Re: Putting the scooner on a float

I'd leave out the copper pipe. Just drilll the hole and round off
the sharp edges it with a rasp or router with 3/8 RO Bit. Then goop
the heck out of it with epoxy and paint. The more you use it, the
smoother it gets. Fewer parts, less to go wrong. Then learn
some "cool" knot to attach it. I did the something similar on my
Bolger rowing dory, for and aft hole through the stem large enough
for 1/4' rope and attached to a 15 # Rubber coated "Mushroom'
anchor. Use it for fishing, and will hold me in about any current.
Bow has enough of an overhang that when pulled up tight, doesn't
bounce around much and is clear of the water. I can just tie it off
to a cleat, next to rowing thwart up or down. Can set in inside the
boat when not in use. Have a "Bungy" hinged and "locked" hatch at
bow and stern.

I think I would like a 12 volt automatic bilge pump with deep cycle
battery and "Solar' battery "Trickle" charger. (Pretty cheap now)
just in case you have a few "Sprinles" while you're away and don't
get back to the boat for a week or so. Cheap inusrance. They make
some very nice bronze drains, but I'm pretty partial to pvc mysesf.
Used the same thing in the bottom of my 21 ' "Glass" boat when I took
out the old "Marine toilet".
Seems to work fine. Inside threade "coupler" would be fine. Just
make sure you rough up the PVC where it goes throught the hull
bottom (might even make some cuts around it to make sure the epoxy
has something to grab hold to), and again make a tight fit, and goop
the heck out of it with epoxy.

At least if it's attached to a float, and it sinks, you'll know where
it is. Right on the end of that line. Might leave a "fender" or
gallon platic milk jug with a line wrapped around it,long enough to
reach the bottom, attacheded to same hole, and strong enough to pull
up the boat if it did sink, that would just unwind itself as the boat
sank. Give you something to pull it back up with.
Probably never need it , but better than having to go diving to find
it. Usually I've found if I prepare for the worst, I'll never have
to use it. I always take a rain coat, even on sunny days, and it
seems to keep the rain away.

Have fun, and use your boat
Pat Patteson
Moalla, Oregon

ps
Tell us a story about how it works, and some of your time on the
water.

-- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:

> FBBB --
>
> Spring is springing and it's time to start thinking in earnest

about

> putting the LSME on a float.
>
> I'm thinking about boring a 1" hole low on the false stem, then
> bedding a short bit of copper tubing in the hole with epoxy/glass
> goop and using that as an attachment point. Does this seem like a
> good or bad idea?
>
> I'm also thinking of similiar sized drain holes cut in the forward
> part of the aft cockpit and the aft part of the forward cockpit. A
> threaded PVC endcap could be bedded and sealed with the

corresponding

> threaded plug. Has anyone tried anything like this? Did it work?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296

Here's another two bits...

I think copper would work out okay. After all, it makes up a big part of
bronze, which has been used on boats for literally thousands of years. (I'm
biased, though, I used a bronze pin and bushings in my centreboard.)

But...my concern would be the amount of force the part of the stem forward
of the hole will have to stand up to -- this is the narrowest part of the
stem, and since (I assume) the hole is outboard of the hull, there can't be
a whole (no pun intended) lot of wood left to take the pull. Maybe if it's
oak, but a softwood might not have the strength for the job.

On the other hand, I'm comparing it to the ring I set in the stem to haul my
boat on to the trailer -- perhaps that's not comparing apples to apples?
For what it's worth, I drilled right through the stem, and put a s/s eyebolt
in, bedded in epoxy, with the biggest washer I could find under the nut. I
had some six inches, or more, thickness of wood to take the strain that way.
Probably overkill for a mooring line, but you'd never lose sleep over it.

Jamie Orr

PS Good luck with the dagger board. If its twisted, you've probably got
nothing to lose!

-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan [mailto:david@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 4:12 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Putting the scooner on a float

>> I'm thinking about boring a 1" hole low on the false stem, then
>> bedding a short bit of copper tubing in the hole with epoxy/glass
>> goop and using that as an attachment point.
>
>T'were it I, which it 'tain't, I would scour my local h'ware store
>looking for a galvanized something or other to use in place of
>copper. Copper is a very reactive metal, not to be counted on in a
>seawater environment.
>
>In the times of real schooners and men with iron hands, the fitting
>would have been galvanized iron.

I was thinking copper because it's softer and I thought I could get a
smoother, less chafe prone finish on it. The idea was that a line
from the float would be passed through the hole and tied off. I'm
thinking iron would cut the line real quick.

Bolger draws the scooner with an big mooring cleat just forward of
the foremast, but I haven't a clue how he intended the line to run
from there.

I want the line low and centered. I had her tied off by the foremast,
and when the lake got up during a blow, she quartered into the wind
waves and steadily took water into the forward cockpit until she
sank. I think (hope) that tied off low and center she'd bob over the
waves a little better.

Ideas?

YIBB,

David

CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296

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01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349

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>> I'm thinking about boring a 1" hole low on the false stem, then
>> bedding a short bit of copper tubing in the hole with epoxy/glass
>> goop and using that as an attachment point.
>
>T'were it I, which it 'tain't, I would scour my local h'ware store
>looking for a galvanized something or other to use in place of
>copper. Copper is a very reactive metal, not to be counted on in a
>seawater environment.
>
>In the times of real schooners and men with iron hands, the fitting
>would have been galvanized iron.

> I'm thinking about boring a 1" hole low on the false stem, then
> bedding a short bit of copper tubing in the hole with epoxy/glass
> goop and using that as an attachment point.

T'were it I, which it 'tain't, I would scour my local h'ware store
looking for a galvanized something or other to use in place of
copper. Copper is a very reactive metal, not to be counted on in a
seawater environment.

In the times of real schooners and men with iron hands, the fitting
would have been galvanized iron.

Peter

FBBB --

Spring is springing and it's time to start thinking in earnest about
putting the LSME on a float.

I'm thinking about boring a 1" hole low on the false stem, then
bedding a short bit of copper tubing in the hole with epoxy/glass
goop and using that as an attachment point. Does this seem like a
good or bad idea?

I'm also thinking of similiar sized drain holes cut in the forward
part of the aft cockpit and the aft part of the forward cockpit. A
threaded PVC endcap could be bedded and sealed with the corresponding
threaded plug. Has anyone tried anything like this? Did it work?

YIBB,

David

CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296