RE: [bolger] Re: Random construction thoughts - glue
Never tried it.....I have some scrap pvc, I'll go out and try it.
Jim
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From:pan@...[mailto:pan@...]
> Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 12:15 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Random construction thoughts - glue
>
>
> Jim,
> Do you happen to know if either 5200 or PL will bond to PVC pipe, or
> which does it the best?
> Thanks, Les
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
> > Some thoughts on 5200 vs. PL Premium
> >
> > I use both, depending partly on the joint, its location, and how
> lazy I am
> > at the time.
> >
> > 5200 is almost impossible to clean up after it cures. Plugs sand
> paper; it
> > can be scraped off with difficulty. As long as it oozes out where
> it won't
> > be seen, no problem for me. I like the "grab" and the longer
> curing time.
> > Clean up uncured, the sooner, the better, with mineral spirits.
> Wear old
> > clothes and gloves. It does cure in the dry, HOT Sacramento
> Summers. I
> > like the limited flexibility of the cured glue. It seems to make a
> great
> > sealant (permanent). Painting over it is ok. Forget taking the
> joint apart
> > once its fully cured. This stuff is super strong. Unlike epoxy,
> high
> > clamping pressure can be used without worrying about the glue
> squeezing
> > itself away. I'm going to try a scarf joint with it. It should be
> > fantastic for lap strake plywood planking. I've used it for butt
> joints,
> > fastening the bottom and hull panels to chine logs and bulkheads.
> >
> > PL Premium is sandable, planable, scrapable (are all these really
> words?)
> > and its color blends better with plywood than 5200. I think it is
> easier to
> > apply. It cures much faster than 5200. Again, low humidity is
> ok. It
> > foams on curing and if you overapply, and I sure do, you will be
> cleaning up
> > around the joint, the floor, other panels, etc. Uncured cleans
> very easily
> > with mineral spirits. Cures with no flexibilty. High clamping
> pressure ok.
> > I have broken a joint or two just messing around testing it, but
> the plywood
> > also delaminated. I'm going to try a scarf joint with this, too.
> I've used
> > it for gunwales, inwales, seat frames, bulkhead frames, even re-
> laminated
> > one major plywood break. So far, so good.
> >
> > Well, that's my 2+ cents' worth....hope it helps someone.
> >
> > Jim C.
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: jmbell@m... [mailto:jmbell@m...]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:46 AM
> > > To: bolger@y...
> > > Subject: [bolger] Random construction thoughts
> > >
> > >
> > > Random notes and thoughts from building my AF4:
> > >
> > > Looking at the photos of Max Wawrzyniak's AF4 in the Files
> > > section is terrific motivation! Has it had it's sea trials yet?
> > >
> > > My boat is built out of 3/8" and ½" 2-sided MDO. So far, I really
> > > enjoy working with this plywood. I can already see how it is
> > > going to speed up the project by reducing tenfold the amount of
> > > time I'm going to spend sanding. The only concern I have is the
> > > filling the seams of the butted panels. At this time, the plan is
> > > to fill the gap with thickened epoxy putty and cover them with
> > > glass tape set in epoxy followed by careful sanding. I'm not
> > > planning on glassing anything else but the bottom for abrasion
> > > resistance and it won't get sanded that well. Watch this space
> > > for a report.
> > >
> > > Instead of using epoxy to stick the timber bits to the edges of
> > > the bulkheads, this time I'm playing with polyurethane
> > > sealants/adhesives. I had a tube of 3M 5200 which is now all used
> > > up.. The glue is backed up with SS ring nails on two inch
> > > centers. This is the way to go for this application. The 5200
> > > `grabs' the framing making it easy to flip over to drive nails
> > > through the plywood. Epoxy, on the other hand is slippery and
> > > messy and requires lots of clamping to position the framing. I
> > > really appreciate the speed with which this technique allows in
> > > getting the frames together. Try it on your next project and see
> > > if you don't like it better.
> > >
> > > Yesterday, my local home center was out of 5200, so instead I
> > > bought a tube of PL Premium to play with instead. It was a lot
> > > cheaper, ~$2.50 versus ~$9.00. I've heard third hand from Herb
> > > McCleod and others that it works very well. We'll see how it
> works.
> > >
> > > Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of
> > > plywood together. My own dory uses this technique, but I'm not
> > > convinced this is the way to go. On the dory there is some
> > > cracking at the upper end of one of the butt blocks. It is backed
> > > up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a concern. The
> > > cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it
> > > undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like
> > > the bottom and topsides of my boat. Instead, I'm going to use 1/2
> > > " plywood butt plates which will be fastened with epoxy and ring
> nails.
> > >
> > > So far, I've got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All
> > > three permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and
> > > the two temporary forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing
> > > on the water in time for the Midwest Messabout in June.
> > >
> > > Best,
> > >
> > > JB in Kennesaw, GA
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > > - no flogging dead horses
> > > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Jim,
Do you happen to know if either 5200 or PL will bond to PVC pipe, or
which does it the best?
Thanks, Les
Do you happen to know if either 5200 or PL will bond to PVC pipe, or
which does it the best?
Thanks, Les
--- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
> Some thoughts on 5200 vs. PL Premium
>
> I use both, depending partly on the joint, its location, and how
lazy I am
> at the time.
>
> 5200 is almost impossible to clean up after it cures. Plugs sand
paper; it
> can be scraped off with difficulty. As long as it oozes out where
it won't
> be seen, no problem for me. I like the "grab" and the longer
curing time.
> Clean up uncured, the sooner, the better, with mineral spirits.
Wear old
> clothes and gloves. It does cure in the dry, HOT Sacramento
Summers. I
> like the limited flexibility of the cured glue. It seems to make a
great
> sealant (permanent). Painting over it is ok. Forget taking the
joint apart
> once its fully cured. This stuff is super strong. Unlike epoxy,
high
> clamping pressure can be used without worrying about the glue
squeezing
> itself away. I'm going to try a scarf joint with it. It should be
> fantastic for lap strake plywood planking. I've used it for butt
joints,
> fastening the bottom and hull panels to chine logs and bulkheads.
>
> PL Premium is sandable, planable, scrapable (are all these really
words?)
> and its color blends better with plywood than 5200. I think it is
easier to
> apply. It cures much faster than 5200. Again, low humidity is
ok. It
> foams on curing and if you overapply, and I sure do, you will be
cleaning up
> around the joint, the floor, other panels, etc. Uncured cleans
very easily
> with mineral spirits. Cures with no flexibilty. High clamping
pressure ok.
> I have broken a joint or two just messing around testing it, but
the plywood
> also delaminated. I'm going to try a scarf joint with this, too.
I've used
> it for gunwales, inwales, seat frames, bulkhead frames, even re-
laminated
> one major plywood break. So far, so good.
>
> Well, that's my 2+ cents' worth....hope it helps someone.
>
> Jim C.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jmbell@m... [mailto:jmbell@m...]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:46 AM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Random construction thoughts
> >
> >
> > Random notes and thoughts from building my AF4:
> >
> > Looking at the photos of Max Wawrzyniak's AF4 in the Files
> > section is terrific motivation! Has it had it's sea trials yet?
> >
> > My boat is built out of 3/8" and ½" 2-sided MDO. So far, I really
> > enjoy working with this plywood. I can already see how it is
> > going to speed up the project by reducing tenfold the amount of
> > time I'm going to spend sanding. The only concern I have is the
> > filling the seams of the butted panels. At this time, the plan is
> > to fill the gap with thickened epoxy putty and cover them with
> > glass tape set in epoxy followed by careful sanding. I'm not
> > planning on glassing anything else but the bottom for abrasion
> > resistance and it won't get sanded that well. Watch this space
> > for a report.
> >
> > Instead of using epoxy to stick the timber bits to the edges of
> > the bulkheads, this time I'm playing with polyurethane
> > sealants/adhesives. I had a tube of 3M 5200 which is now all used
> > up.. The glue is backed up with SS ring nails on two inch
> > centers. This is the way to go for this application. The 5200
> > `grabs' the framing making it easy to flip over to drive nails
> > through the plywood. Epoxy, on the other hand is slippery and
> > messy and requires lots of clamping to position the framing. I
> > really appreciate the speed with which this technique allows in
> > getting the frames together. Try it on your next project and see
> > if you don't like it better.
> >
> > Yesterday, my local home center was out of 5200, so instead I
> > bought a tube of PL Premium to play with instead. It was a lot
> > cheaper, ~$2.50 versus ~$9.00. I've heard third hand from Herb
> > McCleod and others that it works very well. We'll see how it
works.
> >
> > Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of
> > plywood together. My own dory uses this technique, but I'm not
> > convinced this is the way to go. On the dory there is some
> > cracking at the upper end of one of the butt blocks. It is backed
> > up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a concern. The
> > cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it
> > undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like
> > the bottom and topsides of my boat. Instead, I'm going to use 1/2
> > " plywood butt plates which will be fastened with epoxy and ring
nails.
> >
> > So far, I've got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All
> > three permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and
> > the two temporary forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing
> > on the water in time for the Midwest Messabout in June.
> >
> > Best,
> >
> > JB in Kennesaw, GA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Some thoughts on 5200 vs. PL Premium
I use both, depending partly on the joint, its location, and how lazy I am
at the time.
5200 is almost impossible to clean up after it cures. Plugs sand paper; it
can be scraped off with difficulty. As long as it oozes out where it won't
be seen, no problem for me. I like the "grab" and the longer curing time.
Clean up uncured, the sooner, the better, with mineral spirits. Wear old
clothes and gloves. It does cure in the dry, HOT Sacramento Summers. I
like the limited flexibility of the cured glue. It seems to make a great
sealant (permanent). Painting over it is ok. Forget taking the joint apart
once its fully cured. This stuff is super strong. Unlike epoxy, high
clamping pressure can be used without worrying about the glue squeezing
itself away. I'm going to try a scarf joint with it. It should be
fantastic for lap strake plywood planking. I've used it for butt joints,
fastening the bottom and hull panels to chine logs and bulkheads.
PL Premium is sandable, planable, scrapable (are all these really words?)
and its color blends better with plywood than 5200. I think it is easier to
apply. It cures much faster than 5200. Again, low humidity is ok. It
foams on curing and if you overapply, and I sure do, you will be cleaning up
around the joint, the floor, other panels, etc. Uncured cleans very easily
with mineral spirits. Cures with no flexibilty. High clamping pressure ok.
I have broken a joint or two just messing around testing it, but the plywood
also delaminated. I'm going to try a scarf joint with this, too. I've used
it for gunwales, inwales, seat frames, bulkhead frames, even re-laminated
one major plywood break. So far, so good.
Well, that's my 2+ cents' worth....hope it helps someone.
Jim C.
I use both, depending partly on the joint, its location, and how lazy I am
at the time.
5200 is almost impossible to clean up after it cures. Plugs sand paper; it
can be scraped off with difficulty. As long as it oozes out where it won't
be seen, no problem for me. I like the "grab" and the longer curing time.
Clean up uncured, the sooner, the better, with mineral spirits. Wear old
clothes and gloves. It does cure in the dry, HOT Sacramento Summers. I
like the limited flexibility of the cured glue. It seems to make a great
sealant (permanent). Painting over it is ok. Forget taking the joint apart
once its fully cured. This stuff is super strong. Unlike epoxy, high
clamping pressure can be used without worrying about the glue squeezing
itself away. I'm going to try a scarf joint with it. It should be
fantastic for lap strake plywood planking. I've used it for butt joints,
fastening the bottom and hull panels to chine logs and bulkheads.
PL Premium is sandable, planable, scrapable (are all these really words?)
and its color blends better with plywood than 5200. I think it is easier to
apply. It cures much faster than 5200. Again, low humidity is ok. It
foams on curing and if you overapply, and I sure do, you will be cleaning up
around the joint, the floor, other panels, etc. Uncured cleans very easily
with mineral spirits. Cures with no flexibilty. High clamping pressure ok.
I have broken a joint or two just messing around testing it, but the plywood
also delaminated. I'm going to try a scarf joint with this, too. I've used
it for gunwales, inwales, seat frames, bulkhead frames, even re-laminated
one major plywood break. So far, so good.
Well, that's my 2+ cents' worth....hope it helps someone.
Jim C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:jmbell@...[mailto:jmbell@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 6:46 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Random construction thoughts
>
>
> Random notes and thoughts from building my AF4:
>
> Looking at the photos of Max Wawrzyniak's AF4 in the Files
> section is terrific motivation! Has it had its sea trials yet?
>
> My boat is built out of 3/8 and ½ 2-sided MDO. So far, I really
> enjoy working with this plywood. I can already see how it is
> going to speed up the project by reducing tenfold the amount of
> time Im going to spend sanding. The only concern I have is the
> filling the seams of the butted panels. At this time, the plan is
> to fill the gap with thickened epoxy putty and cover them with
> glass tape set in epoxy followed by careful sanding. Im not
> planning on glassing anything else but the bottom for abrasion
> resistance and it wont get sanded that well. Watch this space
> for a report.
>
> Instead of using epoxy to stick the timber bits to the edges of
> the bulkheads, this time Im playing with polyurethane
> sealants/adhesives. I had a tube of 3M 5200 which is now all used
> up.. The glue is backed up with SS ring nails on two inch
> centers. This is the way to go for this application. The 5200
> grabs the framing making it easy to flip over to drive nails
> through the plywood. Epoxy, on the other hand is slippery and
> messy and requires lots of clamping to position the framing. I
> really appreciate the speed with which this technique allows in
> getting the frames together. Try it on your next project and see
> if you dont like it better.
>
> Yesterday, my local home center was out of 5200, so instead I
> bought a tube of PL Premium to play with instead. It was a lot
> cheaper, ~$2.50 versus ~$9.00. Ive heard third hand from Herb
> McCleod and others that it works very well. Well see how it works.
>
> Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of
> plywood together. My own dory uses this technique, but Im not
> convinced this is the way to go. On the dory there is some
> cracking at the upper end of one of the butt blocks. It is backed
> up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a concern. The
> cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it
> undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like
> the bottom and topsides of my boat. Instead, Im going to use 1/2
> plywood butt plates which will be fastened with epoxy and ring nails.
>
> So far, Ive got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All
> three permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and
> the two temporary forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing
> on the water in time for the Midwest Messabout in June.
>
> Best,
>
> JB in Kennesaw, GA
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
There are a lot of different types of PL glues. The polyureathanes like PL premeium (and 3M 5200) are moisture cured, so I'd expect them to fully cure more rapidly in damp conditions. Latex-based caulks may not do as well in the damp. I expect them to be somewhat pliable.
JB
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrote:
in touch. Classmates.com has over 14 million registered
high school alumni--chances are you'll find your friends!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/03IJGA/DMUCAA/4ihDAA/_HPVlB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
JB
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrote:
> IMake good on the promise you made at graduation to keep
in touch. Classmates.com has over 14 million registered
high school alumni--chances are you'll find your friends!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/03IJGA/DMUCAA/4ihDAA/_HPVlB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I
<< 3M 5200
Y PL Premium
Have you checked on the waterprof of these glues? I have used thr PL glue
in house construstion In damp conditions it doesn't seem to fully cure,
remains plyable
I have used waterprof wood glue fir this job in boats and so far so good.
Mark
<< 3M 5200
Y PL Premium
Have you checked on the waterprof of these glues? I have used thr PL glue
in house construstion In damp conditions it doesn't seem to fully cure,
remains plyable
I have used waterprof wood glue fir this job in boats and so far so good.
Mark
> I was doubtful about the 1x4 butt joints too, and did not use them.What about cutting the 1x4 in 4" sections and running the grain the
other way?
Peter (who has never made a butt joint, but would probably try the
epoxy/glass type first)
John:
I was doubtful about the 1x4 butt joints too, and did not use them. I have
used ply for these joints before, and did not like them either. There was a
tendency for the ply to delaminate when the panel was bent. I have to admit
that I did not use nails bent over as Payson suggests. Lately, I have
started using taped joints with much success. This is an easy technique to
master, and the results are both strong, and attractive.
Hope to see you at Rend Lake, John.
Chuck
way to go. On the dory there is some cracking at the upper end of one of the
butt blocks. It is backed up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a
concern. The cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it
undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like the bottom
and topsides of my boat. Instead, I'm going to use 1/2 " plywood butt plates
which will be fastened with epoxy and ring nails.
forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing on the water in time for the
Midwest Messabout in June.
I was doubtful about the 1x4 butt joints too, and did not use them. I have
used ply for these joints before, and did not like them either. There was a
tendency for the ply to delaminate when the panel was bent. I have to admit
that I did not use nails bent over as Payson suggests. Lately, I have
started using taped joints with much success. This is an easy technique to
master, and the results are both strong, and attractive.
Hope to see you at Rend Lake, John.
Chuck
> Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of plywoodtogether. My own dory uses this technique, but I'm not convinced this is the
way to go. On the dory there is some cracking at the upper end of one of the
butt blocks. It is backed up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a
concern. The cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it
undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like the bottom
and topsides of my boat. Instead, I'm going to use 1/2 " plywood butt plates
which will be fastened with epoxy and ring nails.
>permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and the two temporary
> So far, I've got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All three
forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing on the water in time for the
Midwest Messabout in June.
>
> Best,
>
> JB in Kennesaw, GA
Random notes and thoughts from building my AF4:
Looking at the photos of Max Wawrzyniak's AF4 in the Files section is terrific motivation! Has it had it�s sea trials yet?
My boat is built out of 3/8� and �� 2-sided MDO. So far, I really enjoy working with this plywood. I can already see how it is going to speed up the project by reducing tenfold the amount of time I�m going to spend sanding. The only concern I have is the filling the seams of the butted panels. At this time, the plan is to fill the gap with thickened epoxy putty and cover them with glass tape set in epoxy followed by careful sanding. I�m not planning on glassing anything else but the bottom for abrasion resistance and it won�t get sanded that well. Watch this space for a report.
Instead of using epoxy to stick the timber bits to the edges of the bulkheads, this time I�m playing with polyurethane sealants/adhesives. I had a tube of 3M 5200 which is now all used up.. The glue is backed up with SS ring nails on two inch centers. This is the way to go for this application. The 5200 �grabs� the framing making it easy to flip over to drive nails through the plywood. Epoxy, on the other hand is slippery and messy and requires lots of clamping to position the framing. I really appreciate the speed with which this technique allows in getting the frames together. Try it on your next project and see if you don�t like it better.
Yesterday, my local home center was out of 5200, so instead I bought a tube of PL Premium to play with instead. It was a lot cheaper, ~$2.50 versus ~$9.00. I�ve heard third hand from Herb McCleod and others that it works very well. We�ll see how it works.
Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of plywood together. My own dory uses this technique, but I�m not convinced this is the way to go. On the dory there is some cracking at the upper end of one of the butt blocks. It is backed up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a concern. The cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like the bottom and topsides of my boat. Instead, I�m going to use 1/2 � plywood butt plates which will be fastened with epoxy and ring nails.
So far, I�ve got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All three permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and the two temporary forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing on the water in time for the Midwest Messabout in June.
Best,
JB in Kennesaw, GA
Looking at the photos of Max Wawrzyniak's AF4 in the Files section is terrific motivation! Has it had it�s sea trials yet?
My boat is built out of 3/8� and �� 2-sided MDO. So far, I really enjoy working with this plywood. I can already see how it is going to speed up the project by reducing tenfold the amount of time I�m going to spend sanding. The only concern I have is the filling the seams of the butted panels. At this time, the plan is to fill the gap with thickened epoxy putty and cover them with glass tape set in epoxy followed by careful sanding. I�m not planning on glassing anything else but the bottom for abrasion resistance and it won�t get sanded that well. Watch this space for a report.
Instead of using epoxy to stick the timber bits to the edges of the bulkheads, this time I�m playing with polyurethane sealants/adhesives. I had a tube of 3M 5200 which is now all used up.. The glue is backed up with SS ring nails on two inch centers. This is the way to go for this application. The 5200 �grabs� the framing making it easy to flip over to drive nails through the plywood. Epoxy, on the other hand is slippery and messy and requires lots of clamping to position the framing. I really appreciate the speed with which this technique allows in getting the frames together. Try it on your next project and see if you don�t like it better.
Yesterday, my local home center was out of 5200, so instead I bought a tube of PL Premium to play with instead. It was a lot cheaper, ~$2.50 versus ~$9.00. I�ve heard third hand from Herb McCleod and others that it works very well. We�ll see how it works.
Jim advocates using 1x4 dimensional lumber to butt sheets of plywood together. My own dory uses this technique, but I�m not convinced this is the way to go. On the dory there is some cracking at the upper end of one of the butt blocks. It is backed up by the gunwale in this area, but it is a concern. The cross-grain strength of a 1x4 is really low which makes it undesirable in my opinion for joining large stressed panels like the bottom and topsides of my boat. Instead, I�m going to use 1/2 � plywood butt plates which will be fastened with epoxy and ring nails.
So far, I�ve got about 5 hours invested in two work sessions. All three permanent bulkheads are built, with only the transom and the two temporary forms remaining. The plan is to get this thing on the water in time for the Midwest Messabout in June.
Best,
JB in Kennesaw, GA