OMT: 1/4 " Plywood lapstrake with 3/4 "Spacer"
I left out one "feature" I treated the spacer as if it were a rectangular
strip; it obviously will not be. Each plank will have a rolling bevel along
its length. These angles will be different (at a given point along the length
of the plank) on the two adjacent planks. the spacer will be square to the
lower board, but will hove an angle on its outside face that matches the
projected angle of the plank lying above it. The gains will hav to be on that
angle. I believe I would attach the plank and strip as told in the previous
story, then use a smooth plane and a bullnose plane to "touch up" the angle
and gain after the glue dries. You can pick up the angle *almost* correctly
by laying a wooden spile (whose length is cut to the width of the upper
plank) from the putative location of the upper edge of the upper plank to the
installed spacer surface. Now take a chisel and work a short section down to
the correct angle. do this every foot or so along the plank and blend those
little chisel cuts with the smooth plane. Continue the rolling bevel into the
gain, finishing with the bullnose (best) or chisel.
This is a fiddly construction method, to be avoided by wise boatbuilders
unless you absolutely *must have* the effect that it produces. If so, be
prepared for the work it entails.
Cheers/Carron
strip; it obviously will not be. Each plank will have a rolling bevel along
its length. These angles will be different (at a given point along the length
of the plank) on the two adjacent planks. the spacer will be square to the
lower board, but will hove an angle on its outside face that matches the
projected angle of the plank lying above it. The gains will hav to be on that
angle. I believe I would attach the plank and strip as told in the previous
story, then use a smooth plane and a bullnose plane to "touch up" the angle
and gain after the glue dries. You can pick up the angle *almost* correctly
by laying a wooden spile (whose length is cut to the width of the upper
plank) from the putative location of the upper edge of the upper plank to the
installed spacer surface. Now take a chisel and work a short section down to
the correct angle. do this every foot or so along the plank and blend those
little chisel cuts with the smooth plane. Continue the rolling bevel into the
gain, finishing with the bullnose (best) or chisel.
This is a fiddly construction method, to be avoided by wise boatbuilders
unless you absolutely *must have* the effect that it produces. If so, be
prepared for the work it entails.
Cheers/Carron