Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
I've been using pull-scrapers to remove old finish on the hull of my
Tendercraft stripper skiff, Nandessa. The cloth beneath is probably
only about 2-oz. but I've found the scraper only grazes it, without
noticeable damage.
I'm not keen on chemical stripping and a pull-stripper alone had left
patches of old varnish on the (somewhat rough) oaken outer stem and
keel, skeg and rub strips. So today I used a heat gun along with the
pull-scraper and everything came off beautifully. I also tried this
technique on a spot where I'd been unable to sand or scrape old
varnish off the clear-coat (but deteriorated) epoxy. It almost worked
too well, the epoxy bubbling when it got too hot. But it almost makes
me think about heat-stripping the old epoxy right off the 'glass for
a nice, fresh base.
John in Victoria
Tendercraft stripper skiff, Nandessa. The cloth beneath is probably
only about 2-oz. but I've found the scraper only grazes it, without
noticeable damage.
I'm not keen on chemical stripping and a pull-stripper alone had left
patches of old varnish on the (somewhat rough) oaken outer stem and
keel, skeg and rub strips. So today I used a heat gun along with the
pull-scraper and everything came off beautifully. I also tried this
technique on a spot where I'd been unable to sand or scrape old
varnish off the clear-coat (but deteriorated) epoxy. It almost worked
too well, the epoxy bubbling when it got too hot. But it almost makes
me think about heat-stripping the old epoxy right off the 'glass for
a nice, fresh base.
John in Victoria
--- In bolger@y..., KF4call@a... wrote:
> In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of
scrapers...sharp
> blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them?
What happens
> if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
>
> Regards,
> Warren
Agree with Jim. I have used 100% acrylic satin house paint that can
get scuffed off, but having a few varnished pieces (mast, tiller,
etc.) sets off the whole boat -- scuffed paint doesn't look nearly so
bad. Spar varnish over clear coat epoxy (System 3) is a rugged
finish.
Phil Lea
get scuffed off, but having a few varnished pieces (mast, tiller,
etc.) sets off the whole boat -- scuffed paint doesn't look nearly so
bad. Spar varnish over clear coat epoxy (System 3) is a rugged
finish.
Phil Lea
--- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
> To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a high
quality
> finish to it, try adding a few pieces of bright finished mahogany,
oak, teak
> (really expensive) etc. The gunwales and inwales of my first Pointy
Skiff
> are done in Philipine Mahogany.
Hi, Warren:
I use scrapers a lot, not just on boats. They work very well on
epoxy/glass, with these caveats: Try to do the scraping on heavy areas
before the resin is completely cured, and use good steel, as they will get
dull fast enough when you hit glass.
Chuck
In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What
happens
if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
Regards,
Warren
I use scrapers a lot, not just on boats. They work very well on
epoxy/glass, with these caveats: Try to do the scraping on heavy areas
before the resin is completely cured, and use good steel, as they will get
dull fast enough when you hit glass.
Chuck
In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What
happens
if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
Regards,
Warren
The Fall 2000 "Epoxyworks", published by West, has an article titled
"Fiberglassing a Woodstrip Hull...Techniques for a Perfect Clear
Finish". Covers all sorts of things such as vaiations in technique depending
on the coat. They recommend different approaches for first, second and third
coats. The content is quite thorough and even goes into detail on the type
of rags to use. There isn't a lot here on finishing, but I imagine, if ou
can get it on smoother, the finishing should be less demanding.
In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What happens
if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
Regards,
Warren
In a message dated 5/4/2001 6:53:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jorr@...writes:
<< > -----Original Message-----
"Fiberglassing a Woodstrip Hull...Techniques for a Perfect Clear
Finish". Covers all sorts of things such as vaiations in technique depending
on the coat. They recommend different approaches for first, second and third
coats. The content is quite thorough and even goes into detail on the type
of rags to use. There isn't a lot here on finishing, but I imagine, if ou
can get it on smoother, the finishing should be less demanding.
In our discussion, I haven't heard much on the use of scrapers...sharp
blades held nearly vertical to the surface. Anyone using them? What happens
if you hit the glass cloth with a scraper?
Regards,
Warren
In a message dated 5/4/2001 6:53:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jorr@...writes:
<< > -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
> work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
> Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
> when you show
> it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
>
> Chuck
> >>
Paul,
I am sorry I can't meet you at Logan on Wed. My school
superintendent would frown on me skipping out on my teaching
responsibilies. (I have a concert that night anyway). I have been
using the cordless and it is either slow or fast with no inbetween. I
am going to try the variable speed electric and pick up an handful of
real cheap bits and just go through them. If they break they will
become part of the boat. what the heck . . .
David Jost
"avoiding work again"
I am sorry I can't meet you at Logan on Wed. My school
superintendent would frown on me skipping out on my teaching
responsibilies. (I have a concert that night anyway). I have been
using the cordless and it is either slow or fast with no inbetween. I
am going to try the variable speed electric and pick up an handful of
real cheap bits and just go through them. If they break they will
become part of the boat. what the heck . . .
David Jost
"avoiding work again"
> to borrow it, meet me at Logan Wednesday, lunchtime ;-).... or I can Fed-ex
> it up to you if you want it sooner!
> I've got even more micro envy than you! At least you're working on yours,
> I'm preparing for a 2-week business trip, and looking at yet more delays to
> start construction.... But I do enjoy Peter's ravings about his sweet little
> boat.
>
> good luck!
>
> Paul
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: djost@m... [mailto:djost@m...]
> > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:30 AM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
> >
> >
> > No Peter,
> > In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
> > due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
> > hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
> > I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
> > hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
> >
> > David Jost
> > "Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
> > >
> > > Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
> > > feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
> > > way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
> > > that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
> > > other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
> > > board!!!!!!!
> > >
> > > Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
> > > the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > > > Paul,
> > > >
> > > > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
> > > > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
> > > that
> > > > require a leisure pace.
> > > >
> > > > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
> > > > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
> > > > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
> > > > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
> > > > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
> > > is
> > > > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
> > > > damage done other than financial.
> > > >
> > > > DAvid JOst
> > > >
> > > > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
> > > > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
> > > miles
> > > > to my
> > > > > north, and his iminent launch!
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul Lefebvre
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
Randy,
This is the conclusion that I think most of us come to...decent finish and
launch the thing.
To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a high quality
finish to it, try adding a few pieces of bright finished mahogany, oak, teak
(really expensive) etc. The gunwales and inwales of my first Pointy Skiff
are done in Philipine Mahogany. The hardwood looks good and so far has held
up great to dock banging, oar whacking, and little kids dragging things on
and off the boat.
Jim
This is the conclusion that I think most of us come to...decent finish and
launch the thing.
To satisfy that desire to put something on the boat with a high quality
finish to it, try adding a few pieces of bright finished mahogany, oak, teak
(really expensive) etc. The gunwales and inwales of my first Pointy Skiff
are done in Philipine Mahogany. The hardwood looks good and so far has held
up great to dock banging, oar whacking, and little kids dragging things on
and off the boat.
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From:rrobar@...[mailto:rrobar@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 2:15 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> Thanks for all the responses! I've decided to go with the looks-
> great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push
> Micro into the water. Afterall, it's a sailboat, not a yacht.
>
> randy
> quickly turning lots of expensive wood and epoxy into dust outside
> Boston
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr." <paul@w...> wrote:
> > I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just
> recently
> > sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip
> canoe to
> > foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta
> toss in my
> > 2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
> > I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day -
> I put the
> > cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and
> squeegee
> > off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the
> ones sold by
> > West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape
> out too
> > much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same
> rectangular
> > shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal
> gourmet'
> > logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the
> cloth in the
> > form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much
> sanding work
> > that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough
> to be
> > firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second
> coat to
> > fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for
> anything
> > coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want
> to sand
> > through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath
> you went to
> > all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the
> weave is
> > important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup
> coat harden
> > completely before recoating, you really should sand for good
> adhesion before
> > the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to
> remove
> > the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your
> cloth,
> > hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most
> efficiently.
> > Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
> > close-enough succession.
> > After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes
> varnish, and
> > right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my
> brother), I
> > was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an
> unforgiving
> > varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake
> on Easter
> > Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since
> June of '95,
> > had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and
> I feel
> > like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger
> boat, and
> > I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-):
> Now my
> > shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails
> have been
> > done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather
> vigorous
> > pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a
> couple
> > months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain
> messabout in
> > a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that
> floats..... sorry
> > for the long post.
> >
> > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles
> to my
> > north, and his iminent launch!
> >
> > Paul Lefebvre
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Dave,
I acquired a drill press a couple years ago, with vastly variable speed,
and owning it has allowed me to experiment drilling things I never would
have tackled by hand before. Seems like the slower speeds work better with
metals; not as much torque when it grabs, as it inevitably does when you
don't have the thing perfectly clamped down in a proper vise; your keel
isn't moving but your arms surely are, same effect. I've only drilled
aluminum and some steel, not lead, so can't speak from firsthand experience
(yet!) but a slower drill speed is easy and cheap to experiment with. I have
an old Sears 3/8" variable-speed reversing drill I picked up cheap at a yard
sale, hardly ever use it now that I have a cordless, but the little knob on
the trigger that lets you set the max trigger depth/drill speed might be
just the kind of gadget you'd need for this. Just a thought.... If you want
to borrow it, meet me at Logan Wednesday, lunchtime ;-).... or I can Fed-ex
it up to you if you want it sooner!
I've got even more micro envy than you! At least you're working on yours,
I'm preparing for a 2-week business trip, and looking at yet more delays to
start construction.... But I do enjoy Peter's ravings about his sweet little
boat.
good luck!
Paul
I acquired a drill press a couple years ago, with vastly variable speed,
and owning it has allowed me to experiment drilling things I never would
have tackled by hand before. Seems like the slower speeds work better with
metals; not as much torque when it grabs, as it inevitably does when you
don't have the thing perfectly clamped down in a proper vise; your keel
isn't moving but your arms surely are, same effect. I've only drilled
aluminum and some steel, not lead, so can't speak from firsthand experience
(yet!) but a slower drill speed is easy and cheap to experiment with. I have
an old Sears 3/8" variable-speed reversing drill I picked up cheap at a yard
sale, hardly ever use it now that I have a cordless, but the little knob on
the trigger that lets you set the max trigger depth/drill speed might be
just the kind of gadget you'd need for this. Just a thought.... If you want
to borrow it, meet me at Logan Wednesday, lunchtime ;-).... or I can Fed-ex
it up to you if you want it sooner!
I've got even more micro envy than you! At least you're working on yours,
I'm preparing for a 2-week business trip, and looking at yet more delays to
start construction.... But I do enjoy Peter's ravings about his sweet little
boat.
good luck!
Paul
> -----Original Message-----
> From:djost@...[mailto:djost@...]
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 9:30 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> No Peter,
> In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
> due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
> hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
> I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
> hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
>
> David Jost
> "Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
> >
> > Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
> > feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
> > way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
> > that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
> > other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
> > board!!!!!!!
> >
> > Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
> > Sincerely,
> > Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
> > the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > > Paul,
> > >
> > > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
> > > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
> > that
> > > require a leisure pace.
> > >
> > > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
> > > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
> > > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
> > > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
> > > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
> > is
> > > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
> > > damage done other than financial.
> > >
> > > DAvid JOst
> > >
> > > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
> > > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
> > miles
> > > to my
> > > > north, and his iminent launch!
> > > >
> > > > Paul Lefebvre
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
No Peter,
In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
David Jost
"Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
In my test run, the bronze nails bent too much prior to seating
due to the antimony that was added to the casting. The casting is too
hard to drive the nails, yet too soft for very sharp titanium drills.
I will try dipping a less sharp drill bit in kerosene (plenty of those
hurricane lamps in the garage) and try the other side this weekend.
David Jost
"Suffering from Micro envy, knock it off Peter! :-)"
>
> Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
> feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
> way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
> that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
> other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
> board!!!!!!!
>
> Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
> the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > Paul,
> >
> > I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
> > perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
> that
> > require a leisure pace.
> >
> > I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
> > The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
> > extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
> > but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
> > better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
> is
> > that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
> > damage done other than financial.
> >
> > DAvid JOst
> >
> > "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
> > > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
> miles
> > to my
> > > north, and his iminent launch!
> > >
> > > Paul Lefebvre
When you spread this stuff with a roller, you might try "tipping" with a dry foam brush, drag the
brush across after you spread a couple of sq ft, no down presure. May eliminate orange peel. Clyde
ellengaest@...wrote:
brush across after you spread a couple of sq ft, no down presure. May eliminate orange peel. Clyde
ellengaest@...wrote:
> Hi Randy,
> Not too sure what you're after;"a smooth fiberglass surface" or "a
> paintable surface".If "paintable",then I would stop where you are and
> begin with the paint à la workboat finish.However,if it is the smooth
> fiberglass look you are seeking then I would proceed as follows:
> Finish sanding the second coat of epoxy.
> Get hold of Interlux 401/402(if I recall correctly!) Barrier
> coat.
Hi David,
Why are you drilling the holes? I would imagine that if you can
drive the broken drill bits into the lead and are using bronze
nails(stronger/stiffer then lead) then should they not drive in just
as easily?
Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
board!!!!!!!
Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
Why are you drilling the holes? I would imagine that if you can
drive the broken drill bits into the lead and are using bronze
nails(stronger/stiffer then lead) then should they not drive in just
as easily?
Got my Micro all wet this evening at 18:25!!!!!!!What a wonderful
feeling to be on board after a long winter on the hard.Judging by the
way she dipped and rolled while I was on board,I would have to guess
that she is tickled pink at being back in her element.Were it not for
other obligations later this evening,I would have spent the night on
board!!!!!!!
Sure wish I coulda been there to help with the keel.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,going through something of a heat wave with temps in
the 29 to 30 degree celsius range,on the shores of the St.Lawrence....
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Paul,
>
> I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
> perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs
that
> require a leisure pace.
>
> I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
> The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
> extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
> but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
> better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news
is
> that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
> damage done other than financial.
>
> DAvid JOst
>
> "working rather than boatbuilding :-("
> > Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60
miles
> to my
> > north, and his iminent launch!
> >
> > Paul Lefebvre
Thanks for all the responses! I've decided to go with the looks-
great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push
Micro into the water. Afterall, it's a sailboat, not a yacht.
randy
quickly turning lots of expensive wood and epoxy into dust outside
Boston
great-from-10-feet option: sand lightly, cover with paint, then push
Micro into the water. Afterall, it's a sailboat, not a yacht.
randy
quickly turning lots of expensive wood and epoxy into dust outside
Boston
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr." <paul@w...> wrote:
> I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just
recently
> sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip
canoe to
> foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta
toss in my
> 2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
> I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day -
I put the
> cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and
squeegee
> off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the
ones sold by
> West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape
out too
> much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same
rectangular
> shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal
gourmet'
> logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the
cloth in the
> form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much
sanding work
> that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough
to be
> firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second
coat to
> fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for
anything
> coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want
to sand
> through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath
you went to
> all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the
weave is
> important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup
coat harden
> completely before recoating, you really should sand for good
adhesion before
> the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to
remove
> the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your
cloth,
> hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most
efficiently.
> Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
> close-enough succession.
> After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes
varnish, and
> right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my
brother), I
> was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an
unforgiving
> varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake
on Easter
> Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since
June of '95,
> had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and
I feel
> like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger
boat, and
> I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-):
Now my
> shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails
have been
> done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather
vigorous
> pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a
couple
> months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain
messabout in
> a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that
floats..... sorry
> for the long post.
>
> Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles
to my
> north, and his iminent launch!
>
> Paul Lefebvre
A lot of emails? I only had 153. BTW, your boat is beautiful.
Jim
Jim
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Orr, Jamie [mailto:jorr@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 8:13 AM
> To: 'bolger@yahoogroups.com'
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> I may be chiming in late on this one -- I had a pile of emails to
> deal with
> when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn't pay close
> attention to
> all of them. However, here's my two bits.
>
> I hate sanding epoxy, so I try not to put on more than I have to. I use a
> squeegee to wet out the cloth, and to remove excess, so that only a thin
> coat is left on. I sometimes use a squeegee for the second, and even the
> third coat, but more often use a thin foam roller (west) followed by
> brushing to even out the coat and smooth the surface. Keeping the coats
> thin cuts the sanding way down, and (almost) eliminates any chance of
> sagging.
>
> For a good description of the sanding operation, take a look at a the
> Chesapeake Light Craft shop tips on their website. I follow these
> guidelines for as long as I can stand it, then call the job
> finished -- I'm
> not sure there is an "easiest" way, but maybe there is one that is least
> difficult!
>
> (I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without
> plywood, epoxy
> or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
>
> Jamie Orr
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Chamberlin RCSIS [mailto:jchamberlin@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:53 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
> grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
> sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing
> back 10 feet
> is also recommended.
>
> Jim C
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
> > Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
> >
> >
> > Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't.
> I go for
> > work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the
> weave, then
> > Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
> > when you show
> > it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
> > sanding battens.
> > Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
> > width is to fit
> > a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
> > suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and
> resin, maybe? Be
> > sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll
> sand it all
> > away each time :-)
> >
> > Cheers/Carron
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no
> cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Paul,
I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs that
require a leisure pace.
I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news is
that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
damage done other than financial.
DAvid JOst
"working rather than boatbuilding :-("
I have been doing keel work with the weather, as you stated,
perfect epoxying weather. It is actually a little warm for jobs that
require a leisure pace.
I have run into a problem with drilling holes in my lead keel.
The drill keeps grabbing and major pressure backwards is needed to
extract the drill. I have tried oiling the tip, and drilling slowly
but have broken $10 worth of drill bits so far. If no one has any
better suggestions I will just pony up another $10. The good news is
that when they break I just hammer them home into the lead. No
damage done other than financial.
DAvid JOst
"working rather than boatbuilding :-("
> Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 milesto my
> north, and his iminent launch!
>
> Paul Lefebvre
I've been sitting on the sidelines on this one, but having just recently
sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip canoe to
foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta toss in my
2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day - I put the
cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and squeegee
off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the ones sold by
West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape out too
much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same rectangular
shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal gourmet'
logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the cloth in the
form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much sanding work
that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough to be
firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second coat to
fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for anything
coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want to sand
through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath you went to
all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the weave is
important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup coat harden
completely before recoating, you really should sand for good adhesion before
the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to remove
the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your cloth,
hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most efficiently.
Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
close-enough succession.
After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes varnish, and
right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my brother), I
was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an unforgiving
varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake on Easter
Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since June of '95,
had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and I feel
like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger boat, and
I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-): Now my
shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails have been
done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather vigorous
pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a couple
months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain messabout in
a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that floats..... sorry
for the long post.
Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles to my
north, and his iminent launch!
Paul Lefebvre
sanded and varnished the fiberglass coating on my 4th cedar-strip canoe to
foot-away quality bright finish inside and out, perhaps I oughta toss in my
2 cents worth, elaborating on Jamie's suggestions.
I do all my glass layup and subsequent coats in a single day - I put the
cloth on dry on bare wood, on an upside-down boat, wet it out and squeegee
off most of the resin with a very flexible plastic spatula (the ones sold by
West system, or for autobody work, are too stiff and will scrape out too
much resin! I prefer the plastic cake spatulas of the same rectangular
shape, sold under various names - I bought a bunch with 'frugal gourmet'
logos on them). This method takes alot of epoxy back out of the cloth in the
form of non-reusable foamy semi-kicked gunk, but saves so much sanding work
that I think it's worth the price.Once the resin is set up enough to be
firm, but still a bit tacky, roll, brush, or squeegee on a second coat to
fill the weave; a third coat for 6 oz and probably a 4th coat for anything
coarser, but on 4 oz. cloth 2 coats is just enough. You don't want to sand
through any cloth, it will seriously weaken the expensive sheath you went to
all the trouble to put on in the first place, so filling in the weave is
important; and if you leave it overnight and let the first layup coat harden
completely before recoating, you really should sand for good adhesion before
the second coat, or at least scrub with a scotchbrite and amonia to remove
the blush. Sanding after only 1 coat means you're weakening your cloth,
hence the long day and multiple coats to really do it most efficiently.
Presumably the blush 'floats' to the surface if you apply coats in
close-enough succession.
After going through this and applying 6 coats of Epifanes varnish, and
right up to delivering the canoe (it was a birthday gift to my brother), I
was swearing I'd never go through this again, at least to an unforgiving
varnish-perfect level of finish. Then we dropped it the Chesapeake on Easter
Sunday, and it all evaporated... I hadn't launched a boat since June of '95,
had forgotten what a sweet feeling it is - nothing comes close, and I feel
like a boatbuilder again. I'd post a photo but it's not a Bolger boat, and
I'll take the following cheap shot to help justify this post ;-): Now my
shop's empty and I'm free to start construction on my micro (sails have been
done for awhile), just as soon as I recover from Uncle Sam's rather vigorous
pat-down on April 15..... anyone paying attention to my ravings a couple
months ago already guessed I wouldn't make it to the Champlain messabout in
a micro this year, but I will bring something pretty that floats..... sorry
for the long post.
Envious of Dave Jost up there in perfect epoxying weather, 60 miles to my
north, and his iminent launch!
Paul Lefebvre
Yep. That's why the last two boats were lapstrake plywood. Spend a
little more for good plywood, sand a lot less. I'm getting less and
less tolerant of sanding. The guy who wrote "Canoecraft" (Ted
Moore?) of Bear Mountain Canoe works, can do a better job of getting
fiberglass cloth smooth and flat than seems possible, but he hasn't
put his secret in the books. I wish he would.
Keith Wilson
little more for good plywood, sand a lot less. I'm getting less and
less tolerant of sanding. The guy who wrote "Canoecraft" (Ted
Moore?) of Bear Mountain Canoe works, can do a better job of getting
fiberglass cloth smooth and flat than seems possible, but he hasn't
put his secret in the books. I wish he would.
Keith Wilson
--- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> I hate sanding epoxy . . .
> (I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without
plywood, epoxy, or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
I may be chiming in late on this one -- I had a pile of emails to deal with
when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn't pay close attention to
all of them. However, here's my two bits.
I hate sanding epoxy, so I try not to put on more than I have to. I use a
squeegee to wet out the cloth, and to remove excess, so that only a thin
coat is left on. I sometimes use a squeegee for the second, and even the
third coat, but more often use a thin foam roller (west) followed by
brushing to even out the coat and smooth the surface. Keeping the coats
thin cuts the sanding way down, and (almost) eliminates any chance of
sagging.
For a good description of the sanding operation, take a look at a the
Chesapeake Light Craft shop tips on their website. I follow these
guidelines for as long as I can stand it, then call the job finished -- I'm
not sure there is an "easiest" way, but maybe there is one that is least
difficult!
(I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without plywood, epoxy
or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Chamberlin RCSIS [mailto:jchamberlin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:53 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
is also recommended.
Jim C
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
when I got home from Depoe Bay, so I probably didn't pay close attention to
all of them. However, here's my two bits.
I hate sanding epoxy, so I try not to put on more than I have to. I use a
squeegee to wet out the cloth, and to remove excess, so that only a thin
coat is left on. I sometimes use a squeegee for the second, and even the
third coat, but more often use a thin foam roller (west) followed by
brushing to even out the coat and smooth the surface. Keeping the coats
thin cuts the sanding way down, and (almost) eliminates any chance of
sagging.
For a good description of the sanding operation, take a look at a the
Chesapeake Light Craft shop tips on their website. I follow these
guidelines for as long as I can stand it, then call the job finished -- I'm
not sure there is an "easiest" way, but maybe there is one that is least
difficult!
(I've promised myself that I'm going to build a boat without plywood, epoxy
or glass, but I haven't done it yet.)
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Chamberlin RCSIS [mailto:jchamberlin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 9:53 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
is also recommended.
Jim C
> -----Original Message-----Bolger rules!!!
> From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
> work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
> Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
> when you show
> it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
>
> Chuck
>
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
> Randy,
>
> To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
> sanding battens.
> Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
> width is to fit
> a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
> suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
> sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
> away each time :-)
>
> Cheers/Carron
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks everyone. I've decided to breakout the sander, roll on some
paint, and push Micro into the water. It is after all a working
sailboat, not a yacht.
paint, and push Micro into the water. It is after all a working
sailboat, not a yacht.
--- In bolger@y..., "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...> wrote:
> I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander
with 60
> grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
> sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing
back 10 feet
> is also recommended.
>
> Jim C
>
I second Chuck's suggestion, but I have also used a belt sander with 60
grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
is also recommended.
Jim C
grit. Used carefully and followed up with an orbital using 120 and
sometimes a lighter weight gets a nice finish for me. Standing back 10 feet
is also recommended.
Jim C
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
> Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 10:26 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
>
> Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
> work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
> Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet
> when you show
> it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
>
> Chuck
>
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
>
> Randy,
>
> To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible
> sanding battens.
> Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long,
> width is to fit
> a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
> suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
> sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
> away each time :-)
>
> Cheers/Carron
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Now you know the dark side of fiberglass and epoxy.
HJ
rrobar@...wrote:
HJ
rrobar@...wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
> vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
> 4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
> and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
> the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
> sanded...).
>
> Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
>
> Thanks,
> randy
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Randy,
Not too sure what you're after;"a smooth fiberglass surface" or "a
paintable surface".If "paintable",then I would stop where you are and
begin with the paint à la workboat finish.However,if it is the smooth
fiberglass look you are seeking then I would proceed as follows:
Finish sanding the second coat of epoxy.
Get hold of Interlux 401/402(if I recall correctly!) Barrier
coat.This is a two part product that will mix to the consistency of
very thick paint.Using a small(4")roller,apply this barrier coat like
paint.Once it has dried,use a sanding board and a strong light source
to gauge your progress.The surface will at first appear with an orange
peel texture.Using the light source just ahead of where you are
sanding,sand until the little craters dissappear.You will be able to
see this with the light and the surface will resemble a mirror.You
will also be able to spot any waves,dips or hollows that may need
another coat or two of the barrier coat.
This stuff sands very easily but gives off very toxic vapours
while drying,so work with lots of ventilation.Once you get used to
working with the light just ahead of where you are sanding,you might
become obsessed with getting that"glass-like"finish everywhere.It is
addictive!!!!
Afterwards,the surface should be primed according to your paint of
choice.Use those foam brushes or spray your paint.The results will do
justice to all your building labours.
So that is my .02$ worth and is only based on how I did my
MICRO.Hope to see pictures soon of the finished product!!Good Luck!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,on the shores of the St.Lawrence..................
Not too sure what you're after;"a smooth fiberglass surface" or "a
paintable surface".If "paintable",then I would stop where you are and
begin with the paint à la workboat finish.However,if it is the smooth
fiberglass look you are seeking then I would proceed as follows:
Finish sanding the second coat of epoxy.
Get hold of Interlux 401/402(if I recall correctly!) Barrier
coat.This is a two part product that will mix to the consistency of
very thick paint.Using a small(4")roller,apply this barrier coat like
paint.Once it has dried,use a sanding board and a strong light source
to gauge your progress.The surface will at first appear with an orange
peel texture.Using the light source just ahead of where you are
sanding,sand until the little craters dissappear.You will be able to
see this with the light and the surface will resemble a mirror.You
will also be able to spot any waves,dips or hollows that may need
another coat or two of the barrier coat.
This stuff sands very easily but gives off very toxic vapours
while drying,so work with lots of ventilation.Once you get used to
working with the light just ahead of where you are sanding,you might
become obsessed with getting that"glass-like"finish everywhere.It is
addictive!!!!
Afterwards,the surface should be primed according to your paint of
choice.Use those foam brushes or spray your paint.The results will do
justice to all your building labours.
So that is my .02$ worth and is only based on how I did my
MICRO.Hope to see pictures soon of the finished product!!Good Luck!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,on the shores of the St.Lawrence..................
--- In bolger@y..., rrobar@s... wrote:
> Hi Gang,
>
> What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
> vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
> 4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
> and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
> the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
> sanded...).
>
> Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
>
> Thanks,
> randy
There has been a lot of discussion on the message list at
www.bateau.com about getting a smooth finish. Jacques Mertens uses a
hi-build primer, rather than a lot of epoxy filler.
Peter
www.bateau.com about getting a smooth finish. Jacques Mertens uses a
hi-build primer, rather than a lot of epoxy filler.
Peter
Randy,
I recommend getting an old paint scraper and rounding off the
edge. After your first coat of epoxy "kicks off" and the glass cannot
be pushed around, run the scraper over the weave. That will flatten
it just enough to make your second coat more effective.
I got this tip from one of the epoxy web sites.
system 3?
david jost
"back to the keel"
I recommend getting an old paint scraper and rounding off the
edge. After your first coat of epoxy "kicks off" and the glass cannot
be pushed around, run the scraper over the weave. That will flatten
it just enough to make your second coat more effective.
I got this tip from one of the epoxy web sites.
system 3?
david jost
"back to the keel"
> Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
>
> Thanks,
> randy
In a message dated 04/30/2001 1:<BR27:<BR43 PM
Eastern Daylight ,pongo19050@...writes:> I saw this trick in one of
the System Three manuals - I just
fairing compounds.
And, as Chuck mentioned, this isn't for June Bug, et. al., but for "gold
platers" :-)
Carron
Eastern Daylight ,pongo19050@...writes:> I saw this trick in one of
the System Three manuals - I just
> committed the apostacy of using it with Bondo.Works fine, it is just heavy and hard tosand compred to a lot of other
fairing compounds.
And, as Chuck mentioned, this isn't for June Bug, et. al., but for "gold
platers" :-)
Carron
Don's method is fine if you want a nice finish, but many don't. I go for
work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet when you show
it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
Chuck
Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
Randy,
To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
away each time :-)
Cheers/Carron
work boat finish. I give the cloth a second coat to fill the weave, then
Random orbital sand, and paint. Be sure to stand back 10 feet when you show
it off. This method will get you in the water a lot faster.
Chuck
Subject: Re: [bolger] Easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface?
Randy,
To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
away each time :-)
Cheers/Carron
I have used something with the consistence of Bondo (alright, I'll
admit it - I've used Bondo) put on with a notched trowel of the sort
one uses to put down adhesive for a tile floor. I then sand off most
of the notches and put down more fairing compound, this time with a
smooth trowel. One more light sanding seems to fair things nicely.
I saw this trick in one of the System Three manuals - I just
committed the apostacy of using it with Bondo.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
admit it - I've used Bondo) put on with a notched trowel of the sort
one uses to put down adhesive for a tile floor. I then sand off most
of the notches and put down more fairing compound, this time with a
smooth trowel. One more light sanding seems to fair things nicely.
I saw this trick in one of the System Three manuals - I just
committed the apostacy of using it with Bondo.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
In a message dated 04/30/2001 12:<BR33:<BR01 PM
Eastern Daylight,rrobar@...writes:
To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
away each time :-)
Cheers/Carron
Eastern Daylight,rrobar@...writes:
> This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, andRandy,
> sanded...).> Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
>
To get it really smooth, you have to use long semi-flexible sanding battens.
Mine are made of 3/8" plywood and are 2 and 2 1/2 feet long, width is to fit
a half sheet of paper. I stick the paper to them with 3M spray cement. I
suppose you are fairing with a compound? Microballons and resin, maybe? Be
sure to use a notched trowel to apply the compound, or you'll sand it all
away each time :-)
Cheers/Carron
Hi Gang,
What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
sanded...).
Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
Thanks,
randy
What's the easiest way to get a smooth fiberglass surface (without
vacuum-bagging)? Micro is now 3-d and we're starting to cover with
4oz cloth. Currently, we're laying the cloth, rolling on the epoxy,
and then when that's cured, spreading more epoxy to completely fill
the cloth weave. This second coat is then sanded (and sanded, and
sanded...).
Is there a better way to get a "paintable" surface?
Thanks,
randy