[bolger] Re: Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
Brooks had a three-article series on building Ellen. They appeared
in Woodenboat issues 156, 157, and 158. You can order reprints or
back issues athttp://www.woodenboat.com/wbbacki.htm
in Woodenboat issues 156, 157, and 158. You can order reprints or
back issues athttp://www.woodenboat.com/wbbacki.htm
--- In bolger@y..., delliott@t... wrote:
> Thanks for the post, I'm still digesting Iain's book. Am I right,
didn't
> Brooks have some boatbuilding article in Wooden Boat magazine? Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Eike" <reike2@h...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 4:47 PM
> Subject: Re[2]: [bolger] Re: Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
>
>
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Hi Don,
That's correct, John did have a 2 or 3 part article in WoodenBoat
Magazine.
Ron
That's correct, John did have a 2 or 3 part article in WoodenBoat
Magazine.
Ron
Thanks for the post, I'm still digesting Iain's book. Am I right, didn't
Brooks have some boatbuilding article in Wooden Boat magazine? Don
Brooks have some boatbuilding article in Wooden Boat magazine? Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Eike" <reike2@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 4:47 PM
Subject: Re[2]: [bolger] Re: Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
> Hi Don,
>
> I am waiting for John Brooks' book on Plywood Lapstrake construction
> which is due out in August. I took a class from John at Woodenboat
> School 3 years ago and learned a lot from him. Some of his methods are
> unique and I can't wait to get my hands on the book.
>
> Ron
>
> Tuesday, April 03, 2001, 9:17:27 AM, you wrote:
>
> dtc> Bob, I have also received just received Iain Oughtred's "Clinker
Plywood
> dtc> Boatbuilding Manual". I was truly impressed by its contents.
> dtc> It is a highly detailed manual covering every step of clinker boat
building
> dtc> and it comes from a guy that knows his subject very well.
> dtc> The book not only covers the clinker part of building but the entire
process
> dtc> of building the complete boat.
> dtc> You can't go wrong getting this book. By the way, its fully
illustrated,
> dtc> using 100's of photos for clarity. Don
>
>
>
>
> --
> Best regards,
> Ron mailto:reike2@...
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Don,
I am waiting for John Brooks' book on Plywood Lapstrake construction
which is due out in August. I took a class from John at Woodenboat
School 3 years ago and learned a lot from him. Some of his methods are
unique and I can't wait to get my hands on the book.
Ron
Tuesday, April 03, 2001, 9:17:27 AM, you wrote:
dtc> Bob, I have also received just received Iain Oughtred's "Clinker Plywood
dtc> Boatbuilding Manual". I was truly impressed by its contents.
dtc> It is a highly detailed manual covering every step of clinker boat building
dtc> and it comes from a guy that knows his subject very well.
dtc> The book not only covers the clinker part of building but the entire process
dtc> of building the complete boat.
dtc> You can't go wrong getting this book. By the way, its fully illustrated,
dtc> using 100's of photos for clarity. Don
--
Best regards,
Ron mailto:reike2@...
I am waiting for John Brooks' book on Plywood Lapstrake construction
which is due out in August. I took a class from John at Woodenboat
School 3 years ago and learned a lot from him. Some of his methods are
unique and I can't wait to get my hands on the book.
Ron
Tuesday, April 03, 2001, 9:17:27 AM, you wrote:
dtc> Bob, I have also received just received Iain Oughtred's "Clinker Plywood
dtc> Boatbuilding Manual". I was truly impressed by its contents.
dtc> It is a highly detailed manual covering every step of clinker boat building
dtc> and it comes from a guy that knows his subject very well.
dtc> The book not only covers the clinker part of building but the entire process
dtc> of building the complete boat.
dtc> You can't go wrong getting this book. By the way, its fully illustrated,
dtc> using 100's of photos for clarity. Don
--
Best regards,
Ron mailto:reike2@...
I'm a dummy and I'll vouch for Tom Hill's book, "Ultralight
Boatbuilding." I took the lines off a relative's Maine guide canoe
and used Mr. Hill's method to make a glued lapstrake version. It was
time consuming but worked well. Start gathering clamps now.
As for the station molds, you can use molds for any design but will
need to take 3/8" off the edge to make room for the ribbands. The
ribbands are left on the mold in Tom Hill's method, leaving a nice,
smooth, easy-to-clean interior.
I used Raka epoxy to glue the strakes - worked fine. Since it was
pretty much an experiment, I used only the best Home Depot luaun 1/4"
ply and glassed the bottom two strakes with polyester resin. Someone
apparently forgot to tell the boat that by all accounts it should
fall apart as it's going strong after almost four years of hard use
and (mostly) outdoor storage. Anyway, I kept the station molds so I
can remake it out of real marine ply should it decide fall apart.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
Boatbuilding." I took the lines off a relative's Maine guide canoe
and used Mr. Hill's method to make a glued lapstrake version. It was
time consuming but worked well. Start gathering clamps now.
As for the station molds, you can use molds for any design but will
need to take 3/8" off the edge to make room for the ribbands. The
ribbands are left on the mold in Tom Hill's method, leaving a nice,
smooth, easy-to-clean interior.
I used Raka epoxy to glue the strakes - worked fine. Since it was
pretty much an experiment, I used only the best Home Depot luaun 1/4"
ply and glassed the bottom two strakes with polyester resin. Someone
apparently forgot to tell the boat that by all accounts it should
fall apart as it's going strong after almost four years of hard use
and (mostly) outdoor storage. Anyway, I kept the station molds so I
can remake it out of real marine ply should it decide fall apart.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
--- In bolger@y..., "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...> wrote:
Tom Hill's book, "Ultralight Boatbuilding" details
construction of a
lapstrake canoe and a flat-bottomed skiff. It's similar in level
of
detail to Payson's books, i.e. quite detailed, but for only the
specific boat in question. The method he describes uses ribbands
(stringers) on the mold which define the shape of each plank before
construction begins, and allow entirely mindless beveling of each
plank edge. He also has a video, which shows construction of the
canoe; not brilliant filmmaking, but very clear.
Iain Oughtred's book "Clinker Ply Boatbuilding" is mostly
pictures,
LOTS of pictures, with a bit of accompanying text. It covers many
different types of small boats, and lots of different construction
details for seats, floatation chambers, decks, mast steps, all that
stuff. He uses a rather different construction technique; no
ribbands, much like traditional lapstrake, with planks scarfed on the
mold sometimes.
There was a series of three (?) very detailed how-to articles in the
last few issues of Wooden Boat about building John Brooks'
"Ellen",
a 12' plywood lapstrake boat. He uses molds similar to Iain
Oughtred's, but has a unique clamping method involving screwing
through a batten and the planks into little backing blocks. This
completely solves the "never have enough clamps" problem, but
leaves
lots of little holes to fill. John Brooks will have a book out in
August, they say, about ply lapstrake construction.
There are also two little books from Wooden Boat Magazine about
building the Nutshell Pram and the Shellback Dinghy, two Joel White
designs in glued ply lapstrake, although with quite wide planks.
These are mainly for those two boats only, but are well done.
My own personal preference, after having built 3-2/3 plywood
lapstrake boats (one in process OK, OK two of them were cradle
boats, only 3'-6" long, but they were harder than the full
size ones,
I tell you) is for Tom Hill's method, with the ribbands on the
mold.
I really like being able to lay out the plank shapes before cutting
up any plywood. Fair plank lines are very important to the
appearance of the boat, and it's not hard to make it look pretty
strange if you're not careful. Also, this type of construction
just
about requires good-quality plywood; AC Fir won't cut it here,
and I
get the heebie-jeebies about cutting into a $50 sheet of plywood
unless I KNOW what I'm doing.
Several tips:
The clamps made out of a U-shaped piece of ¾" ply work great
(see
the cover of Oughtred's book). Make the wedges out of the piece
you
cut our of the center of the U. They're quicker and easier than
the
store-bought kind and cost just about nothing.
I much prefer T-88 adhesive from System 3 it's a 1-1 glue
that was
originally developed for aircraft, it's been around forever, and
you
don't have to mess with fillers, priming with unthickened epoxy
all
that just mix, slather and clamp. It's no good for
anything else
but a structural adhesive, but it does that superbly.
Use a scraper and a heat gun to clean up drips; you'll have an
astounding number of drips on the inside of the hull, and the heat
gin takes cleanup from a real pain to a minor annoyance
Anyway, this has gotten long and tedious; sorry Ply Lapstrake is
an
excellent way to build a boat , though. It's adaptable to almost
any
hull shape, stays tight and dry, is very strong and light, is
relatively easy to do once you get the hang of it, and, best of all,
requires a very minimum of sanding.
> Does anybody have suggestions where to go for info aboutplywood
> glue lapstrake construction . . .Several sources for information on glued-ply lapstrake construction:
Tom Hill's book, "Ultralight Boatbuilding" details
construction of a
lapstrake canoe and a flat-bottomed skiff. It's similar in level
of
detail to Payson's books, i.e. quite detailed, but for only the
specific boat in question. The method he describes uses ribbands
(stringers) on the mold which define the shape of each plank before
construction begins, and allow entirely mindless beveling of each
plank edge. He also has a video, which shows construction of the
canoe; not brilliant filmmaking, but very clear.
Iain Oughtred's book "Clinker Ply Boatbuilding" is mostly
pictures,
LOTS of pictures, with a bit of accompanying text. It covers many
different types of small boats, and lots of different construction
details for seats, floatation chambers, decks, mast steps, all that
stuff. He uses a rather different construction technique; no
ribbands, much like traditional lapstrake, with planks scarfed on the
mold sometimes.
There was a series of three (?) very detailed how-to articles in the
last few issues of Wooden Boat about building John Brooks'
"Ellen",
a 12' plywood lapstrake boat. He uses molds similar to Iain
Oughtred's, but has a unique clamping method involving screwing
through a batten and the planks into little backing blocks. This
completely solves the "never have enough clamps" problem, but
leaves
lots of little holes to fill. John Brooks will have a book out in
August, they say, about ply lapstrake construction.
There are also two little books from Wooden Boat Magazine about
building the Nutshell Pram and the Shellback Dinghy, two Joel White
designs in glued ply lapstrake, although with quite wide planks.
These are mainly for those two boats only, but are well done.
My own personal preference, after having built 3-2/3 plywood
lapstrake boats (one in process OK, OK two of them were cradle
boats, only 3'-6" long, but they were harder than the full
size ones,
I tell you) is for Tom Hill's method, with the ribbands on the
mold.
I really like being able to lay out the plank shapes before cutting
up any plywood. Fair plank lines are very important to the
appearance of the boat, and it's not hard to make it look pretty
strange if you're not careful. Also, this type of construction
just
about requires good-quality plywood; AC Fir won't cut it here,
and I
get the heebie-jeebies about cutting into a $50 sheet of plywood
unless I KNOW what I'm doing.
Several tips:
The clamps made out of a U-shaped piece of ¾" ply work great
(see
the cover of Oughtred's book). Make the wedges out of the piece
you
cut our of the center of the U. They're quicker and easier than
the
store-bought kind and cost just about nothing.
I much prefer T-88 adhesive from System 3 it's a 1-1 glue
that was
originally developed for aircraft, it's been around forever, and
you
don't have to mess with fillers, priming with unthickened epoxy
all
that just mix, slather and clamp. It's no good for
anything else
but a structural adhesive, but it does that superbly.
Use a scraper and a heat gun to clean up drips; you'll have an
astounding number of drips on the inside of the hull, and the heat
gin takes cleanup from a real pain to a minor annoyance
Anyway, this has gotten long and tedious; sorry Ply Lapstrake is
an
excellent way to build a boat , though. It's adaptable to almost
any
hull shape, stays tight and dry, is very strong and light, is
relatively easy to do once you get the hang of it, and, best of all,
requires a very minimum of sanding.
Not to quibble, but the word I would have used is 'clunky.' I only
pointed out the site because of the video, although I think the
boats, especially the power craft, are interesting. As for building,
well, I'm not a builder, don't listen to me.
Peter
pointed out the site because of the video, although I think the
boats, especially the power craft, are interesting. As for building,
well, I'm not a builder, don't listen to me.
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., delliott@t... wrote:
> Peter, don't you find the stringers unsightly, inspite of making the
> construction easier. Don
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <pvanderw@o...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 8:29 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
>
>
> >
> > Arch Davis offers designs for a couple of boats with a variant of
> > glued lap construction. He puts a longitudinal at each lap, which
he
> > thinks makes it easier. I bring this up mostly to also note that
he
> > offers a 2 hour video with a couple of his designs. I would think
> > that he would sell the video separately, although I don't see a
price
> > for it on his site.
> >
> >http://www.by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Peter, don't you find the stringers unsightly, inspite of making the
construction easier. Don
construction easier. Don
----- Original Message -----
From: <pvanderw@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2001 8:29 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
>
> Arch Davis offers designs for a couple of boats with a variant of
> glued lap construction. He puts a longitudinal at each lap, which he
> thinks makes it easier. I bring this up mostly to also note that he
> offers a 2 hour video with a couple of his designs. I would think
> that he would sell the video separately, although I don't see a price
> for it on his site.
>
>http://www.by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
>
> Peter
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Justin, yes you have to have forms, my finding has been the more forms the
fairer the hull and the easier it is to build the boat.
Have you looked at the Japanese Beach Cruiser, it would be far easier to
trailer and beach, which can be very important factor in deciding on a boat,
it all depends on what you want. It would be a lot easier to build but not
as pretty as the Supermouse.
One major assets to the Supermouse it the house, you could use a folding
cover like the one used on the Oldshoe on the Japanese Beach Cruiser, this
would allow you to reduce the windage when you wanted to.
The Supermouse would probably be better in a knock down however. Overall I
think the Supermouse is the better boat, if draft and trailering is not a
problem. Looks like it would be a lot of fun and sure would be a nice
possession. Just a few thoughts. Don
fairer the hull and the easier it is to build the boat.
Have you looked at the Japanese Beach Cruiser, it would be far easier to
trailer and beach, which can be very important factor in deciding on a boat,
it all depends on what you want. It would be a lot easier to build but not
as pretty as the Supermouse.
One major assets to the Supermouse it the house, you could use a folding
cover like the one used on the Oldshoe on the Japanese Beach Cruiser, this
would allow you to reduce the windage when you wanted to.
The Supermouse would probably be better in a knock down however. Overall I
think the Supermouse is the better boat, if draft and trailering is not a
problem. Looks like it would be a lot of fun and sure would be a nice
possession. Just a few thoughts. Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 10:47 PM
Subject: [bolger] Glued ply lapstrake (for dummies)
> Does anybody have suggestions where to go for info about plywood
> glue lapstrake construction (books, websites, other).
> I have managed to convince my self that Supermouse should be my next
> project, but I have no clue how to do this. Do you build a form at each
> station?
> What next?
> Justin Meddock
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Arch Davis offers designs for a couple of boats with a variant of
glued lap construction. He puts a longitudinal at each lap, which he
thinks makes it easier. I bring this up mostly to also note that he
offers a 2 hour video with a couple of his designs. I would think
that he would sell the video separately, although I don't see a price
for it on his site.
http://www.by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
Peter
glued lap construction. He puts a longitudinal at each lap, which he
thinks makes it easier. I bring this up mostly to also note that he
offers a 2 hour video with a couple of his designs. I would think
that he would sell the video separately, although I don't see a price
for it on his site.
http://www.by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
Peter
Bob, I have also received just received Iain Oughtred's "Clinker Plywood
Boatbuilding Manual". I was truly impressed by its contents.
It is a highly detailed manual covering every step of clinker boat building
and it comes from a guy that knows his subject very well.
The book not only covers the clinker part of building but the entire process
of building the complete boat.
You can't go wrong getting this book. By the way, its fully illustrated,
using 100's of photos for clarity. Don
Boatbuilding Manual". I was truly impressed by its contents.
It is a highly detailed manual covering every step of clinker boat building
and it comes from a guy that knows his subject very well.
The book not only covers the clinker part of building but the entire process
of building the complete boat.
You can't go wrong getting this book. By the way, its fully illustrated,
using 100's of photos for clarity. Don
I recently bought the plans for Mr Bolger's "Spartina". He
recommended Iain Oughtred's "Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual". I
bought it. Comparing it to "Ultralight Boatbuilding" it has a lot more
information about general lapstrake construction and especially a lot
more details about construction in general. For traditional lapstrake
construction there is a two volume set by Walter Simmons, "Lapstrake
Boatbuilding" and John Leather's "Clinker Boatbuilding". The last two
are lightly illustrated and excessively verbose but all the
information is there for traditional clinker construction. If I decide
to build "Spartina" now that I have the plans the Oughtred book will
be my bible. The clinker construction isn't what is scaring me but the
size and cost of construction. I would love to do a clinker version of
Bobcat if that were feasible.
Bob Chamberland
recommended Iain Oughtred's "Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual". I
bought it. Comparing it to "Ultralight Boatbuilding" it has a lot more
information about general lapstrake construction and especially a lot
more details about construction in general. For traditional lapstrake
construction there is a two volume set by Walter Simmons, "Lapstrake
Boatbuilding" and John Leather's "Clinker Boatbuilding". The last two
are lightly illustrated and excessively verbose but all the
information is there for traditional clinker construction. If I decide
to build "Spartina" now that I have the plans the Oughtred book will
be my bible. The clinker construction isn't what is scaring me but the
size and cost of construction. I would love to do a clinker version of
Bobcat if that were feasible.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...> wrote:
> Does anybody have suggestions where to go for info about
plywood
> glue lapstrake construction (books, websites, other).
> I have managed to convince my self that Supermouse should be my next
> project, but I have no clue how to do this. Do you build a form at
each
> station?
> What next?
> Justin Meddock
Hi Justin,
You can pick up a nice little book with illustrations for $10.00 at
http://www.duck-trap.com/gluedlap.htmlthe book is mainly a
construction manual for the duck trap wherry but there is a lot of
info for $10.00. It may be a place to start, good luck.
Les
You can pick up a nice little book with illustrations for $10.00 at
http://www.duck-trap.com/gluedlap.htmlthe book is mainly a
construction manual for the duck trap wherry but there is a lot of
info for $10.00. It may be a place to start, good luck.
Les
--- In bolger@y..., "Justin Meddock" <jmeddock@n...> wrote:
> Does anybody have suggestions where to go for info about
plywood
> glue lapstrake construction (books, websites, other).
> I have managed to convince my self that Supermouse should be my next
> project, but I have no clue how to do this. Do you build a form at
each
> station?
> What next?
> Justin Meddock
Does anybody have suggestions where to go for info about plywood
glue lapstrake construction (books, websites, other).
I have managed to convince my self that Supermouse should be my next
project, but I have no clue how to do this. Do you build a form at each
station?
What next?
Justin Meddock
glue lapstrake construction (books, websites, other).
I have managed to convince my self that Supermouse should be my next
project, but I have no clue how to do this. Do you build a form at each
station?
What next?
Justin Meddock