RE: drilling lead
You can buy a coolant / lube that machinists use, but WD40 works fine. Slow
the bit down, and keep spraying the stuff into the hole as you drill.
------------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 18:11:55 -0000
From:tetherin@...
Subject: Re: drilling lead
I tried cutting lead with a circular saw and found that the blade
kept grabbibg after a second or two. Finally figured out that the
lead was melting and then solidifying on the blade. I'd bet that
your drill bits are melting the lead and adhereing to it. I'd try
going slower, using lubrication to reduce friction and letting the
bits cool between holes.
the bit down, and keep spraying the stuff into the hole as you drill.
------------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 18:11:55 -0000
From:tetherin@...
Subject: Re: drilling lead
I tried cutting lead with a circular saw and found that the blade
kept grabbibg after a second or two. Finally figured out that the
lead was melting and then solidifying on the blade. I'd bet that
your drill bits are melting the lead and adhereing to it. I'd try
going slower, using lubrication to reduce friction and letting the
bits cool between holes.
The odds are that you are trning the bit too fast. The ideal speed
would be less than 750 rpms. Go to a plumbing or electrical supply
store and get some cutting oil....it is the best way to go. Both
should have oil for thread cutters used in plumbing or heavy duty
conduit for electricans.
Keep the speed down you are likely soldering the bit to the hole.
would be less than 750 rpms. Go to a plumbing or electrical supply
store and get some cutting oil....it is the best way to go. Both
should have oil for thread cutters used in plumbing or heavy duty
conduit for electricans.
Keep the speed down you are likely soldering the bit to the hole.
I tried cutting lead with a circular saw and found that the blade
kept grabbibg after a second or two. Finally figured out that the
lead was melting and then solidifying on the blade. I'd bet that
your drill bits are melting the lead and adhereing to it. I'd try
going slower, using lubrication to reduce friction and letting the
bits cool between holes.
I should be in your situation in about a month if all goes well.
kept grabbibg after a second or two. Finally figured out that the
lead was melting and then solidifying on the blade. I'd bet that
your drill bits are melting the lead and adhereing to it. I'd try
going slower, using lubrication to reduce friction and letting the
bits cool between holes.
I should be in your situation in about a month if all goes well.
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Dear Group,
> I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze
nails
> into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize that
I
> must be missing something.
> The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and
digs too
> aggresively.
> "spending way too much on drill bits"
Yes, a different bit is the answer. Changing the relief angle would help
some by making the bit less aggressive. You might also try a thin web
drill since it leaves more room for chips to move but, of course, these
bits are weaker. There may be other options, too. I think using cutting
fluid is probably the best thign to try first. I strongly recommend
against kerosene because of both the fire and environmental risks. THere
are much safer cutting fluids now that don't cost a fortune.
Try calling Victor Machinery Exchange. Great service, great prices (okay,
it's my brother so I've got a bias, but I used to own it with him and
customer service and low prices have always been strong points.) They're
at 800-723-5359 or 251 Centre St in lower Manhattan if you happen to be
in NYC. THey're on the web too, but I have to admit that I don't think the
web site is nearly as good as the company is in general.
http://www.victornet.com
If you want their catalog, just go to the web site or call and ask for one.
Dan Freidus
At 1:38 AM -0000 5/3/01, Lincoln Ross wrote:
some by making the bit less aggressive. You might also try a thin web
drill since it leaves more room for chips to move but, of course, these
bits are weaker. There may be other options, too. I think using cutting
fluid is probably the best thign to try first. I strongly recommend
against kerosene because of both the fire and environmental risks. THere
are much safer cutting fluids now that don't cost a fortune.
Try calling Victor Machinery Exchange. Great service, great prices (okay,
it's my brother so I've got a bias, but I used to own it with him and
customer service and low prices have always been strong points.) They're
at 800-723-5359 or 251 Centre St in lower Manhattan if you happen to be
in NYC. THey're on the web too, but I have to admit that I don't think the
web site is nearly as good as the company is in general.
http://www.victornet.com
If you want their catalog, just go to the web site or call and ask for one.
Dan Freidus
At 1:38 AM -0000 5/3/01, Lincoln Ross wrote:
>I suspect you need another type of drill bit. You could go to a
>machinist's supply place and ask for advice. Maybe more flutes or
>something. Or you could find McMaster Carr on the web and look thru their
>amazing catalog. You just have to convince them you are a company. Or,
>locally, maybe MSC has a web presence these days? I have their catalog if
>you are stumped. I think a bit that is meant for plastic might actually
>work. Regular bits on plastic tend to be grabby, too.
>
>If you could control the feed rate, I bet you could keep the bits from
>breaking.
>
>I think the titanium bits are just steel with a titanium nitride coating.
>Probably not stronger, just stay sharp longer.
>
>Another thing to try is getting cheapie drill bits and grinding them to a
>shallower angle. Maybe even just freehand. What have you got to lose?
>
>--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
>> Dear Group,
>> I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze nails
>> into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize that I
>> must be missing something.
>> The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and digs too
>> aggresively. I can only salvage the drill bit with major reverse
>> pressure on the drilling operation. I tried light machine oil on the
>> bit(s), but with the same results.
>> What am I missing?
>>
>> David Jost
>> "spending way too much on drill bits"
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
>- no flogging dead horses
>- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>- stay on topic and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Are you going to attach plywood sheathing to the lead? I used wood
screws with no predrilling of the lead, which seemed to work. The
srews seem to really grab the lead. I've also used automotive
antifreeze in a squirt bottle when drilling in other metals.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
screws with no predrilling of the lead, which seemed to work. The
srews seem to really grab the lead. I've also used automotive
antifreeze in a squirt bottle when drilling in other metals.
Regards
Andy Farquhar
You could freeze it, like this guy:
http://www.ionet.net/~mmyc/drillead.htm
To drill aluminum, I use anti-freeze for lube.
Also, be sure to pull the bit out often to shake the chips off.
I was joking about the freezing, but quite possibly your bit is
getting hot enough to melt the lead to the bit.
Keep the bit cool. Go slow, use lots of lube, and shake the chips off
often.
I have the same problem with aluminum if I go to fast. It will weld
to the drill bit.
http://www.ionet.net/~mmyc/drillead.htm
To drill aluminum, I use anti-freeze for lube.
Also, be sure to pull the bit out often to shake the chips off.
I was joking about the freezing, but quite possibly your bit is
getting hot enough to melt the lead to the bit.
Keep the bit cool. Go slow, use lots of lube, and shake the chips off
often.
I have the same problem with aluminum if I go to fast. It will weld
to the drill bit.
--- In bolger@y..., Dan Freidus <freidus@w...> wrote:
> Yes, a different bit is the answer. Changing the relief angle
would help
> some by making the bit less aggressive. You might also try a thin
web
> drill since it leaves more room for chips to move but, of course,
these
> bits are weaker. There may be other options, too. I think using
cutting
> fluid is probably the best thign to try first. I strongly recommend
> against kerosene because of both the fire and environmental risks.
THere
> are much safer cutting fluids now that don't cost a fortune.
>
> Try calling Victor Machinery Exchange. Great service, great prices
(okay,
> it's my brother so I've got a bias, but I used to own it with him
and
> customer service and low prices have always been strong points.)
They're
> at 800-723-5359 or 251 Centre St in lower Manhattan if you happen
to be
> in NYC. THey're on the web too, but I have to admit that I don't
think the
> web site is nearly as good as the company is in general.
>http://www.victornet.com
>
> If you want their catalog, just go to the web site or call and ask
for one.
>
> Dan Freidus
>
>
>
>
> At 1:38 AM -0000 5/3/01, Lincoln Ross wrote:
> >I suspect you need another type of drill bit. You could go to a
> >machinist's supply place and ask for advice. Maybe more flutes or
> >something. Or you could find McMaster Carr on the web and look
thru their
> >amazing catalog. You just have to convince them you are a company.
Or,
> >locally, maybe MSC has a web presence these days? I have their
catalog if
> >you are stumped. I think a bit that is meant for plastic might
actually
> >work. Regular bits on plastic tend to be grabby, too.
> >
> >If you could control the feed rate, I bet you could keep the bits
from
> >breaking.
> >
> >I think the titanium bits are just steel with a titanium nitride
coating.
> >Probably not stronger, just stay sharp longer.
> >
> >Another thing to try is getting cheapie drill bits and grinding
them to a
> >shallower angle. Maybe even just freehand. What have you got to
lose?
> >
> >--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> >> Dear Group,
> >> I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze nails
> >> into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize
that I
> >> must be missing something.
> >> The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and
digs too
> >> aggresively. I can only salvage the drill bit with major reverse
> >> pressure on the drilling operation. I tried light machine oil
on the
> >> bit(s), but with the same results.
> >> What am I missing?
> >>
> >> David Jost
> >> "spending way too much on drill bits"
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> >- no flogging dead horses
> >- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> >- stay on topic and punctuate
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I seem to vaugely remember that if you use less relief angle when
sharpening the drill bit, it will prevent this. It would require
regrinding the bit, so I would try the kerosene first unless you are
good a grinding tool bits.
Can anyone confirm my recollection?
sharpening the drill bit, it will prevent this. It would require
regrinding the bit, so I would try the kerosene first unless you are
good a grinding tool bits.
Can anyone confirm my recollection?
djost@...wrote:
Phil Smith
>Try less pressure and more RPMs.
> Dear Group,
> I keep breaking drill bits while drilling into the lead keel. The
> drills start, but then grab and dig too aggresively to a point where
> they get stuck and then break. I have tried applying oil to the drill
> tip, but the same thing happens. This is getting expensive.
> Any ideas?
> The lead is about 3% antimony which makes it easier to handle but
> harder to drill.
Phil Smith
I suspect you need another type of drill bit. You could go to a machinist's supply place and ask for advice. Maybe more flutes or something. Or you could find McMaster Carr on the web and look thru their amazing catalog. You just have to convince them you are a company. Or, locally, maybe MSC has a web presence these days? I have their catalog if you are stumped. I think a bit that is meant for plastic might actually work. Regular bits on plastic tend to be grabby, too.
If you could control the feed rate, I bet you could keep the bits from breaking.
I think the titanium bits are just steel with a titanium nitride coating. Probably not stronger, just stay sharp longer.
Another thing to try is getting cheapie drill bits and grinding them to a shallower angle. Maybe even just freehand. What have you got to lose?
If you could control the feed rate, I bet you could keep the bits from breaking.
I think the titanium bits are just steel with a titanium nitride coating. Probably not stronger, just stay sharp longer.
Another thing to try is getting cheapie drill bits and grinding them to a shallower angle. Maybe even just freehand. What have you got to lose?
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Dear Group,
> I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze nails
> into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize that I
> must be missing something.
> The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and digs too
> aggresively. I can only salvage the drill bit with major reverse
> pressure on the drilling operation. I tried light machine oil on the
> bit(s), but with the same results.
> What am I missing?
>
> David Jost
> "spending way too much on drill bits"
I read somewhere, maybe Bernie's old CSD newsletters, that you should "dip
your drill bit in kerosene" to keep it from grabbing.
I'd test it on the Micro keel that's laying on my back patio, but I don't
have any kerosene. Sorry.
JB
your drill bit in kerosene" to keep it from grabbing.
I'd test it on the Micro keel that's laying on my back patio, but I don't
have any kerosene. Sorry.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: <djost@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 2:38 PM
Subject: [bolger] drilling lead
| Dear Group,
| I keep breaking drill bits while drilling into the lead keel. The
| drills start, but then grab and dig too aggresively to a point where
| they get stuck and then break. I have tried applying oil to the drill
| tip, but the same thing happens. This is getting expensive.
| Any ideas?
| The lead is about 3% antimony which makes it easier to handle but
| harder to drill.
|
| David Jost
| "going broke on a very small boat"
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
| - no flogging dead horses
| - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
| - stay on topic and punctuate
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
|
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
Dear Group,
I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze nails
into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize that I
must be missing something.
The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and digs too
aggresively. I can only salvage the drill bit with major reverse
pressure on the drilling operation. I tried light machine oil on the
bit(s), but with the same results.
What am I missing?
David Jost
"spending way too much on drill bits"
I have recently been predrilling holes for my #12 bronze nails
into the lead. After breaking 4 titanium drill bits I realize that I
must be missing something.
The drill pierces the material readily but then grabs and digs too
aggresively. I can only salvage the drill bit with major reverse
pressure on the drilling operation. I tried light machine oil on the
bit(s), but with the same results.
What am I missing?
David Jost
"spending way too much on drill bits"