Re: Brick-Lapstrake two fer ?
See responses below. Brick design seems to be worked out pretty well.
My only concerns are kick up boards and flotation. No other critiscism
(sp?) comes to mind. And both of those would compromise its basic
simplicity and impressive roominess.
My only concerns are kick up boards and flotation. No other critiscism
(sp?) comes to mind. And both of those would compromise its basic
simplicity and impressive roominess.
--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> I have been following the Brick thread. Looks like a nice little
> boat. I do not have plans but have a couple of questions.
> Are the sides made of one piece, or a curved bottom piece and a top
> straight second piece, I assume butt jointed to the lower curved
>one?
Each side is one piece.
> I have read that the Brick is to be made of 1/4 in ply.
> Is the bottom also 1/4 inch?
Yes, and with the stringers, it seems plenty strong, probably because
it has so much curvature. And I think ours is only luan. It does flex
a little in strong winds from the heeling force of the mast, but not
much. I am always amazed that the mast "partners" as designed hold up,
but they do, and i've been out in too much wind (say, 20 or 25
mph) with 400 lb crew weight. Enough that I lost control of the rig
and had to row back.
> I have read the story of building of all 3/8 and making a very heavy
> boat, with diagrams on how to get it on top of a car.
> If the sides are indeed two pieces, althogh I know it would make the
> boat heavier, how about "Good" 3/8 ply for the bottom, and
"Lapstake"
> sides, with the bottom curved part of 3/8 and the upper part of 1/4
> ply. Would make a very strong boat.
Stronger than necessary. Brick is pretty strong as is. Stronger will
be heavier.
snip
> Thanks
> Pat Patteson
> Molalla,Oregon
I have been following the Brick thread. Looks like a nice little
boat. I do not have plans but have a couple of questions.
Are the sides made of one piece, or a curved bottom piece and a top
straight second piece, I assume butt jointed to the lower curved one?
I have read that the Brick is to be made of 1/4 in ply.
Is the bottom also 1/4 inch?
I have read the story of building of all 3/8 and making a very heavy
boat, with diagrams on how to get it on top of a car.
If the sides are indeed two pieces, althogh I know it would make the
boat heavier, how about "Good" 3/8 ply for the bottom, and "Lapstake"
sides, with the bottom curved part of 3/8 and the upper part of 1/4
ply. Would make a very strong boat.
Leads to question two and maybe three. On straight ply lapstrake,
how does one get the end of the two piece to end up the same
thickness,
"Rabiting" the two near the end so they end up the same thickness,1/4
or3/8? and more difficult, if one put a 3/4x 1 1/4
piece between the two to give extra strenght, how does one get the
whole thing to taper to the same thickness of 3/8 or 1/4 at the stem
and stern so as not to have lumps and bump and the ends.
I've alway thought that 3/4 by 1 1/4' spacers would give light boat a
lot more strength by "fooling" it into thinking it is really 1 3/8'
stock at that point. See "drawing" on "Toad" file page as my attempt
to reference.
Makes for light weight , but very stiff and strong construction.
Thanks
Pat Patteson
Molalla,Oregon
boat. I do not have plans but have a couple of questions.
Are the sides made of one piece, or a curved bottom piece and a top
straight second piece, I assume butt jointed to the lower curved one?
I have read that the Brick is to be made of 1/4 in ply.
Is the bottom also 1/4 inch?
I have read the story of building of all 3/8 and making a very heavy
boat, with diagrams on how to get it on top of a car.
If the sides are indeed two pieces, althogh I know it would make the
boat heavier, how about "Good" 3/8 ply for the bottom, and "Lapstake"
sides, with the bottom curved part of 3/8 and the upper part of 1/4
ply. Would make a very strong boat.
Leads to question two and maybe three. On straight ply lapstrake,
how does one get the end of the two piece to end up the same
thickness,
"Rabiting" the two near the end so they end up the same thickness,1/4
or3/8? and more difficult, if one put a 3/4x 1 1/4
piece between the two to give extra strenght, how does one get the
whole thing to taper to the same thickness of 3/8 or 1/4 at the stem
and stern so as not to have lumps and bump and the ends.
I've alway thought that 3/4 by 1 1/4' spacers would give light boat a
lot more strength by "fooling" it into thinking it is really 1 3/8'
stock at that point. See "drawing" on "Toad" file page as my attempt
to reference.
Makes for light weight , but very stiff and strong construction.
Thanks
Pat Patteson
Molalla,Oregon