Re: [bolger] Widely Read
Just thought that I'd let the group know that it is
widely read. I'm picking up my e-mail in Lhasa, Tibet.
I actually went for a boat ride up here. We crossed a
really big river to view a temple. The boat was about
35' long and 15' wide. An open scow type. Caravel
planked. Must have been at least ten full height bulk
heads. The boat fasteners of choice appear to be some
sort of staple about 6"-8" long. Used to fasten the
planks to the bulkheads and the planks of the
bulkheads together.
The power plant is a ubiquitous Chinese diesel driving
an outboard unit through 1, 2 or 3 v-belts. I only saw
boats using one or two v-belts but I bet the really
affluent use all three. The same engine is used in
two, three and four wheeled tractors. It has an open
well which the operator keeps filled with water. The
engine and propulsion system seems perfectly suited
for a Bolger design expedition.
If my video camera hadn't craped out in the first five
minutes of the trip, I'd post some pictures.
Phil Smith
Who is usually in San Francisco
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widely read. I'm picking up my e-mail in Lhasa, Tibet.
I actually went for a boat ride up here. We crossed a
really big river to view a temple. The boat was about
35' long and 15' wide. An open scow type. Caravel
planked. Must have been at least ten full height bulk
heads. The boat fasteners of choice appear to be some
sort of staple about 6"-8" long. Used to fasten the
planks to the bulkheads and the planks of the
bulkheads together.
The power plant is a ubiquitous Chinese diesel driving
an outboard unit through 1, 2 or 3 v-belts. I only saw
boats using one or two v-belts but I bet the really
affluent use all three. The same engine is used in
two, three and four wheeled tractors. It has an open
well which the operator keeps filled with water. The
engine and propulsion system seems perfectly suited
for a Bolger design expedition.
If my video camera hadn't craped out in the first five
minutes of the trip, I'd post some pictures.
Phil Smith
Who is usually in San Francisco
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
Peter,
Thanks for the tips. Thats not a bad idea, clear finishing
the outer motor board. Yes I have the motor, a new 3.3 Mariner.
(bought for my current Green Island 15 but with Micro in mind) I
built up a frame to test the clearance before I made the cut in the
transom, it just clears the top on one side if mounted centrally, if
I move it a few inches to one side, it clears it by much more.
Regards
Col
Thanks for the tips. Thats not a bad idea, clear finishing
the outer motor board. Yes I have the motor, a new 3.3 Mariner.
(bought for my current Green Island 15 but with Micro in mind) I
built up a frame to test the clearance before I made the cut in the
transom, it just clears the top on one side if mounted centrally, if
I move it a few inches to one side, it clears it by much more.
Regards
Col
--- In bolger@y..., ellengaest@b... wrote:
> Hi Colin,
> Strictly speaking,there would be no problem with adding the
inner
> and outer motorboards at this point.
> However,you may wish to keep some things in mind:
> 1)Do you plan on having the motorboards(especially the outer
one)
> painted or varnished?If you are using a nice piece of
tropical
> hardwood,say mahogany,then perhaps it is best installed later
on
> when most of the work on the transom is completed.That way
you
> protect it from"accidents" and the varnish finish will remain
> intact.
>
> 2)Have you already the intended motor for your MICRO? I found
it
> very easy to adjust and set the motorboards once the
transom
> was installed and the hull turned upright.The jaws on your
> outboard may not be exactly to the dimensions Bolger
specifies
> on the plans and thus the motorboards will need some fine
> tuning.That is,you will be hoisting the motor a few times
until
> it sits right.This is best accomplished on a completely
> installed transom solidly fixed in place.
>
>
> One further thought;I do not know if newer plans show any
changes
> to the top edge of the transom especially over the outboard cutout
but
> if there is a straight across piece with no opening over the
outboard
> cutout(am I making any sense?) then you may not be able to tilt
your
> outboard all the way up and out of the water.I have a 5hp Mercury
and
> found that I had to leave the top of the outboard cutout off
otherwise
> my motor would not achieve the fully raised/tilted postion.There is
a
> picture or two in the FILES section showing my transom and outboard
> along with the hoarse used to secure the mainsheet block to.
>
> So there you have it Colin,my quick .02 cents worth.Hope it
> helps!I also hope you're having fun with the building,so far,and do
> post progress pictures if possible!
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,itching to get down to the boat for some cool
> breezes,cooler vistas and cold beers,once Pesky The Crew gets up,on
> the shores of the St.Lawrence................
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., colcath@o... wrote:
> >
> >
> > Just a quicky,
> > I have finished the bow and stern transoms on
Micro.
> > On the stern transom, Bolger doesn't add the outer and inner
motor
> > boards until page 2 of the building key. I'm not usually one
to
> > blindly follow instructions (gets me into trouble assembling
things
> > on Christmas morning...), but is there any problem adding them
> before
> > the hull is assembled, while the transom is flat on the ground
and
> > easier to glue?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Col Mooney
Hi Colin,
Strictly speaking,there would be no problem with adding the inner
and outer motorboards at this point.
However,you may wish to keep some things in mind:
1)Do you plan on having the motorboards(especially the outer one)
painted or varnished?If you are using a nice piece of tropical
hardwood,say mahogany,then perhaps it is best installed later on
when most of the work on the transom is completed.That way you
protect it from"accidents" and the varnish finish will remain
intact.
2)Have you already the intended motor for your MICRO? I found it
very easy to adjust and set the motorboards once the transom
was installed and the hull turned upright.The jaws on your
outboard may not be exactly to the dimensions Bolger specifies
on the plans and thus the motorboards will need some fine
tuning.That is,you will be hoisting the motor a few times until
it sits right.This is best accomplished on a completely
installed transom solidly fixed in place.
One further thought;I do not know if newer plans show any changes
to the top edge of the transom especially over the outboard cutout but
if there is a straight across piece with no opening over the outboard
cutout(am I making any sense?) then you may not be able to tilt your
outboard all the way up and out of the water.I have a 5hp Mercury and
found that I had to leave the top of the outboard cutout off otherwise
my motor would not achieve the fully raised/tilted postion.There is a
picture or two in the FILES section showing my transom and outboard
along with the hoarse used to secure the mainsheet block to.
So there you have it Colin,my quick .02 cents worth.Hope it
helps!I also hope you're having fun with the building,so far,and do
post progress pictures if possible!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,itching to get down to the boat for some cool
breezes,cooler vistas and cold beers,once Pesky The Crew gets up,on
the shores of the St.Lawrence................
Strictly speaking,there would be no problem with adding the inner
and outer motorboards at this point.
However,you may wish to keep some things in mind:
1)Do you plan on having the motorboards(especially the outer one)
painted or varnished?If you are using a nice piece of tropical
hardwood,say mahogany,then perhaps it is best installed later on
when most of the work on the transom is completed.That way you
protect it from"accidents" and the varnish finish will remain
intact.
2)Have you already the intended motor for your MICRO? I found it
very easy to adjust and set the motorboards once the transom
was installed and the hull turned upright.The jaws on your
outboard may not be exactly to the dimensions Bolger specifies
on the plans and thus the motorboards will need some fine
tuning.That is,you will be hoisting the motor a few times until
it sits right.This is best accomplished on a completely
installed transom solidly fixed in place.
One further thought;I do not know if newer plans show any changes
to the top edge of the transom especially over the outboard cutout but
if there is a straight across piece with no opening over the outboard
cutout(am I making any sense?) then you may not be able to tilt your
outboard all the way up and out of the water.I have a 5hp Mercury and
found that I had to leave the top of the outboard cutout off otherwise
my motor would not achieve the fully raised/tilted postion.There is a
picture or two in the FILES section showing my transom and outboard
along with the hoarse used to secure the mainsheet block to.
So there you have it Colin,my quick .02 cents worth.Hope it
helps!I also hope you're having fun with the building,so far,and do
post progress pictures if possible!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,itching to get down to the boat for some cool
breezes,cooler vistas and cold beers,once Pesky The Crew gets up,on
the shores of the St.Lawrence................
--- In bolger@y..., colcath@o... wrote:
>
>
> Just a quicky,
> I have finished the bow and stern transoms on Micro.
> On the stern transom, Bolger doesn't add the outer and inner motor
> boards until page 2 of the building key. I'm not usually one to
> blindly follow instructions (gets me into trouble assembling things
> on Christmas morning...), but is there any problem adding them
before
> the hull is assembled, while the transom is flat on the ground and
> easier to glue?
>
> Regards
>
> Col Mooney
Just a quicky,
I have finished the bow and stern transoms on Micro.
On the stern transom, Bolger doesn't add the outer and inner motor
boards until page 2 of the building key. I'm not usually one to
blindly follow instructions (gets me into trouble assembling things
on Christmas morning...), but is there any problem adding them before
the hull is assembled, while the transom is flat on the ground and
easier to glue?
Regards
Col Mooney
I have finished the bow and stern transoms on Micro.
On the stern transom, Bolger doesn't add the outer and inner motor
boards until page 2 of the building key. I'm not usually one to
blindly follow instructions (gets me into trouble assembling things
on Christmas morning...), but is there any problem adding them before
the hull is assembled, while the transom is flat on the ground and
easier to glue?
Regards
Col Mooney