[bolger] Re: Teal and wallboard screws
BO>One tip I learned about lining up frames, stem and sternpost at the very end
BO>that process on Windsprint:
BO>Temporarily attach everything with sheetrock screws. When you're satisfied
BO>is right with the world, back out the screws a few turns, leaving a gap. Us
BO>a tongue depressor, butter knife or the like, you can get the epoxy/glue in
BO>joint. Then drive the sheetrock screws back in tight and nail every 2 inche
BO>or so. After nailing, back out the shhetrock screws before everything harde
BO>up.
If you're using epoxy, you should not need nails at all, since the epoxy
joint should be stronger than the mechanical fasteners. Most Instant
Boats and relatives in this part of the world, up to and including AS29s
(and Norwalk Is Sharpies) are devoid of mechanical fasteners other than
for attaching deck hardware etc. Flying Tadpole has 24 ringnails in
total. In most cases, clamping is by a combination of clamps and drywall
(sheetrock, wallboard, Gyprock, plasterboard, whatever) screws. Using
the screws allows setting up dry for checking, taking totally apart for
easy buttering with epoxy, and screwing back together once glue is
applied. Seehttp://www.ace.net.au/schooner/newtech.htm(Flying
Tadpole's building tips, not just a pretty face) Screws are left in till
the epoxy cures, will come out easily. Screws need wood softening to
avoid marking the hull.
If you're using lesser glues (resorcinol, urea formaldehyde, other
non-epoxies) then you need the mechanical fasteners in permanently since
the glues simply aren't strong enough on their own.
To my knowledge, no boat of the hundreds now built around here using
Bote-Cote, System 3 or WEST boatbuilding epoxies and devoid of
mechanical fasteners has ever come apart (in 12 years). on the other
hand, a number built with mechanical fasteners and lesser glues have (
including the local FOlding Schooner).
Tim & Flying Tadpole
BO>that process on Windsprint:
BO>Temporarily attach everything with sheetrock screws. When you're satisfied
BO>is right with the world, back out the screws a few turns, leaving a gap. Us
BO>a tongue depressor, butter knife or the like, you can get the epoxy/glue in
BO>joint. Then drive the sheetrock screws back in tight and nail every 2 inche
BO>or so. After nailing, back out the shhetrock screws before everything harde
BO>up.
If you're using epoxy, you should not need nails at all, since the epoxy
joint should be stronger than the mechanical fasteners. Most Instant
Boats and relatives in this part of the world, up to and including AS29s
(and Norwalk Is Sharpies) are devoid of mechanical fasteners other than
for attaching deck hardware etc. Flying Tadpole has 24 ringnails in
total. In most cases, clamping is by a combination of clamps and drywall
(sheetrock, wallboard, Gyprock, plasterboard, whatever) screws. Using
the screws allows setting up dry for checking, taking totally apart for
easy buttering with epoxy, and screwing back together once glue is
applied. Seehttp://www.ace.net.au/schooner/newtech.htm(Flying
Tadpole's building tips, not just a pretty face) Screws are left in till
the epoxy cures, will come out easily. Screws need wood softening to
avoid marking the hull.
If you're using lesser glues (resorcinol, urea formaldehyde, other
non-epoxies) then you need the mechanical fasteners in permanently since
the glues simply aren't strong enough on their own.
To my knowledge, no boat of the hundreds now built around here using
Bote-Cote, System 3 or WEST boatbuilding epoxies and devoid of
mechanical fasteners has ever come apart (in 12 years). on the other
hand, a number built with mechanical fasteners and lesser glues have (
including the local FOlding Schooner).
Tim & Flying Tadpole