Re: [bolger] Re: Leeboard release (was: had an inspiration)
les huggardjohn.huggard@...
re cutting aluminum on a table saw you can get blades for this .....and
rub a candle on tem while running the saw ...you can use a router also.
where long sleaves and headphones ....----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Leinweber <chuck@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Leeboard release (was: had an inspiration)
re cutting aluminum on a table saw you can get blades for this .....and
rub a candle on tem while running the saw ...you can use a router also.
where long sleaves and headphones ....----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Leinweber <chuck@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2001 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Leeboard release (was: had an inspiration)
> Claton:say,
>
> Thanks for reminding me. Yes, a table saw works well too, but, as you
> you have to hang on."Cool
>
> I usually use WD-40 for drilling or tapping aluminum, but do NOT use it on
> the blade of your band saw, as it will ruin the tires. I have not used
> Tool". Where do you get it?and
>
> Chuck
> >
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > Although I would never recommend this to anyone, I cut aluminum bar and
> > plate on an old Craftsman 8" table saw with a carbide tipped blade. You
> > just feed it slower and hold it down a bit firmer than you would wood
> > let the saw do it's job. I've also used a woodworking band saw01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > for aluminum
> > as well but I use a product called "Cool Tool" on the blade.
> >
> > Claton
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
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> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Chuck,
supply. It works so good when tapping that I haven't used a tap handle for
aluminum in years. I chuck (no pun intended) the tap in a variable electric
hand drill and just slow "drill" the threads. But you must drill the proper
numbered size hole first of course.
Chuck is quite right you do have to be careful when using cutting on band
saws. Some fluids will react with the rubber drive rollers. There are also
cooling/cutting fluids that you mix in water as well. Which ever you use
it's always a good idea to wipe up the excess after your done using the
tool.
There's another tip, if you don't have a numbered set of drills and you want
to work in metal I recommend you consider buying a set. Or at least buy the
numbered drills the match the tap sizes and the through hole sizes you
intent to use.
Claton Cadmus
> I have not used "Cool Tool". Where do you get it?You should be able to get it or a similar products at any machine tool
supply. It works so good when tapping that I haven't used a tap handle for
aluminum in years. I chuck (no pun intended) the tap in a variable electric
hand drill and just slow "drill" the threads. But you must drill the proper
numbered size hole first of course.
Chuck is quite right you do have to be careful when using cutting on band
saws. Some fluids will react with the rubber drive rollers. There are also
cooling/cutting fluids that you mix in water as well. Which ever you use
it's always a good idea to wipe up the excess after your done using the
tool.
There's another tip, if you don't have a numbered set of drills and you want
to work in metal I recommend you consider buying a set. Or at least buy the
numbered drills the match the tap sizes and the through hole sizes you
intent to use.
Claton Cadmus
Claton:
Thanks for reminding me. Yes, a table saw works well too, but, as you say,
you have to hang on.
I usually use WD-40 for drilling or tapping aluminum, but do NOT use it on
the blade of your band saw, as it will ruin the tires. I have not used "Cool
Tool". Where do you get it?
Chuck
Thanks for reminding me. Yes, a table saw works well too, but, as you say,
you have to hang on.
I usually use WD-40 for drilling or tapping aluminum, but do NOT use it on
the blade of your band saw, as it will ruin the tires. I have not used "Cool
Tool". Where do you get it?
Chuck
>
>
> Chuck,
>
> Although I would never recommend this to anyone, I cut aluminum bar and
> plate on an old Craftsman 8" table saw with a carbide tipped blade. You
> just feed it slower and hold it down a bit firmer than you would wood and
> let the saw do it's job. I've also used a woodworking band saw
> for aluminum
> as well but I use a product called "Cool Tool" on the blade.
>
> Claton
>
Chuck,
Although I would never recommend this to anyone, I cut aluminum bar and
plate on an old Craftsman 8" table saw with a carbide tipped blade. You
just feed it slower and hold it down a bit firmer than you would wood and
let the saw do it's job. I've also used a woodworking band saw for aluminum
as well but I use a product called "Cool Tool" on the blade.
Claton
Although I would never recommend this to anyone, I cut aluminum bar and
plate on an old Craftsman 8" table saw with a carbide tipped blade. You
just feed it slower and hold it down a bit firmer than you would wood and
let the saw do it's job. I've also used a woodworking band saw for aluminum
as well but I use a product called "Cool Tool" on the blade.
Claton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 17:21
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Leeboard release (was: had an inspiration)
> Claton
>
> One of the things I like about using aluminum plate is that you can cut it
> with a regular wood cutting band saw running at the regular speed. People
> don't believe me when I tell them this, but I do it all the time with
plate
> up to 1" thick. I have a little Rockwell 14" saw, but it will work on
even
> smaller saws. The secret is to use a candle or piece of beeswax on the
> blade every couple of cuts. You can buy the stuff at any metal
wholesaler -
> ask to buy some of their drops. They will be happy to get rid of them.
>
> Chuck
Claton
One of the things I like about using aluminum plate is that you can cut it
with a regular wood cutting band saw running at the regular speed. People
don't believe me when I tell them this, but I do it all the time with plate
up to 1" thick. I have a little Rockwell 14" saw, but it will work on even
smaller saws. The secret is to use a candle or piece of beeswax on the
blade every couple of cuts. You can buy the stuff at any metal wholesaler -
ask to buy some of their drops. They will be happy to get rid of them.
Chuck
One of the things I like about using aluminum plate is that you can cut it
with a regular wood cutting band saw running at the regular speed. People
don't believe me when I tell them this, but I do it all the time with plate
up to 1" thick. I have a little Rockwell 14" saw, but it will work on even
smaller saws. The secret is to use a candle or piece of beeswax on the
blade every couple of cuts. You can buy the stuff at any metal wholesaler -
ask to buy some of their drops. They will be happy to get rid of them.
Chuck
> I can certainly see making the mechanism yourself from scratch if you have
> the equipment. I probably would do that as I have a lathe and milling
> machine.
>
> Claton Cadmus
--- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
pendant to hold the board anywhere you want it, against the downward
pull of the heavier-than-water board. But it sounds like the wingnut
on your AF2 is the only control you have. Old sailing canoes were
rigged that way, because the board itself could be easily manhandled,
from the helmsman's normal position. Those leeboards would loosen
and release nicely if the threads on the pivot bolts were arranged
properly, with an ordinary thread on the port side, and reverse
threads on the starboard side. Many of them only carried a single
board, on the port-side--to take advantage of the commonly available
threaded bolts, one might guess. And the single board performs
surpising well, on both tacks. When the board hits an obstacle, the
initial rotation loosens (rather than tightens) the wingnut, and the
board comes floating right up. Those old-timers knew a few things
too, and found some ingenious solutions. Generally the most simple
and elegant ways were the ones that got handed down. Not everything
that is traditional should be automatically adopted, of course. I'm
not advocating that. But there are some almost timeless ways of
dealing with many of the things we encounter on the water, that
shouldn't be overlooked either. Not much is new under the sun, but
every now and then something is. Tinkering is great. So is
discovering some bit of ancient genious. "To each his own" seems
exactly right.
Johannes
>It has lead to pull the board down, but what if you wantOrdinarily on sailboats of any size there's a cleated rope lifting
> it halfway down to trim the helm?
pendant to hold the board anywhere you want it, against the downward
pull of the heavier-than-water board. But it sounds like the wingnut
on your AF2 is the only control you have. Old sailing canoes were
rigged that way, because the board itself could be easily manhandled,
from the helmsman's normal position. Those leeboards would loosen
and release nicely if the threads on the pivot bolts were arranged
properly, with an ordinary thread on the port side, and reverse
threads on the starboard side. Many of them only carried a single
board, on the port-side--to take advantage of the commonly available
threaded bolts, one might guess. And the single board performs
surpising well, on both tacks. When the board hits an obstacle, the
initial rotation loosens (rather than tightens) the wingnut, and the
board comes floating right up. Those old-timers knew a few things
too, and found some ingenious solutions. Generally the most simple
and elegant ways were the ones that got handed down. Not everything
that is traditional should be automatically adopted, of course. I'm
not advocating that. But there are some almost timeless ways of
dealing with many of the things we encounter on the water, that
shouldn't be overlooked either. Not much is new under the sun, but
every now and then something is. Tinkering is great. So is
discovering some bit of ancient genious. "To each his own" seems
exactly right.
Johannes
Hi All,
Well as fate would have it, I had to run up to the hardware store so I took
a couple minutes to check out various hinges. There I found solid brass
hinges with what looked like solid brass hinge pins, not brass plated steel.
Also found hot dipped galvanized gate hinges with brass pins and the
adjustable spring gate hinges were also hot dipped galvanized with brass
pins and the springs appeared to be zinc plated. Probably would be OK for
fresh water. The hinges were more expensive then I thought. A pair of the
spring gate hinges were $25 a pair but this hardware store doesn't have a
rep for low prices either.
I can certainly see making the mechanism yourself from scratch if you have
the equipment. I probably would do that as I have a lathe and milling
machine.
Claton Cadmus
Well as fate would have it, I had to run up to the hardware store so I took
a couple minutes to check out various hinges. There I found solid brass
hinges with what looked like solid brass hinge pins, not brass plated steel.
Also found hot dipped galvanized gate hinges with brass pins and the
adjustable spring gate hinges were also hot dipped galvanized with brass
pins and the springs appeared to be zinc plated. Probably would be OK for
fresh water. The hinges were more expensive then I thought. A pair of the
spring gate hinges were $25 a pair but this hardware store doesn't have a
rep for low prices either.
I can certainly see making the mechanism yourself from scratch if you have
the equipment. I probably would do that as I have a lathe and milling
machine.
Claton Cadmus
On my Frolic with the leeboard, I used to just cleat it off and did just
what Rich warns, I tore off the cleat when I hit a rock with the board.
Small cleat mind you but....still a repair job. My solution was less
inventive, I simply used a smaller line one the leeboard, one that would
break in an emergency strike on the leeboard but strong enough to hold it in
any position I wanted to balance the helm. Something along a 50 lbs.
tensile strength.
I leave my pivot bolt just loose enough to swivel at will and since it wants
to always pivot up due to resistance and/or boyancy, I the line and a cleat
to adjust the height. Something automatic would be nice but on my boat with
just a main sheet and rudder, I'm not too busy when beaching.
I would not want a spring loaded tensioner as it would tend to drag the
board across the rocks or beach tearing it up. (same with lead weight) I'd
rather it just pop up out of the way.
Jeff
what Rich warns, I tore off the cleat when I hit a rock with the board.
Small cleat mind you but....still a repair job. My solution was less
inventive, I simply used a smaller line one the leeboard, one that would
break in an emergency strike on the leeboard but strong enough to hold it in
any position I wanted to balance the helm. Something along a 50 lbs.
tensile strength.
I leave my pivot bolt just loose enough to swivel at will and since it wants
to always pivot up due to resistance and/or boyancy, I the line and a cleat
to adjust the height. Something automatic would be nice but on my boat with
just a main sheet and rudder, I'm not too busy when beaching.
I would not want a spring loaded tensioner as it would tend to drag the
board across the rocks or beach tearing it up. (same with lead weight) I'd
rather it just pop up out of the way.
Jeff
Lead certainly works, and if the right amount is put in, I.E., just
enough to sink the board, then it doesn't affect the trim of the boat
even with the sideboards ala Michalak.
My AF2 doesnt use lead, or cleats, you simply adjust the tension on
the wing nut, and it just kind of stays down.
I'm building a Chebacco, and would like the ability to cleat the
board in a partway down position. I don't think the wing nut setup
would work. It has lead to pull the board down, but what if you want
it halfway down to trim the helm?
Also, was thinking of the new Bolger leeboard design ala Martha Jane
and Jochems Schooner. With both a downhaul and an uphaul, you would
need to cleat the boards in the postion you wanted them to be in. I
figured someone might want a cleating system that would release if
they ran aground and/or abeach, instead of pulling a cleat out of the
hull...
Any builders of New MJ of JS want to pitch in and tell us how they do
the board thing?
enough to sink the board, then it doesn't affect the trim of the boat
even with the sideboards ala Michalak.
My AF2 doesnt use lead, or cleats, you simply adjust the tension on
the wing nut, and it just kind of stays down.
I'm building a Chebacco, and would like the ability to cleat the
board in a partway down position. I don't think the wing nut setup
would work. It has lead to pull the board down, but what if you want
it halfway down to trim the helm?
Also, was thinking of the new Bolger leeboard design ala Martha Jane
and Jochems Schooner. With both a downhaul and an uphaul, you would
need to cleat the boards in the postion you wanted them to be in. I
figured someone might want a cleating system that would release if
they ran aground and/or abeach, instead of pulling a cleat out of the
hull...
Any builders of New MJ of JS want to pitch in and tell us how they do
the board thing?
--- In bolger@y..., "Johannes Gustafsson" <boathead5@y...> wrote:
> Here's how dumb I am:
>
> Why not just stay with the traditional lead weight let into the
> board, if it won't otherwise stay reliably down. It's not that
hard
> to accomplish, and then you have no moving mechanical parts to
cause
> consternation, and nothing fiddly to reset every time you want to
> adjust the depth of your board. Sorry if this has been dealt with
> already, but what am I missing? These look like clever and
elaborate
> solutions, I'm just not yet aware of the problem. Can someone clue
> me in?
>
> Johannes
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> > Clayton:
> >
> > This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I
> especially like
> > to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass
> hinges have
> > steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize
a
> hinge
> > with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
> >
> > It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own
set
> of
> > familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of
> spare
> > parts.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > > Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot
> easier (and
> > > less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass
> > > door hinge
> > > (maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee)
> for the
> > > leeboard release?
> > >
> > > If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for
the
> lanyard
> > > the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out
> when it
> > > releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when
> > > the leeboard
> > > was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the
> > > leeboard is
> > > back down.
> > >
> > > Just an idea.
> > >
> > > Claton Cadmus
> > >
Johannes:
Actually, that is a pretty good solution, although, there might be a problem
with a Michalak-type leeboard which is really an off-centerboard. I am not
sure how much weight it would take to sink the thing, and I don't know if
that would otherwise affect the trim of the boat. In my case, I like to
beach the boat (we have lots of beaches on the Gulf Coast) and I have found
that with this system, I can head straight for the beach and the board will
take care of itself while I tend to the sails, etc. It is one of those "to
each his own" things.
Chuck
Actually, that is a pretty good solution, although, there might be a problem
with a Michalak-type leeboard which is really an off-centerboard. I am not
sure how much weight it would take to sink the thing, and I don't know if
that would otherwise affect the trim of the boat. In my case, I like to
beach the boat (we have lots of beaches on the Gulf Coast) and I have found
that with this system, I can head straight for the beach and the board will
take care of itself while I tend to the sails, etc. It is one of those "to
each his own" things.
Chuck
>
>
> Here's how dumb I am:
>
> Why not just stay with the traditional lead weight let into the
> board, if it won't otherwise stay reliably down. It's not that hard
> to accomplish, and then you have no moving mechanical parts to cause
> consternation, and nothing fiddly to reset every time you want to
> adjust the depth of your board. Sorry if this has been dealt with
> already, but what am I missing? These look like clever and elaborate
> solutions, I'm just not yet aware of the problem. Can someone clue
> me in?
>
> Johannes
>
Clayton:
You and Peter are right. I was a little hasty in denigrating hinges
outright, and in fact, there are bronze springs. The point is; I had a
bungee cord, a piece of aluminum plate, and a couple of SS bolts. Since I
live thirty miles from town, I try to make do with what I have, rather than
run to the store. Had I lived in a city, I probably would have come up with
an entirely different solution. Sometimes, great ideas come from rethinking
old ways of doing things - so I had a shot even if I did fall way short.
Chuck
You and Peter are right. I was a little hasty in denigrating hinges
outright, and in fact, there are bronze springs. The point is; I had a
bungee cord, a piece of aluminum plate, and a couple of SS bolts. Since I
live thirty miles from town, I try to make do with what I have, rather than
run to the store. Had I lived in a city, I probably would have come up with
an entirely different solution. Sometimes, great ideas come from rethinking
old ways of doing things - so I had a shot even if I did fall way short.
Chuck
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I can see your point, but it would be a simple matter to use a stainless
> steel hinge or replace the steel pin with a brass or stainless one as most
> hinge pins are a standard rod diameter. As for the spring you are quite
> right there, even in fresh water the spring might only last a
> season. Still
> it's cheap and easy to replace too. Just thought it sounded like an idea
> that might make it easier for more people to build such a release.
>
> Later, Claton Cadmus
>
Here's how dumb I am:
Why not just stay with the traditional lead weight let into the
board, if it won't otherwise stay reliably down. It's not that hard
to accomplish, and then you have no moving mechanical parts to cause
consternation, and nothing fiddly to reset every time you want to
adjust the depth of your board. Sorry if this has been dealt with
already, but what am I missing? These look like clever and elaborate
solutions, I'm just not yet aware of the problem. Can someone clue
me in?
Johannes
Why not just stay with the traditional lead weight let into the
board, if it won't otherwise stay reliably down. It's not that hard
to accomplish, and then you have no moving mechanical parts to cause
consternation, and nothing fiddly to reset every time you want to
adjust the depth of your board. Sorry if this has been dealt with
already, but what am I missing? These look like clever and elaborate
solutions, I'm just not yet aware of the problem. Can someone clue
me in?
Johannes
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Clayton:
>
> This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I
especially like
> to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass
hinges have
> steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a
hinge
> with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
>
> It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own set
of
> familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of
spare
> parts.
>
> Chuck
>
> > Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot
easier (and
> > less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass
> > door hinge
> > (maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee)
for the
> > leeboard release?
> >
> > If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the
lanyard
> > the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out
when it
> > releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when
> > the leeboard
> > was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the
> > leeboard is
> > back down.
> >
> > Just an idea.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
> >
No reason you couldn't build mine out of epoxy, glass, and wood. The
forces aren't really high enough to justfy metal, Chuck and I just
like playing with it.
Say, make the arm out of thin strips of oak laminated into a curve. 1
1/4" square should do it. Could probably go to 1" square. Make the
stop just a block of plywood, and put a rubber pad on it to absorb
inpacts. The cleats you would just buy, of course. Same with the
bungie.
Pivot a 3/8" galvanized bolt.
forces aren't really high enough to justfy metal, Chuck and I just
like playing with it.
Say, make the arm out of thin strips of oak laminated into a curve. 1
1/4" square should do it. Could probably go to 1" square. Make the
stop just a block of plywood, and put a rubber pad on it to absorb
inpacts. The cleats you would just buy, of course. Same with the
bungie.
Pivot a 3/8" galvanized bolt.
--- In bolger@y..., cla@m... wrote:
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I can see your point, but it would be a simple matter to use a
stainless
> steel hinge or replace the steel pin with a brass or stainless one
as most
> hinge pins are a standard rod diameter. As for the spring you are
quite
> right there, even in fresh water the spring might only last a
season. Still
> it's cheap and easy to replace too. Just thought it sounded like
an idea
> that might make it easier for more people to build such a release.
>
> Later, Claton Cadmus
>
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> >
> > This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I
especially
> like
> > to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass
hinges
> have
> > steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize
a hinge
> > with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
Most boats that I know of have hinges on cockpit lockers, such as
those sold at West Marine, etc. The ususal sort of thing is chrome
plated brass. The quality is medicore, but they do work.
And then, there are the galvanized hinges at the hardware store.
PHV
those sold at West Marine, etc. The ususal sort of thing is chrome
plated brass. The quality is medicore, but they do work.
And then, there are the galvanized hinges at the hardware store.
PHV
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Clayton:
>
> This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I
especially like
> to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass
hinges have
> steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a
hinge
> with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
>
> It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own set
of
> familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of
spare
> parts.
>
> Chuck
>
> > Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot
easier (and
> > less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass
> > door hinge
> > (maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee)
for the
> > leeboard release?
> >
> > If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the
lanyard
> > the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out
when it
> > releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when
> > the leeboard
> > was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the
> > leeboard is
> > back down.
> >
> > Just an idea.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
> >
Hi Chuck,
I can see your point, but it would be a simple matter to use a stainless
steel hinge or replace the steel pin with a brass or stainless one as most
hinge pins are a standard rod diameter. As for the spring you are quite
right there, even in fresh water the spring might only last a season. Still
it's cheap and easy to replace too. Just thought it sounded like an idea
that might make it easier for more people to build such a release.
Later, Claton Cadmus
From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
I can see your point, but it would be a simple matter to use a stainless
steel hinge or replace the steel pin with a brass or stainless one as most
hinge pins are a standard rod diameter. As for the spring you are quite
right there, even in fresh water the spring might only last a season. Still
it's cheap and easy to replace too. Just thought it sounded like an idea
that might make it easier for more people to build such a release.
Later, Claton Cadmus
From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
>like
> This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I especially
> to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass hingeshave
> steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a hinge
> with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
I wanted to separate the pivot and pull axis. I figured if the pull
and pivot axis are very close, you get a non-linear release. I.E.,
because they are so close, it takes a large whack on the bottom of
the board to activate the release. I wanted them far enough appart
that I could tune the "whack force" buy adjusting the bungie.
and pivot axis are very close, you get a non-linear release. I.E.,
because they are so close, it takes a large whack on the bottom of
the board to activate the release. I wanted them far enough appart
that I could tune the "whack force" buy adjusting the bungie.
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Clayton:
>
> This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I
especially like
> to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass
hinges have
> steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a
hinge
> with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
>
> It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own set
of
> familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of
spare
> parts.
>
> Chuck
>
> > Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot
easier (and
> > less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass
> > door hinge
> > (maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee)
for the
> > leeboard release?
> >
> > If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the
lanyard
> > the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out
when it
> > releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when
> > the leeboard
> > was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the
> > leeboard is
> > back down.
> >
> > Just an idea.
> >
> > Claton Cadmus
> >
Clayton:
This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I especially like
to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass hinges have
steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a hinge
with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own set of
familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of spare
parts.
Chuck
This would not be a consideration for everyone, but since I especially like
to sail in salt water, steel springs are out. Also, most brass hinges have
steel pins in them. A week in salt water will pretty much seize a hinge
with a steel pin, or ruin a steel spring.
It is interesting how people approach a problem with their own set of
familiarities and skills, not to mention their own assortment of spare
parts.
Chuck
> Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot easier (and
> less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass
> door hinge
> (maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee) for the
> leeboard release?
>
> If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the lanyard
> the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out when it
> releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when
> the leeboard
> was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the
> leeboard is
> back down.
>
> Just an idea.
>
> Claton Cadmus
>
Maybe this has been mentioned, but wouldn't it just be a lot easier (and
less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass door hinge
(maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee) for the
leeboard release?
If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the lanyard
the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out when it
releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when the leeboard
was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the leeboard is
back down.
Just an idea.
Claton Cadmus
less expensive/time consuming) to mount the jam cleat on a brass door hinge
(maybe even a spring loaded gate hinge to eliminate the bungee) for the
leeboard release?
If you mounted an eye on the aft end behind the jam cleat for the lanyard
the hinge could be mounted flat against the hull and swing out when it
releases. The eye would hold the lanyard in position and when the leeboard
was free and hinge returned a quick pull on the lanyard and the leeboard is
back down.
Just an idea.
Claton Cadmus
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 21:23
Subject: [bolger] Re: had an inspiration
> Probably, and mill them on the mill I'm making. Will work good on the
> Chebacco, don't need it on the AF2.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> > That'll work. Are you going to cast the parts? - Chuck
> >
> > >
> > > Posted a drawing of my rendition of a board release setup for
> > > centerboards and leeboards. Ideas liberally stolen from
> everybody.
> > >
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/leeboard_release.bmp
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
>
