[bolger] Re: frame bevelling queston
FBBB --
When I build the bulkheads for my scooner, I drew and cut them out a
1/2 inch oversized and glued up the framing to match. Then I cut the
bevels in with a skil saw.
The transom has one bevel that is "reversed" from the rest -- the
framing is wider than the plywood, and I inadvertently saved that one
with the above approach. If I had cut the ply to size and match with
framing, I wouldn't have been able to make the "reverse" bevel.
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
When I build the bulkheads for my scooner, I drew and cut them out a
1/2 inch oversized and glued up the framing to match. Then I cut the
bevels in with a skil saw.
The transom has one bevel that is "reversed" from the rest -- the
framing is wider than the plywood, and I inadvertently saved that one
with the above approach. If I had cut the ply to size and match with
framing, I wouldn't have been able to make the "reverse" bevel.
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
I am hardly the person to be giving advice here as I have only a
little experience and that was long ago, but....
When I built my Elegant Punt, I built all the frames with square
edges and then ran the edges thru the table saw to put create the
bevel. Given that I had about the worst table saw in existence and it
came out alright, I think that could work for most small boat work.
Otherwise for a quick and dirty boat, I would combine that method
with the Michilak method by making the frame with a square edge and
sawing the bevel free hand with circular saw or sabre saw, and using
a generous butter of thickened epoxy to make up for the unevenness of
the saw cut.
Peter
little experience and that was long ago, but....
When I built my Elegant Punt, I built all the frames with square
edges and then ran the edges thru the table saw to put create the
bevel. Given that I had about the worst table saw in existence and it
came out alright, I think that could work for most small boat work.
Otherwise for a quick and dirty boat, I would combine that method
with the Michilak method by making the frame with a square edge and
sawing the bevel free hand with circular saw or sabre saw, and using
a generous butter of thickened epoxy to make up for the unevenness of
the saw cut.
Peter
I was reading how Jim Michalak did his frame bevels and was wondering
how others did it. Here are the choices:
1. Do it properly by bevelling framing stock and plywood
2. Do it Jims way by leaving plywood square. "Outys" , described
below is where bevelled framing stock sweeps outward from
plywood. "Innys" is where bevelled framing stock sweeps inward.
"Outys" are aligned with opposite (dimensioned) face of plywood which
leaves a little triangular gap, to be filled in with epoxy. This
helps to seal the edge of the plywood.
"Innys" are aligned with the opposite (dimensioned) face of plywood,
which creates a little trianular bump in the plywood, which is shaved
off (creating a bevel in the plywood). However, if the bevel isn't
too severe, the stock is aligned with the facing side, again creating
a gap, and making the panel slightly wider.
I was wondering if in the "inny" step above if it were better to put
the framing stock where it belonged, but cutting the plywood square
to the edge of the stock. That way it would have a gap for extra
epoxy to seal the end grain, and at least the framing stock would be
at the correct width. I can't imagine that bevelled plywood would be
very strong.
Who thinks I'm going overboard?
If I've lost anybody see Jim's drawings at
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1998/0215/index.htm
how others did it. Here are the choices:
1. Do it properly by bevelling framing stock and plywood
2. Do it Jims way by leaving plywood square. "Outys" , described
below is where bevelled framing stock sweeps outward from
plywood. "Innys" is where bevelled framing stock sweeps inward.
"Outys" are aligned with opposite (dimensioned) face of plywood which
leaves a little triangular gap, to be filled in with epoxy. This
helps to seal the edge of the plywood.
"Innys" are aligned with the opposite (dimensioned) face of plywood,
which creates a little trianular bump in the plywood, which is shaved
off (creating a bevel in the plywood). However, if the bevel isn't
too severe, the stock is aligned with the facing side, again creating
a gap, and making the panel slightly wider.
I was wondering if in the "inny" step above if it were better to put
the framing stock where it belonged, but cutting the plywood square
to the edge of the stock. That way it would have a gap for extra
epoxy to seal the end grain, and at least the framing stock would be
at the correct width. I can't imagine that bevelled plywood would be
very strong.
Who thinks I'm going overboard?
If I've lost anybody see Jim's drawings at
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/1998/0215/index.htm