Re: fixing warped plywood daggerboard
Guess I'm not that familiar with a Light Scooner daggerboars.
But as a furniture builder by trade, and always saying that the
difference between an amature and professional, is that a professional
knows how fo fix his screw ups. I do that a lot, an I'm usualy the
only one who knows I made a mistake. Sometimes, I'll even add a
little decoration to to the mistake to make the customer think I went
to extra effort on that particular part. But. Then, there's the
times, when you just have to say "Oh S(heck)" and throw it it in the
pile to be used for something else next time.
It sometimes wastes a lot more time and work and money to try to fix
something gone wrong, than it is to just do it again, and try not to
make the same mistake again.
If the board is not more that 3/4 an inch thick, and just plywood,
flat, and not a swing keel type, I would put it in my second case.
Just Build another one. Expence will be minimal, time will be about
the same, and you might have fun trying something new, and if you
can't get it to "Unbend", you're gonna have to replace it anyway.
Your chances of getting it to staighten out are slim.
I'd chuck it.
Don't know what the overall thickness is, but if it is 3/4 , or even
more, I came up with a faily simple way of making a very stong board,
stronger than just glueing mutiple pieces of ply together
to get the proper thichness, and will not warp or bend.
Assuming you have some extra glass tape and epoxy sitting around your
shop and some extra 1/4 plywood. Take two pieces of 1/4 ply and lay
them on top of each other. Then cut the two together, mayby 1/8 inch
wider than finishes board needs to be to finished shape. If you plan
to glass the whole thing, can be luan, fir, on anything "Cheap"
Remember to take into account the thickness of the outside glass, if
that is very criticle, then a cut a vertical spacer that when added
to the two 1/4" peices of ply will give the finished thichness.
1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4 1/4 + 1/2 + 1/4 = 1" 1/4 + 3/4 + 1/4 = 1 1/4"
1/4 + 1" + 1/4 = 1 1/2" (Plus thickness of "Glass")
Get the picture? Width of spacer not critcal (3/4' to make it simple)
Now, choose what spacer you need, and place it about 1/3 rd the way
back from the leading edge. Tack it on to one of the 1/4" pieces.
Apply epoxy to inside edges (about1/2") of 1/4" ply, clamp or screw
together, front and back of 1/4 plys bent around spacer. After epoxy
sets, (remove screws), sand front and back edges. Front roundish,
back sharper.
Then add plug in bottom (bondo probably ok here) and either tape
leading and trailing edge whole thing, with extra layer of tape
on forward end for extra protection.
Add, with epoxy, if you think needed, top piece, and you've got a new
board.
Probably more difficult to describe than it is to do, and pobably
as easy to build as piecing together several pieces of ply to make up
thickness, plus, has "cool foil" shape, altho probably not any
better than flat board, but remember you are not going to have to
try to "round the front edge, and "Taper" the trailing edge.
Extremly strong, and I'll bet you 25 cents that it won't ever warp.
Might have to add pieces to make it fit into rectangular hole, but
that's easy.
I make one for the leeboard on my "Elegant Punt" just as experiment,
and it is probably the strongest thing on the whole boat.
On small boats, dagger board shape is not important, but same
technique could be used on larger boats for proper NACA shape.
Good luck
Let met know what you do, and if I can be of any help.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
But as a furniture builder by trade, and always saying that the
difference between an amature and professional, is that a professional
knows how fo fix his screw ups. I do that a lot, an I'm usualy the
only one who knows I made a mistake. Sometimes, I'll even add a
little decoration to to the mistake to make the customer think I went
to extra effort on that particular part. But. Then, there's the
times, when you just have to say "Oh S(heck)" and throw it it in the
pile to be used for something else next time.
It sometimes wastes a lot more time and work and money to try to fix
something gone wrong, than it is to just do it again, and try not to
make the same mistake again.
If the board is not more that 3/4 an inch thick, and just plywood,
flat, and not a swing keel type, I would put it in my second case.
Just Build another one. Expence will be minimal, time will be about
the same, and you might have fun trying something new, and if you
can't get it to "Unbend", you're gonna have to replace it anyway.
Your chances of getting it to staighten out are slim.
I'd chuck it.
Don't know what the overall thickness is, but if it is 3/4 , or even
more, I came up with a faily simple way of making a very stong board,
stronger than just glueing mutiple pieces of ply together
to get the proper thichness, and will not warp or bend.
Assuming you have some extra glass tape and epoxy sitting around your
shop and some extra 1/4 plywood. Take two pieces of 1/4 ply and lay
them on top of each other. Then cut the two together, mayby 1/8 inch
wider than finishes board needs to be to finished shape. If you plan
to glass the whole thing, can be luan, fir, on anything "Cheap"
Remember to take into account the thickness of the outside glass, if
that is very criticle, then a cut a vertical spacer that when added
to the two 1/4" peices of ply will give the finished thichness.
1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4 1/4 + 1/2 + 1/4 = 1" 1/4 + 3/4 + 1/4 = 1 1/4"
1/4 + 1" + 1/4 = 1 1/2" (Plus thickness of "Glass")
Get the picture? Width of spacer not critcal (3/4' to make it simple)
Now, choose what spacer you need, and place it about 1/3 rd the way
back from the leading edge. Tack it on to one of the 1/4" pieces.
Apply epoxy to inside edges (about1/2") of 1/4" ply, clamp or screw
together, front and back of 1/4 plys bent around spacer. After epoxy
sets, (remove screws), sand front and back edges. Front roundish,
back sharper.
Then add plug in bottom (bondo probably ok here) and either tape
leading and trailing edge whole thing, with extra layer of tape
on forward end for extra protection.
Add, with epoxy, if you think needed, top piece, and you've got a new
board.
Probably more difficult to describe than it is to do, and pobably
as easy to build as piecing together several pieces of ply to make up
thickness, plus, has "cool foil" shape, altho probably not any
better than flat board, but remember you are not going to have to
try to "round the front edge, and "Taper" the trailing edge.
Extremly strong, and I'll bet you 25 cents that it won't ever warp.
Might have to add pieces to make it fit into rectangular hole, but
that's easy.
I make one for the leeboard on my "Elegant Punt" just as experiment,
and it is probably the strongest thing on the whole boat.
On small boats, dagger board shape is not important, but same
technique could be used on larger boats for proper NACA shape.
Good luck
Let met know what you do, and if I can be of any help.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> The harsh winter's put a nasty twist in the daggerboard for the
LSME.
> I'm thinking a soak in a hot tub, then laying it on a flat floor
and
> weighting it. Anyone with any experience want to weigh in before I
> ruin it?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
Is the soaking going to penetrate whatever you have finished you
daggerboard? You will want it to dry evenly. If it is flat on the
floor the exposed part will dry out and when you lift it up it may
take another warp from the floor side drying. You might rig it to dry
so that most of it is exposed. Maybe you should even give it a little
twist in the opposite direction.
daggerboard? You will want it to dry evenly. If it is flat on the
floor the exposed part will dry out and when you lift it up it may
take another warp from the floor side drying. You might rig it to dry
so that most of it is exposed. Maybe you should even give it a little
twist in the opposite direction.
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> The harsh winter's put a nasty twist in the daggerboard for the
LSME.
> I'm thinking a soak in a hot tub, then laying it on a flat floor and
> weighting it. Anyone with any experience want to weigh in before I
> ruin it?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
FBBB --
The harsh winter's put a nasty twist in the daggerboard for the LSME.
I'm thinking a soak in a hot tub, then laying it on a flat floor and
weighting it. Anyone with any experience want to weigh in before I
ruin it?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
The harsh winter's put a nasty twist in the daggerboard for the LSME.
I'm thinking a soak in a hot tub, then laying it on a flat floor and
weighting it. Anyone with any experience want to weigh in before I
ruin it?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296