Yellow pine was Re: Big Wood Masts
Where I live in the south, Southern Yellow Pine is routinely used in
place of hardwoods for flooring...old Long Leaf Pine is harder than
oak. The high level intercellular sap content causes this as it
turns to resin.
place of hardwoods for flooring...old Long Leaf Pine is harder than
oak. The high level intercellular sap content causes this as it
turns to resin.
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> The bloody stuff was harder than the hammers of hades, I had to
drill
> every nail hole. Bummer!
> Stan, Snow Goose / Diving Duck.
>
> And I bet that barn is still there ;-)
>
> Southern Yellow Pine is actually a species group that is made up of
> primarily four trees: loblolly pine (Pinus taeda), long leaf pine
(Pinus
> palustris), shortleaf pine (Pinus echinata) and slash pine (Pinus
eliottii)
> Together they make up the commercial classification called Southern
Yellow
> Pine (SYP). There is some variation between these species as to
physical
> properties. You apparently got one of the harder ones, Stan.
>
> On the other hand, you might have bought Western Yellow Pine (Pinus
> ponderosa), but it does not have the same reputation for hardness.
>
> Chuck
The bloody stuff was harder than the hammers of hades, I had to drill
every nail hole. Bummer!
Stan, Snow Goose / Diving Duck.
And I bet that barn is still there ;-)
Southern Yellow Pine is actually a species group that is made up of
primarily four trees: loblolly pine (Pinus taeda), long leaf pine (Pinus
palustris), shortleaf pine (Pinus echinata) and slash pine (Pinus eliottii)
Together they make up the commercial classification called Southern Yellow
Pine (SYP). There is some variation between these species as to physical
properties. You apparently got one of the harder ones, Stan.
On the other hand, you might have bought Western Yellow Pine (Pinus
ponderosa), but it does not have the same reputation for hardness.
Chuck
every nail hole. Bummer!
Stan, Snow Goose / Diving Duck.
And I bet that barn is still there ;-)
Southern Yellow Pine is actually a species group that is made up of
primarily four trees: loblolly pine (Pinus taeda), long leaf pine (Pinus
palustris), shortleaf pine (Pinus echinata) and slash pine (Pinus eliottii)
Together they make up the commercial classification called Southern Yellow
Pine (SYP). There is some variation between these species as to physical
properties. You apparently got one of the harder ones, Stan.
On the other hand, you might have bought Western Yellow Pine (Pinus
ponderosa), but it does not have the same reputation for hardness.
Chuck
Hi All,
Some years ago, I thought I had made the deal of a lifetime. I was
building a barn at the time, and I bought a well piled truck load of
yellow pine. It was tongue and grove 2 X 8's that had been intended to
be rail road box car flooring.
The bloody stuff was harder than the hammers of hades, I had to drill
every nail hole. Bummer!
Stan, Snow Goose / Diving Duck.
Some years ago, I thought I had made the deal of a lifetime. I was
building a barn at the time, and I bought a well piled truck load of
yellow pine. It was tongue and grove 2 X 8's that had been intended to
be rail road box car flooring.
The bloody stuff was harder than the hammers of hades, I had to drill
every nail hole. Bummer!
Stan, Snow Goose / Diving Duck.
I built one of poplar which wanted to turn the boat over, but it will make a nice flag staff for the
deck or pier. Clyde
John Bell wrote:
deck or pier. Clyde
John Bell wrote:
> I built a yellow pine mast for my Windsprint. I would
> not do it again, either. It is too darn dense and
> heavy for spars, IMO. I've still got the mast if
> someone wants it to see for themselves.
>
> JB
>
>
> ---pongo19050@...wrote:
> > I've used a bit of yellow pine and found it to be
> > cheap, great
> > stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow
> > pine landscaping
> > ties for decking at:
> >
> >http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
> >
> > I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine
> > landscaping ties at
> > the local Home Depot. These are from the center of
> > the tree and are
> > easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was
> > clearish, straight-
> > grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from
> > the pressure
> > treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks
> > to deck my
> > Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would
> > make great staves
> > for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
> >
> > I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my
> > tiller out of the
> > stuff.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Andy Farquhar
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> > > But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl
> > Stambaugh, I will
> > > use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap
> > and plentiful.
> > > Can even get whole trees for any size mast a
> > homebuilder (most
> > > of them anyway) would ever care to build.
> > >
> > > In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw
> > mill that
> > > picks out the biggest and best trees and sends
> > them to the pressure
> > > treaters to be used for power poles. A logger
> > friend I met said
> > > they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick
> > out the tree --
> > > or will quarter saw it for you (would make great
> > staves). Yellow
> > > (short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a
> > bit stronger than
> > > d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the
> > Cheseapeake sharpie
> > > fishermen used for their masts -- there were some
> > economic
> > > incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group)
> > built a nice ~20-22'
> > > mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20'
> > Michalak design.
> > >
> > > I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite
> > Bond II. We will
> > > see how the combination lasts after a few seasons.
> > I noticed the
> > > that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using
> > yellow pine
> > > exclusively!
> > >
> > > Phil Lea
> > > Russellville, Arkansas
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> > > > Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a
> > bunch of really nice
> > > red spruce.
> > > > It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood,
> > cellos, harpsichords,
> > > etc.
> > > There's
> > > > one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's
> > also a lot of
> > Hemlock,
> > > but I
> > > > haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect
> > that it might not
> > > have the
> > > > tensile strength required for high stresses.
> > Probably perfectly
> > > good
> > > for
> > > > small boats.
> > > >
> > > > Carron
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts
> > off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
> > 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I would never make a solid mast for a small boat with yellow pine -
it is very heavy. Quartersawn it has such nice, straight grain and
seems very strong and may make good staves for a hollow mast.
It does make great decking when quartersawn.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
it is very heavy. Quartersawn it has such nice, straight grain and
seems very strong and may make good staves for a hollow mast.
It does make great decking when quartersawn.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
Carron,
No, it was not all due to the increase in weight, but it put our
total load over what our allotment was. We had reserved space on the
flights, and the weight was more than what we had originally
purchased. The string basses were 20 lbs more than anticipated, the
cellos were 10 lbs more.
The moral of the story is to know the weight of the material you
are working with. I kept thinking about how extra weight on the deck
of Micro may change the balance (CG) of the hull.
David Jost
No, it was not all due to the increase in weight, but it put our
total load over what our allotment was. We had reserved space on the
flights, and the weight was more than what we had originally
purchased. The string basses were 20 lbs more than anticipated, the
cellos were 10 lbs more.
The moral of the story is to know the weight of the material you
are working with. I kept thinking about how extra weight on the deck
of Micro may change the balance (CG) of the hull.
David Jost
> was all that fee for just the increase in weight of the cases? It amounts to
> nearly $700/case. Let's see, maybe they were 10 lbs heavier each? $70/lb for
> overage. WOW!!!!
>
> Cheers/carron
In a message dated 04/26/2001 7:<BR37:<BR00 PM
Eastern Daylight ,djost@...writes:
was all that fee for just the increase in weight of the cases? It amounts to
nearly $700/case. Let's see, maybe they were 10 lbs heavier each? $70/lb for
overage. WOW!!!!
Cheers/carron
Eastern Daylight ,djost@...writes:
> We had to pay $2400 in extra baggage fees due to theDAvid,
> increase in estimated weight. Ouch. . .
was all that fee for just the increase in weight of the cases? It amounts to
nearly $700/case. Let's see, maybe they were 10 lbs heavier each? $70/lb for
overage. WOW!!!!
Cheers/carron
Do not underestimate the weight increase with Yellow Pine. I just
built 2 string bass, and 7 cello crates for our orchestra trip to
Europe. We used AC Yellow Pine for the ply, not really thinking that
there was a major difference in weight of the boxes. Luftanza told
us otherwise. We had to pay $2400 in extra baggage fees due to the
increase in estimated weight. Ouch. . .
It was nice stuff and survived almost too well. Next time I will
use AC fir.
David JOst
"almost past the jet lag"
built 2 string bass, and 7 cello crates for our orchestra trip to
Europe. We used AC Yellow Pine for the ply, not really thinking that
there was a major difference in weight of the boxes. Luftanza told
us otherwise. We had to pay $2400 in extra baggage fees due to the
increase in estimated weight. Ouch. . .
It was nice stuff and survived almost too well. Next time I will
use AC fir.
David JOst
"almost past the jet lag"
--- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> True. A yellow pine mast will be heavier and should be considered
> in the design. A small boat may not be the best place for a yellow
> pine mast. A stout gaff sloop would be less of a problem though.
>
> Phil
>
> --- In bolger@y..., John Bell <jmbell@m...> wrote:
> > I built a yellow pine mast for my Windsprint. I would
> > not do it again, either. It is too darn dense and
> > heavy for spars, IMO. I've still got the mast if
> > someone wants it to see for themselves.
> >
> > JB
> > --- pongo19050@y... wrote:
> > > I've used a bit of yellow pine and found it to be
> > > cheap, great
> > > stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow
> > > pine landscaping
> > > ties for decking at:
> > >
> > >http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
> > >
> > > I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine
> > > landscaping ties at
> > > the local Home Depot. These are from the center of
> > > the tree and are
> > > easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was
> > > clearish, straight-
> > > grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from
> > > the pressure
> > > treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks
> > > to deck my
> > > Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would
> > > make great staves
> > > for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
> > >
> > > I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my
> > > tiller out of the
> > > stuff.
> > >
> > > Regards
> > >
> > > Andy Farquhar
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> > > > But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl
> > > Stambaugh, I will
> > > > use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap
> > > and plentiful.
> > > > Can even get whole trees for any size mast a
> > > homebuilder (most
> > > > of them anyway) would ever care to build.
> > > >
> > > > In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw
> > > mill that
> > > > picks out the biggest and best trees and sends
> > > them to the pressure
> > > > treaters to be used for power poles. A logger
> > > friend I met said
> > > > they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick
> > > out the tree --
> > > > or will quarter saw it for you (would make great
> > > staves). Yellow
> > > > (short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a
> > > bit stronger than
> > > > d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the
> > > Cheseapeake sharpie
> > > > fishermen used for their masts -- there were some
> > > economic
> > > > incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group)
> > > built a nice ~20-22'
> > > > mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20'
> > > Michalak design.
> > > >
> > > > I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite
> > > Bond II. We will
> > > > see how the combination lasts after a few seasons.
> > > I noticed the
> > > > that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using
> > > yellow pine
> > > > exclusively!
> > > >
> > > > Phil Lea
> > > > Russellville, Arkansas
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> > > > > Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a
> > > bunch of really nice
> > > > red spruce.
> > > > > It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood,
> > > cellos, harpsichords,
> > > > etc.
> > > > There's
> > > > > one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's
> > > also a lot of
> > > Hemlock,
> > > > but I
> > > > > haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect
> > > that it might not
> > > > have the
> > > > > tensile strength required for high stresses.
> > > Probably perfectly
> > > > good
> > > > for
> > > > > small boats.
> > > > >
> > > > > Carron
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > > - no flogging dead horses
> > > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts
> > > off-list.
> > > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
> > > 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> >http://auctions.yahoo.com/
True. A yellow pine mast will be heavier and should be considered
in the design. A small boat may not be the best place for a yellow
pine mast. A stout gaff sloop would be less of a problem though.
Phil
in the design. A small boat may not be the best place for a yellow
pine mast. A stout gaff sloop would be less of a problem though.
Phil
--- In bolger@y..., John Bell <jmbell@m...> wrote:
> I built a yellow pine mast for my Windsprint. I would
> not do it again, either. It is too darn dense and
> heavy for spars, IMO. I've still got the mast if
> someone wants it to see for themselves.
>
> JB
> --- pongo19050@y... wrote:
> > I've used a bit of yellow pine and found it to be
> > cheap, great
> > stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow
> > pine landscaping
> > ties for decking at:
> >
> >http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
> >
> > I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine
> > landscaping ties at
> > the local Home Depot. These are from the center of
> > the tree and are
> > easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was
> > clearish, straight-
> > grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from
> > the pressure
> > treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks
> > to deck my
> > Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would
> > make great staves
> > for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
> >
> > I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my
> > tiller out of the
> > stuff.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Andy Farquhar
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> > > But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl
> > Stambaugh, I will
> > > use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap
> > and plentiful.
> > > Can even get whole trees for any size mast a
> > homebuilder (most
> > > of them anyway) would ever care to build.
> > >
> > > In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw
> > mill that
> > > picks out the biggest and best trees and sends
> > them to the pressure
> > > treaters to be used for power poles. A logger
> > friend I met said
> > > they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick
> > out the tree --
> > > or will quarter saw it for you (would make great
> > staves). Yellow
> > > (short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a
> > bit stronger than
> > > d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the
> > Cheseapeake sharpie
> > > fishermen used for their masts -- there were some
> > economic
> > > incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group)
> > built a nice ~20-22'
> > > mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20'
> > Michalak design.
> > >
> > > I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite
> > Bond II. We will
> > > see how the combination lasts after a few seasons.
> > I noticed the
> > > that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using
> > yellow pine
> > > exclusively!
> > >
> > > Phil Lea
> > > Russellville, Arkansas
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> > > > Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a
> > bunch of really nice
> > > red spruce.
> > > > It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood,
> > cellos, harpsichords,
> > > etc.
> > > There's
> > > > one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's
> > also a lot of
> > Hemlock,
> > > but I
> > > > haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect
> > that it might not
> > > have the
> > > > tensile strength required for high stresses.
> > Probably perfectly
> > > good
> > > for
> > > > small boats.
> > > >
> > > > Carron
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts
> > off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
> > 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Molalla, Oregon is be about a 45 minute detour off I-5 North and
South.
And last time I looked Oregon is in there somewhere, and I-5 is the
main Highway North and South
Pat Patteson
"Free Masts"
Molalla, Oregon
South.
And last time I looked Oregon is in there somewhere, and I-5 is the
main Highway North and South
Pat Patteson
"Free Masts"
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@e..., tom <tkremer@s...> wrote:
> Well golly, I'll jump on the bandwagon too. I have a 14' 90 lb
rowing
> boat on Vancouver Island that needs to get to the SF Bay area.
Oregon
> must be somewhere in the middle there.
>
> Tom K
>
>
> >
> > Hey, let me get in on this road trip.. If that mast is coming
back anywhere
> > near TN, well... I've got a boat in Portland that needs to come
here. Maybe
> > the mast could piggybock on the boat and trailer. I *might* eve
be convinced
> > to pay part of the gas bill :-)
> >
> > Cheers/Carron
I built a yellow pine mast for my Windsprint. I would
not do it again, either. It is too darn dense and
heavy for spars, IMO. I've still got the mast if
someone wants it to see for themselves.
JB
---pongo19050@...wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
not do it again, either. It is too darn dense and
heavy for spars, IMO. I've still got the mast if
someone wants it to see for themselves.
JB
---pongo19050@...wrote:
> I've used a bit of yellow pine and found it to be__________________________________________________
> cheap, great
> stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow
> pine landscaping
> ties for decking at:
>
>http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
>
> I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine
> landscaping ties at
> the local Home Depot. These are from the center of
> the tree and are
> easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was
> clearish, straight-
> grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from
> the pressure
> treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks
> to deck my
> Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would
> make great staves
> for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
>
> I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my
> tiller out of the
> stuff.
>
> Regards
>
> Andy Farquhar
>
> --- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> > But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl
> Stambaugh, I will
> > use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap
> and plentiful.
> > Can even get whole trees for any size mast a
> homebuilder (most
> > of them anyway) would ever care to build.
> >
> > In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw
> mill that
> > picks out the biggest and best trees and sends
> them to the pressure
> > treaters to be used for power poles. A logger
> friend I met said
> > they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick
> out the tree --
> > or will quarter saw it for you (would make great
> staves). Yellow
> > (short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a
> bit stronger than
> > d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the
> Cheseapeake sharpie
> > fishermen used for their masts -- there were some
> economic
> > incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group)
> built a nice ~20-22'
> > mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20'
> Michalak design.
> >
> > I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite
> Bond II. We will
> > see how the combination lasts after a few seasons.
> I noticed the
> > that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using
> yellow pine
> > exclusively!
> >
> > Phil Lea
> > Russellville, Arkansas
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> > > Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a
> bunch of really nice
> > red spruce.
> > > It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood,
> cellos, harpsichords,
> > etc.
> > There's
> > > one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's
> also a lot of
> Hemlock,
> > but I
> > > haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect
> that it might not
> > have the
> > > tensile strength required for high stresses.
> Probably perfectly
> > good
> > for
> > > small boats.
> > >
> > > Carron
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts
> off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
> 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
I've used a bit of yellow pine and found it to be cheap, great
stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow pine landscaping
ties for decking at:
http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine landscaping ties at
the local Home Depot. These are from the center of the tree and are
easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was clearish, straight-
grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from the pressure
treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks to deck my
Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would make great staves
for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my tiller out of the
stuff.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
stuff. David Goodchild has a site on using yellow pine landscaping
ties for decking at:
http://catalog.com/bobpone/LaidDeck.htm
I followed his plan and bought some yellow pine landscaping ties at
the local Home Depot. These are from the center of the tree and are
easy to quartersaw. The resulting planking was clearish, straight-
grained stuff. I did have to treat the sawdust from the pressure
treated ties as hazardous waste. I used the planks to deck my
Oldshoe seats and it looks great. The planks would make great staves
for a birdsmouth spar if scarfed to length.
I think that I'll follow Phil's lead and make my tiller out of the
stuff.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
--- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl Stambaugh, I will
> use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap and plentiful.
> Can even get whole trees for any size mast a homebuilder (most
> of them anyway) would ever care to build.
>
> In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw mill that
> picks out the biggest and best trees and sends them to the pressure
> treaters to be used for power poles. A logger friend I met said
> they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick out the tree --
> or will quarter saw it for you (would make great staves). Yellow
> (short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a bit stronger than
> d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the Cheseapeake sharpie
> fishermen used for their masts -- there were some economic
> incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group) built a nice ~20-22'
> mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20' Michalak design.
>
> I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite Bond II. We will
> see how the combination lasts after a few seasons. I noticed the
> that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using yellow pine
> exclusively!
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
> --- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> > Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a bunch of really nice
> red spruce.
> > It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood, cellos, harpsichords,
> etc.
> There's
> > one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's also a lot of
Hemlock,
> but I
> > haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect that it might not
> have the
> > tensile strength required for high stresses. Probably perfectly
> good
> for
> > small boats.
> >
> > Carron
Well golly, I'll jump on the bandwagon too. I have a 14' 90 lb rowing
boat on Vancouver Island that needs to get to the SF Bay area. Oregon
must be somewhere in the middle there.
Tom K
boat on Vancouver Island that needs to get to the SF Bay area. Oregon
must be somewhere in the middle there.
Tom K
>
> Hey, let me get in on this road trip.. If that mast is coming back anywhere
> near TN, well... I've got a boat in Portland that needs to come here. Maybe
> the mast could piggybock on the boat and trailer. I *might* eve be convinced
> to pay part of the gas bill :-)
>
> Cheers/Carron
> In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast?Verry slloowly. It take a long time to grow a tree
that tall;-)
Roger
I logged in the Great Sahara forest.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
I languished over cutting into a 2x12x24 construction grade dougie
fir so that I could make a good mast out the best parts. I had
bought three of the planks and brought them home on the top of the
'76 Ford pickup (sheet metal very thick). You don't find any good
d.f. in Arkansas except in hobby sizes. My mast turned out very well
indeed.
But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl Stambaugh, I will
use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap and plentiful.
Can even get whole trees for any size mast a homebuilder (most
of them anyway) would ever care to build.
In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw mill that
picks out the biggest and best trees and sends them to the pressure
treaters to be used for power poles. A logger friend I met said
they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick out the tree --
or will quarter saw it for you (would make great staves). Yellow
(short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a bit stronger than
d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the Cheseapeake sharpie
fishermen used for their masts -- there were some economic
incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group) built a nice ~20-22'
mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20' Michalak design.
I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite Bond II. We will
see how the combination lasts after a few seasons. I noticed the
that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using yellow pine
exclusively!
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
fir so that I could make a good mast out the best parts. I had
bought three of the planks and brought them home on the top of the
'76 Ford pickup (sheet metal very thick). You don't find any good
d.f. in Arkansas except in hobby sizes. My mast turned out very well
indeed.
But after reading Buehler and talking to Karl Stambaugh, I will
use our local clear yellow pine that is very cheap and plentiful.
Can even get whole trees for any size mast a homebuilder (most
of them anyway) would ever care to build.
In Yell county south of me, there is a small saw mill that
picks out the biggest and best trees and sends them to the pressure
treaters to be used for power poles. A logger friend I met said
they'll take you out to the woods and let you pick out the tree --
or will quarter saw it for you (would make great staves). Yellow
(short leaf) is a little heavier, stiffer and a bit stronger than
d.fir. Karl said yellow pine is what the Cheseapeake sharpie
fishermen used for their masts -- there were some economic
incentives. Richard Spelling (of this group) built a nice ~20-22'
mast from yellow pine from staves for his 20' Michalak design.
I made my tiller from yellow pine, glued with Tite Bond II. We will
see how the combination lasts after a few seasons. I noticed the
that our friend in Ohio building JEZEBEL is using yellow pine
exclusively!
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
--- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a bunch of really nice
red spruce.
> It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood, cellos, harpsichords,
etc.
There's
> one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's also a lot of Hemlock,
but I
> haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect that it might not
have the
> tensile strength required for high stresses. Probably perfectly
good
for
> small boats.
>
> Carron
Hemlock is good for tanning, not for boats. Most of the virgin stands
of hemlock in the Catskills were cut down, stripped of their
tannin-rich bark, and left to rot over a century ago. The stuff David
Ryan saw around Lake Placid was either on private land and
unavailable, or on state land and unavailable. There's a good chance
it was hemlock, anyway.
There are planted stands of red pine, fine stuff for grown spars, up
here, but most of it is on NYC reservoir property. I do have a few
fifty to sixty foot trees on my woodlot, very straight and mostly
clear of branches, but I wouldn't want to drive down the New York
Thruway and the LIE with one perched atop a Civic. Of course, if you
could *float* it down the Hudson...
porky
of hemlock in the Catskills were cut down, stripped of their
tannin-rich bark, and left to rot over a century ago. The stuff David
Ryan saw around Lake Placid was either on private land and
unavailable, or on state land and unavailable. There's a good chance
it was hemlock, anyway.
There are planted stands of red pine, fine stuff for grown spars, up
here, but most of it is on NYC reservoir property. I do have a few
fifty to sixty foot trees on my woodlot, very straight and mostly
clear of branches, but I wouldn't want to drive down the New York
Thruway and the LIE with one perched atop a Civic. Of course, if you
could *float* it down the Hudson...
porky
--- In bolger@y..., StepHydro@a... wrote:
> Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a bunch of really nice
red spruce.
> It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood, cellos, harpsichords, etc.
There's
> one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's also a lot of Hemlock,
but I
> haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect that it might not
have the
> tensile strength required for high stresses. Probably perfectly good
for
> small boats.
>
> Carron
Here in the Southern Appalachians there is a bunch of really nice red spruce.
It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood, cellos, harpsichords, etc. There's
one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's also a lot of Hemlock, but I
haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect that it might not have the
tensile strength required for high stresses. Probably perfectly good for
small boats.
Carron
It is cut spuriously for soundboard wood, cellos, harpsichords, etc. There's
one in my front yard maybe 50' tall. There's also a lot of Hemlock, but I
haven't looked at that wood's figures, I expect that it might not have the
tensile strength required for high stresses. Probably perfectly good for
small boats.
Carron
For those on the West Coast, Edensaw lumber, in Port Townsend, $7.00 Ft. for clear, mast grade
spruce. They have lots of other stuff, and are real nice to deal with.
What I would do on the East coast is find somebody who has a bandsaw mill and will cut for vertical
grain. There has to be conifers around that would be suitable for masts.
I had a local mill cut for me here at $1.50 a ft for spruce, green. Some of it is junk some of it
gorgeous. All of it requires time. When I start to use this batch, I will get some more green.
I regard my wood stack somewhat like Midas must have felt about his Gold. I go out and pet it, and
dream about the masts, booms, and maybe airplanes that will come from it.
HJ
David Ryan wrote:
_ _ _ _ _
% Harrywelshman@...
spruce. They have lots of other stuff, and are real nice to deal with.
What I would do on the East coast is find somebody who has a bandsaw mill and will cut for vertical
grain. There has to be conifers around that would be suitable for masts.
I had a local mill cut for me here at $1.50 a ft for spruce, green. Some of it is junk some of it
gorgeous. All of it requires time. When I start to use this batch, I will get some more green.
I regard my wood stack somewhat like Midas must have felt about his Gold. I go out and pet it, and
dream about the masts, booms, and maybe airplanes that will come from it.
HJ
David Ryan wrote:
> FBBB ----
>
> As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
> collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in on the
> "Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on, it's
> too late. On to Siberia.
>
> In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
> enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs, shearclamps,
> gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
> bunch of sticks to make the masts.
>
> I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No way.
>
> I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might be a
> good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not totally
> garbage) sticks.
>
> Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
_ _ _ _ _
% Harrywelshman@...
Hey, let me get in on this road trip.. If that mast is coming back anywhere
near TN, well... I've got a boat in Portland that needs to come here. Maybe
the mast could piggybock on the boat and trailer. I *might* eve be convinced
to pay part of the gas bill :-)
Cheers/Carron
near TN, well... I've got a boat in Portland that needs to come here. Maybe
the mast could piggybock on the boat and trailer. I *might* eve be convinced
to pay part of the gas bill :-)
Cheers/Carron
How long is it. Check with DMV and see what overhangs can be.
I got busted once for having 18' boards in the back of my pickup.
Pulled over by police that didn't like 10' sticking out the back,
but did not get a ticket. He just stood there while I put them on
top a of my camper. Everything OK then.
Depending on the total lenght, you might be able to get by with just
flags. Again check with the athorities to see what might be legal.
but if it is legal somehow, we could just put it on top, and go for
it.
Tell me what you need, lenght, top diameter, bottom diameter, and I
can go out and look to see if I have what you need befor you do any
checking. If it works, your are surely welcome.
Where the heck do you live. Might not be worth the drive, unless you
are looking for a "Roadtrip" vacation. Might do "Vacation" befor
comming here so you don't have to lug that thing around everywhere.
We live and work here, so am aroung most of the time.
Might need some sort of roof rack. but I have a wood shop, so if we
can find two stong places (tough on a civic) with a little foam might
be able to make it work.
Give me an email at below and maybe we can figure it out.
I used to carry a Hobie 14 on top of a 72 Toyota. Looked pretty
funny, but worked. Bought the boat band new, but couldn't afford the
trailer. Have carried some pretty stange things on top of small cars.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
pateson@...
I got busted once for having 18' boards in the back of my pickup.
Pulled over by police that didn't like 10' sticking out the back,
but did not get a ticket. He just stood there while I put them on
top a of my camper. Everything OK then.
Depending on the total lenght, you might be able to get by with just
flags. Again check with the athorities to see what might be legal.
but if it is legal somehow, we could just put it on top, and go for
it.
Tell me what you need, lenght, top diameter, bottom diameter, and I
can go out and look to see if I have what you need befor you do any
checking. If it works, your are surely welcome.
Where the heck do you live. Might not be worth the drive, unless you
are looking for a "Roadtrip" vacation. Might do "Vacation" befor
comming here so you don't have to lug that thing around everywhere.
We live and work here, so am aroung most of the time.
Might need some sort of roof rack. but I have a wood shop, so if we
can find two stong places (tough on a civic) with a little foam might
be able to make it work.
Give me an email at below and maybe we can figure it out.
I used to carry a Hobie 14 on top of a 72 Toyota. Looked pretty
funny, but worked. Bought the boat band new, but couldn't afford the
trailer. Have carried some pretty stange things on top of small cars.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
pateson@...
--- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> Pat --
>
> Right in line with more good advice from Beuhler. To paraphrase:
>
> "If you don't live somewhere where you can cut your own mast from a
> tree, build your boat, motor somewhere that has tree and cut your
> masts there."
>
> We were up around Lake Placid this Winter and I kept notice these
> tight packed stands of some sort of conifer. Very straight, no
> branches till forty or fifty feet of the ground.
>
> But how to get them home? (I drive a civic.)
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> >If you want a solid doug fir mast, I'm looking at it out my window
> >right now. I live in Molalla, Oregon about 30 miles SE of
Portland.
> >If you want one, come out and take you pick. For free. (Really)
> >Severaly hundred, assorted sizes. Some even Herreshoff S boat
curved
> >mast type. You cut, I've got the saw, you haul. All I ask is a
ride
> >on your boat when you get it in the water.
> >Anybody else is welcome to the same offer.
> >Anything over 16" at the base, might have to negotiate a price, but
> >lots of small stuff for free.
> >Spring is the time, with the sap running the bark comes off easy.
> >
> >Pat Patteson
> >Molalla, Oregon
> >pateson@c...
> >
> >--- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> >> FBBB --
> >>
> >> As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
> >> collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in
on
> >the
> >> "Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on,
it's
> >> too late. On to Siberia.
> >>
> >> In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
> >> enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs,
shearclamps,
> >> gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
> >> bunch of sticks to make the masts.
> >>
> >> I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No
way.
> >>
> >> I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might
be a
> >> good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not
totally
> >> garbage) sticks.
> >>
> >> Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
> >>
> >> YIBB,
> >>
> >> David
> >>
> >>
> >> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> >> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> >> New York, New York 10001
> >>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> >> (212) 247-0296
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> >- no flogging dead horses
> >- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> >- stay on topic and punctuate
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> >MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>Go tohttp://www.carlsondesign.com(our moderator'sHey Greg, how rewriting this as a java applet so those of us not
>site) and download a little utility that will figure
>all that out for you.
comsumed by the Redmond hedgemony can use it too ;-)
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Pat --
Right in line with more good advice from Beuhler. To paraphrase:
"If you don't live somewhere where you can cut your own mast from a
tree, build your boat, motor somewhere that has tree and cut your
masts there."
We were up around Lake Placid this Winter and I kept notice these
tight packed stands of some sort of conifer. Very straight, no
branches till forty or fifty feet of the ground.
But how to get them home? (I drive a civic.)
YIBB,
David
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Right in line with more good advice from Beuhler. To paraphrase:
"If you don't live somewhere where you can cut your own mast from a
tree, build your boat, motor somewhere that has tree and cut your
masts there."
We were up around Lake Placid this Winter and I kept notice these
tight packed stands of some sort of conifer. Very straight, no
branches till forty or fifty feet of the ground.
But how to get them home? (I drive a civic.)
YIBB,
David
>If you want a solid doug fir mast, I'm looking at it out my windowCRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>right now. I live in Molalla, Oregon about 30 miles SE of Portland.
>If you want one, come out and take you pick. For free. (Really)
>Severaly hundred, assorted sizes. Some even Herreshoff S boat curved
>mast type. You cut, I've got the saw, you haul. All I ask is a ride
>on your boat when you get it in the water.
>Anybody else is welcome to the same offer.
>Anything over 16" at the base, might have to negotiate a price, but
>lots of small stuff for free.
>Spring is the time, with the sap running the bark comes off easy.
>
>Pat Patteson
>Molalla, Oregon
>pateson@...
>
>--- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
>> FBBB --
>>
>> As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
>> collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in on
>the
>> "Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on, it's
>> too late. On to Siberia.
>>
>> In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
>> enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs, shearclamps,
>> gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
>> bunch of sticks to make the masts.
>>
>> I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No way.
>>
>> I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might be a
>> good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not totally
>> garbage) sticks.
>>
>> Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
>>
>> YIBB,
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
>> New York, New York 10001
>>http://www.crumblingempire.com
>> (212) 247-0296
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
>- no flogging dead horses
>- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>- stay on topic and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
--- David Ryan <david@...> wrote:
site) and download a little utility that will figure
all that out for you.
JB
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>Go tohttp://www.carlsondesign.com(our moderator's
> >I used the clearest, cheapest 2x4s that I could
> find. I would not
> >worry too much about small, fast knots running
> straight through the
> >staves.
>
> I've got a copy of the issue of wooden boat with the
> bird's mouth
> article, but can't make sense of their ratio
> formula.
>
> If you rip your staves out of 2x and let the 1 5/8
> stand for your
> stave thickness, what would be the appropriate width
> of the stave and
> what would be the diameter of the spar?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
site) and download a little utility that will figure
all that out for you.
JB
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
If you want a solid doug fir mast, I'm looking at it out my window
right now. I live in Molalla, Oregon about 30 miles SE of Portland.
If you want one, come out and take you pick. For free. (Really)
Severaly hundred, assorted sizes. Some even Herreshoff S boat curved
mast type. You cut, I've got the saw, you haul. All I ask is a ride
on your boat when you get it in the water.
Anybody else is welcome to the same offer.
Anything over 16" at the base, might have to negotiate a price, but
lots of small stuff for free.
Spring is the time, with the sap running the bark comes off easy.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
pateson@...
right now. I live in Molalla, Oregon about 30 miles SE of Portland.
If you want one, come out and take you pick. For free. (Really)
Severaly hundred, assorted sizes. Some even Herreshoff S boat curved
mast type. You cut, I've got the saw, you haul. All I ask is a ride
on your boat when you get it in the water.
Anybody else is welcome to the same offer.
Anything over 16" at the base, might have to negotiate a price, but
lots of small stuff for free.
Spring is the time, with the sap running the bark comes off easy.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
pateson@...
--- In bolger@e..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
> collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in on
the
> "Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on, it's
> too late. On to Siberia.
>
> In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
> enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs, shearclamps,
> gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
> bunch of sticks to make the masts.
>
> I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No way.
>
> I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might be a
> good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not totally
> garbage) sticks.
>
> Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, New York 10001
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> (212) 247-0296
>I used the clearest, cheapest 2x4s that I could find. I would notI've got a copy of the issue of wooden boat with the bird's mouth
>worry too much about small, fast knots running straight through the
>staves.
article, but can't make sense of their ratio formula.
If you rip your staves out of 2x and let the 1 5/8 stand for your
stave thickness, what would be the appropriate width of the stave and
what would be the diameter of the spar?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
lot of lumber. You could easily use a shorter scarf as long as the
scarfs are staggered. With the scarfs staggered, you get the benefit
of the glue surface on the staves to either side of the scarf to hold
the thing together.
I used the clearest, cheapest 2x4s that I could find. I would not
worry too much about small, fast knots running straight through the
staves.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
> Also, what ratio did you use on the scarfs? It seams thatexcessively
> long scarf would chew up a lot of length.I used a 12:1 ratio but the staves were not wide so I didn't use a
lot of lumber. You could easily use a shorter scarf as long as the
scarfs are staggered. With the scarfs staggered, you get the benefit
of the glue surface on the staves to either side of the scarf to hold
the thing together.
I used the clearest, cheapest 2x4s that I could find. I would not
worry too much about small, fast knots running straight through the
staves.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
Andy --
stock, I'd end up with no mast at all . My thought in building up the
wall thickness was more to improve the good wood to crap wood ratio
in the mast. Clever idea, or recipe for disaster?
Also, what ratio did you use on the scarfs? It seams that excessively
long scarf would chew up a lot of length.
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
>Building up the wall thickness of a hollow spar is no substitute forFrom what I've see, if I restricted myself to clear sections of 2x
>a larger diameter.
stock, I'd end up with no mast at all . My thought in building up the
wall thickness was more to improve the good wood to crap wood ratio
in the mast. Clever idea, or recipe for disaster?
Also, what ratio did you use on the scarfs? It seams that excessively
long scarf would chew up a lot of length.
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
I recently broke a small birdsmouth mast, but my experience may be
tranferable to larger spars.
The 12' mast on my sailing canoe was originally a yard for a lanteen
sail. Because, at 1 1/2," it was too thin for a mast I wrapped it in
two layers of glass tape (6 oz.) set in epoxy, wrapped on the
opposite bias from each other. This made for a bendy mast for my 70
sq. foot lugsail.
Well, over the Easter weekend, sailing in Assateague Bay, I didn't
reef when I should have and the thing snapped. I found it
interesting just where is broke. It did not happen at any of the
scarfs - I scarfed the stock for the staves out of 8'lumber and
staggered the scarfs. It also didn't break at the mast partner or at
the end of the solid plug, which extended some 10" above the mast
partner. Rather, it broke straight through about 12' above where the
solid plug ended.
The lessons that I learned, other than to reef early and often (which
is a lesson I never seem to learn), was not to be afraid of using
scarfed stock for the staves. Also, I don't think that I will put a
solid plug in my next mast, except for the very ends. Finally, as in
bicycle frames, do not skimp on the diameter of a hollow spar.
Building up the wall thickness of a hollow spar is no substitute for
a larger diameter.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
tranferable to larger spars.
The 12' mast on my sailing canoe was originally a yard for a lanteen
sail. Because, at 1 1/2," it was too thin for a mast I wrapped it in
two layers of glass tape (6 oz.) set in epoxy, wrapped on the
opposite bias from each other. This made for a bendy mast for my 70
sq. foot lugsail.
Well, over the Easter weekend, sailing in Assateague Bay, I didn't
reef when I should have and the thing snapped. I found it
interesting just where is broke. It did not happen at any of the
scarfs - I scarfed the stock for the staves out of 8'lumber and
staggered the scarfs. It also didn't break at the mast partner or at
the end of the solid plug, which extended some 10" above the mast
partner. Rather, it broke straight through about 12' above where the
solid plug ended.
The lessons that I learned, other than to reef early and often (which
is a lesson I never seem to learn), was not to be afraid of using
scarfed stock for the staves. Also, I don't think that I will put a
solid plug in my next mast, except for the very ends. Finally, as in
bicycle frames, do not skimp on the diameter of a hollow spar.
Building up the wall thickness of a hollow spar is no substitute for
a larger diameter.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
FBBB --
As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in on the
"Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on, it's
too late. On to Siberia.
In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs, shearclamps,
gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
bunch of sticks to make the masts.
I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No way.
I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might be a
good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not totally
garbage) sticks.
Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
As someone who spent about 12 years walking the woods during the
collapse of the timber economy, I'm sorely tempted to weigh in on the
"Old Growth" thread. But no matter which side you weigh in on, it's
too late. On to Siberia.
In the meantime, how am I going to build a 32' mast? I was lucky
enough to find a clear 26' 2x10 to make my chinelogs, shearclamps,
gaffs and booms for the LSME. It took me months to find a proper
bunch of sticks to make the masts.
I've priced out clear fir. Just not a possibility -- no way. No way.
I've had a thought that "over-built" bird's mouth masts might be a
good way to put together masts from less than perfect (not totally
garbage) sticks.
Anyone who knows more about wood and glue want to weigh in?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296