beyond that,I know nothing about the OLDSHOE other then to suggest a
MICRO,Queen of the fleet, for your sailing area.You won't miss not
having a comfortable cabin to take your pleasures in :-)

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,builder and ex-owner of the Micro LESTAT,whose eyes
sometimes leak when looking over"old" pictures of her and wonder if
she is being good to her new owner,way out there in the middle of
Canada..............






> I am thinking about building an oldshoe for use on Long Island Sound
> and I was wondering if anyone could provide information on the
> following:
>
> 1. How well does the boat sail in light winds?
>
> 2. What is the approximate building costs?
>
> 3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself (e.g.,
> buying a keel, filling with other materials like concrete or lead
> shot, etc.)?
>
> I appreciate your help
> Thanks.
> Barry
>
On 10/12/05, Lipsey <saillips@...> wrote:
> Always wear a respirator rated for chemical fumes when melting lead!

Safety is important. I agree. I was just reading an MSDS for solder,
which contains molten lead, and it said that fumes are not an
issue under 900 degrees Fahrenheit. [Lead melts at about 650 deg].

see section "X." of:
http://www.imperialinc.com/msds0821230.shtml

Other safety issues to consider, [and IMO, more risky], is the risk
of eating lead or breathing dust. Wash your hands before sticking
your fingers in your mouth, and don't make lead dust.

Also, the lead casting can be real heavy, and smash your toes. etc..
Always wear a respirator rated for chemical fumes when melting lead!
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oldshoe


> 3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself
> Barry

Before you give up on building the boat 'per plans', with
a cast lead keel ballast; try melting some lead just
to see how easy it is to do.

For my Micro, I built a fire using BBQ charcoal
under a used steel 5 gallon paint can propped up
on some bricks. I then dipped the lead out using
a home made ladle [a can nailed to a stick],
and poured it into a mold. The shape wasn't
perfect, but the lead casting was trimmed
easily with my Skilsaw.

http://image08.webshots.com/8/0/6/44/121100644qadyRL_fs.jpg

I spent more time worrying about it than
actually doing it.


Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am not suggesting that you do this but if the melting is not an option
for you, it is dangerous but not much more than handling boiling water
(the temp. is much higher) I would think that with a good arm and the
pieces were not too large you could hammer it into the proper shape.
Lead is very soft if it does not have too much tin in it and will tend to
"weld" together with enough effort in a stout form. That will compact it
to virtually 100% and then could be epoxy-ed in place. I just made a
noun into a verb. Anything can be done with a pencil,,,, lead.

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 07:53:54 -0700 Bruce Hallman <bruce@...>
writes:
> 3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself
> Barry

Before you give up on building the boat 'per plans', with
a cast lead keel ballast; try melting some lead just
to see how easy it is to do.

For my Micro, I built a fire using BBQ charcoal
under a used steel 5 gallon paint can propped up
on some bricks. I then dipped the lead out using
a home made ladle [a can nailed to a stick],
and poured it into a mold. The shape wasn't
perfect, but the lead casting was trimmed
easily with my Skilsaw.

http://image08.webshots.com/8/0/6/44/121100644qadyRL_fs.jpg

I spent more time worrying about it than
actually doing it.


Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com





YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS

Visit your group "bolger" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself
> Barry

Before you give up on building the boat 'per plans', with
a cast lead keel ballast; try melting some lead just
to see how easy it is to do.

For my Micro, I built a fire using BBQ charcoal
under a used steel 5 gallon paint can propped up
on some bricks. I then dipped the lead out using
a home made ladle [a can nailed to a stick],
and poured it into a mold. The shape wasn't
perfect, but the lead casting was trimmed
easily with my Skilsaw.

http://image08.webshots.com/8/0/6/44/121100644qadyRL_fs.jpg

I spent more time worrying about it than
actually doing it.
Curiously, the latest issue of Messing About in Boats has a Bolger article
about oldshoe; sounds pretty good! He says it's a good performer in most
conditions.

I'm about to pour the lead on my Micro's keel; I was dreading that for a
long time but now that I've got things almost set up, it doesn't seem like
such a big deal - of course I haven't poured yet, waiting for this rain to
stop! - but everyone who does it says afterwards that it was no biggie. An
alternative that some have tried is to have it poured; Dave Jost had his
Micro keel poured at a commercial foundry and it wasn't that much more
expensive than procuring enough lead in his area and doing it himself. Ask
around and look in your phone book; there seem to be little outfits
scattered anywhere there's alot of boating activity (like Long Island...).
You'll still have to provide the mould though.

I happened to mention to a few friends that I was starting to collect lead
and in a couple weeks I had at least 500# of lead sitting on the ground in
front of my boat! It's out there to be had...

Paul L.

-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
bigboa44
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 10:38 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Oldshoe


I am thinking about building an oldshoe for use on Long Island Sound
and I was wondering if anyone could provide information on the
following:

1. How well does the boat sail in light winds?

2. What is the approximate building costs?

3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself (e.g.,
buying a keel, filling with other materials like concrete or lead
shot, etc.)?

I appreciate your help
Thanks.
Barry






Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
I am thinking about building an oldshoe for use on Long Island Sound
and I was wondering if anyone could provide information on the
following:

1. How well does the boat sail in light winds?

2. What is the approximate building costs?

3. Are there any alternatives to casting the lead keel myself (e.g.,
buying a keel, filling with other materials like concrete or lead
shot, etc.)?

I appreciate your help
Thanks.
Barry
Thanks for the help...

The Oldshoe seems to fir my bill too. I need a bost to take to Nags
Head, NC where it is shallow. But it get very windy at times and the
Oldshoe seem to be able take it. And it's will work with my 5hp
outboard.

Not sure as what to do about the lead yet. But the hint will come in
handy.

Just order my plans.

When my Icester iceboat is done it will be time to build Olsshoe.

Niels




--- Inbolger@egroups.com, KF4call@a... wrote:
> >I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience
with
> >this design?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Niels
> >
> Niels,
> There is a group for "Oldshoe builders, owners and
daydreamers" on the
> egroups system. There are about 40 members. Right now the group
is quiet,
> but my guess is that if you were to join and ask a few questions,
you might
> stir up some interest and generate some postings(even though it is
the
> holiday season)
> There are also a number of older writings in the "files"
section
> containing reviews of the design (and the finished boat) as well
as
> building tips. This would include some selections by very
knowledgable
> owners who write in a compelling and informative way. I'll be
happy to
> answer any specific questions you may have.
>
>
> I chose Oldshoe because of the apparent safety of the design.
Also, it
> seems suitable for camping/beach cruising for one or two. The
construction
> is plywood on frame. I am using exterior b-c pine for mine. The
design
> calls for a lead keel. Some of the group members have speculated
that the
> lead shape may be available from folks who build x-ray departments
for
> hospitals, thus circumventing the need to work with molten lead,
if that is
> an issue. Otherwise construction does not appear to be too
difficult and the
> design does not appear to call for any specialty tools. However, I
am still
> at a very early stage in the construction of mine.
> Best regards, Warren
Don't forget to check out the photos in the files!

http://www.egroups.com/files/Oldshoe/

Rick

> I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience with
> this design?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Niels
>I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience with
>this design?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Niels
>
Niels,
There is a group for "Oldshoe builders, owners and daydreamers" on the
egroups system. There are about 40 members. Right now the group is quiet,
but my guess is that if you were to join and ask a few questions, you might
stir up some interest and generate some postings(even though it is the
holiday season)
There are also a number of older writings in the "files" section
containing reviews of the design (and the finished boat) as well as
building tips. This would include some selections by very knowledgable
owners who write in a compelling and informative way. I'll be happy to
answer any specific questions you may have.


I chose Oldshoe because of the apparent safety of the design. Also, it
seems suitable for camping/beach cruising for one or two. The construction
is plywood on frame. I am using exterior b-c pine for mine. The design
calls for a lead keel. Some of the group members have speculated that the
lead shape may be available from folks who build x-ray departments for
hospitals, thus circumventing the need to work with molten lead, if that is
an issue. Otherwise construction does not appear to be too difficult and the
design does not appear to call for any specialty tools. However, I am still
at a very early stage in the construction of mine.
Best regards, Warren
Actualy no.... Thanks for pointing me that way!


Niels




--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Vince Chew" <vachew@f...> wrote:
> Niels,
>
> There is a news group for the Oldshoe. Have you seen it?
>http://www.egroups.com/group/Oldshoe
>
> Vince Chew
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Niels Wade" <sailzafu@n...> wrote:
> > I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience
with
> > this design?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Niels
Niels,

There is a news group for the Oldshoe. Have you seen it?
http://www.egroups.com/group/Oldshoe

Vince Chew

--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Niels Wade" <sailzafu@n...> wrote:
> I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience with
> this design?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Niels
I was considering the Oldshoe to build. Anyone was experience with
this design?

Thanks,

Niels
Hi all, I've just discovered this group but I'm not sure if I qualify for
membership as I don't own a bolger boat, only one of his books.
I tried searching the messages for mention of Oldshoe and got no hits. Does
anyone have any experience or thoughts about it? All contributions greatly
appreciated.
John Paul

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today athttp://webmail.netscape.com
The search function hasn't worked lately.

For Oldshoe, click on vault on the button bar, and look in the folder
called How To. Also, click on links on the button bar and click on
Bolger Boats on the Web. There is an article in there on Oldshoe.

john paul bullen <drjpbulle-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2506
> Hi all, I've just discovered this group but I'm not sure if I qualify
for
> membership as I don't own a bolger boat, only one of his books.
> I tried searching the messages for mention of Oldshoe and got no
hits. Does
> anyone have any experience or thoughts about it? All contributions
greatly
> appreciated.
> John Paul
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com
BO>FYI: There is a detailed explanation of one builder's Oldshow experience
BO>in the vault/how to

BO>Gregg

and maiden sailing experiences + photos on
http://www.ace.net.au/schooner/oldshoe.htm

;-)

Tim & FT2
Welcome to the group!

I am an owner/builder of a Bolger Windsprint, a 16' double ender which I sail
in the Olympia area. I live just south of you. Would love to see your boat
sometime.

Mike Masten
It's a Macintosh "SimpleText" document, which I thought was plain text.
Hold on just a bit and I'll fix it - apologies - Gregg C.


At 09:25 AM 12/3/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>Oldshoe.txt in the vault just comes up as nonsense characters for me.
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>CNET Gamecenter
>Get tips and cheats
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1883
>
>
>-- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
>--http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
Oldshoe.txt in the vault just comes up as nonsense characters for me.
FYI: There is a detailed explanation of one builder's Oldshow experience
in the vault/how to

Gregg
In a message dated 12/3/1999 8:33:26 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ghartc@...writes:

<< Just joining: my boat is a Bolger Black Skimmer, rescued from neglect
about
>8 years ago in Annapolis and restored. Cruised Northern Chesapeake for
>several years, now trailered across-country to Tacoma WA with plans for
>weekending in Puget Sound. Will discuss my designs for mast-tabernacle (has
>made raising the mainmast much easier), mast and boom crutches for
>trailering, and multi-part leeboard-hoisting tackle with any interested
>owners. >>
Greetings - Somehow I didn't get your name in this post - don't know why.
Some of these items interest me since I'm finishing up a martha jane - How
did you set up the multi part leeboard hoisting tackle? I'm just about ready
to try the same thing. I'm also considering a dual axel trailer - any
experience there? Steve Anderson
>X-eGroups-Return:WGilham@...
>Delivered-To:listsaver-egroups-bolger-owner@egroups.com
>From:WGilham@...
>Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 04:04:07 EST
>Subject: New member of Group: Black Skimmer owner
>To:bolger-owner@egroups.com
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>Just joining: my boat is a Bolger Black Skimmer, rescued from neglect about
>8 years ago in Annapolis and restored. Cruised Northern Chesapeake for
>several years, now trailered across-country to Tacoma WA with plans for
>weekending in Puget Sound. Will discuss my designs for mast-tabernacle (has
>made raising the mainmast much easier), mast and boom crutches for
>trailering, and multi-part leeboard-hoisting tackle with any interested
>owners.
>