Re: latex paints
> >are
> You are not likely to have a problem with your latex bottom if you
> trailersailing even with the boat in the water for a few days butif
> you leave your boat on a mooring for a season you are very likelyIf I were going to leave it in the water for months, I would
> going to have blistering or worse.
>
> Bob Chamberland
put anti-fouling on the bottom.
Even expensive "marine' topsides paints are not recommended for
continuous immersion.
Max
Bob, the URL ishttp://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/
Or, you can find a link to Dave's homepage on Craig O'D's Cheap
Pages, way down at the bottom. Or you can go to a search engine and
type in Dave Carnell's Boat Building Page and find a link that way.
When you get to the page, click on the link 'Articles From
Boatbuilder' and that will take you to the latex paint article.
Don Craig
Or, you can find a link to Dave's homepage on Craig O'D's Cheap
Pages, way down at the bottom. Or you can go to a search engine and
type in Dave Carnell's Boat Building Page and find a link that way.
When you get to the page, click on the link 'Articles From
Boatbuilder' and that will take you to the latex paint article.
Don Craig
> Hi Don, Can you post an address for Dave Carnell's Boat BuildingPage?
> Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., dcraig@w... wrote:
Bob Chamberland
> Richard, I would suggest going to Dave Carnell's Boat BuildingPage
> and reading his article on Latex Paints For Boats - I would give himHi Don, Can you post an address for Dave Carnell's Boat Building Page?
> some credence since he is a chemical engineer.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., cadbury@s... wrote:
trailersailing even with the boat in the water for a few days but if
you leave your boat on a mooring for a season you are very likely
going to have blistering or worse.
Bob Chamberland
> --- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:You are not likely to have a problem with your latex bottom if you are
> > However, I would not use latex anywhere underwater, at this point
> > anyway.
>
>
> My AF4 is painted with (2) coats of latex primer and (2) coats
> of acrylic latex topcoat over bare plywood (not epoxy soaked).
>
> So far there has been no problems with the paint below the waterline
> (or above.) The boat has sat in the water for about 48 hours each
> over (3) weekends this year, with several shorter periods of
> a few hours each (day trips.) It will be in the water for about
> 48 hours again this weekend.
trailersailing even with the boat in the water for a few days but if
you leave your boat on a mooring for a season you are very likely
going to have blistering or worse.
Bob Chamberland
> Don, your comment about old-time painters saying always use oilbased primer for latex top coats....I had the same feedback as you
from older painters.
The bias in favor of oil paint on the part of "old-time painters" is
very strong, but the paint makers (who test their products
scientificaly) thing the current latex paints are better, at least
for houses. I think the painters must have tried the first latex
paints back in the '50's or whenever, and formed their opinion then.
The government has applied strong pressure to reduce the use of
organic solvents, of course.
From the environmental/safety point of view, the modern world seem to
be dividing between the very safe latex paint, and the positively
poisonous like AllGrip.
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., dbaldnz@y... wrote:
of acrylic latex topcoat over bare plywood (not epoxy soaked).
So far there has been no problems with the paint below the waterline
(or above.) The boat has sat in the water for about 48 hours each
over (3) weekends this year, with several shorter periods of
a few hours each (day trips.) It will be in the water for about
48 hours again this weekend.
It is not real easy to clean the waterline "scum" off this semi-gloss
paint, and it probably not as resistant to abrasion as a two-part
polyurethane, but it much cheaper, much easier to recoat, and it
is certainly not "washing off" below the waterline.
I will use latex on my next boat, but may try the gloss instead of
the semi-gloss.
Max
> However, I would not use latex anywhere underwater, at this pointMy AF4 is painted with (2) coats of latex primer and (2) coats
> anyway.
of acrylic latex topcoat over bare plywood (not epoxy soaked).
So far there has been no problems with the paint below the waterline
(or above.) The boat has sat in the water for about 48 hours each
over (3) weekends this year, with several shorter periods of
a few hours each (day trips.) It will be in the water for about
48 hours again this weekend.
It is not real easy to clean the waterline "scum" off this semi-gloss
paint, and it probably not as resistant to abrasion as a two-part
polyurethane, but it much cheaper, much easier to recoat, and it
is certainly not "washing off" below the waterline.
I will use latex on my next boat, but may try the gloss instead of
the semi-gloss.
Max
Don, your comment about old-time painters saying always use oil based
primer for latex top coats....I had the same feedback as you from
older painters, but when Don Carnell replied to my query, he
said "Why would you want to"? Well, I tried the masking tape test,
and the latex primer has stuck like glue.....not a bit has come off
in over 100ft of very firm taping.
However, I would not use latex anywhere underwater, at this point
anyway.
DonB
primer for latex top coats....I had the same feedback as you from
older painters, but when Don Carnell replied to my query, he
said "Why would you want to"? Well, I tried the masking tape test,
and the latex primer has stuck like glue.....not a bit has come off
in over 100ft of very firm taping.
However, I would not use latex anywhere underwater, at this point
anyway.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., dcraig@w... wrote:
> Richard, I would suggest going to Dave Carnell's Boat Building
Page
> and reading his article on Latex Paints For Boats - I would give
him
> some credence since he is a chemical engineer.
>
> > i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I
have
> been reading some propaganda
> > (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i
know
> that proper moisture content wood
> > should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
> paint is formulated to be porous?
>
> That's pretty much exactly what it means. In an earlier life, I
was
> making carved wooden signs for a living and I did NOT want paint
> blistering. These signs were going to be exposed to sun and
elements
> 24-7-365, year after year. I researched the literature from
> experienced sign makers and learned that the best protective
coating
> was not oil paint but latex. Oil paint had the best reputation
> because it had been used for centuries - it was all that was
> available, not counting shellac and lacquer, milk paint etc. - and
> latex was new and crappy at first, but excellent today.
> The proper moisture content of wood is not worth bothering
about,
> for our purposes, because kiln dried values are worthless as soon
as
> you stack the wood in an open air warehouse - and that's where most
of
> us find our stuff.
> All wood, seasoned or not, has moisture in it to a greater or
> lesser degree. Depending on the moisture content inside the wood
and
> the outside climatic conditions, oil paint can be a great coating
for
> many years or it can start to blister in a few years. The reason
for
> blistering is that the moisture wants out and the oil paint won't
let
> it out, so the wood and paint separate. Oil paint is not porous
for
> the passage of moisture.
> I recently scraped and repainted a fancy fence that had been
> painted with oil six years ago. In places the paint pulled off in
> strips. Underneath, the wood was green with fungus and wet; wet,
even
> after five weeks of hot dry weather. There was nothing wrong with
the
> paint, it was thick and the strips were strong - but there was a
> failure in the bond between paint and wood.
> Latex paint, in my humble opinion based on research (reading)
and
> experimentation, is porous to the passage of moisture and will not
> blister (that doesn't mean it won't strip off epoxy that has not
been
> properly prepared). The best paint I found for signage was Pratt &
> Lambert exterior acrylic/latex house trim paint. It has a high
level
> of pigment content, so color retention lasts longer under weather.
> Signs I painted six years ago with acrylic/latex have still not
> blistered.
> Honestly, I do not know, or have an opinion, on how latex would
> perform on the bottom of a boat that sits in the water all season.
But
> for a dry sailer, I would use it.
>
> how
> > do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good
one
> for a boat.
>
> For a boat, I would consider an acrylic/latex 'deck and porch'
> enamel - paint that is intended to be walked on should be the most
> durable.
> I've had this discussion with so-called house painters who do
this
> for a living, and I hear things like 'latex paints on a fence or
sign
> are good, but you still have to prime it with an oil base primer.'
Go
> figure.
>
> Don Craig
>
>
>
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> --
> > >
> > > There are 5 messages in this issue.
> > >
> > > Topics in this digest:
> > >
> > > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > > From: raymcquin@y...
> > > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > >
> > > Richard:
> > >
> > > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
parrels
> on my
> > > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
> stock from
> > > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ah, that would make sense.
> > > >
> > > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings
aluminum
> > > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> > > >
> > > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
centerboard,
> and
> > > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
> > > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> > > >
> > > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few
years
> of
> > > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup
so
> it's
> > > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
> aluminum
> > > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
> coating
> > > > of
> > > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
> corrosion. In
> > > > a
> > > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off
and
> > > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
> the
> > > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
> hardcoat
> > > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
> impregnated
> > > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes
to
> make
> > > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of
the
> > > > better-
> > > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
> trouble,
> > > > why
> > > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith Wilson
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I
could
> cast
> > > > > > parts out of it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you
> like
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> > > From: raymcquin@y...
> > > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > >
> > > Bryan,
> > >
> > > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
> provide
> > > any links to his designs?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ray McQuin
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> > > inspired
> > > > design by Phil Theil.
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> > > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > >
> > > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
> sanded
> > > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
parts
> of
> > > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad.
Then
> > > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well,
as
> > > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> > > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
> coat
> > > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
> > > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> > > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly
with "wet
> &
> > > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
> firmly
> > > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of
the
> > > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> > > painting...never leave it on for longer.
> > > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> > > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> > > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> > > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> > > DonB
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished
(down
> to
> > > the
> > > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
> painting
> > > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a
high
> > > quality
> > > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> > > >
> > > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> > > fiberglassed
> > > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> > > >
> > > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
> small
> > > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
off
> to
> > > fill
> > > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or
does
> the
> > > latex
> > > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
> some
> > > of the
> > > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> > > >
> > > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> > > painting
> > > > tips.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Glen Gibson
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > >
> > > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
> > >
> > > HJ
> > >
> > > >
> > > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass
being
> > > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the
sides
> > > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to
hold
> it
> > > > in place.
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > > > night's sleep worth to you?
> > > >
> > > > Vance
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you
> like
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> > > the new Water Craft mag.
> > >
> > > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> > > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> > > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> > > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> > > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
> > >
> > > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> > > built out of Bruynzeel?
> > >
> > > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> > > appraisal of how she performs.
> > >
> > > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
> > >
> > > Bill Samson
> > >
> > > ____________________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > > or your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ie
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --
Thomas
> Edison
Richard, I would suggest going to Dave Carnell's Boat Building Page
and reading his article on Latex Paints For Boats - I would give him
some credence since he is a chemical engineer.
That's pretty much exactly what it means. In an earlier life, I was
making carved wooden signs for a living and I did NOT want paint
blistering. These signs were going to be exposed to sun and elements
24-7-365, year after year. I researched the literature from
experienced sign makers and learned that the best protective coating
was not oil paint but latex. Oil paint had the best reputation
because it had been used for centuries - it was all that was
available, not counting shellac and lacquer, milk paint etc. - and
latex was new and crappy at first, but excellent today.
The proper moisture content of wood is not worth bothering about,
for our purposes, because kiln dried values are worthless as soon as
you stack the wood in an open air warehouse - and that's where most of
us find our stuff.
All wood, seasoned or not, has moisture in it to a greater or
lesser degree. Depending on the moisture content inside the wood and
the outside climatic conditions, oil paint can be a great coating for
many years or it can start to blister in a few years. The reason for
blistering is that the moisture wants out and the oil paint won't let
it out, so the wood and paint separate. Oil paint is not porous for
the passage of moisture.
I recently scraped and repainted a fancy fence that had been
painted with oil six years ago. In places the paint pulled off in
strips. Underneath, the wood was green with fungus and wet; wet, even
after five weeks of hot dry weather. There was nothing wrong with the
paint, it was thick and the strips were strong - but there was a
failure in the bond between paint and wood.
Latex paint, in my humble opinion based on research (reading) and
experimentation, is porous to the passage of moisture and will not
blister (that doesn't mean it won't strip off epoxy that has not been
properly prepared). The best paint I found for signage was Pratt &
Lambert exterior acrylic/latex house trim paint. It has a high level
of pigment content, so color retention lasts longer under weather.
Signs I painted six years ago with acrylic/latex have still not
blistered.
Honestly, I do not know, or have an opinion, on how latex would
perform on the bottom of a boat that sits in the water all season. But
for a dry sailer, I would use it.
how
For a boat, I would consider an acrylic/latex 'deck and porch'
enamel - paint that is intended to be walked on should be the most
durable.
I've had this discussion with so-called house painters who do this
for a living, and I hear things like 'latex paints on a fence or sign
are good, but you still have to prime it with an oil base primer.' Go
figure.
Don Craig
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
--
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
__
and reading his article on Latex Paints For Boats - I would give him
some credence since he is a chemical engineer.
> i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I havebeen reading some propaganda
> (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i knowthat proper moisture content wood
> should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex housepaint is formulated to be porous?
That's pretty much exactly what it means. In an earlier life, I was
making carved wooden signs for a living and I did NOT want paint
blistering. These signs were going to be exposed to sun and elements
24-7-365, year after year. I researched the literature from
experienced sign makers and learned that the best protective coating
was not oil paint but latex. Oil paint had the best reputation
because it had been used for centuries - it was all that was
available, not counting shellac and lacquer, milk paint etc. - and
latex was new and crappy at first, but excellent today.
The proper moisture content of wood is not worth bothering about,
for our purposes, because kiln dried values are worthless as soon as
you stack the wood in an open air warehouse - and that's where most of
us find our stuff.
All wood, seasoned or not, has moisture in it to a greater or
lesser degree. Depending on the moisture content inside the wood and
the outside climatic conditions, oil paint can be a great coating for
many years or it can start to blister in a few years. The reason for
blistering is that the moisture wants out and the oil paint won't let
it out, so the wood and paint separate. Oil paint is not porous for
the passage of moisture.
I recently scraped and repainted a fancy fence that had been
painted with oil six years ago. In places the paint pulled off in
strips. Underneath, the wood was green with fungus and wet; wet, even
after five weeks of hot dry weather. There was nothing wrong with the
paint, it was thick and the strips were strong - but there was a
failure in the bond between paint and wood.
Latex paint, in my humble opinion based on research (reading) and
experimentation, is porous to the passage of moisture and will not
blister (that doesn't mean it won't strip off epoxy that has not been
properly prepared). The best paint I found for signage was Pratt &
Lambert exterior acrylic/latex house trim paint. It has a high level
of pigment content, so color retention lasts longer under weather.
Signs I painted six years ago with acrylic/latex have still not
blistered.
Honestly, I do not know, or have an opinion, on how latex would
perform on the bottom of a boat that sits in the water all season. But
for a dry sailer, I would use it.
how
> do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good onefor a boat.
For a boat, I would consider an acrylic/latex 'deck and porch'
enamel - paint that is intended to be walked on should be the most
durable.
I've had this discussion with so-called house painters who do this
for a living, and I hear things like 'latex paints on a fence or sign
are good, but you still have to prime it with an oil base primer.' Go
figure.
Don Craig
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
--
> >______________________________________________________________________
> > There are 5 messages in this issue.
> >
> > Topics in this digest:
> >
> > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> >
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >on my
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> >
> > Richard:
> >
> > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for parrels
> > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushingstock from
> > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.and
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ah, that would make sense.
> > >
> > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
> > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> > >
> > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder, centerboard,
> > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminumof
> > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> > >
> > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
> > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup soit's
> > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.aluminum
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
> > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thincoating
> > > ofcorrosion. In
> > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
> > > athe
> > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
> > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
> > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probablyhardcoat
> > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizingimpregnated
> > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes tomake
> > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of thetrouble,
> > > better-
> > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
> > > whycast
> > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > > >
> > > > Keith Wilson
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could
> > > > > parts out of it?horses
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuatelike
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > >______________________________________________________________________
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >provide
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Bryan,
> >
> > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
> > any links to his designs?______________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ray McQuin
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> > inspired
> > > design by Phil Theil.
> >
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >sanded
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> >
> > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
> > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some partsof
> > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Thencoat
> > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
> > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
> > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my&
> > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet
> > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied asfirmly
> > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of theto
> > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> > painting...never leave it on for longer.
> > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> > DonB
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
> > thepainting
> > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
> > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a highsmall
> > quality
> > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> > >
> > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> > fiberglassed
> > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> > >
> > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
> > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand offto
> > fillthe
> > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
> > latexsome
> > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
> > of the______________________________________________________________________
> > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> > >
> > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> > painting
> > > tips.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Glen Gibson
> >
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >it
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > >
> > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
> > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
> > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold
> > > in place.horses
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > > night's sleep worth to you?
> > >
> > > Vance
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuatelike
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >______________________________________________________________________
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> > the new Water Craft mag.
> >
> > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
> >
> > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> > built out of Bruynzeel?
> >
> > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> > appraisal of how she performs.
> >
> > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
> >
> > Bill Samson
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > or your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ie
> >
> >
__
> >______________________________________________________________________
__
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>Edison
> --
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
--- In bolger@y..., sanmi@y... wrote:
Give your paint the masking tape test. Put a strip of tape on the
painted surface then rip it off. If it doesn't pull any paint off then
I would consider it a base coat. I would just sand it down as directed
by the fine print on the can of primer.
If the paint rips off, take it off, but you shouldn't have to go down
to bare wood unless what came off with the tape went to bare wood
also. I think the fine print on most paint cans cautions about using
primer over unidentified previously painted surfaces.
Bob Chamberland
> I've been following the latex conversation thread and it reminds meup
> of a problem I am soon to face.
>
> My new-to-me boat is painted with a one-part polyurethane paint sold
> as a rust paint (don't know the brand or part name). It looks great
> on the boat but I will need to perform repairs which require touch
> repainting and I am considering switching to latex house paint atthe
> same time. On of the reasons for contemplating a switch is that IHi Frank,
> tend to bang my boats around a lot and I'd like a coating that is
> easy to retouch.
>
> So...has anyone replaced one-part polyurethane with latex? I am
> wondering whether I have to go down to the bare wood or not.
>
> Frank San Miguel
Give your paint the masking tape test. Put a strip of tape on the
painted surface then rip it off. If it doesn't pull any paint off then
I would consider it a base coat. I would just sand it down as directed
by the fine print on the can of primer.
If the paint rips off, take it off, but you shouldn't have to go down
to bare wood unless what came off with the tape went to bare wood
also. I think the fine print on most paint cans cautions about using
primer over unidentified previously painted surfaces.
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
solvents which is why Epoxy manufacturers warn against using thinners
or at most minimal thinners. Thinner reduces the imperviosity of the
epoxy (how's that for a word?). Regardless I presume you would be
using latex only as a topside paint on a boat in the water all season
in which case it's essentially the same application as putting it on a
house. I don't think you would have any luck using it on the bottom
for a moored boat. Even two part epoxy paint (on the bottom) will
blister if left in the water-this is painful experience speaking. If
you use epoxy or an epoxy barrier coat you probably would not have any
problem at all (topsides). I would epoxy and glass the bottom of any
of the boats we are talking about and use bottom paint and a boot
stripe. The results you get with a latex topcoat are directly a
function of what you do to the surface under. Scrub epoxy, use a good
primer and sand most of it away and don't paint in the hot sun and
whatever else all that fine print on the can says.
Bob Chamberland
> Lots of paint films use other solvents. There is an alcohol basedno doubt some exceptions. The porosity is created by the evaporating
> paint which is sold as a vapor barrier.
> --- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
> >
> > It's my understanding that basically all paint films are porus to
> > water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the
> base
> > evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
> > other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.
> >
> > PHV
> >
> >Basically yes paint films are porous to water vapor but there are
solvents which is why Epoxy manufacturers warn against using thinners
or at most minimal thinners. Thinner reduces the imperviosity of the
epoxy (how's that for a word?). Regardless I presume you would be
using latex only as a topside paint on a boat in the water all season
in which case it's essentially the same application as putting it on a
house. I don't think you would have any luck using it on the bottom
for a moored boat. Even two part epoxy paint (on the bottom) will
blister if left in the water-this is painful experience speaking. If
you use epoxy or an epoxy barrier coat you probably would not have any
problem at all (topsides). I would epoxy and glass the bottom of any
of the boats we are talking about and use bottom paint and a boot
stripe. The results you get with a latex topcoat are directly a
function of what you do to the surface under. Scrub epoxy, use a good
primer and sand most of it away and don't paint in the hot sun and
whatever else all that fine print on the can says.
Bob Chamberland
> >have
> > --- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I
> > been reading some propaganda
> > > (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i
> know
> > that proper moisture content wood
> > > should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
> > paint is formulated to be porous? how
> > > do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good
> one
> > for a boat. I am still trying to
> > > decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i
> don't
> > feel comfortable doing fiberglass
> > > work....
> > >
> > > not so short question huh?
> > > Richard
I've been following the latex conversation thread and it reminds me
of a problem I am soon to face.
My new-to-me boat is painted with a one-part polyurethane paint sold
as a rust paint (don't know the brand or part name). It looks great
on the boat but I will need to perform repairs which require touch up
repainting and I am considering switching to latex house paint at the
same time. On of the reasons for contemplating a switch is that I
tend to bang my boats around a lot and I'd like a coating that is
easy to retouch.
So...has anyone replaced one-part polyurethane with latex? I am
wondering whether I have to go down to the bare wood or not.
Frank San Miguel
of a problem I am soon to face.
My new-to-me boat is painted with a one-part polyurethane paint sold
as a rust paint (don't know the brand or part name). It looks great
on the boat but I will need to perform repairs which require touch up
repainting and I am considering switching to latex house paint at the
same time. On of the reasons for contemplating a switch is that I
tend to bang my boats around a lot and I'd like a coating that is
easy to retouch.
So...has anyone replaced one-part polyurethane with latex? I am
wondering whether I have to go down to the bare wood or not.
Frank San Miguel
Lots of paint films use other solvents. There is an alcohol based
paint which is sold as a vapor barrier.
paint which is sold as a vapor barrier.
--- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
>
> It's my understanding that basically all paint films are porus to
> water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the
base
> evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
> other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.
>
> PHV
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
> been reading some propaganda
> > (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i
know
> that proper moisture content wood
> > should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
> paint is formulated to be porous? how
> > do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good
one
> for a boat. I am still trying to
> > decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i
don't
> feel comfortable doing fiberglass
> > work....
> >
> > not so short question huh?
> > Richard
> >
> > bolger@y... wrote:
> >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
> > >
> > > There are 5 messages in this issue.
> > >
> > > Topics in this digest:
> > >
> > > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > > From: raymcquin@y...
> > > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> > > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > >
> > > Richard:
> > >
> > > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
> parrels on my
> > > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
> stock from
> > > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Ah, that would make sense.
> > > >
> > > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings
aluminum
> > > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> > > >
> > > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
> centerboard, and
> > > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
> > > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> > > >
> > > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
> of
> > > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so
> it's
> > > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
> aluminum
> > > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
> coating
> > > > of
> > > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
> corrosion. In
> > > > a
> > > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off
and
> > > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
> the
> > > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
> hardcoat
> > > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
> impregnated
> > > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes
to
> make
> > > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of
the
> > > > better-
> > > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
> trouble,
> > > > why
> > > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith Wilson
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I
could
> cast
> > > > > > parts out of it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
> you like
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> > > From: raymcquin@y...
> > > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > >
> > > Bryan,
> > >
> > > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
> provide
> > > any links to his designs?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ray McQuin
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> > > inspired
> > > > design by Phil Theil.
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> > > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > >
> > > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
> sanded
> > > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
> parts of
> > > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad.
Then
> > > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well,
as
> > > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> > > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
> coat
> > > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
> > > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> > > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with
"wet
> &
> > > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
> firmly
> > > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of
the
> > > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> > > painting...never leave it on for longer.
> > > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> > > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> > > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> > > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> > > DonB
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
> to
> > > the
> > > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
> painting
> > > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a
high
> > > quality
> > > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> > > >
> > > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> > > fiberglassed
> > > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> > > >
> > > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
> small
> > > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
> off to
> > > fill
> > > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
> the
> > > latex
> > > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
> some
> > > of the
> > > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> > > >
> > > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> > > painting
> > > > tips.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > Glen Gibson
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> > > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > >
> > > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
> > >
> > > HJ
> > >
> > > >
> > > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass
being
> > > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the
sides
> > > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to
hold
> it
> > > > in place.
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > > > night's sleep worth to you?
> > > >
> > > > Vance
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
> you like
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> > > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> > > the new Water Craft mag.
> > >
> > > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> > > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> > > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> > > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> > > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
> > >
> > > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> > > built out of Bruynzeel?
> > >
> > > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> > > appraisal of how she performs.
> > >
> > > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
> > >
> > > Bill Samson
> > >
> > > ____________________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > > or your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ie
> > >
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> __
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> > --
> > To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
--Thomas
> Edison
It's my understanding that basically all paint films are porus to
water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the base
evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.
PHV
water vapor. How else does the paint dry, lest the sovent at the base
evaporates through the paint layer to the surface? Epoxy, on the
other hand, does not "dry" but changes chemically to a solid.
PHV
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
been reading some propaganda
> (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know
that proper moisture content wood
> should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
paint is formulated to be porous? how
> do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one
for a boat. I am still trying to
> decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't
feel comfortable doing fiberglass
> work....
>
> not so short question huh?
> Richard
>
> bolger@y... wrote:
>
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> > There are 5 messages in this issue.
> >
> > Topics in this digest:
> >
> > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> >
> > Richard:
> >
> > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
parrels on my
> > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
stock from
> > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ah, that would make sense.
> > >
> > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
> > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> > >
> > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
centerboard, and
> > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
> > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> > >
> > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
of
> > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so
it's
> > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
aluminum
> > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
coating
> > > of
> > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
corrosion. In
> > > a
> > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
> > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
the
> > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
hardcoat
> > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
impregnated
> > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes to
make
> > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of the
> > > better-
> > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
trouble,
> > > why
> > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > > >
> > > > Keith Wilson
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could
cast
> > > > > parts out of it?
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Bryan,
> >
> > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
provide
> > any links to his designs?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ray McQuin
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> > inspired
> > > design by Phil Theil.
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> >
> > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
sanded
> > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
parts of
> > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
> > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
> > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
coat
> > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
> > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet
&
> > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
firmly
> > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
> > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> > painting...never leave it on for longer.
> > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> > DonB
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
to
> > the
> > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
painting
> > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
> > quality
> > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> > >
> > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> > fiberglassed
> > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> > >
> > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
small
> > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
off to
> > fill
> > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
the
> > latex
> > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
some
> > of the
> > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> > >
> > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> > painting
> > > tips.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Glen Gibson
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > >
> > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
> > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
> > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold
it
> > > in place.
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > > night's sleep worth to you?
> > >
> > > Vance
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> > the new Water Craft mag.
> >
> > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
> >
> > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> > built out of Bruynzeel?
> >
> > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> > appraisal of how she performs.
> >
> > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
> >
> > Bill Samson
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > or your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ie
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
Edison
Hi Richard, Here in New Zealand, we call latex paint "acrylic"...not
sure if you use that word in USA.........but the key is, to make sure
the paint is labeled "100% acrylic" (latex).
As for breathing, no paint will resist water vapour.
DonB
sure if you use that word in USA.........but the key is, to make sure
the paint is labeled "100% acrylic" (latex).
As for breathing, no paint will resist water vapour.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
been reading some propaganda
> (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know
that proper moisture content wood
> should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
paint is formulated to be porous? how
> do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one
for a boat. I am still trying to
> decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't
feel comfortable doing fiberglass
> work....
>
> not so short question huh?
> Richard
>
> bolger@y... wrote:
>
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
------
> >
> > There are 5 messages in this issue.
> >
> > Topics in this digest:
> >
> > 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> > From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...>
> > Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> >
> > Richard:
> >
> > I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for
parrels on my
> > Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing
stock from
> > McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ah, that would make sense.
> > >
> > > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
> > > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> > >
> > > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder,
centerboard, and
> > > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
> > > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> > >
> > > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years
of
> > > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so
it's
> > > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare
aluminum
> > > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin
coating
> > > of
> > > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further
corrosion. In
> > > a
> > > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
> > > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside
the
> > > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably
hardcoat
> > > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing
impregnated
> > > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes to
make
> > > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of the
> > > better-
> > > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that
trouble,
> > > why
> > > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > > >
> > > > Keith Wilson
> > > >
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could
cast
> > > > > parts out of it?
> > > > >
> > > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> > From: raymcquin@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Bryan,
> >
> > I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you
provide
> > any links to his designs?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ray McQuin
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> > inspired
> > > design by Phil Theil.
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> > From: dbaldnz@y...
> > Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> >
> > Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I
sanded
> > the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some
parts of
> > the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
> > started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
> > the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> > about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1
coat
> > of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
> > random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> > primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet
&
> > dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as
firmly
> > as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
> > paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> > painting...never leave it on for longer.
> > These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> > versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> > development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> > final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> > DonB
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down
to
> > the
> > > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the
painting
> > > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
> > quality
> > > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> > >
> > > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> > fiberglassed
> > > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> > >
> > > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling
small
> > > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand
off to
> > fill
> > > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does
the
> > latex
> > > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than
some
> > of the
> > > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> > >
> > > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> > painting
> > > tips.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Glen Gibson
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> > From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...>
> > Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> >
> > Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > >
> > > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
> > > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
> > > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold
it
> > > in place.
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > > night's sleep worth to you?
> > >
> > > Vance
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> > From: William Samson <willsamson@y...>
> > Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> > the new Water Craft mag.
> >
> > Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> > mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> > him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> > ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> > more than the usual amount of brightwork.
> >
> > I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> > built out of Bruynzeel?
> >
> > Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> > appraisal of how she performs.
> >
> > A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
> >
> > Bill Samson
> >
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> > or your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ie
> >
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
______________________________________________________________________
__
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
Edison
I dunno about the latex. I do know that on some houses a way to get
rid of trapped moisture is a good thing.
Glass work is easy, but tedious. So you can probably handle it if you
want to do it, but it takes a long time. Just mess around on some
scrap first to get the hang of it. If you are very careful with the
mix and do good surface prep you should be fine, if that's what you
want.
Takes less time if you put the plywood on sawhorses and glass it
first, and do any other tricks you can to avoid drips and the need for
excessive sanding (ugh!).
rid of trapped moisture is a good thing.
Glass work is easy, but tedious. So you can probably handle it if you
want to do it, but it takes a long time. Just mess around on some
scrap first to get the hang of it. If you are very careful with the
mix and do good surface prep you should be fine, if that's what you
want.
Takes less time if you put the plywood on sawhorses and glass it
first, and do any other tricks you can to avoid drips and the need for
excessive sanding (ugh!).
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have
been reading some propaganda
> (advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know
that proper moisture content wood
> should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house
paint is formulated to be porous? how
> do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one
for a boat. I am still trying to
> decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't
feel comfortable doing fiberglass
> work....
>
> not so short question huh?
> Richard
>
> bolger@y... wrote:
>
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>snipped a looong list of quoted stuff
Hi all,
i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have been reading some propaganda
(advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know that proper moisture content wood
should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house paint is formulated to be porous? how
do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one for a boat. I am still trying to
decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't feel comfortable doing fiberglass
work....
not so short question huh?
Richard
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrote:
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas Edison
i have a quick (i hope) question about latex house paints. I have been reading some propaganda
(advertisements) that talk about letting the wood "breath." i know that proper moisture content wood
should not need to "breath", but does this mean that latex house paint is formulated to be porous? how
do i tell an intentionally porous latex house paint from a good one for a boat. I am still trying to
decide whether to glass or not, but i probably wont because i don't feel comfortable doing fiberglass
work....
not so short question huh?
Richard
bolger@yahoogroups.comwrote:
> Bolger rules!!!--
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> There are 5 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> 2. Re: Sharpie Pounding
> From:raymcquin@...
> 3. Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
> From:dbaldnz@...
> 4. Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
> 5. An article to salivate over . . .
> From: William Samson <willsamson@...>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:55:54 -0500
> From: "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Centerboard pivot
>
> Richard:
>
> I like the UHMW idea. You may remember that I used it for parrels on my
> Caprice. Also for hatch glides. You can get extruded bushing stock from
> McMaster-carr with 1-1/4" ID and various OD's.
>
> Chuck
>
> >
> >
> > Ah, that would make sense.
> >
> > Googling shows quite a few references to "uhmw bushings aluminum
> > shaft"... Even a couple of marine ones.
> >
> > For the low load, slow speed application of rudder, centerboard, and
> > tabernacle pivot, think I could get away with 1 1/8" aluminum
> > shafting and uhmw poly bushings?
> >
> > I suspect the bushings and shafts would last quite a few years of
> > normal trailer sailing use. I'd be sure to design the setup so it's
> > easy to dissassemble for inspections and/or replacements.
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> > > Why doesn't aluminum make a good bearing? The reason bare aluminum
> > > doesn't "rust" in normal use is that it forms a very thin coating
> > of
> > > aluminum oxide on the surface which inhibits further corrosion. In
> > a
> > > bearing application, this coating is continuously worn off and
> > > renewed. Well, guess what, the aluminuum oxide left inside the
> > > beaing is quite an effective abrasive. You could probably hardcoat
> > > anodize it, or "hardlube", which is hardcoat anodizing impregnated
> > > with teflon. There are also several proprietary processes to make
> > > aluminum into a decent bearing surface, "Nituff" is one of the
> > better-
> > > known ones, but by the time you've gone through all that trouble,
> > why
> > > not just use bronze or stainless steel in the first place?
> > >
> > > Keith Wilson
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., richard@s... wrote:
> > > > UHMW poly has a pretty low melting point. Wonder if I could cast
> > > > parts out of it?
> > > >
> > > > Also, why doesn't it work well with aluminum?
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> > Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 04:49:23 -0000
> From:raymcquin@...
> Subject: Re: Sharpie Pounding
>
> Bryan,
>
> I've searched for info on Phil Theil with no luck. Can you provide
> any links to his designs?
>
> Thanks,
> Ray McQuin
>
> --- In bolger@y..., king@c... wrote:
> > My wife and I just spent a weekend on my Escargot, a bolger
> inspired
> > design by Phil Theil.
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 05:11:04 -0000
> From:dbaldnz@...
> Subject: Re: Sanding Latex Primer?
>
> Glen, I am nearly through re-painting my Micro with latex. I sanded
> the previous enamel paint back to the epoxy, touched up some parts of
> the epoxy and scrubbed down with a scotchbrite plastic pad. Then
> started again with a latex primer, which has stuck really well, as
> the paint manufacturer said it would. It's filling capacity was
> about the same as the previous enamel filler. I only applied 1 coat
> of primer, then sanded it lightly with 180 grit on my
> random/orbital. The paint sanded really well, much like enamel
> primer. Between finishing coats, I hand sanded lightly with "wet &
> dry", again very similar to enamel. Masking tape applied as firmly
> as I could by hand for boot top etc has not pulled away any of the
> paint. I always pull the tape off as soon as I finish
> painting...never leave it on for longer.
> These newer latex paints are a very different animal to earlier
> versions, reflecting the huge amount of work that has gone into
> development. All in all I am very happy so far, but I guess the
> final test, sun, salt and time has yet to come.
> DonB
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Glen Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> >
> > I'm in the final countdown for getting my Micro finished (down to
> the
> > last 5 items, so maybe this week) and am contemplating the painting
> > process. You guys have pretty much convinced me of using a high
> quality
> > latex paint, and a Latex primer like Kilz 2.
> >
> > By the way, the boat is BS1088 marine mahogony, coated and
> fiberglassed
> > with Raka epoxy and 3.5 oz cloth.
> >
> > Question: Does this primer provide any build up for filling small
> > scratches? Is there another product I can paint on and sand off to
> fill
> > small imperfections (besides epoxy/microlite filler)? Or does the
> latex
> > paint fill small imperfections by itself (it is thicker than some
> of the
> > other finishes, like LPU, etc).
> >
> > Any advice would be appreciated, as well as general boat/latex
> painting
> > tips.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Glen Gibson
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:36:51 -0800
> From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: Sharpie Pounding
>
> Use plastic screen and it probably won't scrape.
>
> HJ
>
> >
> > He has mentioned somewhere that WW I torpedo boats used a
> > window screen two or three inches in front of their glass
> > windscreens in order to reduce the likelihood of the glass being
> > shattered by wave action. Screen might work to reduce sharpie
> > slap. I have in mind a loose roll of plastic window screen big
> > enough in diameter to reach from the bow to an inch or two
> > underwater, and long enough to extend a little beyond the sides
> > of the boat and to make a place for light cord lashings to hold it
> > in place.
> >
>
> >
> > This may scrape the bottom paint a little, but what is a good
> > night's sleep worth to you?
> >
> > Vance
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 09:11:10 +0100 (BST)
> From: William Samson <willsamson@...>
> Subject: An article to salivate over . . .
>
> Hi,
>
> Pleasant surprise this morning. Postman arrived with
> the new Water Craft mag.
>
> Big article (5 pages) on Micro by Peter de Boer, with
> mouth-watering pics of his gold-plater Micro. Not for
> him luan underlayment - Oh no! - Genuine Bruynzeel
> ply! Brass portholes, too. Fantastic finish with
> more than the usual amount of brightwork.
>
> I wonder if this is the first Bolger boat ever to be
> built out of Bruynzeel?
>
> Apart from the wonderful pics, there's a good honest
> appraisal of how she performs.
>
> A 'must' for Micro enthusiasts!
>
> Bill Samson
>
> ____________________________________________________________
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> Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.co.uk
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>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas Edison