Re: tools, thoughts while sitting.
Peter,
I think the first thing to modify is the type of machine. My
sister gave me a 6" grinder/polisher. It chews up discs real fast.
Too fast to have any cost/time benefit applied.
I agree that it is great when it is working. I will try to
reduce the size of the rubber disc first. That should allow the
sandpaper to flex more when encountering a hard edge. I will remove
the handle. It is useless anyway. I have been using 80 weight
paper.
I may just go out and buy a decent 5" grinder instead. I find
that the cost and availability of the 6" paper may be better spent on
a new machine. When it works it is wonderful, but you do have to be
careful.
It was fun to test out the cockpit today with scrap pieces of
plywood. I will buy the real stuff tomorrow. glass overall in
anycase. My thoughts of a sleeping bag and a sky full of stars had
my daydreaming far longer than necessary.
David Jost
"pedal to the metal"
I think the first thing to modify is the type of machine. My
sister gave me a 6" grinder/polisher. It chews up discs real fast.
Too fast to have any cost/time benefit applied.
I agree that it is great when it is working. I will try to
reduce the size of the rubber disc first. That should allow the
sandpaper to flex more when encountering a hard edge. I will remove
the handle. It is useless anyway. I have been using 80 weight
paper.
I may just go out and buy a decent 5" grinder instead. I find
that the cost and availability of the 6" paper may be better spent on
a new machine. When it works it is wonderful, but you do have to be
careful.
It was fun to test out the cockpit today with scrap pieces of
plywood. I will buy the real stuff tomorrow. glass overall in
anycase. My thoughts of a sleeping bag and a sky full of stars had
my daydreaming far longer than necessary.
David Jost
"pedal to the metal"
> things must first be modified on this tool to reap max benefits.the
> 1)Remove the metal shield/guard at the head.
> 2)remove the screw on handle sticking out at the side just bellow
> head.way
> 3)Take the rubber sanding-disk mount and grind it down to about a 3
> 1/2 inch diameter by using a rasp file gripped in a vice.
> 4) Use the standard size sanding disks(4 1/2 or 5 inch disks)
> 5) use 60 to 80 weight paper.
> 6) use aluminium-oxide paper.
> 7) use only one hand to control the tool by kinda holding it the
> you would a palm sanderat
>
> The purpose of"under-sizing" the rubber sanding-disk mount is to
> allow the paper to flex easily,on edge,making for some fine sanding
> and little chance of gouging cresents.Very forgiving!
> I have come to find the weight of paper recommended works great
> the rpms produced by these grinders and that aluminium-oxide rarelyoff
> clogs and just keeps cutting and cutting and cutting.........
> Practice on scrap wood,many times if necessary and develope a
> light touch to get comfortable with this tool as you quickly round
> edges,create radiuses,do feather-edges,remove cured epoxyclumps,grind
> lead,fiber-glass,make French fries etc........tell
> Do not let the kids play with this tool,stay focused and never
> your insurance company what you have done to this tool.In shortthis
> time,you will work neater,quicker and easier!
> I'll do some drawings of the best trick of all you can do with
> tool and post them this weekend.It will save mucho grief on yournext
> boat(there will be a"next one"......of course :-D ).It was shown tome
> by a real master boatbuilder and I swear by it(never at it!)!!!and
> So,do not throw out the right-angle grinder!It may well be the
> thinking mans best kept boatbuilding tool/secret!!!!
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,soon to be sketching,on the shores of the very wet
> rainy St.Lawrence..........interior
>
> --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > Dear Group.
> > The micro "Firefly" is progressing slowly but surely. I am now
> onto
> > installing the cockpit this weekend, and a majority of the
> > is now epoxied.is
> > I have learned that a Sears Craftsman 6" right-angled grinder
> > pretty much a useless tool. Yes, it removes material veryquickly,
> > but it chews through 6" discs faster than "green corn through thebetter.
> new
> > maid." My electric drill with a 5" sanding disc works much
>is
> > A Makita palm sander is wonderful. I just replaced the base
> > after 15 years of hard work. It is good a new.
> > There is no substitute for a good rasp.
> > Other thoughts?
> >
> > David Jost
> > "scraping the epoxy and sawdust out from my teeth. The dust
> > still clearing."
Hi David, everyone to their own of course. Just one point you
brought up though regarding flooding....in fact built to plan your
boat will have 2 lower water entry points than mine....the rear vent
and your dogged down hatch. The sill of my cabin hatch will remain
the same as the plans, and be the lowest point of entry.
It sounds as though you have an exposed mooring. My Micro Oink has
been on an exposed mooring for 2 years, and this has proved very
demanding on her. I am now moving to a sheltered drying out
mooring. In 2 years
-mast whip broke the masthead wind indicator and a kevlar topping
lift which I bowsed to the stern to stop the whip
-the bow dancing up and down wore the mooring chain links very quickly
-the stern dancing stripped the anti-foul from the rear quarter of
the bottom
-the constant pitching gradually wore clearance around the mast fid
and mast step, which led to the fid support breaking away with the
outer veneer of side ply intact.........the mast came back against
the cabin front, luckily tangled in rope and not wrecking the hull.
I would add that my mast is too heavy, being made from the last of a
run of oregon imported, and very sappy. This would have aggravated
the inertia problems.
However, my boat was built light, to plan, and apart from the above
problems has survived some pretty bad coditions. Possibly because
she is so light like a ping pong ball. The Payson glassed butts used
for the sides are as good as the day they were made.
Regards,
DonB
brought up though regarding flooding....in fact built to plan your
boat will have 2 lower water entry points than mine....the rear vent
and your dogged down hatch. The sill of my cabin hatch will remain
the same as the plans, and be the lowest point of entry.
It sounds as though you have an exposed mooring. My Micro Oink has
been on an exposed mooring for 2 years, and this has proved very
demanding on her. I am now moving to a sheltered drying out
mooring. In 2 years
-mast whip broke the masthead wind indicator and a kevlar topping
lift which I bowsed to the stern to stop the whip
-the bow dancing up and down wore the mooring chain links very quickly
-the stern dancing stripped the anti-foul from the rear quarter of
the bottom
-the constant pitching gradually wore clearance around the mast fid
and mast step, which led to the fid support breaking away with the
outer veneer of side ply intact.........the mast came back against
the cabin front, luckily tangled in rope and not wrecking the hull.
I would add that my mast is too heavy, being made from the last of a
run of oregon imported, and very sappy. This would have aggravated
the inertia problems.
However, my boat was built light, to plan, and apart from the above
problems has survived some pretty bad coditions. Possibly because
she is so light like a ping pong ball. The Payson glassed butts used
for the sides are as good as the day they were made.
Regards,
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Don, I had thought of that, but I think that the security of
having
> the hatch to dog down tight is a good idea. I am putting
in "Wiley"
> type windows that are like Bolger's ventilators, but have a small
lip
> all around them. A piece of lexan is held in place by some 3/4"
> large wooden clamps to dog them down and keep water out. This boat
> is going to live on a mooring on Cape Cod, and thus I want to be
sure
> that she is watertight when not attended, and that I have the
ability
> to ensure a water tight envelope if it suddenly gets nasty on a
long
> sail to Nantucket or the Vineyard. Peace of mind is a good thing.
> I have seen self-bailing cockpits become fabulous "reverse
> scuppers". All it takes is for the level of the cockpit to get
down
> past the level of the waterline. We once rescued a small
Herreshoff
> double ender off the bottom of the harbor that was "tinkered with"
in
> such a manner. Her footwell had been modified to be self-bailing
> which became a water intake when the cabin took on rain water
> accidentally.
> Best tool invented, 6" block plane.
>
> David Jost
> "off to the cockpit stringers and hatch beams. "
>
> --- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:
> > David, have you considered building a selfdraining cockpit
instead
> of
> > the hatch as on the plans? I saw one under construction
somewhere
> on
On the subject of tools, I found a while back that the blade from my
plane makes a nice scraper for smoothing down epoxy lumps. Maybe I'll
get one of those cabinet scrapers.
plane makes a nice scraper for smoothing down epoxy lumps. Maybe I'll
get one of those cabinet scrapers.
David,
Glad to read you are still at it!I'll bet you can almost taste
launching day!
I'd keep the cockpit as per plan.Whenever I go out sailing,the
hatch is secured closed.The sprawling space afforded by this style of
cockpit may take some getting used to but it is worth it.The trick to
comfort is cushioning.Either you have it already as an integral part
of your lower anatomy or you can buy some comfy ones at any Wal-Mart
type store.The other route is to simply develope a hard a** by sailing
regularily/daily/often....or doing alot of cycling!Some advantages
that come quickly to mind about this cockpit;you can sleep in it
without risk of falling off anywhere,crew enjoy sunbathing in
it,possiblity to assume many sitting postions,super easy to keep
clean,enough flat space to explore all the way to ecstasy at least the
first few chapters of the Karma-Sutra and the space bellow.So much
storage space,it is almost sinful!And yes,it is very very easy to
build instead of dealing with all the angles required for a more
conventional cockpit.
Now,about your right-angle grinder grief.I could not dis-agree
more!This is my number one tool of choice for boatbuilding.A few
things must first be modified on this tool to reap max benefits.
1)Remove the metal shield/guard at the head.
2)remove the screw on handle sticking out at the side just bellow the
head.
3)Take the rubber sanding-disk mount and grind it down to about a 3
1/2 inch diameter by using a rasp file gripped in a vice.
4) Use the standard size sanding disks(4 1/2 or 5 inch disks)
5) use 60 to 80 weight paper.
6) use aluminium-oxide paper.
7) use only one hand to control the tool by kinda holding it the way
you would a palm sander
The purpose of"under-sizing" the rubber sanding-disk mount is to
allow the paper to flex easily,on edge,making for some fine sanding
and little chance of gouging cresents.Very forgiving!
I have come to find the weight of paper recommended works great at
the rpms produced by these grinders and that aluminium-oxide rarely
clogs and just keeps cutting and cutting and cutting.........
Practice on scrap wood,many times if necessary and develope a
light touch to get comfortable with this tool as you quickly round off
edges,create radiuses,do feather-edges,remove cured epoxy clumps,grind
lead,fiber-glass,make French fries etc........
Do not let the kids play with this tool,stay focused and never tell
your insurance company what you have done to this tool.In short
time,you will work neater,quicker and easier!
I'll do some drawings of the best trick of all you can do with this
tool and post them this weekend.It will save mucho grief on your next
boat(there will be a"next one"......of course :-D ).It was shown to me
by a real master boatbuilder and I swear by it(never at it!)!!!
So,do not throw out the right-angle grinder!It may well be the
thinking mans best kept boatbuilding tool/secret!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,soon to be sketching,on the shores of the very wet and
rainy St.Lawrence..........
Glad to read you are still at it!I'll bet you can almost taste
launching day!
I'd keep the cockpit as per plan.Whenever I go out sailing,the
hatch is secured closed.The sprawling space afforded by this style of
cockpit may take some getting used to but it is worth it.The trick to
comfort is cushioning.Either you have it already as an integral part
of your lower anatomy or you can buy some comfy ones at any Wal-Mart
type store.The other route is to simply develope a hard a** by sailing
regularily/daily/often....or doing alot of cycling!Some advantages
that come quickly to mind about this cockpit;you can sleep in it
without risk of falling off anywhere,crew enjoy sunbathing in
it,possiblity to assume many sitting postions,super easy to keep
clean,enough flat space to explore all the way to ecstasy at least the
first few chapters of the Karma-Sutra and the space bellow.So much
storage space,it is almost sinful!And yes,it is very very easy to
build instead of dealing with all the angles required for a more
conventional cockpit.
Now,about your right-angle grinder grief.I could not dis-agree
more!This is my number one tool of choice for boatbuilding.A few
things must first be modified on this tool to reap max benefits.
1)Remove the metal shield/guard at the head.
2)remove the screw on handle sticking out at the side just bellow the
head.
3)Take the rubber sanding-disk mount and grind it down to about a 3
1/2 inch diameter by using a rasp file gripped in a vice.
4) Use the standard size sanding disks(4 1/2 or 5 inch disks)
5) use 60 to 80 weight paper.
6) use aluminium-oxide paper.
7) use only one hand to control the tool by kinda holding it the way
you would a palm sander
The purpose of"under-sizing" the rubber sanding-disk mount is to
allow the paper to flex easily,on edge,making for some fine sanding
and little chance of gouging cresents.Very forgiving!
I have come to find the weight of paper recommended works great at
the rpms produced by these grinders and that aluminium-oxide rarely
clogs and just keeps cutting and cutting and cutting.........
Practice on scrap wood,many times if necessary and develope a
light touch to get comfortable with this tool as you quickly round off
edges,create radiuses,do feather-edges,remove cured epoxy clumps,grind
lead,fiber-glass,make French fries etc........
Do not let the kids play with this tool,stay focused and never tell
your insurance company what you have done to this tool.In short
time,you will work neater,quicker and easier!
I'll do some drawings of the best trick of all you can do with this
tool and post them this weekend.It will save mucho grief on your next
boat(there will be a"next one"......of course :-D ).It was shown to me
by a real master boatbuilder and I swear by it(never at it!)!!!
So,do not throw out the right-angle grinder!It may well be the
thinking mans best kept boatbuilding tool/secret!!!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,soon to be sketching,on the shores of the very wet and
rainy St.Lawrence..........
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Dear Group.
> The micro "Firefly" is progressing slowly but surely. I am now
onto
> installing the cockpit this weekend, and a majority of the interior
> is now epoxied.
> I have learned that a Sears Craftsman 6" right-angled grinder is
> pretty much a useless tool. Yes, it removes material very quickly,
> but it chews through 6" discs faster than "green corn through the
new
> maid." My electric drill with a 5" sanding disc works much better.
> A Makita palm sander is wonderful. I just replaced the base
> after 15 years of hard work. It is good a new.
> There is no substitute for a good rasp.
> Other thoughts?
>
> David Jost
> "scraping the epoxy and sawdust out from my teeth. The dust is
> still clearing."
Don, I had thought of that, but I think that the security of having
the hatch to dog down tight is a good idea. I am putting in "Wiley"
type windows that are like Bolger's ventilators, but have a small lip
all around them. A piece of lexan is held in place by some 3/4"
large wooden clamps to dog them down and keep water out. This boat
is going to live on a mooring on Cape Cod, and thus I want to be sure
that she is watertight when not attended, and that I have the ability
to ensure a water tight envelope if it suddenly gets nasty on a long
sail to Nantucket or the Vineyard. Peace of mind is a good thing.
I have seen self-bailing cockpits become fabulous "reverse
scuppers". All it takes is for the level of the cockpit to get down
past the level of the waterline. We once rescued a small Herreshoff
double ender off the bottom of the harbor that was "tinkered with" in
such a manner. Her footwell had been modified to be self-bailing
which became a water intake when the cabin took on rain water
accidentally.
Best tool invented, 6" block plane.
David Jost
"off to the cockpit stringers and hatch beams. "
the hatch to dog down tight is a good idea. I am putting in "Wiley"
type windows that are like Bolger's ventilators, but have a small lip
all around them. A piece of lexan is held in place by some 3/4"
large wooden clamps to dog them down and keep water out. This boat
is going to live on a mooring on Cape Cod, and thus I want to be sure
that she is watertight when not attended, and that I have the ability
to ensure a water tight envelope if it suddenly gets nasty on a long
sail to Nantucket or the Vineyard. Peace of mind is a good thing.
I have seen self-bailing cockpits become fabulous "reverse
scuppers". All it takes is for the level of the cockpit to get down
past the level of the waterline. We once rescued a small Herreshoff
double ender off the bottom of the harbor that was "tinkered with" in
such a manner. Her footwell had been modified to be self-bailing
which became a water intake when the cabin took on rain water
accidentally.
Best tool invented, 6" block plane.
David Jost
"off to the cockpit stringers and hatch beams. "
--- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:
> David, have you considered building a selfdraining cockpit instead
of
> the hatch as on the plans? I saw one under construction somewhere
on
David, have you considered building a selfdraining cockpit instead of
the hatch as on the plans? I saw one under construction somewhere on
the web recently. It would be much more comfortable than dangling
your legs over the raised edge of the hatch opening, and the space
inside under the hatch is of little use anyway, especially if you use
it as a footwell. I am considering modifying Micro Oink this way,
after the false nose is finished.
DonB
the hatch as on the plans? I saw one under construction somewhere on
the web recently. It would be much more comfortable than dangling
your legs over the raised edge of the hatch opening, and the space
inside under the hatch is of little use anyway, especially if you use
it as a footwell. I am considering modifying Micro Oink this way,
after the false nose is finished.
DonB
> Dear Group.onto
> The micro "Firefly" is progressing slowly but surely. I am now
> installing the cockpit this weekend, and a majority of the interior
> is now epoxied.
> Other thoughts?
>
> David Jost
> "scraping the epoxy and sawdust out from my teeth. The dust is
> still clearing."
Dear Group.
The micro "Firefly" is progressing slowly but surely. I am now onto
installing the cockpit this weekend, and a majority of the interior
is now epoxied.
I have learned that a Sears Craftsman 6" right-angled grinder is
pretty much a useless tool. Yes, it removes material very quickly,
but it chews through 6" discs faster than "green corn through the new
maid." My electric drill with a 5" sanding disc works much better.
A Makita palm sander is wonderful. I just replaced the base
after 15 years of hard work. It is good a new.
There is no substitute for a good rasp.
Other thoughts?
David Jost
"scraping the epoxy and sawdust out from my teeth. The dust is
still clearing."
The micro "Firefly" is progressing slowly but surely. I am now onto
installing the cockpit this weekend, and a majority of the interior
is now epoxied.
I have learned that a Sears Craftsman 6" right-angled grinder is
pretty much a useless tool. Yes, it removes material very quickly,
but it chews through 6" discs faster than "green corn through the new
maid." My electric drill with a 5" sanding disc works much better.
A Makita palm sander is wonderful. I just replaced the base
after 15 years of hard work. It is good a new.
There is no substitute for a good rasp.
Other thoughts?
David Jost
"scraping the epoxy and sawdust out from my teeth. The dust is
still clearing."