Re: [bolger] Re: stimson marine - shed
Hello All,
I built the Stimson shed last year for my 37' trawler. I found the directions to be straight forward. My shed is toward the upper limit as I built 20' bows and then added short extensions to them. The length is about 44'. It was built to be used as a paint shed. We did from the waterline to the rub rail (awlgrip) last spring and planned to do from the rail up this spring. It now looks like it will have to wait until next year. We are approaching the end of a complete gut and restoration job that is entering it's fifth year but we use the boat every season. The shed has held up well (in southeastern CT) and will last another year easily. I would be happy to answer any questions anyone may have.
Rob
I built the Stimson shed last year for my 37' trawler. I found the directions to be straight forward. My shed is toward the upper limit as I built 20' bows and then added short extensions to them. The length is about 44'. It was built to be used as a paint shed. We did from the waterline to the rub rail (awlgrip) last spring and planned to do from the rail up this spring. It now looks like it will have to wait until next year. We are approaching the end of a complete gut and restoration job that is entering it's fifth year but we use the boat every season. The shed has held up well (in southeastern CT) and will last another year easily. I would be happy to answer any questions anyone may have.
Rob
For my boat building project I went to Lowes and got one of those 10'
by 20' galvanized steel pole structures. It was about $170. It
comes in a box about 8"x16"x6' and can be put up in 1/2 hour. I then
put a huge tarp over the whole mess. It keeps rain out perfectly.
After I finish building my boat I can use it for camping, etc.
You'll want to stake this to the ground if there's a lot of wind.
Will
by 20' galvanized steel pole structures. It was about $170. It
comes in a box about 8"x16"x6' and can be put up in 1/2 hour. I then
put a huge tarp over the whole mess. It keeps rain out perfectly.
After I finish building my boat I can use it for camping, etc.
You'll want to stake this to the ground if there's a lot of wind.
Will
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> hello there,
>
> I have built my last two boats, a tortoise and a zephyr, out in the
> open. i have been lucky with the weather, but it has been
stressfull
> at times.
> Sometime ago I came across plans for a very smart & good looking
> shelter at:
>
>http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
>
> it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
> has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
> has anyone done business with them??
> (i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
>
> hannes
>
> (who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
Here is a picture of the shed under construction:
http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/harrowhtm/status3.htm
David Jost
The Gougeon brothers book on (W.E.S.T. System) boat construction
feature this kind of shed in chapter 4
Dick Pilz
feature this kind of shed in chapter 4
Dick Pilz
--- In bolger@y..., "wwwind2002" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> paul,
> if you stumble over this book again, let me know. the plans might
> still arrive any day, but i'm quite interested in variations on the
> theme!
>
> hannes
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> > This looks very familiar to a shed I've seen in some book - I
> thought it was
> > Buehler's? Anyway the book I'm thinking of has 'plans', sort of -
> tells how
> > to dimension the lumber for the size shed you want, etc
paul,
if you stumble over this book again, let me know. the plans might
still arrive any day, but i'm quite interested in variations on the
theme!
hannes
if you stumble over this book again, let me know. the plans might
still arrive any day, but i'm quite interested in variations on the
theme!
hannes
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> This looks very familiar to a shed I've seen in some book - I
thought it was
> Buehler's? Anyway the book I'm thinking of has 'plans', sort of -
tells how
> to dimension the lumber for the size shed you want, etc
I've dealt with Mr. Stimson for lumber and plans. He is a small
operation and on a different pace than some commercial enterprises so,
if he's away or backlogged, order filling can take a while. He was
helpful and fine to deal with though.
Jon Pitkin.
operation and on a different pace than some commercial enterprises so,
if he's away or backlogged, order filling can take a while. He was
helpful and fine to deal with though.
Jon Pitkin.
> > >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
> > >
> > > it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
> > > has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
> > > has anyone done business with them??
> > > (i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
> > >
> > > hannes
> > >
> > > (who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >
> >
> >
Hannes,
I haven't done business with them, but Wooden Boat published a book ("25
Woodworking Projects") that detailed building a similar shed of
respectable size and strength. The link is at
http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/Prodinfo.asp?number=325-107
<http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/Prodinfo.asp?number=325-107&it
em=1> &item=1
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Hannes [mailto:h.kuehtreiber@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:09 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] stimson marine - shed
hello there,
I have built my last two boats, a tortoise and a zephyr, out in the
open. i have been lucky with the weather, but it has been stressfull
at times.
Sometime ago I came across plans for a very smart & good looking
shelter at:
http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
has anyone done business with them??
(i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
hannes
(who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I haven't done business with them, but Wooden Boat published a book ("25
Woodworking Projects") that detailed building a similar shed of
respectable size and strength. The link is at
http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/Prodinfo.asp?number=325-107
<http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/Prodinfo.asp?number=325-107&it
em=1> &item=1
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Hannes [mailto:h.kuehtreiber@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:09 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] stimson marine - shed
hello there,
I have built my last two boats, a tortoise and a zephyr, out in the
open. i have been lucky with the weather, but it has been stressfull
at times.
Sometime ago I came across plans for a very smart & good looking
shelter at:
http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
has anyone done business with them??
(i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
hannes
(who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=217097.1902236.3397169.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=960173/R=0/*http://service.bfast.com/bfast/click?bfmid=29150
849&siteid=39249818&bfpage=moneyyahoo4>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=217097.1902236.3397169.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=960173/rand=724600528>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
This looks very familiar to a shed I've seen in some book - I thought it was
Buehler's? Anyway the book I'm thinking of has 'plans', sort of - tells how
to dimension the lumber for the size shed you want, etc. Might save a few
bucks in plans prices. I've seen a few here on Cape Cod, of various sizes,
they seem to hold up well when covered with the right kind of plastic (one
or two nearby have a white opaque plastic that has held up well).
Paul L.
Buehler's? Anyway the book I'm thinking of has 'plans', sort of - tells how
to dimension the lumber for the size shed you want, etc. Might save a few
bucks in plans prices. I've seen a few here on Cape Cod, of various sizes,
they seem to hold up well when covered with the right kind of plastic (one
or two nearby have a white opaque plastic that has held up well).
Paul L.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GarthAB [mailto:garth@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:32 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: stimson marine - shed
>
>
> Hannes --
>
> Thanks for that link. That structure looks like a good compromise
> between the PVC-pipe greenhouse I was thinking of building, and the
> big pole barn I probably should build, to house some of my larger
> boat fantasies (25' Chebacco and eventually a 50' George Buehler
> Dragonfly). Very elegant design. But I haven't heard of anyone who's
> made one.
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
> >
> >http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
> >
> > it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
> > has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
> > has anyone done business with them??
> > (i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
> >
> > hannes
> >
> > (who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
A fellow boat builder in the next town over has constructed one to
work on the rebuilding of a 32' Sparkman and Stevens sloop. He
reports that the shed is fairly easy and inexpensive to build, but
the plans/support from Stimson were lacking. He hit a couple of
snags in the process and needed to figure things out for himself.
David Jost
"Ashland, Massachusetts"
work on the rebuilding of a 32' Sparkman and Stevens sloop. He
reports that the shed is fairly easy and inexpensive to build, but
the plans/support from Stimson were lacking. He hit a couple of
snags in the process and needed to figure things out for himself.
David Jost
"Ashland, Massachusetts"
Hannes --
Thanks for that link. That structure looks like a good compromise
between the PVC-pipe greenhouse I was thinking of building, and the
big pole barn I probably should build, to house some of my larger
boat fantasies (25' Chebacco and eventually a 50' George Buehler
Dragonfly). Very elegant design. But I haven't heard of anyone who's
made one.
All best,
Garth
Thanks for that link. That structure looks like a good compromise
between the PVC-pipe greenhouse I was thinking of building, and the
big pole barn I probably should build, to house some of my larger
boat fantasies (25' Chebacco and eventually a 50' George Buehler
Dragonfly). Very elegant design. But I haven't heard of anyone who's
made one.
All best,
Garth
>
>http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
>
> it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
> has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
> has anyone done business with them??
> (i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
>
> hannes
>
> (who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
hello there,
I have built my last two boats, a tortoise and a zephyr, out in the
open. i have been lucky with the weather, but it has been stressfull
at times.
Sometime ago I came across plans for a very smart & good looking
shelter at:
http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
has anyone done business with them??
(i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
hannes
(who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
I have built my last two boats, a tortoise and a zephyr, out in the
open. i have been lucky with the weather, but it has been stressfull
at times.
Sometime ago I came across plans for a very smart & good looking
shelter at:
http://www.by-the-sea.com/stimsonmarine/index.html
it looks like it might resist the winds we have round here.
has anyone built one of these interesting structures?
has anyone done business with them??
(i have sent for plans more then a month ago, no response so far)
hannes
(who might build just one more boat this summer ...)
--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
I guess this will only work if there is sufficient free halyard
between the mast and the yard.
I used to let go the sheet of my Cynthia J. in times of crisis, and
get to a stable position with the sail out in front of the boat. But
you have to trim the sail in on the proper side or the halyards will
get in a mess.
PHV
> "So i had to use the secret weapon: let go theof the mast."
> sheet to allow the sail to go forward and gybe it around in front
I guess this will only work if there is sufficient free halyard
between the mast and the yard.
I used to let go the sheet of my Cynthia J. in times of crisis, and
get to a stable position with the sail out in front of the boat. But
you have to trim the sail in on the proper side or the halyards will
get in a mess.
PHV
On 11 Sep 2001, at 15:59,pateson@...wrote:
trick with any unstayed rig (a boom and gooseck would not work
very well either)
came around the buoy while i was fooling around ...
good. the green tarp sail is, errr, a matter of taste ....
hannes
>it is a standard lateen rig, like a sunfish. but you could play the
> I guess I plead ignorance. I don't know the "Zeppher" Rig.
> "Windsurfer Jibe" Very nice.
trick with any unstayed rig (a boom and gooseck would not work
very well either)
> Sounds like one of my early Hobie races. "Survivor Wins."dont get the impression i am a racer. its just that a couple of boats
> I may not have been the fastest sailer, but I kept it upright.
came around the buoy while i was fooling around ...
> Any pictures of "Zepher"?no pics so far but the black and white bolger color scheme looks
>
good. the green tarp sail is, errr, a matter of taste ....
hannes
"So i had to use the secret weapon: let go the
sheet to allow the sail to go forward and gybe it around in front of
the mast.)"
I guess I plead ignorance. I don't know the "Zeppher" Rig.
"Windsurfer Jibe" Very nice.
One way to beat the other, faster, boats, just wait for
them to all blow over, and hope they don't blow over
right in front of you, or on Top of you.
Sounds like one of my early Hobie races. "Survivor Wins."
I may not have been the fastest sailer, but I kept it upright.
Sounds like an interesting first sail, not too many "Bugs".
Any pictures of "Zepher"?
Thanks
Pat
Don't say the "S" word.
sheet to allow the sail to go forward and gybe it around in front of
the mast.)"
I guess I plead ignorance. I don't know the "Zeppher" Rig.
"Windsurfer Jibe" Very nice.
One way to beat the other, faster, boats, just wait for
them to all blow over, and hope they don't blow over
right in front of you, or on Top of you.
Sounds like one of my early Hobie races. "Survivor Wins."
I may not have been the fastest sailer, but I kept it upright.
Sounds like an interesting first sail, not too many "Bugs".
Any pictures of "Zepher"?
Thanks
Pat
Don't say the "S" word.
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
I launched my zephyr this weekend on a mountain lake, the only
body of water around here.
wind was 3-4, with strong gusts, and very shifty. there was a
regatta and a handful of boats capsized. not really ideal for a first
outing, but i'd still call it a success.
The boat flies off the wind - went almost as fast as a 470 with
spinnaker, but I caught him when he capsized in a gust (which
almost got me, too. So i had to use the secret weapon: let go the
sheet to allow the sail to go forward and gybe it around in front of
the mast.) still a bit scary: with one aboard the boat is quite tender,
as you would expect from the narrow beam. in this sort of wind the
80 sqft sail is a bit to much, I have to add a reef.
The polytarp sail, made following the instructions on jim michalaks
website, worked very well indeed, proving the experts from the
sailing club wrong (who had predicted the tarp would stretch into a
shapeless bag in this sort of wind).
cant give you any numbers, but i was quite satisfied with progress
upwind. again, with one aboard she is quite tender, but with a
youngster as crew, who was leaning out a bit, it was a different
story altogether. did a bit of destructive testing as well: ripped off
the mast brace when beating into the breeze with my gung-ho
crew. he did a good yob of holding the mast up while we were flying
back ;-)
I had just mounted it with a bit of glue and copper woodscrews,
which broke. have to bolt it through the gunwales (which is
probably what the plans say anyway - I have to check)
also the rudder jumped ship twice - have to tie it down, plywood
floats!
I am surprised the boat tacks very, very slowly. you have to sail her
through the tack carefully.
I am unsure why - the boat is very light and has no momentum at
all, but the water was quite flat so I doubt this is the reason. Any
suggestions welcome.
I think i will add some sort of tiller extension to be able to get a
bigger rudder angle (don't really like them, but there you go ...)
still, I would call it a solid success.
hannes
who is horrified about this summer's sudden ending: snow on the
mountains all around again.
body of water around here.
wind was 3-4, with strong gusts, and very shifty. there was a
regatta and a handful of boats capsized. not really ideal for a first
outing, but i'd still call it a success.
The boat flies off the wind - went almost as fast as a 470 with
spinnaker, but I caught him when he capsized in a gust (which
almost got me, too. So i had to use the secret weapon: let go the
sheet to allow the sail to go forward and gybe it around in front of
the mast.) still a bit scary: with one aboard the boat is quite tender,
as you would expect from the narrow beam. in this sort of wind the
80 sqft sail is a bit to much, I have to add a reef.
The polytarp sail, made following the instructions on jim michalaks
website, worked very well indeed, proving the experts from the
sailing club wrong (who had predicted the tarp would stretch into a
shapeless bag in this sort of wind).
cant give you any numbers, but i was quite satisfied with progress
upwind. again, with one aboard she is quite tender, but with a
youngster as crew, who was leaning out a bit, it was a different
story altogether. did a bit of destructive testing as well: ripped off
the mast brace when beating into the breeze with my gung-ho
crew. he did a good yob of holding the mast up while we were flying
back ;-)
I had just mounted it with a bit of glue and copper woodscrews,
which broke. have to bolt it through the gunwales (which is
probably what the plans say anyway - I have to check)
also the rudder jumped ship twice - have to tie it down, plywood
floats!
I am surprised the boat tacks very, very slowly. you have to sail her
through the tack carefully.
I am unsure why - the boat is very light and has no momentum at
all, but the water was quite flat so I doubt this is the reason. Any
suggestions welcome.
I think i will add some sort of tiller extension to be able to get a
bigger rudder angle (don't really like them, but there you go ...)
still, I would call it a solid success.
hannes
who is horrified about this summer's sudden ending: snow on the
mountains all around again.
Strength and stiffness don't usually vary by the same proportion, but
in this case they do. I don't think shear strength is a critical
factor, as we aren't making an I beam and have plenty of excess
material to carry shear loads. Nevertheless, according to my
Machinery's Handbook, a round spar will be only 58.8% as stiff and
strong as a square one. As a matter of fact, this is pretty much an
exact science, since we have a long, skinny beam, except for any
nonuniformities in the wood. I used to be able to do all the math, and
it's pretty simple, but it would take me a while to reconstruct it
now, so I just look it up. Way back when I could do it on paper faster
than finding the book, and a little after that I could find it in
Timoshenko easily, but now I just use the crib sheets in Machinery's
Handbook. The strength of a square or round beam will be proportional
to the cube of the thickness (or dia), the stiffness to the fourth
power of the thickness. It's an easy mistake to equate the two. (For a
beam that doesn't vary in width, like a sheet of plywood, you are
looking at the square and the cube instead of the cube and the fourth
power.)
In any case, if I'm not mistaken, shear strength would be proportional
to the width of the cross section. It's not critical unless we are
doing a beam with a thin web, or a short beam.
Anyway, the loss in stiffness is even a little worse than you say.
I calculate that for equivalent stiffness a round beam needs to be 14%
thicker, or 1.71". For equivalent strength, 19% or 1.76". However, I'm
neglecting the rounded corners of the square beam.
-Lincoln Ross
should be working out, not calculating
in this case they do. I don't think shear strength is a critical
factor, as we aren't making an I beam and have plenty of excess
material to carry shear loads. Nevertheless, according to my
Machinery's Handbook, a round spar will be only 58.8% as stiff and
strong as a square one. As a matter of fact, this is pretty much an
exact science, since we have a long, skinny beam, except for any
nonuniformities in the wood. I used to be able to do all the math, and
it's pretty simple, but it would take me a while to reconstruct it
now, so I just look it up. Way back when I could do it on paper faster
than finding the book, and a little after that I could find it in
Timoshenko easily, but now I just use the crib sheets in Machinery's
Handbook. The strength of a square or round beam will be proportional
to the cube of the thickness (or dia), the stiffness to the fourth
power of the thickness. It's an easy mistake to equate the two. (For a
beam that doesn't vary in width, like a sheet of plywood, you are
looking at the square and the cube instead of the cube and the fourth
power.)
In any case, if I'm not mistaken, shear strength would be proportional
to the width of the cross section. It's not critical unless we are
doing a beam with a thin web, or a short beam.
Anyway, the loss in stiffness is even a little worse than you say.
I calculate that for equivalent stiffness a round beam needs to be 14%
thicker, or 1.71". For equivalent strength, 19% or 1.76". However, I'm
neglecting the rounded corners of the square beam.
-Lincoln Ross
should be working out, not calculating
--- In bolger@y..., phillip_lea@y... wrote:
> A factor in the excessive flexibility is that
> the custom spar has only 2/3 of the strength
> of the spar as designed because the shape was
> changed to round without increasing dimensions,
> and in contrast was actually reduced. Sheer
> strength is proportional to the cross-sectional area.
>
> Cross-sectional Area:
> As designed 1.5" squared = 2.24 sq.in. (1443 sq.mm)
> (with 1/8" radius corners)
>
> Versus custom 35 mm round = 1.49 sq.in. (962 sq.mm)
>
> 2.24/1.49 = 67%
>
> When one chooses to substitute a round section for a
> square section, one must increase the square
> dimension to arrive at the diameter to provide
> the same sheer strength. (For the numerically
> inclined, this worked out to sq.rt. of 4/pi).
>
> The spar needed to be at least 1.69"
> (~1 11/16) in diameter. I believe then that
> excessive flexibility would not be an issue.
>
> Plese don't infer that I think that this is an
> exact science -- this is just for comparison
> sake. But in my humble opinion, a 1/3
> reduction in strength is a significant factor.
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> > zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
> > applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground
> > and made
> > creaking noises.
> > conclusion: it is way too flexible!
> > it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
> > on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
> [snip]
> > hannes
A factor in the excessive flexibility is that
the custom spar has only 2/3 of the strength
of the spar as designed because the shape was
changed to round without increasing dimensions,
and in contrast was actually reduced. Sheer
strength is proportional to the cross-sectional area.
Cross-sectional Area:
As designed 1.5" squared = 2.24 sq.in. (1443 sq.mm)
(with 1/8" radius corners)
Versus custom 35 mm round = 1.49 sq.in. (962 sq.mm)
2.24/1.49 = 67%
When one chooses to substitute a round section for a
square section, one must increase the square
dimension to arrive at the diameter to provide
the same sheer strength. (For the numerically
inclined, this worked out to sq.rt. of 4/pi).
The spar needed to be at least 1.69"
(~1 11/16) in diameter. I believe then that
excessive flexibility would not be an issue.
Plese don't infer that I think that this is an
exact science -- this is just for comparison
sake. But in my humble opinion, a 1/3
reduction in strength is a significant factor.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
the custom spar has only 2/3 of the strength
of the spar as designed because the shape was
changed to round without increasing dimensions,
and in contrast was actually reduced. Sheer
strength is proportional to the cross-sectional area.
Cross-sectional Area:
As designed 1.5" squared = 2.24 sq.in. (1443 sq.mm)
(with 1/8" radius corners)
Versus custom 35 mm round = 1.49 sq.in. (962 sq.mm)
2.24/1.49 = 67%
When one chooses to substitute a round section for a
square section, one must increase the square
dimension to arrive at the diameter to provide
the same sheer strength. (For the numerically
inclined, this worked out to sq.rt. of 4/pi).
The spar needed to be at least 1.69"
(~1 11/16) in diameter. I believe then that
excessive flexibility would not be an issue.
Plese don't infer that I think that this is an
exact science -- this is just for comparison
sake. But in my humble opinion, a 1/3
reduction in strength is a significant factor.
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
> applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground
> and made
> creaking noises.
> conclusion: it is way too flexible!
> it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
> on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
[snip]
> hannes
On 20 Aug 2001, at 8:35,StepHydro@...wrote:
a plug.
thanks
hannes
>sounds reasonable. I'll do that, or lengthen the windsurfer mast with
> if you have made your yard undersize by a substantial fraction, and 3mm is
> substantial in a 38mm design, then nothing you can reasonably do is going to
> fix it.
>
> Best advice? A new yard is easy and cheap. Do not continue putting money and
> labor into a lost cause. Make a new one to spec. and save the old one for a
> future project.
>
a plug.
thanks
hannes
On 19 Aug 2001, at 22:09,PseudoDion3@...wrote:
this is interesting. how long is your yard? did you taper it?
how much sail area?
if you didnt check how flexible it is, how did you find out how to cut
the sail? (or what to tell the sailmaker?)
hannes
> Hannes,Dennis,
> I've not much experience with Lateen rigs, and I have not tested
> mine as Michalak suggests. My Yard (for Bolger/Carnell Featherwind)is
> 1 1/2" square and flexible. It does not seem to be a problem under
> sail.
this is interesting. how long is your yard? did you taper it?
how much sail area?
if you didnt check how flexible it is, how did you find out how to cut
the sail? (or what to tell the sailmaker?)
hannes
As I remember it, there is a reinforcing strip on the back side of
the Zephyr yard for part of its length. (I am actually thinking of
Storm Petrel, but I think its the same.) Did you add something
similar to yours?
Matthew Long
the Zephyr yard for part of its length. (I am actually thinking of
Storm Petrel, but I think its the same.) Did you add something
similar to yours?
Matthew Long
Hannes,
if you have made your yard undersize by a substantial fraction, and 3mm is
substantial in a 38mm design, then nothing you can reasonably do is going to
fix it.
Best advice? A new yard is easy and cheap. Do not continue putting money and
labor into a lost cause. Make a new one to spec. and save the old one for a
future project.
Cheers/Carron
if you have made your yard undersize by a substantial fraction, and 3mm is
substantial in a 38mm design, then nothing you can reasonably do is going to
fix it.
Best advice? A new yard is easy and cheap. Do not continue putting money and
labor into a lost cause. Make a new one to spec. and save the old one for a
future project.
Cheers/Carron
Wrapping with uni tape defeats the whole purpose of uni glass. It has
to be in direction of load, so you'd run it along the spars. If you
wanted to wrap glass tape over it, that might protect it, tho it would
make it heavier.
to be in direction of load, so you'd run it along the spars. If you
wanted to wrap glass tape over it, that might protect it, tho it would
make it heavier.
--- In bolger@y..., PseudoDion3@a... wrote:
> Hannes,
> I've not much experience with Lateen rigs, and I have not
tested
> mine as Michalak suggests. My Yard (for Bolger/Carnell
Featherwind)is
> 1 1/2" square and flexible. It does not seem to be a problem under
> sail. Before trying to rectify something that may not be a problem,
> try it under sail first and see how it works. Based on your
> experience, you can then either wrap the unidirectional tape around
> it to stiffen it to your satisfaction, or make a square spar as per
> plans.
> I can't wait to hear how your Zephyr sails.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dennis Marshall, Grand Rapids, MI
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> > i have tested the yard i have built for my zephyr as suggested by
> jim michalak
> >
> > ("Support the mast on sawhorses where the sail's head and tack
will
> be.
> > Suspend a weight midway between those two points. The weight is
> equal in
> > pounds to half the sail area in square feet.")
> >
> > zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
> > applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground
> and made
> > creaking noises.
> >
> > conclusion: it is way to flexible!
> >
> > it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
> > on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
> > my mistake: i started building from the study plans while waiting
> for the full
> > size copies to arrive.
> > however, i wrapped it in one layer of glass cloth to compensate
for
> the size
> > difference (which i thought was not too big). unpleasant job!! and
> futile, it
> > seems!
> >
> > i feel that a lateen yard can (and should?) be more flexible than
a
> mast - but
> > how much flex is acceptable? desireable?
> > Who has experience with lateen rigs?
> >
> > I also have an old glass windsurfer mast which is almost long
> enough, but it
> > appears *very* stiff compared to my yard.
> > can i use it?
> > or should i go for the floppy one? or thake the floppy one and
> strenghten it?
> >
> > help!! I want to go sailing before the summer is over!!
> >
> > hannes
Hannes,
I've not much experience with Lateen rigs, and I have not tested
mine as Michalak suggests. My Yard (for Bolger/Carnell Featherwind)is
1 1/2" square and flexible. It does not seem to be a problem under
sail. Before trying to rectify something that may not be a problem,
try it under sail first and see how it works. Based on your
experience, you can then either wrap the unidirectional tape around
it to stiffen it to your satisfaction, or make a square spar as per
plans.
I can't wait to hear how your Zephyr sails.
Regards,
Dennis Marshall, Grand Rapids, MI
I've not much experience with Lateen rigs, and I have not tested
mine as Michalak suggests. My Yard (for Bolger/Carnell Featherwind)is
1 1/2" square and flexible. It does not seem to be a problem under
sail. Before trying to rectify something that may not be a problem,
try it under sail first and see how it works. Based on your
experience, you can then either wrap the unidirectional tape around
it to stiffen it to your satisfaction, or make a square spar as per
plans.
I can't wait to hear how your Zephyr sails.
Regards,
Dennis Marshall, Grand Rapids, MI
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> i have tested the yard i have built for my zephyr as suggested by
jim michalak
>
> ("Support the mast on sawhorses where the sail's head and tack will
be.
> Suspend a weight midway between those two points. The weight is
equal in
> pounds to half the sail area in square feet.")
>
> zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
> applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground
and made
> creaking noises.
>
> conclusion: it is way to flexible!
>
> it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
> on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
> my mistake: i started building from the study plans while waiting
for the full
> size copies to arrive.
> however, i wrapped it in one layer of glass cloth to compensate for
the size
> difference (which i thought was not too big). unpleasant job!! and
futile, it
> seems!
>
> i feel that a lateen yard can (and should?) be more flexible than a
mast - but
> how much flex is acceptable? desireable?
> Who has experience with lateen rigs?
>
> I also have an old glass windsurfer mast which is almost long
enough, but it
> appears *very* stiff compared to my yard.
> can i use it?
> or should i go for the floppy one? or thake the floppy one and
strenghten it?
>
> help!! I want to go sailing before the summer is over!!
>
> hannes
If you're sure it's too floppy, you might try unidirectional glass
tape. Fibers in glass cloth aren't very straight and therefore are not
very stiff. You might try www.aircraftspruce.com (or something like
that.) you will need to have a little something to protect the tape at
wear points, as it will buckle if it gets notched.
tape. Fibers in glass cloth aren't very straight and therefore are not
very stiff. You might try www.aircraftspruce.com (or something like
that.) you will need to have a little something to protect the tape at
wear points, as it will buckle if it gets notched.
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
> i have tested the yard i have built for my zephyr as suggested by
jim michalak
>
> ("Support the mast on sawhorses where the sail's head and tack will
be.
> Suspend a weight midway between those two points. The weight is
equal in
> pounds to half the sail area in square feet.")
>
> zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
> applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground and
made
> creaking noises.
>
> conclusion: it is way to flexible!
>
> it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
> on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
> my mistake: i started building from the study plans while waiting
for the full
> size copies to arrive.
> however, i wrapped it in one layer of glass cloth to compensate for
the size
> difference (which i thought was not too big). unpleasant job!! and
futile, it
> seems!
>
> i feel that a lateen yard can (and should?) be more flexible than a
mast - but
> how much flex is acceptable? desireable?
> Who has experience with lateen rigs?
>
> I also have an old glass windsurfer mast which is almost long
enough, but it
> appears *very* stiff compared to my yard.
> can i use it?
> or should i go for the floppy one? or thake the floppy one and
strenghten it?
>
> help!! I want to go sailing before the summer is over!!
>
> hannes
hello everybody,
in my garden sits the zephyr I have been building over the last 4
weekends, painted and almost ready for the water.
Despite using polyester resin, galvanized nails and acrylic house
paint she has cost me about $700, almost half of which is in the
plywood. (finnish birch, nothing else available round here)
modifications:
michalak style rudder and leeboard, longer end compartments.
no center frame but triple gunwales (thanks to dave carnell). the
hull is very stiff since the end decks are on.
i used a hand plane, electric drill, skilsaw and, most of all, my
angle grinder - modified as suggested here on the list about a
month ago. forgot by whom, but thank you! what an excellent tool.
do wear safety goggles, though!!!
what remains to be done is to streamline board and rudder. i did
one side of the board with hand plane and angle grinder. hell of a
job, and the result leaves a lot do be desired. while the outer layers
of the ply are vey nice, the inner ones are full of knots that stop the
hand plane. the angle grinder (while sanding straight through
nailheads) leaves a rather undulating surface.
I guess I am off to the hire shop tomorrow after work to get a nice
belt sander.
hooray!
hannes
p.s. hope the weather holds up. I am building in the open. a pain!
in my garden sits the zephyr I have been building over the last 4
weekends, painted and almost ready for the water.
Despite using polyester resin, galvanized nails and acrylic house
paint she has cost me about $700, almost half of which is in the
plywood. (finnish birch, nothing else available round here)
modifications:
michalak style rudder and leeboard, longer end compartments.
no center frame but triple gunwales (thanks to dave carnell). the
hull is very stiff since the end decks are on.
i used a hand plane, electric drill, skilsaw and, most of all, my
angle grinder - modified as suggested here on the list about a
month ago. forgot by whom, but thank you! what an excellent tool.
do wear safety goggles, though!!!
what remains to be done is to streamline board and rudder. i did
one side of the board with hand plane and angle grinder. hell of a
job, and the result leaves a lot do be desired. while the outer layers
of the ply are vey nice, the inner ones are full of knots that stop the
hand plane. the angle grinder (while sanding straight through
nailheads) leaves a rather undulating surface.
I guess I am off to the hire shop tomorrow after work to get a nice
belt sander.
hooray!
hannes
p.s. hope the weather holds up. I am building in the open. a pain!
i have tested the yard i have built for my zephyr as suggested by jim michalak
("Support the mast on sawhorses where the sail's head and tack will be.
Suspend a weight midway between those two points. The weight is equal in
pounds to half the sail area in square feet.")
zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground and made
creaking noises.
conclusion: it is way to flexible!
it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
my mistake: i started building from the study plans while waiting for the full
size copies to arrive.
however, i wrapped it in one layer of glass cloth to compensate for the size
difference (which i thought was not too big). unpleasant job!! and futile, it
seems!
i feel that a lateen yard can (and should?) be more flexible than a mast - but
how much flex is acceptable? desireable?
Who has experience with lateen rigs?
I also have an old glass windsurfer mast which is almost long enough, but it
appears *very* stiff compared to my yard.
can i use it?
or should i go for the floppy one? or thake the floppy one and strenghten it?
help!! I want to go sailing before the summer is over!!
hannes
("Support the mast on sawhorses where the sail's head and tack will be.
Suspend a weight midway between those two points. The weight is equal in
pounds to half the sail area in square feet.")
zephyrs sail area is about 80 sqft, makes 40 pounds. however, when
applying only half that load, the yard bent almost to the ground and made
creaking noises.
conclusion: it is way to flexible!
it is round in diameter, 35 mm.
on the plans it is sqare, 1 1/2'' diam (which is 1/8 more)
my mistake: i started building from the study plans while waiting for the full
size copies to arrive.
however, i wrapped it in one layer of glass cloth to compensate for the size
difference (which i thought was not too big). unpleasant job!! and futile, it
seems!
i feel that a lateen yard can (and should?) be more flexible than a mast - but
how much flex is acceptable? desireable?
Who has experience with lateen rigs?
I also have an old glass windsurfer mast which is almost long enough, but it
appears *very* stiff compared to my yard.
can i use it?
or should i go for the floppy one? or thake the floppy one and strenghten it?
help!! I want to go sailing before the summer is over!!
hannes
--- In bolger@y..., "Hannes" <h.kuehtreiber@t...> wrote:
are your replying to? (fyi: Did you know you can hit 'reply' for
replies and this keeps the threads organized?)
Single sculling oars used over the transom are really foil oars, they
propel the boat using lift instead of drag.
> Jim,Hannes, This is a new posting, but sounds like a reply. Which post
> you really know how to make ones mouth water!
> Could you tell us about your *Foil Oar*?
> Sounds most interesting!
>
> Hannes
are your replying to? (fyi: Did you know you can hit 'reply' for
replies and this keeps the threads organized?)
Single sculling oars used over the transom are really foil oars, they
propel the boat using lift instead of drag.
Jim,
you really know how to make ones mouth water!
Could you tell us about your *Foil Oar*?
Sounds most interesting!
Hannes
you really know how to make ones mouth water!
Could you tell us about your *Foil Oar*?
Sounds most interesting!
Hannes
Jim,
I think 8 kn is very good for 6hp!
I have been thinking for some time that a cat with slender, box
section hulls would be quick to build and yet have very good
hydrodynamics.
how wide are the hulls of your boat? (what is her name, by the
way?)
how high over the water is your platform - and how far back from
the bows?
from your description I gather that the concept works quite well -
congratulations!
hannes
I think 8 kn is very good for 6hp!
I have been thinking for some time that a cat with slender, box
section hulls would be quick to build and yet have very good
hydrodynamics.
how wide are the hulls of your boat? (what is her name, by the
way?)
how high over the water is your platform - and how far back from
the bows?
from your description I gather that the concept works quite well -
congratulations!
hannes
Hannes wrote:
No, as far as I know it wasn't the Fishcat.
My boat was designed by PCB to fill a need that I had for a means to test a marine invention I was
working on. She is basically a pair of very light hulls with moderate rocker in their flat bottoms
joined by a pair of 10" square box beams. There is a platform between the hulls with lift-out panels
to provide access for my Foil Oar.
She has a motor mount aft with a Yamaha 6 horse outboard. A folding bench seat, and a market umbrella
instead of a more formal bimini style canopy. Just after first launching for a season, with the
bottom very clean, the gps shows 8.0 to 8.1 kts when hooked right up, but I find that holding her at
seven gives good results.
She has a fold down bench seat and is equipped with a side mounted small yacht style steering wheel
(rescued from a local antique shop) mounted beside the bench seat and which works through cables and
pulleys back to the motor. She has the standard Yamaha remote gearshift and throttle controls.
Electricity for running lights is generated by a pair of solar panels mounted on the hulls forward.
With respect to and for choppy water; she does reasonably well in a light chop. The straight up and
down sides of the hulls have a tendency to bounce slop right up and over the box beams joining the
hulls. That was fixed by fitting a canvas between the hulls forward. She can be overpowered, however,
by a heavy chop, and, anyway, I'll probably quit before the boat will. She is, after all, made of
1/4" luan. In heavy, but not breaking seas, (ocean swells) she rides like a duck, not rolling, just
quite comfortably putting along.
Do I like the boat? Yup, a lot.
Thanks for asking,
Jim
> Jim,Hi Hannes,
> is your boat the one that was called "Fishcat" in a CSD catalog
> some time ago?
> how many horses do you need to do your 7 knots?
> what about choppy water?
> do you like the boat? - tell us about it!
No, as far as I know it wasn't the Fishcat.
My boat was designed by PCB to fill a need that I had for a means to test a marine invention I was
working on. She is basically a pair of very light hulls with moderate rocker in their flat bottoms
joined by a pair of 10" square box beams. There is a platform between the hulls with lift-out panels
to provide access for my Foil Oar.
She has a motor mount aft with a Yamaha 6 horse outboard. A folding bench seat, and a market umbrella
instead of a more formal bimini style canopy. Just after first launching for a season, with the
bottom very clean, the gps shows 8.0 to 8.1 kts when hooked right up, but I find that holding her at
seven gives good results.
She has a fold down bench seat and is equipped with a side mounted small yacht style steering wheel
(rescued from a local antique shop) mounted beside the bench seat and which works through cables and
pulleys back to the motor. She has the standard Yamaha remote gearshift and throttle controls.
Electricity for running lights is generated by a pair of solar panels mounted on the hulls forward.
With respect to and for choppy water; she does reasonably well in a light chop. The straight up and
down sides of the hulls have a tendency to bounce slop right up and over the box beams joining the
hulls. That was fixed by fitting a canvas between the hulls forward. She can be overpowered, however,
by a heavy chop, and, anyway, I'll probably quit before the boat will. She is, after all, made of
1/4" luan. In heavy, but not breaking seas, (ocean swells) she rides like a duck, not rolling, just
quite comfortably putting along.
Do I like the boat? Yup, a lot.
Thanks for asking,
Jim
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Dan,
Thanks for the info. I bought the software today and am about to install it. It looks good.
Thanks,
Jim
Dan Bollinger wrote:
Thanks for the info. I bought the software today and am about to install it. It looks good.
Thanks,
Jim
Dan Bollinger wrote:
> Jim, Sounds like a fun trip. Garmin's software, MapSource, can do
> this for you. You can select your waypoints from the map and then
> download them into your GPS. I have no idea if your Garmin 45 can
> handle this, but at the very worst you can manually program the
> coordinates from the software. Go to www.garmin.com to buy MapSource
> and check on compatibility.
>
> For instance, I just opened MapSource, did a search for North Hero,
> VT, zoomed in and saved the waypoint. The coordinates for the center
> of North Hero town is: N44 49.124 W73 17.552 The coordinates for
> the center of the Hwy. US 2 bridge(or causeway)on the way south is
> N44 46.066 W73 17.381.
>
> These maps aren't as good as the marine versions, but should be just
> fine for your use. To give you an idea, I saved the location of an
> intersection I needed to turn at while on a trip. I downloaded it
> from MapSource into my Garmin eTrex. I ended up within 20 yards of
> the intersection!
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
John, I just noticed your "Mother of All Mar...." mentioned in Chesapeake Bay Magazine. Clyde
jhkohnen@...wrote:
jhkohnen@...wrote:
> Jim-
>
> Here's a page where you can get a free list of waypoints to all the aids to
> navigation in the USCG light list:
>
>http://www.jmsci.com/waypoints/
>
> That may help you some. I use a program that lets one use a scan of any map
> to pick up waypoints, as long as you have at least two known points on the
> map to properly scale it, very handy!:
>
>http://www.gpsu.co.uk/
>
> On Sun, 22 Jul 2001 22:19:05 -0400, Jim wrote:
> > ...
> > Does anyone
> > in the group know of a web page that displays marine charts and will
> > allow the user to take off a list of waypoints? Dragging a cursor with a
> > mouse and clicking is a whole lot faster and probably a whole lot more
> > accurate than parallel rules and dividers.
> > ...
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you can be
> pretty sure they're going to have some pretty annoying virtues.
> <Elizabeth Taylor>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Jim,
is your boat the one that was called "Fishcat" in a CSD catalog
some time ago?
how many horses do you need to do your 7 knots?
what about choppy water?
do you like the boat? - tell us about it!
good luck on your trip!
hannes
is your boat the one that was called "Fishcat" in a CSD catalog
some time ago?
how many horses do you need to do your 7 knots?
what about choppy water?
do you like the boat? - tell us about it!
good luck on your trip!
hannes
Jim-
Here's a page where you can get a free list of waypoints to all the aids to
navigation in the USCG light list:
http://www.jmsci.com/waypoints/
That may help you some. I use a program that lets one use a scan of any map
to pick up waypoints, as long as you have at least two known points on the
map to properly scale it, very handy!:
http://www.gpsu.co.uk/
Here's a page where you can get a free list of waypoints to all the aids to
navigation in the USCG light list:
http://www.jmsci.com/waypoints/
That may help you some. I use a program that lets one use a scan of any map
to pick up waypoints, as long as you have at least two known points on the
map to properly scale it, very handy!:
http://www.gpsu.co.uk/
On Sun, 22 Jul 2001 22:19:05 -0400, Jim wrote:
> ...
> Does anyone
> in the group know of a web page that displays marine charts and will
> allow the user to take off a list of waypoints? Dragging a cursor with a
> mouse and clicking is a whole lot faster and probably a whole lot more
> accurate than parallel rules and dividers.
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
The problem with people who have no vices is that generally you can be
pretty sure they're going to have some pretty annoying virtues.
<Elizabeth Taylor>
Jim, Sounds like a fun trip. Garmin's software, MapSource, can do
this for you. You can select your waypoints from the map and then
download them into your GPS. I have no idea if your Garmin 45 can
handle this, but at the very worst you can manually program the
coordinates from the software. Go to www.garmin.com to buy MapSource
and check on compatibility.
For instance, I just opened MapSource, did a search for North Hero,
VT, zoomed in and saved the waypoint. The coordinates for the center
of North Hero town is: N44 49.124 W73 17.552 The coordinates for
the center of the Hwy. US 2 bridge(or causeway)on the way south is
N44 46.066 W73 17.381.
These maps aren't as good as the marine versions, but should be just
fine for your use. To give you an idea, I saved the location of an
intersection I needed to turn at while on a trip. I downloaded it
from MapSource into my Garmin eTrex. I ended up within 20 yards of
the intersection!
this for you. You can select your waypoints from the map and then
download them into your GPS. I have no idea if your Garmin 45 can
handle this, but at the very worst you can manually program the
coordinates from the software. Go to www.garmin.com to buy MapSource
and check on compatibility.
For instance, I just opened MapSource, did a search for North Hero,
VT, zoomed in and saved the waypoint. The coordinates for the center
of North Hero town is: N44 49.124 W73 17.552 The coordinates for
the center of the Hwy. US 2 bridge(or causeway)on the way south is
N44 46.066 W73 17.381.
These maps aren't as good as the marine versions, but should be just
fine for your use. To give you an idea, I saved the location of an
intersection I needed to turn at while on a trip. I downloaded it
from MapSource into my Garmin eTrex. I ended up within 20 yards of
the intersection!
Jim,
Good to read that yet another Bolgerado will be attending!!!Do not
let the absence of waypoints deter you from arriving by water.
If your cruising speed of 7 knots was not twice mine,I'd be
interested in meeting up with you in the Hero Islands and heading down
in company.I expect to be in the Heros sometime Wedensday or Thursday
as I plan to spend a night there.
This is a tough date to fix with any accuracy since one never
knows what sort of delays may be encountered at the U.S. border
crossing..........
See you there!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Micro"LESTAT"
Good to read that yet another Bolgerado will be attending!!!Do not
let the absence of waypoints deter you from arriving by water.
If your cruising speed of 7 knots was not twice mine,I'd be
interested in meeting up with you in the Hero Islands and heading down
in company.I expect to be in the Heros sometime Wedensday or Thursday
as I plan to spend a night there.
This is a tough date to fix with any accuracy since one never
knows what sort of delays may be encountered at the U.S. border
crossing..........
See you there!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Micro"LESTAT"
--- In bolger@y..., Jim Pope <jpope@m...> wrote:
> At the risk of being a little "Off topic" ......
> I plan to attend the Champlain meeting with my 15' Bolger outboard
> catamaran. One of the alternatives available is to trailer the boat
to
> a friends house way up on North Hero Island and motor the 50 or so
miles
> down lake to the meeting (at about 7 kts). I've a small motor.
> The boat has a Garmin 45 handheld GPS and I'm going to lay out a
chart
> course and pick out the appropriate waypoints for the trip. Does
anyone
> in the group know of a web page that displays marine charts and
will
> allow the user to take off a list of waypoints? Dragging a cursor
with a
> mouse and clicking is a whole lot faster and probably a whole lot
more
> accurate than parallel rules and dividers. (I once plotted a
waypoint
> directly on the Reef of Norman's Woe off Gloucester, Mass. Grand
> literature but potentially a little too tough on a boat made of 1/4"
> luan.)
> Appreciate any input.
> Jim
At the risk of being a little "Off topic" ......
I plan to attend the Champlain meeting with my 15' Bolger outboard
catamaran. One of the alternatives available is to trailer the boat to
a friends house way up on North Hero Island and motor the 50 or so miles
down lake to the meeting (at about 7 kts). I've a small motor.
The boat has a Garmin 45 handheld GPS and I'm going to lay out a chart
course and pick out the appropriate waypoints for the trip. Does anyone
in the group know of a web page that displays marine charts and will
allow the user to take off a list of waypoints? Dragging a cursor with a
mouse and clicking is a whole lot faster and probably a whole lot more
accurate than parallel rules and dividers. (I once plotted a waypoint
directly on the Reef of Norman's Woe off Gloucester, Mass. Grand
literature but potentially a little too tough on a boat made of 1/4"
luan.)
Appreciate any input.
Jim
I plan to attend the Champlain meeting with my 15' Bolger outboard
catamaran. One of the alternatives available is to trailer the boat to
a friends house way up on North Hero Island and motor the 50 or so miles
down lake to the meeting (at about 7 kts). I've a small motor.
The boat has a Garmin 45 handheld GPS and I'm going to lay out a chart
course and pick out the appropriate waypoints for the trip. Does anyone
in the group know of a web page that displays marine charts and will
allow the user to take off a list of waypoints? Dragging a cursor with a
mouse and clicking is a whole lot faster and probably a whole lot more
accurate than parallel rules and dividers. (I once plotted a waypoint
directly on the Reef of Norman's Woe off Gloucester, Mass. Grand
literature but potentially a little too tough on a boat made of 1/4"
luan.)
Appreciate any input.
Jim