Re: [bolger] Sanding Latex Primer?
On Tue, 21 Aug 2001, Clyde S. Wisner wrote:
only one. Read the label.
Furthermore, in my experience, it's a fine all-purpose primer, and I use
it exclusively on the boats I build (7 and counting). It's tenacious, and
it covers up very well.
> "You know" Kilz is a primer for sealing plaster and I don't know whyI'll disagree. Kilz is a primer for many purposes, of which plaster is
> anybody would want to seal epoxy. If you've invested in 1088, you
> probably ought to be looking at a good 2 part water urythane primer
> and paint like sys 3. Latex paint over "AC" or luan, maybe, but not
> after what you have already put in it, even disregarding the labor.
only one. Read the label.
Furthermore, in my experience, it's a fine all-purpose primer, and I use
it exclusively on the boats I build (7 and counting). It's tenacious, and
it covers up very well.
Why not just cover the boat with money?
I have a boat with latex primer over epoxy, and if I wanted to remove
it I'd probably have to use a chisel. It's good stuff. Another brand
in my case, but it works great.
We have another boat that's spent 2 or 3 years outside upside down
with ONLY latex and it has held up well. Now that I keep it sheltered
I don't imagine I will have to replace paint for many years except for
places where other things go wrong.
I think the Kilz 2 is not the same as the alcohol based Kilz that we
think of first.
I've heard bad stories about the water polyurethanes, but maybe System
3 is ok.
Extra money should only be spent on things that are better than the
cheaper alternatives.
I have a boat with latex primer over epoxy, and if I wanted to remove
it I'd probably have to use a chisel. It's good stuff. Another brand
in my case, but it works great.
We have another boat that's spent 2 or 3 years outside upside down
with ONLY latex and it has held up well. Now that I keep it sheltered
I don't imagine I will have to replace paint for many years except for
places where other things go wrong.
I think the Kilz 2 is not the same as the alcohol based Kilz that we
think of first.
I've heard bad stories about the water polyurethanes, but maybe System
3 is ok.
Extra money should only be spent on things that are better than the
cheaper alternatives.
--- In bolger@y..., "Clyde S. Wisner" <clydewis@c...> wrote:
> "You know" Kilz is a primer for sealing plaster and I don't know why
anybody would want to seal
> epoxy. If you've invested in 1088, you probably ought to be looking
at a good 2 part water urythane
> primer and paint like sys 3. Latex paint over "AC" or luan, maybe,
but not after what you have
> already put in it, even disregarding the labor. Sorry, Latexos.
Clyde
>
> Glen Gibson wrote:
>
> > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to
the
> > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
painting
> > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
quality
> > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> >
> > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
fiberglassed
> > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> >
> > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off
to fill
> > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the
latex
> > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some
of the
> > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> >
> > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
painting
> > tips.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Glen Gibson
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
"You know" Kilz is a primer for sealing plaster and I don't know why anybody would want to seal
epoxy. If you've invested in 1088, you probably ought to be looking at a good 2 part water urythane
primer and paint like sys 3. Latex paint over "AC" or luan, maybe, but not after what you have
already put in it, even disregarding the labor. Sorry, Latexos. Clyde
Glen Gibson wrote:
epoxy. If you've invested in 1088, you probably ought to be looking at a good 2 part water urythane
primer and paint like sys 3. Latex paint over "AC" or luan, maybe, but not after what you have
already put in it, even disregarding the labor. Sorry, Latexos. Clyde
Glen Gibson wrote:
> I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to the
> last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
> process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high quality
> latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
>
> By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and fiberglassed
> with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
>
> Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to fill
> small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the latex
> paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some of the
> other finishes, like LPU, etc).
>
> Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex painting
> tips.
>
> Thanks
>
> Glen Gibson
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I sanded
the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some parts of
the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1 coat
of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet &
dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as firmly
as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
painting...never leave it on for longer.
These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
DonB
the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some parts of
the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1 coat
of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet &
dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as firmly
as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
painting...never leave it on for longer.
These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to
the
> last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
> process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
quality
> latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
>
> By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
fiberglassed
> with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
>
> Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to
fill
> small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the
latex
> paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some
of the
> other finishes, like LPU, etc).
>
> Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
painting
> tips.
>
> Thanks
>
> Glen Gibson
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
didn't want to mix a batch of fairing compound. I never had trouble
with it. The cover was an epoxy barrier coat and then Interlux
Brightside but I don't see why it couldn't be used under latex.
Bob Chamberland
> If you don't have any 2X4's left, what do people think aboutI've used it successfully for filling screw holes etc when I just
> automotive spot putty? It's a pleasure to work with, and very fast,
> but I don't know how durable it is. Just smush it on in thin layers
> and sand most of it off.
>
> -Lincoln Ross
didn't want to mix a batch of fairing compound. I never had trouble
with it. The cover was an epoxy barrier coat and then Interlux
Brightside but I don't see why it couldn't be used under latex.
Bob Chamberland
I haven't noticed all that much filling provided by latex primer, tho
I used a different brand (which sticks very well, you can find it by
searching my previous posts as I forget the name). If the scratches
are very small, maybe it would work.
There is a trick which you can do with a 2X4, 8 feet long, tho a 16
footer is better: Place one end of the 2x4 on the boat, more or less
perpendicular to the surface. Place both hands on the other end of the
2X4.
That's it. Don't the scratches look smaller?
If you don't have any 2X4's left, what do people think about
automotive spot putty? It's a pleasure to work with, and very fast,
but I don't know how durable it is. Just smush it on in thin layers
and sand most of it off.
-Lincoln Ross
avoiding what I ought to be doing!
I used a different brand (which sticks very well, you can find it by
searching my previous posts as I forget the name). If the scratches
are very small, maybe it would work.
There is a trick which you can do with a 2X4, 8 feet long, tho a 16
footer is better: Place one end of the 2x4 on the boat, more or less
perpendicular to the surface. Place both hands on the other end of the
2X4.
That's it. Don't the scratches look smaller?
If you don't have any 2X4's left, what do people think about
automotive spot putty? It's a pleasure to work with, and very fast,
but I don't know how durable it is. Just smush it on in thin layers
and sand most of it off.
-Lincoln Ross
avoiding what I ought to be doing!
--- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
>
> I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to
the
> last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
> process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
quality
> latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
>
> By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
fiberglassed
> with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
>
> Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to
fill
> small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the
latex
> paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some of
the
> other finishes, like LPU, etc).
>
> Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
painting
> tips.
>
> Thanks
>
> Glen Gibson
--- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
the
light coat and sand most of it off. If the imperfections are still
there do it again. Primer will not fill serious imperfections though.
I've said it before on this site but the most important thing is to
scrub the epoxied surfaces with soap and water and with a scrub brush
before sanding to get every bit of the amine blush off of the
surface.
Sanding will drive the waxy stuff into the abrasions from the
sandpaper and it will be more difficult to clean it up.
Don't wait too long between your final primer coat and the finish
coat. It may not be so important with latex paints, I don't know, but
it is critical with some paints.
Try not to paint in full sun on a hot day.
Can someone tell me what kind of roller to use for latex on boats?
I've generally used two part paints and the West rollers but perhaps
that doesn't work well with latex.
Bob Chamberland
>fiberglassed
> By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.fill
>
> Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to
> small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does thelatex
> paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than someof
the
> other finishes, like LPU, etc).painting
>
> Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> tips.My experience with primers in general is that you put on a fairly
>
> Hi Glen,
light coat and sand most of it off. If the imperfections are still
there do it again. Primer will not fill serious imperfections though.
I've said it before on this site but the most important thing is to
scrub the epoxied surfaces with soap and water and with a scrub brush
before sanding to get every bit of the amine blush off of the
surface.
Sanding will drive the waxy stuff into the abrasions from the
sandpaper and it will be more difficult to clean it up.
Don't wait too long between your final primer coat and the finish
coat. It may not be so important with latex paints, I don't know, but
it is critical with some paints.
Try not to paint in full sun on a hot day.
Can someone tell me what kind of roller to use for latex on boats?
I've generally used two part paints and the West rollers but perhaps
that doesn't work well with latex.
Bob Chamberland
I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to the
last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high quality
latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and fiberglassed
with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to fill
small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the latex
paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some of the
other finishes, like LPU, etc).
Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex painting
tips.
Thanks
Glen Gibson
last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high quality
latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and fiberglassed
with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to fill
small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the latex
paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some of the
other finishes, like LPU, etc).
Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex painting
tips.
Thanks
Glen Gibson