Re: Glass bottom boats, again
Agreed.
I build furniture for a living and have bought a lot of
glass from a friend of mine who has been in the glass business
for a long time.
I asked him the question of a "Window" in the bottom of a small
boat.
His immediate reply was 1/4 lexan. He called it "Bulletproof".
(Not literally of course, but very strong.)
He said to just cut a hole 2" smaller than the lexan, and set it
in some kind of bedding compound, using many screws to attach.
He said you could go through and screw into bottom, or even screw
through bottom into the lexan. If using screws through lexan
Do Not use flatnead screws, but use a pan screw or sheetmetal screw.
If you wanted to get more complicated, you could build a box inside
the boat (similar to a centerboard box) that would sandwitch the
lexan between the box and the bottom and also server to block outside
light making viewing better.
Also, if top of box were above waterline it would prevent boat
from flooding if lexan were broken.
Scratching is a problem,and maybe a sacrificial piece of plex would
be a good idea.
See below for cutting and drilling. Good info. Thanks
I build furniture for a living and have bought a lot of
glass from a friend of mine who has been in the glass business
for a long time.
I asked him the question of a "Window" in the bottom of a small
boat.
His immediate reply was 1/4 lexan. He called it "Bulletproof".
(Not literally of course, but very strong.)
He said to just cut a hole 2" smaller than the lexan, and set it
in some kind of bedding compound, using many screws to attach.
He said you could go through and screw into bottom, or even screw
through bottom into the lexan. If using screws through lexan
Do Not use flatnead screws, but use a pan screw or sheetmetal screw.
If you wanted to get more complicated, you could build a box inside
the boat (similar to a centerboard box) that would sandwitch the
lexan between the box and the bottom and also server to block outside
light making viewing better.
Also, if top of box were above waterline it would prevent boat
from flooding if lexan were broken.
Scratching is a problem,and maybe a sacrificial piece of plex would
be a good idea.
See below for cutting and drilling. Good info. Thanks
--- In bolger@e..., tcomrie@y... wrote:
> Do not use any tempered glass (and this includes laminated auto
> glass). Tempered glass is heated and cooled quickly which sets
> up internal tension in the sheet. This tension makes the glass
> strong, but any force concentrated in a small area (such as bang
on
> a rock) would shatter the glass. Untempered glass would work better,
> as long as it is very thick.
>
> The best material would be acrylic (is that what lexan is?) Large
> tanks in public aquaria are made of this material. Search out
makers
> of custom aquariums for scrap pieces. To protect from scratches use
a
> replacable sheet of thin plexiglas over the port on the
> bottom. Also, scratches can be removed using a product like Coralife
> Acrylic Buffer/Polisher
>
>http://www.esuweb.com/HTML/C_PROD/01200.htm
>
> see
>
>http://www.actwin.com/fish/diy/acrylic.html
>
> for acrylic tips
>
> -- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> > I keep thinking about adding a viewing port through the bottom of
> my
> > pirogue -- but as chronicled here, Lexan scratches easily; shelf
> > glass can shatter; and I haven't been able to find a good-sized
> piece
> > of laminated auto glass.
> >
> > Short of finding small bits of bullet-proof glass, how about
using
> > the tempered glass out of an old diving mask? I think I even have
> one
> > in the house somewhere. And they'd certainly be a good $2 yard-
sale
> > item.
> >
> > Anyone know its strengths and weaknesses? Does it shatter, too?
> >
> > (Next stop: Pyrex bakeware . . . )
> >
> > All best,
> > Garth
Lexan is MUCH tougher then plexiglass. You can easily drill holes in
it without any special care, without cracking, and it cuts with a
bandsaw nicely as long as you keep the feedrate down so as not to melt
tough chunks of plastic onto the blade, which might snap it. I seem
to remember you can bend 1/8" Lexan at least 90 degrees on a small
radius before it starts to crack. I had a mockup of a pc board in a
model of an electronic enclosure I was working on. Would punch it hard
to amuse people. When I was in school we had some break ins so we put
thin (1/16"?1/8"?) Lexan behind some vulnerable windows. Twice the
burglars tried breaking the glass but could not break the Lexan. Plexi
is tougher than glass, but it's nowhere near as tough as Lexan. Get a
piece (aka polycarbonate, and you want 100%, not a blend) and mess
with it, you'll be impressed.
P.S. Lexan can be hot formed like Plexi, but it takes a higher
temperature to do it.
it without any special care, without cracking, and it cuts with a
bandsaw nicely as long as you keep the feedrate down so as not to melt
tough chunks of plastic onto the blade, which might snap it. I seem
to remember you can bend 1/8" Lexan at least 90 degrees on a small
radius before it starts to crack. I had a mockup of a pc board in a
model of an electronic enclosure I was working on. Would punch it hard
to amuse people. When I was in school we had some break ins so we put
thin (1/16"?1/8"?) Lexan behind some vulnerable windows. Twice the
burglars tried breaking the glass but could not break the Lexan. Plexi
is tougher than glass, but it's nowhere near as tough as Lexan. Get a
piece (aka polycarbonate, and you want 100%, not a blend) and mess
with it, you'll be impressed.
P.S. Lexan can be hot formed like Plexi, but it takes a higher
temperature to do it.
--- In bolger@y..., tcomrie@y... wrote:
>snipped part re breaking tempered glass
>
> The best material would be acrylic (is that what lexan is?) Large
> tanks in public aquaria are made of this material. Search out makers
> of custom aquariums for scrap pieces. To protect from scratches use
a
> replacable sheet of thin plexiglas over the port on the
> bottom. Also, scratches can be removed using a product like Coralife
> Acrylic Buffer/Polisher
>
>http://www.esuweb.com/HTML/C_PROD/01200.htm
>
> see
>
>http://www.actwin.com/fish/diy/acrylic.html
>
> for acrylic tips
>
> -- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> > I keep thinking about adding a viewing port through the bottom of
> my
> snip
Sorry, no idea. If you don't find anything, maybe you could iron
plastic film over a low temperature clear wax. (No, I don't know where
to get that either.) Maybe laminating film like they use at the
library? Clear Monokote from the RC airplane hobby shop.
plastic film over a low temperature clear wax. (No, I don't know where
to get that either.) Maybe laminating film like they use at the
library? Clear Monokote from the RC airplane hobby shop.
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
>
> Thanks, Lincoln. This sounds like the best idea yet. Any idea where
> to get the stick-on film? I'll go surf through some motorcycle
sites.
> Funny the places Bolger boat building can take you. . . .
>
> Garth
----- Original Message -----
From: <garth@...>
> and I haven't been able to find a good-sized piece
> of laminated auto glass.
Have you tried a local auto glass replacement shop? I'm sure if you
explained what you wanted it for they could cut you a piece. You probably
wouldn't even be charged for the material as it could come from a good flat
section of a broken windshield. Another alternative would be to use a sheet
of window glass backed up by a sheet of lexan. Glass on the water side of
course. Then even if the glass broke you would sink and replacing it is
cheap.
Claton Cadmus
Do not use any tempered glass (and this includes laminated auto
glass). Tempered glass is heated and cooled quickly which sets
up internal tension in the sheet. This tension makes the glass
strong, but any force concentrated in a small area (such as bang on
a rock) would shatter the glass. Untempered glass would work better,
as long as it is very thick.
The best material would be acrylic (is that what lexan is?) Large
tanks in public aquaria are made of this material. Search out makers
of custom aquariums for scrap pieces. To protect from scratches use a
replacable sheet of thin plexiglas over the port on the
bottom. Also, scratches can be removed using a product like Coralife
Acrylic Buffer/Polisher
http://www.esuweb.com/HTML/C_PROD/01200.htm
see
http://www.actwin.com/fish/diy/acrylic.html
for acrylic tips
-- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
glass). Tempered glass is heated and cooled quickly which sets
up internal tension in the sheet. This tension makes the glass
strong, but any force concentrated in a small area (such as bang on
a rock) would shatter the glass. Untempered glass would work better,
as long as it is very thick.
The best material would be acrylic (is that what lexan is?) Large
tanks in public aquaria are made of this material. Search out makers
of custom aquariums for scrap pieces. To protect from scratches use a
replacable sheet of thin plexiglas over the port on the
bottom. Also, scratches can be removed using a product like Coralife
Acrylic Buffer/Polisher
http://www.esuweb.com/HTML/C_PROD/01200.htm
see
http://www.actwin.com/fish/diy/acrylic.html
for acrylic tips
-- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I keep thinking about adding a viewing port through the bottom ofmy
> pirogue -- but as chronicled here, Lexan scratches easily; shelfpiece
> glass can shatter; and I haven't been able to find a good-sized
> of laminated auto glass.one
>
> Short of finding small bits of bullet-proof glass, how about using
> the tempered glass out of an old diving mask? I think I even have
> in the house somewhere. And they'd certainly be a good $2 yard-sale
> item.
>
> Anyone know its strengths and weaknesses? Does it shatter, too?
>
> (Next stop: Pyrex bakeware . . . )
>
> All best,
> Garth
Thanks, Lincoln. This sounds like the best idea yet. Any idea where
to get the stick-on film? I'll go surf through some motorcycle sites.
Funny the places Bolger boat building can take you. . . .
Garth
to get the stick-on film? I'll go surf through some motorcycle sites.
Funny the places Bolger boat building can take you. . . .
Garth
I am under the impression you can break dive masks. Why don't you use
Lexan with something thin, replaceable, and transparent to protect it?
I seem to recall the offroad motorcycle guys have these peel off
shields that stick on their helmet face shields and can be peeled when
they get dirty.
Lexan with something thin, replaceable, and transparent to protect it?
I seem to recall the offroad motorcycle guys have these peel off
shields that stick on their helmet face shields and can be peeled when
they get dirty.
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I keep thinking about adding a viewing port through the bottom of my
> pirogue -- but as chronicled here, Lexan scratches easily; shelf
> glass can shatter; and I haven't been able to find a good-sized
piece
> of laminated auto glass.
>
> Short of finding small bits of bullet-proof glass, how about using
> the tempered glass out of an old diving mask? I think I even have
one
> in the house somewhere. And they'd certainly be a good $2 yard-sale
> item.
>
> Anyone know its strengths and weaknesses? Does it shatter, too?
>
> (Next stop: Pyrex bakeware . . . )
>
> All best,
> Garth
I keep thinking about adding a viewing port through the bottom of my
pirogue -- but as chronicled here, Lexan scratches easily; shelf
glass can shatter; and I haven't been able to find a good-sized piece
of laminated auto glass.
Short of finding small bits of bullet-proof glass, how about using
the tempered glass out of an old diving mask? I think I even have one
in the house somewhere. And they'd certainly be a good $2 yard-sale
item.
Anyone know its strengths and weaknesses? Does it shatter, too?
(Next stop: Pyrex bakeware . . . )
All best,
Garth
pirogue -- but as chronicled here, Lexan scratches easily; shelf
glass can shatter; and I haven't been able to find a good-sized piece
of laminated auto glass.
Short of finding small bits of bullet-proof glass, how about using
the tempered glass out of an old diving mask? I think I even have one
in the house somewhere. And they'd certainly be a good $2 yard-sale
item.
Anyone know its strengths and weaknesses? Does it shatter, too?
(Next stop: Pyrex bakeware . . . )
All best,
Garth