Re: Slowest Micro Ever
-
Group,
Thanks for the responses, I answered my own question, and went
and bought some nice Oregon (D.Fir) this morning for bulkhead A. I'm
pretty sure quality older radiata, well epoxied, would be O.K. for
framing and a few other jobs, (maybe not chine logs & gunwales), but
I knew I would be happier with the heavier timber. For those
interested, I'm going for the half inch bottom 3/8 everywhere else.
Regards,
Col
-- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:
Group,
Thanks for the responses, I answered my own question, and went
and bought some nice Oregon (D.Fir) this morning for bulkhead A. I'm
pretty sure quality older radiata, well epoxied, would be O.K. for
framing and a few other jobs, (maybe not chine logs & gunwales), but
I knew I would be happier with the heavier timber. For those
interested, I'm going for the half inch bottom 3/8 everywhere else.
Regards,
Col
-- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:
> NZ grown radiata pine is fine and has been used for decades inboats
> here........IF sheathed and well coated with epoxy. I am using someMicro.
> on my Micro just now. The better grades are reasonably strong and
> easy to work. If you are worried about strength, use heavier glass.
> You can also get tanalith treated timber and ply which will never
> rot. NZ radiata is exported to Australia.
> DonB
>
> --- In bolger@y..., colncath@b... wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my
> Itimber
> > have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation
> > grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) andwas
> > wondering what the group thought about using some of it for thehoop
> > framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir,
> but
> > what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
> > where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I
> know
> > it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used
> > pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
> > heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Col Mooney
NZ grown radiata pine is fine and has been used for decades in boats
here........IF sheathed and well coated with epoxy. I am using some
on my Micro just now. The better grades are reasonably strong and
easy to work. If you are worried about strength, use heavier glass.
You can also get tanalith treated timber and ply which will never
rot. NZ radiata is exported to Australia.
DonB
here........IF sheathed and well coated with epoxy. I am using some
on my Micro just now. The better grades are reasonably strong and
easy to work. If you are worried about strength, use heavier glass.
You can also get tanalith treated timber and ply which will never
rot. NZ radiata is exported to Australia.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., colncath@b... wrote:
>
>
> I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my Micro.
I
> have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timber
> grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
> wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
> framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir,
but
> what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
> where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I
know
> it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used hoop
> pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
> heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
>
> Regards
>
> Col Mooney
While New Zealand does grow Douglas fir, we mostly grow Radiata pine because
it has been discovered that as well as growing to maturity in 30 years here,
you can use it for just about anything if you dose it with enough poisonous
chemicals. If you are going to use it in a boat; A: Make it bigger to allow
for the softness and B: Make sure it's been treated with so many chemicals
that you feel like fainting when you sand it.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
----------
it has been discovered that as well as growing to maturity in 30 years here,
you can use it for just about anything if you dose it with enough poisonous
chemicals. If you are going to use it in a boat; A: Make it bigger to allow
for the softness and B: Make sure it's been treated with so many chemicals
that you feel like fainting when you sand it.
Stuart Crawford
New Zealand
----------
>From:pateson@...
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [bolger] Re: radiata pine
>Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2001 4:43 AM
>
> Did a quick web serch on Radiata pine.
> Foundhttp://www.toolcenter.com/wood/radiatapine.html
> Found:
> Natural Durability
> Heartwood is reported to have very little natural resistance to
> attack by decay fungi and other wood destroying organisms, and is
> prone to damage by insects.
> Doesn't sound good.
> I would definately check with some of the suppliers befor I used
> it.
> I learned the hard way. I built one of my first boats long ago
> with "Free" lumber for the frames and chines.
> It was alder, and lasted about two years.
> Good luck.
>
> Pat Patteson
> Molalla, Oregon USA
> (Where we've wasted more Douglas Fir than New Zealand
> will ever grow.)
>
>
> --- In bolger@e..., colncath@b... wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my Micro.
> I
>> have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timber
>> grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
>> wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
>> framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir,
> but
>> what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
>> where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I
> know
>> it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used hoop
>> pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
>> heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Col Mooney
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Did a quick web serch on Radiata pine.
Foundhttp://www.toolcenter.com/wood/radiatapine.html
Found:
Natural Durability
Heartwood is reported to have very little natural resistance to
attack by decay fungi and other wood destroying organisms, and is
prone to damage by insects.
Doesn't sound good.
I would definately check with some of the suppliers befor I used
it.
I learned the hard way. I built one of my first boats long ago
with "Free" lumber for the frames and chines.
It was alder, and lasted about two years.
Good luck.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon USA
(Where we've wasted more Douglas Fir than New Zealand
will ever grow.)
Foundhttp://www.toolcenter.com/wood/radiatapine.html
Found:
Natural Durability
Heartwood is reported to have very little natural resistance to
attack by decay fungi and other wood destroying organisms, and is
prone to damage by insects.
Doesn't sound good.
I would definately check with some of the suppliers befor I used
it.
I learned the hard way. I built one of my first boats long ago
with "Free" lumber for the frames and chines.
It was alder, and lasted about two years.
Good luck.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon USA
(Where we've wasted more Douglas Fir than New Zealand
will ever grow.)
--- In bolger@e..., colncath@b... wrote:
>
>
> I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my Micro.
I
> have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timber
> grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
> wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
> framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir,
but
> what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
> where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I
know
> it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used hoop
> pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
> heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
>
> Regards
>
> Col Mooney
--- In bolger@y..., colncath@b... wrote:
d a reoiling job on some play ground equipment recently and the the
one plank of radiata soaked up 4 coats of oil compared to the tassie
oak (stringy bark really). radita soaks up water bably , probably
due to having hardly any natural oils.
I suspect that if you had a plank of old growth , from its original
part of the world you could build a boat and sailthe world. I think
that the speed of growing is the prime consideration in its use.
I've found that I can trust the stringy woods that split along the
grainwhen bashed from the side. In Kalgoorlie I'm lucky that as old
buildings are beig pulled down i can get good douglas fir and baltic
pine for little or nothing, In fact at the moment I' having trouble
keeping up with it all!
Don' t be scared to search for second hand logsor sticks, Ive even
offered to take somones rubbish to the tip when I saw all the wood
sticking out of the pile
Any help? in summary Australian platation grown Radiata no,no,no,no,
And no( this is my opinion only . If you are a manager of a Bunnings
super mega monster store feel free to dis agree.
Cheers , paul , kalgoorlie
>I
>
> I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my Micro.
> have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timberbut
> grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
> wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
> framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir,
> Colin , Be warned that plantation radiata is barely suitable tobuild a dunny let alone a boat. It rot very easy, very quickly. I di
d a reoiling job on some play ground equipment recently and the the
one plank of radiata soaked up 4 coats of oil compared to the tassie
oak (stringy bark really). radita soaks up water bably , probably
due to having hardly any natural oils.
I suspect that if you had a plank of old growth , from its original
part of the world you could build a boat and sailthe world. I think
that the speed of growing is the prime consideration in its use.
I've found that I can trust the stringy woods that split along the
grainwhen bashed from the side. In Kalgoorlie I'm lucky that as old
buildings are beig pulled down i can get good douglas fir and baltic
pine for little or nothing, In fact at the moment I' having trouble
keeping up with it all!
Don' t be scared to search for second hand logsor sticks, Ive even
offered to take somones rubbish to the tip when I saw all the wood
sticking out of the pile
Any help? in summary Australian platation grown Radiata no,no,no,no,
And no( this is my opinion only . If you are a manager of a Bunnings
super mega monster store feel free to dis agree.
Cheers , paul , kalgoorlie
I am part way through making the bulkheads/transoms for my Micro. I
have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timber
grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir, but
what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I know
it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used hoop
pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
Regards
Col Mooney
have lots of what we call radiata pine on hand, (plantation timber
grown in Australia - not sure what its called in the U.S.)) and was
wondering what the group thought about using some of it for the
framing. It is quite a soft timber, less dense than douglas fir, but
what I have is knot free. I think that beefing up the scantlings
where possible should get over any potential strength issues. I know
it will work, but I want the boat to be bullet proof. I used hoop
pine, another soft Aussie timber for my last boat, but it was a
heavier built design than Micro. Any opinions?
Regards
Col Mooney