Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides
I built a Long-EZ, and used peel ply extensively. It
works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the
stuff in 1", 2" 3" 4", et cetera rolls, it has pinked
edges, so it won't unravel.
The idea is to let the wax and other stuff in the
epoxy float through the peel ply, to the surface.
When you peel the tape off, it brings with it the
epoxy that is above it, containing all the impurities
that make epoxy refuse to stick to itself. The
resulting surface has a cloth-like texture. You can
sand it down smooth, easily. When you put more epoxy,
or fiberglass over it, it disappears. If you are
careful and lay your peel ply down straight, it
actually looks good, after you peel the peel ply off,
like a matte border.
--- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
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works wonders! Aircraft Spruce sells rolls of the
stuff in 1", 2" 3" 4", et cetera rolls, it has pinked
edges, so it won't unravel.
The idea is to let the wax and other stuff in the
epoxy float through the peel ply, to the surface.
When you peel the tape off, it brings with it the
epoxy that is above it, containing all the impurities
that make epoxy refuse to stick to itself. The
resulting surface has a cloth-like texture. You can
sand it down smooth, easily. When you put more epoxy,
or fiberglass over it, it disappears. If you are
careful and lay your peel ply down straight, it
actually looks good, after you peel the peel ply off,
like a matte border.
--- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
> According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e.__________________________________________________
> polyester)
> aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little
> easier to
> peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official
> material is peel
> ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use
> on layups they want
> to glue to later.
>
> I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply
> technique, as the
> point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would
> have rained
> VariEzes if it didn't work.
>
> Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you
> can get a chemical
> bond without sanding, according to Raka.
> --- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central
> Daylight Time,
> > james@p... writes:
> >
> >
> > > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to
> glue to
> > > with polyester dress lining as you cover with
> glass cloth.
> > > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass
> cures
> > > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding
> is required.
> > > If you are covering full sheets before cutting
> out pieces
> > > this method might be a little hard to do.
> > >
> > > James Fuller
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Mr. Fuller:
> >
> > Could you elaborate a little bit on this?
> This technique
> sounds like
> > it could be a real labor saver for "Instant
> Boats"-type hard-chined
> plywood
> > construction. What does this do? Create a rough
> surface? Inhibit
> curing?
> > Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window
> of time when the
> surfaces
> > so treated can be successfully bonded before
> requiring the "scour,
> rinse,
> > sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric
> outlet and ask for
> "polyester
> > dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion
> what I'm asking
> for? Would
> > I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you
> figure this out? I'm
> really,
> > really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds
> like a winner.
> >
> > Ciao for Niao,
> > Bill in MN
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
See Lincoln Ross and Vince Chew's answers. They said
it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce
and get their catalog. There is a good explanation there on the use of peel
ply. Also, most of the epoxy mfgrs
that we buy from in the home building boat hobby offer
free instructions on the use of their produce which would
include the use of polyester fabric/peel ply.
James
it better than I could. You might contact Aircraft Spruce
and get their catalog. There is a good explanation there on the use of peel
ply. Also, most of the epoxy mfgrs
that we buy from in the home building boat hobby offer
free instructions on the use of their produce which would
include the use of polyester fabric/peel ply.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides
> In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
>james@...writes:
>
>
> > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
> > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
> > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
> > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
> > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
> > this method might be a little hard to do.
> >
> > James Fuller
> >
> >
>
> Mr. Fuller:
>
> Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds
like
> it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
plywood
> construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
> Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
surfaces
> so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
> sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
> dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for?
Would
> I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
really,
> really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
According to Platt Monfort, you can use dacron (i.e. polyester)
aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to
peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official material is peel
ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use on layups they want
to glue to later.
I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply technique, as the
point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would have rained
VariEzes if it didn't work.
Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you can get a chemical
bond without sanding, according to Raka.
aircraft fabric for this also. Might be a little easier to
peel up as I think it's heavier. Expensive, official material is peel
ply, which homebuilders of full size airplanes use on layups they want
to glue to later.
I don't think there's a time limit on the peel ply technique, as the
point is to have a mechanical bond. I think it would have rained
VariEzes if it didn't work.
Of course if you can get to it in a day or so, you can get a chemical
bond without sanding, according to Raka.
--- In bolger@y..., wmrpage@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
> james@p... writes:
>
>
> > Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
> > with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
> > Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
> > pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
> > If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
> > this method might be a little hard to do.
> >
> > James Fuller
> >
> >
>
> Mr. Fuller:
>
> Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique
sounds like
> it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined
plywood
> construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit
curing?
> Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the
surfaces
> so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour,
rinse,
> sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for
"polyester
> dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking
for? Would
> I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm
really,
> really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 8/1/01 5:07:39 PM Central Daylight Time,
james@...writes:
Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like
it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined plywood
construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the surfaces
so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for? Would
I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm really,
really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
james@...writes:
> Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue toMr. Fuller:
> with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
> Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
> pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
> If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
> this method might be a little hard to do.
>
> James Fuller
>
>
Could you elaborate a little bit on this? This technique sounds like
it could be a real labor saver for "Instant Boats"-type hard-chined plywood
construction. What does this do? Create a rough surface? Inhibit curing?
Carry off "amine blush"? Is there a limited window of time when the surfaces
so treated can be successfully bonded before requiring the "scour, rinse,
sand & rinse" treatment? If I go to a fabric outlet and ask for "polyester
dress lining", will the saleslady have any notion what I'm asking for? Would
I be able to recognize it? How on earth did you figure this out? I'm really,
really intrigued by this concept. It sure sounds like a winner.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Epoxy will absolutely stick to epoxy. Non issue.
What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to
glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
pads. Then sand the glaze off the area. Then glue away.
Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
this method might be a little hard to do.
James Fuller
What you have to do is clean the areas you intend to
glue to. You can do this with water and scotchbrite
pads. Then sand the glaze off the area. Then glue away.
Another way is to cover the areas you intend to glue to
with polyester dress lining as you cover with glass cloth.
Squeege the dress lining down. When the glass cures
pull the polyester off and no cleaning/sanding is required.
If you are covering full sheets before cutting out pieces
this method might be a little hard to do.
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides
> Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
> previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
> buy stuff I guess.
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> >
> > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
> Parker, for
> > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
> to the
> > bare wood before glueing/taping.
> >
> > Jamie Orr
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
> > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
> >
> >
> > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
> > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
> checking.
> >
> > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
> the
> > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
> >
> > Pros:
> > 1) No checking
> > 2) No rot
> > 3) epoxy makes good primer
> > 4) wood sealed for outside building
> >
> > cons:
> > 1) cost
> > 2) adds weight
> > 3) adds work
> >
> > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Epoxy will adhere to old Epoxy if you rough it up really well with 100 grit
sand paper. Using a palm sander, I start with 60 grit then finish with 100
grit until the whole surface is scuffed well. Only took me about 15 minutes
to prep 32' of chine log area along the bottom of my Tennessee.
This is a mechanical bond and not as good as soaking into the wood but I
think it's still stronger than the plywood anyway. If your still nervous
about it, use another 1" wider tape at the joints to compensate.
Jeff
sand paper. Using a palm sander, I start with 60 grit then finish with 100
grit until the whole surface is scuffed well. Only took me about 15 minutes
to prep 32' of chine log area along the bottom of my Tennessee.
This is a mechanical bond and not as good as soaking into the wood but I
think it's still stronger than the plywood anyway. If your still nervous
about it, use another 1" wider tape at the joints to compensate.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 12:19 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides
> Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
> previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
> buy stuff I guess.
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
> >
> > Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
> Parker, for
> > one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
> to the
> > bare wood before glueing/taping.
> >
> > Jamie Orr
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
> > Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
> >
> >
> > I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
> > with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
> checking.
> >
> > I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
> the
> > boat. Anyone see any value in this?
> >
> > Pros:
> > 1) No checking
> > 2) No rot
> > 3) epoxy makes good primer
> > 4) wood sealed for outside building
> >
> > cons:
> > 1) cost
> > 2) adds weight
> > 3) adds work
> >
> > Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I've used 3/4 oz, or maybe it was 1 oz over all of my Nymph and some
of my current project. This is a pain to keep wrinkles out of, but
much lighter if you don't need the strength, and cheap. THe weight
isn't bad if you don't use too much epoxy, people use this weight
on model planes. It's MUCH easier to do a sheet on sawhorses than to
do it after the boat is assembled. If you were worried about bonding,
I suppose you could cut out the pieces, mask the edges about 2" with
tape, and then peel it back after the epoxy sets. At this weight you
can just rip it back without a whole lot of trouble, tho maybe some
more robust tape than masking tape would ensure the very edge of the
tape peeled up. DOing the sheets flat would save you a LOT of sanding
and scraping drips! If you're really careful you won't need to sand
much at all. Try to cut back any overlaps, scrape bumps, etc. maybe 1
day after putting the epoxy on, then wait as long as you can before
sanding so it doesn't turn into goo and clog the paper when the
friction heats it up.
The necessity of all this depends on how you keep your boat, what you
paint it with, and what kind of plywood it is. I have a luan boat that
was painted with latex and lived upside down for two or three years
outside, in a temperate climate with snow, rain, and sun. Looks fine.
GUess we lucked out on the quality of that wood. I have a daggerboard
of Southern Yellow Pine that I made and painted with latex that looked
awful right away, as soon as I used it. I had a varnished luan boat
that checked like crazy.
IT's true that putting on this glass is a fair amount of work. I think
it would depend a lot on how fancy the boat was. If you were using 3/8
or thicker ply, I'd consider MDO instead, though I don't have any
experience with this.
Epoxy doesn't make a good primer for everything, but I used latex
primer which stuck to it tenaciously. Maybe if my top coat was latex I
wouldn't have needed a primer, but I wanted to use silver oil based
paint.
I don't think this would keep away rot if you allowed any damage.
of my current project. This is a pain to keep wrinkles out of, but
much lighter if you don't need the strength, and cheap. THe weight
isn't bad if you don't use too much epoxy, people use this weight
on model planes. It's MUCH easier to do a sheet on sawhorses than to
do it after the boat is assembled. If you were worried about bonding,
I suppose you could cut out the pieces, mask the edges about 2" with
tape, and then peel it back after the epoxy sets. At this weight you
can just rip it back without a whole lot of trouble, tho maybe some
more robust tape than masking tape would ensure the very edge of the
tape peeled up. DOing the sheets flat would save you a LOT of sanding
and scraping drips! If you're really careful you won't need to sand
much at all. Try to cut back any overlaps, scrape bumps, etc. maybe 1
day after putting the epoxy on, then wait as long as you can before
sanding so it doesn't turn into goo and clog the paper when the
friction heats it up.
The necessity of all this depends on how you keep your boat, what you
paint it with, and what kind of plywood it is. I have a luan boat that
was painted with latex and lived upside down for two or three years
outside, in a temperate climate with snow, rain, and sun. Looks fine.
GUess we lucked out on the quality of that wood. I have a daggerboard
of Southern Yellow Pine that I made and painted with latex that looked
awful right away, as soon as I used it. I had a varnished luan boat
that checked like crazy.
IT's true that putting on this glass is a fair amount of work. I think
it would depend a lot on how fancy the boat was. If you were using 3/8
or thicker ply, I'd consider MDO instead, though I don't have any
experience with this.
Epoxy doesn't make a good primer for everything, but I used latex
primer which stuck to it tenaciously. Maybe if my top coat was latex I
wouldn't have needed a primer, but I wanted to use silver oil based
paint.
I don't think this would keep away rot if you allowed any damage.
--- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
> with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
checking.
>
> I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
the
> boat. Anyone see any value in this?
>
> Pros:
> 1) No checking
> 2) No rot
> 3) epoxy makes good primer
> 4) wood sealed for outside building
>
> cons:
> 1) cost
> 2) adds weight
> 3) adds work
>
> Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
Guess we are back to the old argument of whether epoxy will stick to
previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
buy stuff I guess.
previous coats of epoxy or not... Have to do some testing before I
buy stuff I guess.
--- In bolger@y..., "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@b...> wrote:
>
> Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel
Parker, for
> one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down
to the
> bare wood before glueing/taping.
>
> Jamie Orr
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: richard@s... [mailto:richard@s...]
> Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
>
>
> I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
> with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent
checking.
>
> I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on
the
> boat. Anyone see any value in this?
>
> Pros:
> 1) No checking
> 2) No rot
> 3) epoxy makes good primer
> 4) wood sealed for outside building
>
> cons:
> 1) cost
> 2) adds weight
> 3) adds work
>
> Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Actualy, I was thinking of glassing only the *inside* of the curves
pieces before assembly. It wouldn't make it harder to bend unless you
did the *outside* of the curve.
pieces before assembly. It wouldn't make it harder to bend unless you
did the *outside* of the curve.
--- In bolger@y..., bruce_hector@h... wrote:
> Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
> plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
It may bend harder to some degree but unless it's some radical bending, it's
easy to work a tiny bit harder in assembly and have the ease and convenience
of glassing on a flat surface at a decent height. You'd never do it any
other way once you've tried it.
Jeff
easy to work a tiny bit harder in assembly and have the ease and convenience
of glassing on a flat surface at a decent height. You'd never do it any
other way once you've tried it.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <bruce_hector@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Glassing both sides
> Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
> plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Ive never glassed before assembly. Doesn't this make bending the
plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
plywood to the curves much more difficult. Bruce
Yes, good value, I think. I glassed over fir plywood to avoid checking. I
glassed the outside hull, and wherever the sun could reach it inside, but
didn't glass the cockpit bottom since it is covered by floorboards -- I
epoxy coated and painted that. If I had it to do over, I would glass down
there too,so that I could leave rainwater standing in it without worrying.
As it is, I feel obliged to remove it as soon as I can when it rains --
although there's no sign of problems to date.
I used 6 ounce cloth almost everywhere. I did have some four ounce, but
found it harder to wet out thoroughly with its smaller weave, so went back
to 6 ounce for convenience -- it gives more protection anyway.
Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel Parker, for
one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down to the
bare wood before glueing/taping.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:richard@...[mailto:richard@...]
Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.
I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
boat. Anyone see any value in this?
Pros:
1) No checking
2) No rot
3) epoxy makes good primer
4) wood sealed for outside building
cons:
1) cost
2) adds weight
3) adds work
Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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glassed the outside hull, and wherever the sun could reach it inside, but
didn't glass the cockpit bottom since it is covered by floorboards -- I
epoxy coated and painted that. If I had it to do over, I would glass down
there too,so that I could leave rainwater standing in it without worrying.
As it is, I feel obliged to remove it as soon as I can when it rains --
although there's no sign of problems to date.
I used 6 ounce cloth almost everywhere. I did have some four ounce, but
found it harder to wet out thoroughly with its smaller weave, so went back
to 6 ounce for convenience -- it gives more protection anyway.
Glassing before assembly is easier, but some authorities (Reuel Parker, for
one) say that you should leave joining surfaces clean, or sand down to the
bare wood before glueing/taping.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:richard@...[mailto:richard@...]
Sent: August 1, 2001 7:17 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.
I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
boat. Anyone see any value in this?
Pros:
1) No checking
2) No rot
3) epoxy makes good primer
4) wood sealed for outside building
cons:
1) cost
2) adds weight
3) adds work
Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I have done the same with my Tennessee. I epoxy/glassed the sides facing
out and left the inside faces for painting only. If it's exposed as in the
cockpit, I'll glass those areas as needed. There are arguments for and
against epoxy coating both sides. If using marine ply, it's probably okay,
but with ACX, the gaps in the center ply can collect moisture/rot if not
absolutely sealed. One concept is to leave the inside faces free to breath
and dry. Where my climate is generally very dry, I opted for this concept.
If I was in a high humidity area, I still would but treat heavy with a
glycol/borax compound to stop rot, then paint.
It's way cheaper, easier, and doesn't add as much weight, etc.
Now this is for a trailer boat living 90% or more of it's life out of the
water. If it was moored or docked all summer or year, I'd go marine ply and
epoxy/glass everything even before cutting panels.
By the way, I tried to sand smooth as possible before assembly. Next time,
I'll just epoxy/glass then rough sand. I found that working on the boat
produces drips, scratches, screw holes, etc. so all the work I did trying to
fair was in vain as I now have to re-sand and fair again to clean up my
mess. Of course, some builders are much more careful than I but epoxy just
seems to drip no matter how hard I try.
Jeff
out and left the inside faces for painting only. If it's exposed as in the
cockpit, I'll glass those areas as needed. There are arguments for and
against epoxy coating both sides. If using marine ply, it's probably okay,
but with ACX, the gaps in the center ply can collect moisture/rot if not
absolutely sealed. One concept is to leave the inside faces free to breath
and dry. Where my climate is generally very dry, I opted for this concept.
If I was in a high humidity area, I still would but treat heavy with a
glycol/borax compound to stop rot, then paint.
It's way cheaper, easier, and doesn't add as much weight, etc.
Now this is for a trailer boat living 90% or more of it's life out of the
water. If it was moored or docked all summer or year, I'd go marine ply and
epoxy/glass everything even before cutting panels.
By the way, I tried to sand smooth as possible before assembly. Next time,
I'll just epoxy/glass then rough sand. I found that working on the boat
produces drips, scratches, screw holes, etc. so all the work I did trying to
fair was in vain as I now have to re-sand and fair again to clean up my
mess. Of course, some builders are much more careful than I but epoxy just
seems to drip no matter how hard I try.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 8:16 AM
Subject: [bolger] Glassing both sides
> I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
> with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.
>
> I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
> boat. Anyone see any value in this?
>
> Pros:
> 1) No checking
> 2) No rot
> 3) epoxy makes good primer
> 4) wood sealed for outside building
>
> cons:
> 1) cost
> 2) adds weight
> 3) adds work
>
> Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I'm considering glassing both sides of all the ply on the new boat,
with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.
I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
boat. Anyone see any value in this?
Pros:
1) No checking
2) No rot
3) epoxy makes good primer
4) wood sealed for outside building
cons:
1) cost
2) adds weight
3) adds work
Thought? Anyone? Anyone?
with at least a very light layer of cloth. Mainly to prevent checking.
I would glass the panels and sand them smooth before they went on the
boat. Anyone see any value in this?
Pros:
1) No checking
2) No rot
3) epoxy makes good primer
4) wood sealed for outside building
cons:
1) cost
2) adds weight
3) adds work
Thought? Anyone? Anyone?