Re: [bolger] Nymph Rig Questions
Pete,
By all means, build the sail rig for your Nymph. I don't have a good
recommendation for a break-down mast but can pass on some of my experience
...
As a "temporary" measure to get my Nymph sailing, I used an ancient aluminum
mast/nylon sail rig given to me by a neighbor. While I'm sure that a better
built sail would perform better, this one works just fine. I've been able
to sail in light and fairly strong (15-20 mph) winds on a large mountain
lake near us. I haven't had the stability problems others have mentioned.
Of course, the >200 lb "ballast" I carry around with me may well help :).
Kids and lighter folks should use caution to find their limits.
You can see a couple of pictures of the rig at
http://home.internetcds.com/~lgbarker/nymph/nymph.html.
It's a simple leg-o-mutton sail, 10' luff, 10' foot, so its 50 sq ft is
larger than the design's 40 sq ft. Because of the difference in sail
shape, it needs to have an unraked mast. I set a mast step a couple of
inches aft of the designed position. The partner stayed where designed.
As it turns out, using the designed mast partner with an unraked mast and a
10' boom puts the CE right over the lee board (at least it draws out that
way). The balance is fine in use. I found that it was too much work
holding the sheet so I put a block on top of the tiller at the rudder head
to take the strain. So far it hasn't jammed. The tiller was too long so
I cut it in half.
The 12' aluminum mast is C-something tubing (much lighter than Sched 40).
It's not as pretty as a wood mast but it did get me on the lake sooner.
I stongly recommend a kick-up rudder -- it's at the top of my fix-it list.
The fixed leeboard is fine.
It's a hoot to sail in some wind (properly ballasted, of course). I don't
have to hike out at all - just a bit of a lean. It won't plane with me but
does plow an impressive furrow. It can carry 2 of us at around 350 lbs, no
problem.
Hey Pete, thanks for motivating me to write this. You've gotten my head
back into the right place. The endless irrigation project can wait.
There's still water in the lakes and I'm going sailing.
Enjoy.
Larry Barker
Talent, Oregon
By all means, build the sail rig for your Nymph. I don't have a good
recommendation for a break-down mast but can pass on some of my experience
...
As a "temporary" measure to get my Nymph sailing, I used an ancient aluminum
mast/nylon sail rig given to me by a neighbor. While I'm sure that a better
built sail would perform better, this one works just fine. I've been able
to sail in light and fairly strong (15-20 mph) winds on a large mountain
lake near us. I haven't had the stability problems others have mentioned.
Of course, the >200 lb "ballast" I carry around with me may well help :).
Kids and lighter folks should use caution to find their limits.
You can see a couple of pictures of the rig at
http://home.internetcds.com/~lgbarker/nymph/nymph.html.
It's a simple leg-o-mutton sail, 10' luff, 10' foot, so its 50 sq ft is
larger than the design's 40 sq ft. Because of the difference in sail
shape, it needs to have an unraked mast. I set a mast step a couple of
inches aft of the designed position. The partner stayed where designed.
As it turns out, using the designed mast partner with an unraked mast and a
10' boom puts the CE right over the lee board (at least it draws out that
way). The balance is fine in use. I found that it was too much work
holding the sheet so I put a block on top of the tiller at the rudder head
to take the strain. So far it hasn't jammed. The tiller was too long so
I cut it in half.
The 12' aluminum mast is C-something tubing (much lighter than Sched 40).
It's not as pretty as a wood mast but it did get me on the lake sooner.
I stongly recommend a kick-up rudder -- it's at the top of my fix-it list.
The fixed leeboard is fine.
It's a hoot to sail in some wind (properly ballasted, of course). I don't
have to hike out at all - just a bit of a lean. It won't plane with me but
does plow an impressive furrow. It can carry 2 of us at around 350 lbs, no
problem.
Hey Pete, thanks for motivating me to write this. You've gotten my head
back into the right place. The endless irrigation project can wait.
There's still water in the lakes and I'm going sailing.
Enjoy.
Larry Barker
Talent, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: <staehpj1@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 6:40 AM
Subject: [bolger] Nymph Rig Questions
> I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
> project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
> described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
> the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
> will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
>
> I would imagine that it would be pretty easy to manage with aluminum
> tubing, but I would like to use wood spars if possible.
>
<snip>
> Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
> just move on to the next project?
>
> BTW: I will probably make a kick up rudder.
>
> Pete Staehling
>
I wouldn't put a boomless spritsail on my boat, for the following
reasons:
Sheet forces are quite high for a given sail area and wind strength,
MUCH higher than the triangular sail with the sprit boom. With a
loose foot, the sheet has to hold the clew away from the mast, down,
and in toward the center of the boat. With the sprit boom, the boom
holds the clew out, the lower edge of the sail holds it down, and all
the sheet has to do is hold in in toward the centerline. That's why
you can get away with a single-part sheet on a 60 sg. ft. sail with a
sprit boom. You can, of course, put a block on the clew for a
multiple-part sheet, but that's at least as much a hazard to life and
limb (or skull) as the boom. It also might cause structural problems
with a taped Tyvek sail, since the load on the clew grommet will be
pretty high.
It's difficult to get a boomless spritsail to set properly,
particularly downwind. It really wants a different sheet lead for
every point of sail; this is impractical, so what you get is a
compromise at best. Downwind the sail bags and tends to collapse
toward the center of the boat, and in some cases can develop a very
nasty rythmic roll. This might really be a problem in a boat as
tender as the Nymph (not the Rubens version, I presume).
All of this trouble can be avoided by adding a sprit boom to a
spritsail. You then have three short spars, but the sail becomes
quite docile. Another alternative would be to use the Solent lug
(same triangular sail and sprit boom, but with a shorter mast and an
additional vertical spar much like a gunter yard). If anyone has
done this with the standard 60 sq ft instant boat rig, I'd very much
like to hear about it. I considered doing that on my cartopper (now
in the sanding-and-painting phase), but figured I'd done enough
experimenting already and made a hollow birdsmouth mast for the
standard rig. Sure would be nice to fit all the spars in the boat,
though.
Keith Wilson
reasons:
Sheet forces are quite high for a given sail area and wind strength,
MUCH higher than the triangular sail with the sprit boom. With a
loose foot, the sheet has to hold the clew away from the mast, down,
and in toward the center of the boat. With the sprit boom, the boom
holds the clew out, the lower edge of the sail holds it down, and all
the sheet has to do is hold in in toward the centerline. That's why
you can get away with a single-part sheet on a 60 sg. ft. sail with a
sprit boom. You can, of course, put a block on the clew for a
multiple-part sheet, but that's at least as much a hazard to life and
limb (or skull) as the boom. It also might cause structural problems
with a taped Tyvek sail, since the load on the clew grommet will be
pretty high.
It's difficult to get a boomless spritsail to set properly,
particularly downwind. It really wants a different sheet lead for
every point of sail; this is impractical, so what you get is a
compromise at best. Downwind the sail bags and tends to collapse
toward the center of the boat, and in some cases can develop a very
nasty rythmic roll. This might really be a problem in a boat as
tender as the Nymph (not the Rubens version, I presume).
All of this trouble can be avoided by adding a sprit boom to a
spritsail. You then have three short spars, but the sail becomes
quite docile. Another alternative would be to use the Solent lug
(same triangular sail and sprit boom, but with a shorter mast and an
additional vertical spar much like a gunter yard). If anyone has
done this with the standard 60 sq ft instant boat rig, I'd very much
like to hear about it. I considered doing that on my cartopper (now
in the sanding-and-painting phase), but figured I'd done enough
experimenting already and made a hollow birdsmouth mast for the
standard rig. Sure would be nice to fit all the spars in the boat,
though.
Keith Wilson
--- In bolger@y..., staehpj1@h... wrote:
> Thanks to all for the advice so far. I looked at the sprit rig on
> the D4 it looks like it would work out well on the Nymph
Pete
I have built a Nymph with Bolger's specified leg o' mutton rig. Quite
honestly, I feel it was not worth the effort and time to add the sailing
rig. I felt the Nymph was just too tippy for the kind of relaxed sailing I
enjoy. A moment's inattention can lead to a cold, wet experience. For just
playing around an anchorage in warm weather, it might be OK, though.
I have used the leg o' mutton rig on my June Bug, and I really like it on
that boat. It's very light and quick to set up. I think it points fairly
well upwind, but I haven't really measured tacking angles with a compass or
GPS to be sure. Going downwind, the aft end of the sprit boom is held quite
high by the clew, so you don't have to worry about a clunk on the head
during an accidental jibe. The rig is effortless to roll up the sail onto
the mast and go home when you're done.
If you decide to go with the leg o' mutton rig, I could probably cut you a
good deal on a mint condition Gambrel & Hunter sail for your Nymph.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...[mailto:staehpj1@...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 9:40 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Nymph Rig Questions
I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
just move on to the next project?
Pete Staehling
I have built a Nymph with Bolger's specified leg o' mutton rig. Quite
honestly, I feel it was not worth the effort and time to add the sailing
rig. I felt the Nymph was just too tippy for the kind of relaxed sailing I
enjoy. A moment's inattention can lead to a cold, wet experience. For just
playing around an anchorage in warm weather, it might be OK, though.
I have used the leg o' mutton rig on my June Bug, and I really like it on
that boat. It's very light and quick to set up. I think it points fairly
well upwind, but I haven't really measured tacking angles with a compass or
GPS to be sure. Going downwind, the aft end of the sprit boom is held quite
high by the clew, so you don't have to worry about a clunk on the head
during an accidental jibe. The rig is effortless to roll up the sail onto
the mast and go home when you're done.
If you decide to go with the leg o' mutton rig, I could probably cut you a
good deal on a mint condition Gambrel & Hunter sail for your Nymph.
Michael Galvin
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...[mailto:staehpj1@...]
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 9:40 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Nymph Rig Questions
I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
just move on to the next project?
Pete Staehling
You could try a sprit rig with a sprit boom. This has short spars and
is supposed to have better downwind manners than regular sprit.
Michalak shows on on a very small boat of his, or maybe two. I recall
Vole and also a tiny flatiron skiff that had it, but I could be
spacing out here.
As far as triple plywood that someone else mentioned, if you used
plywood with thin face laminations with the grain running the long
way, you will need as much thickness as you can get, as the face
laminations are too thin and will probably have half the strength of
plywood glued up that way with thick face laminations. The typical
luan has pretty thin face laminations.
is supposed to have better downwind manners than regular sprit.
Michalak shows on on a very small boat of his, or maybe two. I recall
Vole and also a tiny flatiron skiff that had it, but I could be
spacing out here.
As far as triple plywood that someone else mentioned, if you used
plywood with thin face laminations with the grain running the long
way, you will need as much thickness as you can get, as the face
laminations are too thin and will probably have half the strength of
plywood glued up that way with thick face laminations. The typical
luan has pretty thin face laminations.
--- In bolger@y..., staehpj1@h... wrote:
> I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
> project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
> described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
> the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
> will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
>
snip>
> Pete Staehling
A couple of comments on the sprit rig...
Downwind the sprit tends to have a mind of its own. I've found it best
to jibe back and forth rather than let the sail do it on its own. As
there is no boom, the consequences of an unplanned jib are not great,
at least in the small sizes being discussed.
An interesting reefing option with the sprit rig is to loosen the
snotter and drop the sprit while leaving the lower triangle of sail
rigged to the mast and the sheet. I have used this dodge often in the
flunky and unpredictable winds of mountain lakes. A similar technique
is employed with the gaff rig, and is called scandalizing the gaff (or
main),
porky
Downwind the sprit tends to have a mind of its own. I've found it best
to jibe back and forth rather than let the sail do it on its own. As
there is no boom, the consequences of an unplanned jib are not great,
at least in the small sizes being discussed.
An interesting reefing option with the sprit rig is to loosen the
snotter and drop the sprit while leaving the lower triangle of sail
rigged to the mast and the sheet. I have used this dodge often in the
flunky and unpredictable winds of mountain lakes. A similar technique
is employed with the gaff rig, and is called scandalizing the gaff (or
main),
porky
Thanks to all for the advice so far. I looked at the sprit rig on
the D4 it looks like it would work out well on the Nymph. I don't
have a copy of BWAOM. I will have to get one.
My plans, while not final yet, are starting to shape up as follows:
Stick with the plans for the lee board.
Build a rudder like the kick up one shown on Michalak's
page, but with the same area and shape below the water
that Bolger called for.
Make spars as shown on D4 plans.
Make step and partner similar to ones shown on plan, but
clamp on temporary ones first to experiment with location.
Possibly make Polytarp sail like the D4 one shown on the
polytarp sail page. Or alternately make one from Tyvek.
I have part of a roll of Tyvek with no logo, left over
from my kitemaking days. It is 36" wide stuff. I
wouldn't mind sewing up panels if I can find or figure
out a design. Maybe I will mess around with Sailcut,
but I don't know much about sail design.
BTW: Are three layers of 1/4" ply really necessary on rudder and lee
board. The D4 plans spec about half that thickness for the rudder
and centerboard. The Nymph leeboard does probably need to be
stronger than the D4 centerboard because it is longer and not
supported by a trunk. I guess I can't go wrong by following the
plans, it just seems like overkill, especially the rudder.
Pete Staehling
the D4 it looks like it would work out well on the Nymph. I don't
have a copy of BWAOM. I will have to get one.
My plans, while not final yet, are starting to shape up as follows:
Stick with the plans for the lee board.
Build a rudder like the kick up one shown on Michalak's
page, but with the same area and shape below the water
that Bolger called for.
Make spars as shown on D4 plans.
Make step and partner similar to ones shown on plan, but
clamp on temporary ones first to experiment with location.
Possibly make Polytarp sail like the D4 one shown on the
polytarp sail page. Or alternately make one from Tyvek.
I have part of a roll of Tyvek with no logo, left over
from my kitemaking days. It is 36" wide stuff. I
wouldn't mind sewing up panels if I can find or figure
out a design. Maybe I will mess around with Sailcut,
but I don't know much about sail design.
BTW: Are three layers of 1/4" ply really necessary on rudder and lee
board. The D4 plans spec about half that thickness for the rudder
and centerboard. The Nymph leeboard does probably need to be
stronger than the D4 centerboard because it is longer and not
supported by a trunk. I guess I can't go wrong by following the
plans, it just seems like overkill, especially the rudder.
Pete Staehling
Pete:
When theory is applied in the real world, it does not always hold up. I
would try to make the mast location as temporary as possible before trials.
Then I would sail the boat in as many different conditions as possible
before "nailing" the thing down.
As Jamie suggests, the two rigs can be seen on page 26 of BWAOM.
Interestingly, Bolger says that the two are equal close hauled, but the
sprit is "nasty" downwind.
Chuck
When theory is applied in the real world, it does not always hold up. I
would try to make the mast location as temporary as possible before trials.
Then I would sail the boat in as many different conditions as possible
before "nailing" the thing down.
As Jamie suggests, the two rigs can be seen on page 26 of BWAOM.
Interestingly, Bolger says that the two are equal close hauled, but the
sprit is "nasty" downwind.
Chuck
>
> I would assume that if I use a spritsail, I would move the mast to
> where the center of effort was the same as the plan calls for. I
> would assume the the center of area would be a close enough
> approximation of center of effort for this purpose. Or are the
> centers of the two types of sails (given the same area) close enough
> to just follow the plans? The plan shows some rake, would you keep
> that the same with a spritsail?
>
> Pete Staehling
>
>
Take a look at Cartopper in Boats With An Open Mind -- it shows both sails.
The sprit rig calls for a vertical mast, while the leg of mutton sprit boom
rig has a bit of rake to move the centre of effort a little aft.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...[mailto:staehpj1@...]
Sent: July 4, 2001 9:23 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Nymph Rig Questions
The sprit rig calls for a vertical mast, while the leg of mutton sprit boom
rig has a bit of rake to move the centre of effort a little aft.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...[mailto:staehpj1@...]
Sent: July 4, 2001 9:23 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Nymph Rig Questions
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Pete:
>
> Think about a spritsail.
I would assume that if I use a spritsail, I would move the mast to
where the center of effort was the same as the plan calls for. I
would assume the the center of area would be a close enough
approximation of center of effort for this purpose. Or are the
centers of the two types of sails (given the same area) close enough
to just follow the plans? The plan shows some rake, would you keep
that the same with a spritsail?
Pete Staehling
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Pete
I'e been thinking about re-rigging our Nymph as a Solent Lug - same sail,
same location, same sprit-boom, with the top two thirds of the luff laced to
a spar hoisted up the (shortened) mast... of course this is all theory :)
Cheers
Derek
I'e been thinking about re-rigging our Nymph as a Solent Lug - same sail,
same location, same sprit-boom, with the top two thirds of the luff laced to
a spar hoisted up the (shortened) mast... of course this is all theory :)
Cheers
Derek
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
where the center of effort was the same as the plan calls for. I
would assume the the center of area would be a close enough
approximation of center of effort for this purpose. Or are the
centers of the two types of sails (given the same area) close enough
to just follow the plans? The plan shows some rake, would you keep
that the same with a spritsail?
Pete Staehling
> Pete:I would assume that if I use a spritsail, I would move the mast to
>
> Think about a spritsail.
where the center of effort was the same as the plan calls for. I
would assume the the center of area would be a close enough
approximation of center of effort for this purpose. Or are the
centers of the two types of sails (given the same area) close enough
to just follow the plans? The plan shows some rake, would you keep
that the same with a spritsail?
Pete Staehling
Pete:
Think about a spritsail. These little sails are handy, efficient, and
economical. The only drawback is that they are hard to reef. They are able
to store in length of the boat because of the short mast. The absence of a
boom makes sailing with them in a small boat easy on the noggin. IMHO, the
shorter mast and lower center of effort make the sprit a better choice than
the leg-o'-mutton shown in the plans, though it might be a tad less fast and
weatherly.
Chuck
Think about a spritsail. These little sails are handy, efficient, and
economical. The only drawback is that they are hard to reef. They are able
to store in length of the boat because of the short mast. The absence of a
boom makes sailing with them in a small boat easy on the noggin. IMHO, the
shorter mast and lower center of effort make the sprit a better choice than
the leg-o'-mutton shown in the plans, though it might be a tad less fast and
weatherly.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:staehpj1@...[mailto:staehpj1@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2001 8:40 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Nymph Rig Questions
>
>
> I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
> project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
> described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
> the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
> will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
>
> I would imagine that it would be pretty easy to manage with aluminum
> tubing, but I would like to use wood spars if possible.
>
> I was thinking that a piece of aluminum tubing (round? square?) could
> be used like a ferule on a fishing rod. I think it would want to be
> kept as far toward the base as possible, where the mast is thicker
> and bends less. Am I all wet here?
>
> I guess another option would be to use a different rig entirely. A
> lateen sail would seem to fit the bill, but I imagine that the mast
> location and rake would need to be different. Right?
>
> I plan to use Tyvek to keep it cheap, but am considering sewing
> curved panels like a "real sail". I am not afraid to sew, but is it
> worth the effort to use panels to shape the sail on this type of boat?
>
> The idea of this project is to be able to tow the Nymph behind my
> C22. Besides being used as a tender (under oar power) it would be
> sailed to provide a diversion while anchored out. It is also a way
> to get a little experience with building the sail rig before I build
> the next project boat.
>
> Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
> just move on to the next project?
>
> BTW: I will probably make a kick up rudder.
>
> Pete Staehling
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I think I may build a sail rig for my Nymph before I build my next
project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
I would imagine that it would be pretty easy to manage with aluminum
tubing, but I would like to use wood spars if possible.
I was thinking that a piece of aluminum tubing (round? square?) could
be used like a ferule on a fishing rod. I think it would want to be
kept as far toward the base as possible, where the mast is thicker
and bends less. Am I all wet here?
I guess another option would be to use a different rig entirely. A
lateen sail would seem to fit the bill, but I imagine that the mast
location and rake would need to be different. Right?
I plan to use Tyvek to keep it cheap, but am considering sewing
curved panels like a "real sail". I am not afraid to sew, but is it
worth the effort to use panels to shape the sail on this type of boat?
The idea of this project is to be able to tow the Nymph behind my
C22. Besides being used as a tender (under oar power) it would be
sailed to provide a diversion while anchored out. It is also a way
to get a little experience with building the sail rig before I build
the next project boat.
Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
just move on to the next project?
BTW: I will probably make a kick up rudder.
Pete Staehling
project (Teal? JuneBug? Featherwind?). I might build the rig
described in the plans, but wonder about a rig that would store in
the boat. Is it feasable to build it with two piece spars so they
will fit in the boat when broken down? Any ideas on how to do this?
I would imagine that it would be pretty easy to manage with aluminum
tubing, but I would like to use wood spars if possible.
I was thinking that a piece of aluminum tubing (round? square?) could
be used like a ferule on a fishing rod. I think it would want to be
kept as far toward the base as possible, where the mast is thicker
and bends less. Am I all wet here?
I guess another option would be to use a different rig entirely. A
lateen sail would seem to fit the bill, but I imagine that the mast
location and rake would need to be different. Right?
I plan to use Tyvek to keep it cheap, but am considering sewing
curved panels like a "real sail". I am not afraid to sew, but is it
worth the effort to use panels to shape the sail on this type of boat?
The idea of this project is to be able to tow the Nymph behind my
C22. Besides being used as a tender (under oar power) it would be
sailed to provide a diversion while anchored out. It is also a way
to get a little experience with building the sail rig before I build
the next project boat.
Is the Nymph a good enough sailer to be worth the effort or should I
just move on to the next project?
BTW: I will probably make a kick up rudder.
Pete Staehling