Re: [bolger] Brick-Lapstrake two fer ?

The Brick is REAL simple for a detail of building one go to my article in
Duckworks at

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/dasbox/index.htm

I used 1/4 for the bow and stern transom, 11/32 for the sides and bottom.
The boat weights about 100 lbs and is very strong.

Michael Surface

>From:pateson@...
>Reply-To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Brick-Lapstrake two fer ?
>Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 05:54:12 -0000
>
>I have been following the Brick thread. Looks like a nice little
>boat. I do not have plans but have a couple of questions.
>Are the sides made of one piece, or a curved bottom piece and a top
>straight second piece, I assume butt jointed to the lower curved one?
>I have read that the Brick is to be made of 1/4 in ply.
>Is the bottom also 1/4 inch?
>I have read the story of building of all 3/8 and making a very heavy
>boat, with diagrams on how to get it on top of a car.
>If the sides are indeed two pieces, althogh I know it would make the
>boat heavier, how about "Good" 3/8 ply for the bottom, and "Lapstake"
>sides, with the bottom curved part of 3/8 and the upper part of 1/4
>ply. Would make a very strong boat.
>Leads to question two and maybe three. On straight ply lapstrake,
>how does one get the end of the two piece to end up the same
>thickness,
>"Rabiting" the two near the end so they end up the same thickness,1/4
>or3/8? and more difficult, if one put a 3/4x 1 1/4
>piece between the two to give extra strenght, how does one get the
>whole thing to taper to the same thickness of 3/8 or 1/4 at the stem
>and stern so as not to have lumps and bump and the ends.
>I've alway thought that 3/4 by 1 1/4' spacers would give light boat a
>lot more strength by "fooling" it into thinking it is really 1 3/8'
>stock at that point. See "drawing" on "Toad" file page as my attempt
>to reference.
>Makes for light weight , but very stiff and strong construction.
>
>Thanks
>Pat Patteson
>Molalla,Oregon
>

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