Re: oar "leathers" too late now I guess
Read you have already done "Leathers" Most likely will be just
fine. My messages above told how to wrap without using brads.
"Bradless" method pretty cool, neat, and lots of fun once you get the
hang of it.
Good luck, and happy boating.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, oregon
fine. My messages above told how to wrap without using brads.
"Bradless" method pretty cool, neat, and lots of fun once you get the
hang of it.
Good luck, and happy boating.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, oregon
--- In bolger@y..., "Michael Galvin" <michaelgalvin@h...> wrote:
> Thanks to all who replied to my search for ideas on
oar "leathers." I
> decided to wrap the loom with 1/8th inch braided dacron. I used
small brads
> to fix in place the starting wrap and the ending wrap. I saturated
it all
> with epoxy. I'm now varnishing the oars and the "leathers" with
Helmsman
> spar varnish. It looks pretty good so far. I'll upload some
pictures of my
> oars and newly built June Bug soon.
>
> Michael Galvin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@h...]
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 8:39 AM
> To: Bolger Yahoo Group
> Subject: [bolger] oar "leathers"
>
>
> I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim
Michalak's
> plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm
looking for
> ideas on oar "leathers."
>
> Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends
synthetic line
> saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's
twine"
> saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something
3/32 inch
> diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something
like 1/16
> inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit
polyester
> fabric" saturated with epoxy.
>
> Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
> "leathers"?
>
> Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by
some other
> name?
>
> Michael Galvin
> Muskegon, MI
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
The Puget Sound TSCA site has an article on wrapping the oarlock, rather
than the oar, in leather. It uses less leather, can't slip down the oar and
removes the temptation to anchor your leather/cord/plastic collar with nails
that can weaken the oar. (Says he who has plastic "leathers" firmly tacked
to his oars -- I've broken an oarlock, but never an oar.)
The article is athttp://www.tsca.net/puget/TSCA_Vol5-No1.htm
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 1:40 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] oar "leathers"
Thanks to all who replied to my search for ideas on oar "leathers." I
decided to wrap the loom with 1/8th inch braided dacron. I used small brads
to fix in place the starting wrap and the ending wrap. I saturated it all
with epoxy. I'm now varnishing the oars and the "leathers" with Helmsman
spar varnish. It looks pretty good so far. I'll upload some pictures of my
oars and newly built June Bug soon.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 8:39 AM
To: Bolger Yahoo Group
Subject: [bolger] oar "leathers"
I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim Michalak's
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
than the oar, in leather. It uses less leather, can't slip down the oar and
removes the temptation to anchor your leather/cord/plastic collar with nails
that can weaken the oar. (Says he who has plastic "leathers" firmly tacked
to his oars -- I've broken an oarlock, but never an oar.)
The article is athttp://www.tsca.net/puget/TSCA_Vol5-No1.htm
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 1:40 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] oar "leathers"
Thanks to all who replied to my search for ideas on oar "leathers." I
decided to wrap the loom with 1/8th inch braided dacron. I used small brads
to fix in place the starting wrap and the ending wrap. I saturated it all
with epoxy. I'm now varnishing the oars and the "leathers" with Helmsman
spar varnish. It looks pretty good so far. I'll upload some pictures of my
oars and newly built June Bug soon.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 8:39 AM
To: Bolger Yahoo Group
Subject: [bolger] oar "leathers"
I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim Michalak's
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Thanks to all who replied to my search for ideas on oar "leathers." I
decided to wrap the loom with 1/8th inch braided dacron. I used small brads
to fix in place the starting wrap and the ending wrap. I saturated it all
with epoxy. I'm now varnishing the oars and the "leathers" with Helmsman
spar varnish. It looks pretty good so far. I'll upload some pictures of my
oars and newly built June Bug soon.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 8:39 AM
To: Bolger Yahoo Group
Subject: [bolger] oar "leathers"
I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim Michalak's
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
decided to wrap the loom with 1/8th inch braided dacron. I used small brads
to fix in place the starting wrap and the ending wrap. I saturated it all
with epoxy. I'm now varnishing the oars and the "leathers" with Helmsman
spar varnish. It looks pretty good so far. I'll upload some pictures of my
oars and newly built June Bug soon.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2001 8:39 AM
To: Bolger Yahoo Group
Subject: [bolger] oar "leathers"
I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim Michalak's
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I have found that 3/16 cheap braided nylon rope works just fine.
It does have its problems getting tight, but seems work.
The problem is not especially the line, but the "Art" of having
neat wraps.
Start by marking on you oars where you want the "Leathers"
Take about 8" of line, and lay it down your oar from one of the marks.
Begin wrapping around oar, and over line, about 6-7 wraps, pulling
as tight as you can. Then, pull on 8" line to tighten it up.
Unwrap a couple of wraps, and cut and burn 8" line as close as you
can to "Tight" wraps. Continue wrapping as tight as you can until
you are about 1/4" past other mark. Cut line about 8" longer.
Then, hold everything tight, and loosen last 4-5 wraps so you can
tuck 8" extra back under those wraps and out. Twist those wraps back
as tight as you can. Then pull hard on end of 8" line sticking out
to tighten everything up. Cut and burn 8" line as close as you can
to tight wraps, and tuck it under. Push end wraps over that, to
close gap,and again go back and twist last wraps as tight as you can.
Go back and retwist everyting and make sure there are no gaps
between wraps. Should end up with nice tight wraps, with both
ends neatly tucked under last 4-5 wraps.
When you are happy, slather everything with epoxy. Can use UV
varnish over everything, but I have found that just epoxy works
just fine.
Frustrating when you first try it to get everything tight, but
after a couple of times, it still frustrating, but fun.
Have used this technique on several set of oars for small boats,
including a couple of drift boats that get some serious use,
and seems to work fine.
I guess you could use smaller line, but 3/16 works for me.
Lots of fun, and if you screw up you're only out a couple of
bucks, and several hours of time. It works fine.
Actually easier to do than describe.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
It does have its problems getting tight, but seems work.
The problem is not especially the line, but the "Art" of having
neat wraps.
Start by marking on you oars where you want the "Leathers"
Take about 8" of line, and lay it down your oar from one of the marks.
Begin wrapping around oar, and over line, about 6-7 wraps, pulling
as tight as you can. Then, pull on 8" line to tighten it up.
Unwrap a couple of wraps, and cut and burn 8" line as close as you
can to "Tight" wraps. Continue wrapping as tight as you can until
you are about 1/4" past other mark. Cut line about 8" longer.
Then, hold everything tight, and loosen last 4-5 wraps so you can
tuck 8" extra back under those wraps and out. Twist those wraps back
as tight as you can. Then pull hard on end of 8" line sticking out
to tighten everything up. Cut and burn 8" line as close as you can
to tight wraps, and tuck it under. Push end wraps over that, to
close gap,and again go back and twist last wraps as tight as you can.
Go back and retwist everyting and make sure there are no gaps
between wraps. Should end up with nice tight wraps, with both
ends neatly tucked under last 4-5 wraps.
When you are happy, slather everything with epoxy. Can use UV
varnish over everything, but I have found that just epoxy works
just fine.
Frustrating when you first try it to get everything tight, but
after a couple of times, it still frustrating, but fun.
Have used this technique on several set of oars for small boats,
including a couple of drift boats that get some serious use,
and seems to work fine.
I guess you could use smaller line, but 3/16 works for me.
Lots of fun, and if you screw up you're only out a couple of
bucks, and several hours of time. It works fine.
Actually easier to do than describe.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@e..., "Michael Galvin" <michaelgalvin@h...> wrote:
> I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim
Michalak's
> plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm
looking for
> ideas on oar "leathers."
>
> Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends
synthetic line
> saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's
twine"
> saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something
3/32 inch
> diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something
like 1/16
> inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit
polyester
> fabric" saturated with epoxy.
>
> Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
> "leathers"?
>
> Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by
some other
> name?
>
> Michael Galvin
> Muskegon, MI
Try Memphis Net and Twine for cheap cordage, hanging twine, rope etc.
http://www.memphisnet.net/
I have used them for several decades, they will send you a nice catalog for free. Good source if you
don't live in a fishing community. Their prices are such that they are competitive even in Alaska
with the shipping costs.
HJ
StepHydro@...wrote:
% Harrywelshman@...
http://www.memphisnet.net/
I have used them for several decades, they will send you a nice catalog for free. Good source if you
don't live in a fishing community. Their prices are such that they are competitive even in Alaska
with the shipping costs.
HJ
StepHydro@...wrote:
> In a message dated 05/28/2001 8:<BR36:<BR03 AM_ _ _ _ _
> Eastern Daylight ,michaelgalvin@...writes:> Anyone out there have any
> experience with such do-it-yourself oar
> > "leathers"?
>
> I've made them using, uh, "leather", which works well :-)
>
> I've made them using "tarred" seine twine which comes in a lot of different
> diameters. I believe I used something about 1/8" diameter, saturated with
> good ole spar varnish. I don't like to put nails in the looms, so I used a
> serving loop to finish the ends. The twine lasted forever, but the serving
> did come loose and I ended up having to use a nail to keep it tight. If I
> ever do it again, I'll squirt epoxy up the serving to keep that loop in place.
>
> I spliced a rope grommet aronud the top of the "leather leathers" :-) but
> couldn't get it tight enough... had to nail that 'un, too.
>
> Cheers/Carron
% Harrywelshman@...
Hi Michael,
Don't get hung up on the label "Masons Twine". I used twine labelled
"Cable Cord". It's all just reasonably tight woven cotton or
polyester twine and the same company makes most of it. Try Ace
Hardware though I suspect the twine you found at Home Depot would
work
just fine. Don't however use the nylon stuff it just doesn't want to
cooperate. I varnished my wrapping and have since painted my oars.
The
objective of course is to prevent the wood from wearing so anything
works. If you would like I'll send you a few yards of what I have.
Just tell me the diameter of your oar where you want to wrap and how
much of the oar you want to wrap. Leathers are expensive especially
from the "WoodenBoat store".
Bob Chamberland
Suttons Bay
Don't get hung up on the label "Masons Twine". I used twine labelled
"Cable Cord". It's all just reasonably tight woven cotton or
polyester twine and the same company makes most of it. Try Ace
Hardware though I suspect the twine you found at Home Depot would
work
just fine. Don't however use the nylon stuff it just doesn't want to
cooperate. I varnished my wrapping and have since painted my oars.
The
objective of course is to prevent the wood from wearing so anything
works. If you would like I'll send you a few yards of what I have.
Just tell me the diameter of your oar where you want to wrap and how
much of the oar you want to wrap. Leathers are expensive especially
from the "WoodenBoat store".
Bob Chamberland
Suttons Bay
--- In bolger@y..., "Michael Galvin" <michaelgalvin@h...> wrote:
> I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim
Michalak's
> plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm
looking for
> ideas on oar "leathers."
>
> Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends
synthetic line
> saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's
twine"
> saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something
3/32
inch
> diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something
like
1/16
> inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit
polyester
> fabric" saturated with epoxy.
>
> Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
> "leathers"?
>
> Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by
some other
> name?
>
> Michael Galvin
> Muskegon, MI
In a message dated 05/28/2001 8:<BR36:<BR03 AM
Eastern Daylight ,michaelgalvin@...writes:> Anyone out there have any
experience with such do-it-yourself oar
I've made them using "tarred" seine twine which comes in a lot of different
diameters. I believe I used something about 1/8" diameter, saturated with
good ole spar varnish. I don't like to put nails in the looms, so I used a
serving loop to finish the ends. The twine lasted forever, but the serving
did come loose and I ended up having to use a nail to keep it tight. If I
ever do it again, I'll squirt epoxy up the serving to keep that loop in place.
I spliced a rope grommet aronud the top of the "leather leathers" :-) but
couldn't get it tight enough... had to nail that 'un, too.
Cheers/Carron
Eastern Daylight ,michaelgalvin@...writes:> Anyone out there have any
experience with such do-it-yourself oar
> "leathers"?I've made them using, uh, "leather", which works well :-)
I've made them using "tarred" seine twine which comes in a lot of different
diameters. I believe I used something about 1/8" diameter, saturated with
good ole spar varnish. I don't like to put nails in the looms, so I used a
serving loop to finish the ends. The twine lasted forever, but the serving
did come loose and I ended up having to use a nail to keep it tight. If I
ever do it again, I'll squirt epoxy up the serving to keep that loop in place.
I spliced a rope grommet aronud the top of the "leather leathers" :-) but
couldn't get it tight enough... had to nail that 'un, too.
Cheers/Carron
I've just finished making oars for my new June Bug, using Jim Michalak's
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI
plans, which are based on R.D. "Pete" Cullers designs. Now I'm looking for
ideas on oar "leathers."
Dynamite Payson in "Build the New Instant Boats" recommends synthetic line
saturated with epoxy. Jim Michalak recommends "synthetic mason's twine"
saturated with varnish. He describes mason's twine as something 3/32 inch
diameter. The only stuff I can find at Home Depot is something like 1/16
inch diameter. Dave Carnell suggests two wraps of "double knit polyester
fabric" saturated with epoxy.
Anyone out there have any experience with such do-it-yourself oar
"leathers"?
Can anyone suggest where I might find "mason's twine", perhaps by some other
name?
Michael Galvin
Muskegon, MI