Re: Melting lead wheel weights
Only problem with cooking pan is someone trying to cook with it. I had
this happen with a housemate many years ago, and I had to smash the
frypan with a brick to keep it out of our systems. Don't even ask abou
t the Penta dip in the salad bowl...
I've poured lead for plumbing and for scuba weights on a commercial
stove under a powerful hood fan. Worked fine. Plumbing places used to
sell, and may still sell, containers to melt in and ladles that don't
look like cooking gear. Worst part was walking down the hall with the
lead to pour around pipe flange (sealed against the lead with oakum,
believe it or not).
this happen with a housemate many years ago, and I had to smash the
frypan with a brick to keep it out of our systems. Don't even ask abou
t the Penta dip in the salad bowl...
I've poured lead for plumbing and for scuba weights on a commercial
stove under a powerful hood fan. Worked fine. Plumbing places used to
sell, and may still sell, containers to melt in and ladles that don't
look like cooking gear. Worst part was walking down the hall with the
lead to pour around pipe flange (sealed against the lead with oakum,
believe it or not).
--- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> Best crucible would be a cooking pan. Aluminum is ok, but iron would
> be better. Coffee cans are pretty flimsy, but I've used them. Use a
> camp stove to heat it up.
>
> Remember to superheat. Heat the batch for about 45-60 seconds after
> the last piece of lead had melted.
>
> Skim the dross, kill the flame, and pour.
>
> Have something ready to pour the extra metal in.
>
> Metal is best for the backing, though you can get away with wood,
> drywall, concrete board, etc.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> > I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my
> local
> > garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of
> my
> > kick-up rudders?
> >
> > Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
> >
> > Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
> >
> > I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
> > etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
> >
> > Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the
> rudder?
> > I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything
> less
> > suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought
> to
> > cool fast. Is plywood OK?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice.
> >
> > All best,
> > Garth
Be careful about how hot you get it. As I understand it, just at
melting point the lead fumes are not very concentrated, but as you
get it hotter, the amount of fumes goes up alarmingly. You can get a
respirator rated for lead fumes at most welding supply places. Good
ventilation is essential.
That said, after reading up on how to do it, I got a little paranoid
and decided I'd rather not melt lead, and so used lead shot in epoxy
for my CB weight. The principle is the same, although the hole needs
to be a bit bigger. Back up the hole with something that won't stick
to epoxy, drive a few nails halfway into the edges, pour in the shot,
pour in the epoxy. No problem. Might not work with tire weights,
though.
melting point the lead fumes are not very concentrated, but as you
get it hotter, the amount of fumes goes up alarmingly. You can get a
respirator rated for lead fumes at most welding supply places. Good
ventilation is essential.
That said, after reading up on how to do it, I got a little paranoid
and decided I'd rather not melt lead, and so used lead shot in epoxy
for my CB weight. The principle is the same, although the hole needs
to be a bit bigger. Back up the hole with something that won't stick
to epoxy, drive a few nails halfway into the edges, pour in the shot,
pour in the epoxy. No problem. Might not work with tire weights,
though.
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights . .
> Any tips on melting them . . .
Best crucible would be a cooking pan. Aluminum is ok, but iron would
be better. Coffee cans are pretty flimsy, but I've used them. Use a
camp stove to heat it up.
Remember to superheat. Heat the batch for about 45-60 seconds after
the last piece of lead had melted.
Skim the dross, kill the flame, and pour.
Have something ready to pour the extra metal in.
Metal is best for the backing, though you can get away with wood,
drywall, concrete board, etc.
be better. Coffee cans are pretty flimsy, but I've used them. Use a
camp stove to heat it up.
Remember to superheat. Heat the batch for about 45-60 seconds after
the last piece of lead had melted.
Skim the dross, kill the flame, and pour.
Have something ready to pour the extra metal in.
Metal is best for the backing, though you can get away with wood,
drywall, concrete board, etc.
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my
local
> garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of
my
> kick-up rudders?
>
> Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
>
> Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
>
> I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
> etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
>
> Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the
rudder?
> I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything
less
> suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought
to
> cool fast. Is plywood OK?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
Melting lead is very safe as long as you do it in a ventilated area. I know
folks who have cast tons of lead bullets and they aren't any crazier than I
:-)
You can give the plywood a measure of protection by painting it with "water
glass" which is a silicon compound... I forget the tech. name... I believe
is the same stuff that you find in dessicant packages. Dissolve the stuff in
water to a brushable but thick consistency and paint it on. You can use
plywood to close the hole, but it helps to put a plate of aluminum or better
steel, on top of the plywood.
Cheers/Carron
folks who have cast tons of lead bullets and they aren't any crazier than I
:-)
You can give the plywood a measure of protection by painting it with "water
glass" which is a silicon compound... I forget the tech. name... I believe
is the same stuff that you find in dessicant packages. Dissolve the stuff in
water to a brushable but thick consistency and paint it on. You can use
plywood to close the hole, but it helps to put a plate of aluminum or better
steel, on top of the plywood.
Cheers/Carron
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from mylocal
> garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple ofmy
> kick-up rudders?rudder?
>
> Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
>
> Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
>
> I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
> etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
>
> Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the
> I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anythingless
> suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it oughtto
> cool fast. Is plywood OK?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
I think the safest thing to do is to just put some of the weights in
the hole as-is, and then pound them into place with a hammer. No
melting at all. Pour some thickened expoxy into the gaps. I have
not done this myself, but this is what I would try. Lead fumes are
downright dangerous...
Mike
the hole as-is, and then pound them into place with a hammer. No
melting at all. Pour some thickened expoxy into the gaps. I have
not done this myself, but this is what I would try. Lead fumes are
downright dangerous...
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my
local
> garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of
my
> kick-up rudders?
>
> Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
>
> Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
>
> I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
> etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
>
> Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the
rudder?
> I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything
less
> suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought
to
> cool fast. Is plywood OK?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
No need to clean -- impurities will either burn off (don't breath the fumes)
or float to the surface where you can skim them off.
I used a piece of scrap iron plate, my only preparation was to wire-brush
the rust flakes off. Plywood should work, we used to use wooden moulds for
making fishing weights in school. Clamp it firmly to your board, choose a
place to pour where spills won't matter and keep your feet clear. A piece
of plywood between the pour and your feet/legs will help keep off splashes.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:garth@...[mailto:garth@...]
Sent: July 27, 2001 9:18 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Melting lead wheel weights
I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my local
garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of my
kick-up rudders?
Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the rudder?
I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything less
suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought to
cool fast. Is plywood OK?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
or float to the surface where you can skim them off.
I used a piece of scrap iron plate, my only preparation was to wire-brush
the rust flakes off. Plywood should work, we used to use wooden moulds for
making fishing weights in school. Clamp it firmly to your board, choose a
place to pour where spills won't matter and keep your feet clear. A piece
of plywood between the pour and your feet/legs will help keep off splashes.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:garth@...[mailto:garth@...]
Sent: July 27, 2001 9:18 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Melting lead wheel weights
I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my local
garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of my
kick-up rudders?
Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the rudder?
I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything less
suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought to
cool fast. Is plywood OK?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Garth,
I like lead when something's needed to keep a pivoting centerboard
down, but like a downhaul better on a kick-up rudder. It's always
beneficial to keep weight out of the ends of any boat, of course, and
it may take more lead than you'd like to keep the rudder blade down
against a heavy stream of water. A centerboard seems to stay down
better because of the side force friction in the trunk, which is
farther from the axis of rotation. You don't want your rudder blade
pivoting up when you're on some screaming reach. Been there, done
that.
Johannes
I like lead when something's needed to keep a pivoting centerboard
down, but like a downhaul better on a kick-up rudder. It's always
beneficial to keep weight out of the ends of any boat, of course, and
it may take more lead than you'd like to keep the rudder blade down
against a heavy stream of water. A centerboard seems to stay down
better because of the side force friction in the trunk, which is
farther from the axis of rotation. You don't want your rudder blade
pivoting up when you're on some screaming reach. Been there, done
that.
Johannes
--- In bolger@y..., garth@b... wrote:
> I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my
local
> garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of
my
> kick-up rudders?
>
> Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
>
> Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
>
> I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
> etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
>
> Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the
rudder?
> I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything
less
> suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought
to
> cool fast. Is plywood OK?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
On Fri, 27 Jul 2001garth@...wrote:
you're pouring the hot lead into in the first place.
Also, the source of moisture is more likely to be the wood itself, so that
backing board and rudder are serious sources of danger, too.
> Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the rudder?Plywood is OK, although it will scorch. Keep in mind that it's plywood
> I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything less
> suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought to
> cool fast. Is plywood OK?
you're pouring the hot lead into in the first place.
Also, the source of moisture is more likely to be the wood itself, so that
backing board and rudder are serious sources of danger, too.
I just got about ten pounds of free lead wheel weights from my local
garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of my
kick-up rudders?
Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the rudder?
I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything less
suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought to
cool fast. Is plywood OK?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth
garage. Any tips on melting them for use as weight in a couple of my
kick-up rudders?
Do you need to clean them in any special way before melting?
Can you just melt them in a coffee can with a blow torch?
I know about wearing protective eyewear and heavy sleeves/pants/,
etc. And making sure there's no water in the mix.
Any thoughts on what is best to back the hole you cut in the rudder?
I've seen some places recommend an asbestos board. Will anything less
suffice? It's a pretty small volume I'll be pouring -- so it ought to
cool fast. Is plywood OK?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth