Re: Adapting trailer for flat bottom boats
Chebacco uses 1/2" ply for the entire hull. It would of course be be
sheethed in glass. (probably both sides...)
It has a short keel that holds about half the centerboard. This would
be what is sitting on the rollers. Would probably cover the bottom of
the keel with aluminum rock armour. That would spread the point loads
from the rollers. The bunks would be there to guide the boat durring
launch and retrieval, and keep it from tipping and whatnot on the
trailer.
I've never had my AF2 capsize. I've seen it up to 35 degrees, and
I've gotten the back deck wet... Most interesting manuever is the
flying jibe in high winds. Be sure to move your ballast BEFORE the
boom comes across!
I don't think it would be that hard to right, even if it did capsize.
The flare on the sides, the thick bottom. Worst comes to worst, you
could crawl on top an parbuckle out with one of the ropes.
Will have to test sometime. Maybe at the fall messabout at Keystone?
Load the boat up with normal compliment, tie a rope to the top of the
mast, and one underwater to the bottom of the leeboard. Use a spring
scale and measure force vs angle... Think that would get people to
come to the messabout?!
We could try the righting experiment too!
sheethed in glass. (probably both sides...)
It has a short keel that holds about half the centerboard. This would
be what is sitting on the rollers. Would probably cover the bottom of
the keel with aluminum rock armour. That would spread the point loads
from the rollers. The bunks would be there to guide the boat durring
launch and retrieval, and keep it from tipping and whatnot on the
trailer.
I've never had my AF2 capsize. I've seen it up to 35 degrees, and
I've gotten the back deck wet... Most interesting manuever is the
flying jibe in high winds. Be sure to move your ballast BEFORE the
boom comes across!
I don't think it would be that hard to right, even if it did capsize.
The flare on the sides, the thick bottom. Worst comes to worst, you
could crawl on top an parbuckle out with one of the ropes.
Will have to test sometime. Maybe at the fall messabout at Keystone?
Load the boat up with normal compliment, tie a rope to the top of the
mast, and one underwater to the bottom of the leeboard. Use a spring
scale and measure force vs angle... Think that would get people to
come to the messabout?!
We could try the righting experiment too!
--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
> --
>
> Good morning Capt. Richard!
>
> I am not too familiar with the Chebacco so I really don't
> have an opinion as to trailer needs. I would not want to
> use rollers on a planked hull, for fear of starting seams,
> or on a plywood hull with a relatively thin skin supported
> by frames and stringers. For the "instant" style boat, where
> it appears the lack of frames and stringers are compensated for
> by a relatively thick bottom, I don't think rollers are a problem.
>
> I did not want the rollers bearing on the bottom ply
> of my AF4, so I have them bearing against the 2 by 4 (laying flat,
> not on edge) keel and there doesn't seem to be any problems, even
> when I am in the boat while it is on the trailer. Roller spacing is
> about 2 feet or so in the front half of the boat, but much wider
> back by the bunks. I did not even check to see if the rollers
> were under bulkheads. My main concern was placing the rollers so
> that the boat, when winched up the trailer, would not drag on
> the trailer frame.
>
> The Chebacco is a nice-looking boat, but probably beyound my
> skill-level at this time. One of the designs that I am considering
> is the AF2. Have you ever had yours capsize, and if so, how
difficult
> was the recovery?
>
> Something like a Chebacco may be further down the road for me,
> but not for the next project.
>
> Later
>
> Max
--
Good morning Capt. Richard!
I am not too familiar with the Chebacco so I really don't
have an opinion as to trailer needs. I would not want to
use rollers on a planked hull, for fear of starting seams,
or on a plywood hull with a relatively thin skin supported
by frames and stringers. For the "instant" style boat, where
it appears the lack of frames and stringers are compensated for
by a relatively thick bottom, I don't think rollers are a problem.
I did not want the rollers bearing on the bottom ply
of my AF4, so I have them bearing against the 2 by 4 (laying flat,
not on edge) keel and there doesn't seem to be any problems, even
when I am in the boat while it is on the trailer. Roller spacing is
about 2 feet or so in the front half of the boat, but much wider
back by the bunks. I did not even check to see if the rollers
were under bulkheads. My main concern was placing the rollers so
that the boat, when winched up the trailer, would not drag on
the trailer frame.
The Chebacco is a nice-looking boat, but probably beyound my
skill-level at this time. One of the designs that I am considering
is the AF2. Have you ever had yours capsize, and if so, how difficult
was the recovery?
Something like a Chebacco may be further down the road for me,
but not for the next project.
Later
Max
Good morning Capt. Richard!
I am not too familiar with the Chebacco so I really don't
have an opinion as to trailer needs. I would not want to
use rollers on a planked hull, for fear of starting seams,
or on a plywood hull with a relatively thin skin supported
by frames and stringers. For the "instant" style boat, where
it appears the lack of frames and stringers are compensated for
by a relatively thick bottom, I don't think rollers are a problem.
I did not want the rollers bearing on the bottom ply
of my AF4, so I have them bearing against the 2 by 4 (laying flat,
not on edge) keel and there doesn't seem to be any problems, even
when I am in the boat while it is on the trailer. Roller spacing is
about 2 feet or so in the front half of the boat, but much wider
back by the bunks. I did not even check to see if the rollers
were under bulkheads. My main concern was placing the rollers so
that the boat, when winched up the trailer, would not drag on
the trailer frame.
The Chebacco is a nice-looking boat, but probably beyound my
skill-level at this time. One of the designs that I am considering
is the AF2. Have you ever had yours capsize, and if so, how difficult
was the recovery?
Something like a Chebacco may be further down the road for me,
but not for the next project.
Later
Max
--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
stomping grounds, in the fall. They have a pretty decent state park.
I'll do some recon, pick a nice sandy beach for boats, away from
yucky boat traffic, etc. I'll post to the list when I figure it out.
extention, as long as you had enough water to float the boat, you
could have a fold out ramp with rollers on it for your keel. You
could launch in VERY shallow water. Say, 4 inches...
I would be concerned with the point loads the rollers put on keel. I
suppose, with relativly light boats like ours, it's not really a big
deal. Are your rollers located under bulkheads?
I was thinking with Chebacco I would go with a roller every 6 inches
or so. To much?
>Actualy, I'm planing on setting one up at Lake Keystone, my local
> Hey, Capt. Richard!
>
> How 'bout a Messabout on TableRock/Bull Shoals/ Beaver/ Grand
> Lake?
>
stomping grounds, in the fall. They have a pretty decent state park.
I'll do some recon, pick a nice sandy beach for boats, away from
yucky boat traffic, etc. I'll post to the list when I figure it out.
> Since my bunks pass under the companionway bulkhead, motor wellthe
> forward bulkhead, and the transom, I am not much concerned about
> bottom flexxing that Jim addresses in his newsletter concerningI like the idea of launching without getting the trailer wet. An
> trailers. Since the bottom is usually the thickest, and heaviest,
> part of the boat, I would argue that bottom flex is probably not
> a concern on any open boat with little structure bearing down on the
> sides.
>
extention, as long as you had enough water to float the boat, you
could have a fold out ramp with rollers on it for your keel. You
could launch in VERY shallow water. Say, 4 inches...
I would be concerned with the point loads the rollers put on keel. I
suppose, with relativly light boats like ours, it's not really a big
deal. Are your rollers located under bulkheads?
I was thinking with Chebacco I would go with a roller every 6 inches
or so. To much?
--- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
How 'bout a Messabout on TableRock/Bull Shoals/ Beaver/ Grand
Lake?
My goal, not necessarily realized, when I set-up my trailer
was to be able to launch and retrieve without getting the trailer
hubs wet. So I have 4 keel rollers and a pair of 8-ft longitudinal
bunks. On very steep ramps, i will have a problem with the straight
stem trying to hit the next roller in line, on the vertical surface
of the stem. I may need to add one more roller to close-up the
distance between them. Another concern with the bunks is one has
to watch for a tendency for the chines to try to get stuck between
them rather than to climb them. The keel roller at the rear of the
frame will usually prevent this unless the trailer is submerged too
deep.
Since my bunks pass under the companionway bulkhead, motor well
forward bulkhead, and the transom, I am not much concerned about the
bottom flexxing that Jim addresses in his newsletter concerning
trailers. Since the bottom is usually the thickest, and heaviest,
part of the boat, I would argue that bottom flex is probably not
a concern on any open boat with little structure bearing down on the
sides.
A bigger concern of mine, primarily with powerboats, is that
the transom should have support directly underneath it to support
the weight of the outboard, or in my case, two outboards. This is why
I have my bunks extend about 4 inches aft of the transom, which also
provides a handy place to fasten transom tie-downs. A sailboat with
a small auxiliary outboard doesn't worry me as much.
Personally, I believe that it is harder to "set-up" a trailer to
handle a "pointy-bow" flat-bottom boat, than a vee-bottom boat,
primarily due to that deep, straight stem. A raked stem with rounded
fore foot will not try to snag every cross member of the frame or
drag on the tongue.
Later
Max
> Hey, Max. Hub is working fine!no
>
> Would add, I have only athwart-ship bunks on my trailer, and have
> problem winching it up. I do have to lift the nose a bit to get iton
> the forward bunk, then I winch it out of the water. I have to goHey, Capt. Richard!
> deeper of course to launch, but I can retrieve without getting the
> tires on the truck wet.
>
> I have often thought I needed a board, say a 9 inch wide piece of
> 3/4 ply, going from the center bunk to the forward bunk. Mounted on
> hings, it would flex and guide the nose up on the forward bunk.
>
> As you know, I have an AF2, no keel on the bottom. When I build the
> Chebacco LC, I will go with rollers as you suggest, but use two
> athwart-ship bunks. The trick will be evenly distribing the weight
> between the bunks and the keel...
>
How 'bout a Messabout on TableRock/Bull Shoals/ Beaver/ Grand
Lake?
My goal, not necessarily realized, when I set-up my trailer
was to be able to launch and retrieve without getting the trailer
hubs wet. So I have 4 keel rollers and a pair of 8-ft longitudinal
bunks. On very steep ramps, i will have a problem with the straight
stem trying to hit the next roller in line, on the vertical surface
of the stem. I may need to add one more roller to close-up the
distance between them. Another concern with the bunks is one has
to watch for a tendency for the chines to try to get stuck between
them rather than to climb them. The keel roller at the rear of the
frame will usually prevent this unless the trailer is submerged too
deep.
Since my bunks pass under the companionway bulkhead, motor well
forward bulkhead, and the transom, I am not much concerned about the
bottom flexxing that Jim addresses in his newsletter concerning
trailers. Since the bottom is usually the thickest, and heaviest,
part of the boat, I would argue that bottom flex is probably not
a concern on any open boat with little structure bearing down on the
sides.
A bigger concern of mine, primarily with powerboats, is that
the transom should have support directly underneath it to support
the weight of the outboard, or in my case, two outboards. This is why
I have my bunks extend about 4 inches aft of the transom, which also
provides a handy place to fasten transom tie-downs. A sailboat with
a small auxiliary outboard doesn't worry me as much.
Personally, I believe that it is harder to "set-up" a trailer to
handle a "pointy-bow" flat-bottom boat, than a vee-bottom boat,
primarily due to that deep, straight stem. A raked stem with rounded
fore foot will not try to snag every cross member of the frame or
drag on the tongue.
Later
Max
Hey, Max. Hub is working fine!
Would add, I have only athwart-ship bunks on my trailer, and have no
problem winching it up. I do have to lift the nose a bit to get it on
the forward bunk, then I winch it out of the water. I have to go
deeper of course to launch, but I can retrieve without getting the
tires on the truck wet.
I have often thought I needed a board, say a 9 inch wide piece of
3/4 ply, going from the center bunk to the forward bunk. Mounted on
hings, it would flex and guide the nose up on the forward bunk.
As you know, I have an AF2, no keel on the bottom. When I build the
Chebacco LC, I will go with rollers as you suggest, but use two
athwart-ship bunks. The trick will be evenly distribing the weight
between the bunks and the keel...
Would add, I have only athwart-ship bunks on my trailer, and have no
problem winching it up. I do have to lift the nose a bit to get it on
the forward bunk, then I winch it out of the water. I have to go
deeper of course to launch, but I can retrieve without getting the
tires on the truck wet.
I have often thought I needed a board, say a 9 inch wide piece of
3/4 ply, going from the center bunk to the forward bunk. Mounted on
hings, it would flex and guide the nose up on the forward bunk.
As you know, I have an AF2, no keel on the bottom. When I build the
Chebacco LC, I will go with rollers as you suggest, but use two
athwart-ship bunks. The trick will be evenly distribing the weight
between the bunks and the keel...
--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
> Jim Michalak's comments converning athwart-ship possitioned bunks
> are definetly worth reading, but there is an additional point
> to consider. With athwart-ship bunks, and a boat larger than
> a June Bug, the trailer often must be submerged to the point
> where the boat can be floated into position- you do not have the
> option of winching the boat up onto the trailer. Again, with
> the June Bug it probably won't matter as the boat is light
> enough to "man-handle" as necessary. For this reason I prefer
> longitudinal bunks, assuming the rocker of the boat's bottom
> does not preclude them, and I prefer keel rollers. I put
> a center "keel" made from a 2" by 4" on my AF4 so that it, and
> not the bottom plywood, would bear on the keel rollers.
> Jim was supprised to see how easily my AF4 launched from
> a shallow-positioned trailer. It also retrieves easily.
> One thing to keep in mind, regardless of bunk/ roller positioning,
> is that the trailer, on the ramp, is at an angle, and the
> boat floating up to it is level. Watch for interferience
> between the stem and the trailer frame in this situation.
>
>
> Max
Jim Michalak's comments converning athwart-ship possitioned bunks
are definetly worth reading, but there is an additional point
to consider. With athwart-ship bunks, and a boat larger than
a June Bug, the trailer often must be submerged to the point
where the boat can be floated into position- you do not have the
option of winching the boat up onto the trailer. Again, with
the June Bug it probably won't matter as the boat is light
enough to "man-handle" as necessary. For this reason I prefer
longitudinal bunks, assuming the rocker of the boat's bottom
does not preclude them, and I prefer keel rollers. I put
a center "keel" made from a 2" by 4" on my AF4 so that it, and
not the bottom plywood, would bear on the keel rollers.
Jim was supprised to see how easily my AF4 launched from
a shallow-positioned trailer. It also retrieves easily.
One thing to keep in mind, regardless of bunk/ roller positioning,
is that the trailer, on the ramp, is at an angle, and the
boat floating up to it is level. Watch for interferience
between the stem and the trailer frame in this situation.
Max
are definetly worth reading, but there is an additional point
to consider. With athwart-ship bunks, and a boat larger than
a June Bug, the trailer often must be submerged to the point
where the boat can be floated into position- you do not have the
option of winching the boat up onto the trailer. Again, with
the June Bug it probably won't matter as the boat is light
enough to "man-handle" as necessary. For this reason I prefer
longitudinal bunks, assuming the rocker of the boat's bottom
does not preclude them, and I prefer keel rollers. I put
a center "keel" made from a 2" by 4" on my AF4 so that it, and
not the bottom plywood, would bear on the keel rollers.
Jim was supprised to see how easily my AF4 launched from
a shallow-positioned trailer. It also retrieves easily.
One thing to keep in mind, regardless of bunk/ roller positioning,
is that the trailer, on the ramp, is at an angle, and the
boat floating up to it is level. Watch for interferience
between the stem and the trailer frame in this situation.
Max
Michael:
Jim Michalak has some info:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1998/0115/index.html
Chuck
Jim Michalak has some info:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1998/0115/index.html
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Galvin [mailto:michaelgalvin@...]
> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 4:34 PM
> To: Bolger Yahoo Group
> Subject: [bolger] Adapting trailer for flat bottom boats
>
>
> Can anyone direct me to advice on adapting trailers to carry Bolger-type
> flat-bottomed boats? I'm sure somewhere I saw something either
> buried in a
> message here or in some Bolger-related web page.
>
> I'm trying to adapt an existing trailer with bunks running for and aft for
> use with my June Bug. I think I remember somewhere that the bunks should
> run athwartships rather than fore-and-aft with such a flat-bottomed craft.
>
> Any advice?
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Can anyone direct me to advice on adapting trailers to carry Bolger-type
flat-bottomed boats? I'm sure somewhere I saw something either buried in a
message here or in some Bolger-related web page.
I'm trying to adapt an existing trailer with bunks running for and aft for
use with my June Bug. I think I remember somewhere that the bunks should
run athwartships rather than fore-and-aft with such a flat-bottomed craft.
Any advice?
flat-bottomed boats? I'm sure somewhere I saw something either buried in a
message here or in some Bolger-related web page.
I'm trying to adapt an existing trailer with bunks running for and aft for
use with my June Bug. I think I remember somewhere that the bunks should
run athwartships rather than fore-and-aft with such a flat-bottomed craft.
Any advice?