Re: [bolger] Re: Gypsy skeg
I thought the Cartopper was a shorter version of the Gypsy also until
seeing them next to each other. They are two different designs. The
Gypsy is a much higher performance boat. I had thought to put a skeg
on mine for rowing, but after reading the post by the gentleman
worrying about reducing the planning ability, I am thinking his drop
in skeg, rudder is the way to go. It is possible that Mr. Bolger was
thinking along the same lines, who knows? Fun to speculate however,
that's one of the things this list is for.
HJ
seeing them next to each other. They are two different designs. The
Gypsy is a much higher performance boat. I had thought to put a skeg
on mine for rowing, but after reading the post by the gentleman
worrying about reducing the planning ability, I am thinking his drop
in skeg, rudder is the way to go. It is possible that Mr. Bolger was
thinking along the same lines, who knows? Fun to speculate however,
that's one of the things this list is for.
HJ
>
> OTOH, I really think the lack of a skeg and consequent lack of
> directional stability under oars was a design error on PCB's part.
> Almost every other small rowing-sailing boat has a skeg, including
> Bolger's other designs. Gypsy was one of his very first taped-seam
> five-panel hulls; all the other ones that I know of, including
> Cartopper, (which is basically a shorter version of the same hull),
> have skegs. The skeg costs little or nothing, as far as I can tell
> it detracts in no way from the perfomance of the boat, and it
> entirely corrects an annoying problem.
>
Yes, absolutely. However, if you're just rowing , rather than
getting home from a sail after the wind dies, it's nice to remove the
rudder entirely. The Gypsy's a really nice pulling boat for one
person with all the sailing stuff removed (Remember John Garber's
long trip down the coast of Maine in the first one). You sure don't
want the whole blade dragging in the water if you're rowing very far;
the difference in resistance is very obvious. Of course, you can
pull it up almost all the way up and lash it; that's what I did
before I added the skeg.
OTOH, I really think the lack of a skeg and consequent lack of
directional stability under oars was a design error on PCB's part.
Almost every other small rowing-sailing boat has a skeg, including
Bolger's other designs. Gypsy was one of his very first taped-seam
five-panel hulls; all the other ones that I know of, including
Cartopper, (which is basically a shorter version of the same hull),
have skegs. The skeg costs little or nothing, as far as I can tell
it detracts in no way from the perfomance of the boat, and it
entirely corrects an annoying problem.
getting home from a sail after the wind dies, it's nice to remove the
rudder entirely. The Gypsy's a really nice pulling boat for one
person with all the sailing stuff removed (Remember John Garber's
long trip down the coast of Maine in the first one). You sure don't
want the whole blade dragging in the water if you're rowing very far;
the difference in resistance is very obvious. Of course, you can
pull it up almost all the way up and lash it; that's what I did
before I added the skeg.
OTOH, I really think the lack of a skeg and consequent lack of
directional stability under oars was a design error on PCB's part.
Almost every other small rowing-sailing boat has a skeg, including
Bolger's other designs. Gypsy was one of his very first taped-seam
five-panel hulls; all the other ones that I know of, including
Cartopper, (which is basically a shorter version of the same hull),
have skegs. The skeg costs little or nothing, as far as I can tell
it detracts in no way from the perfomance of the boat, and it
entirely corrects an annoying problem.
--- In bolger@y..., tcomrie@y... wrote:
> Wouldn't it work to just lash the rudder in the center?
I have a Gypsy and I was reluctant to add a skeg for fear that it would
reduce its ability to plane. My solution was to make a small tiller-less
rudder that extends about 2-3 inches into the water. It has a small
half-circle shaped plywood insert that rests against the transom and prevents
it from turning. I just put it in in place of the regular rudder when I want
to row. Works great.
reduce its ability to plane. My solution was to make a small tiller-less
rudder that extends about 2-3 inches into the water. It has a small
half-circle shaped plywood insert that rests against the transom and prevents
it from turning. I just put it in in place of the regular rudder when I want
to row. Works great.
Wouldn't it work to just lash the rudders in the center?
--- In bolger@y..., kwilson800@a... wrote:
> I used a bit cut from a nominal 1 x 6, about 18" long. It turned out
> around 5" deep at the aft end, the bottom edge running parallel to
> the waterline more or less, then rounded off back to the hull. Glued
> w/epoxy and screwed from the inside. Worked like a charm. I don't
> think the exact size or shape matters much, though, within reason.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., raymcquin@y... wrote:
> > What length and depth skeg have you used on Gypsy?
I used a bit cut from a nominal 1 x 6, about 18" long. It turned out
around 5" deep at the aft end, the bottom edge running parallel to
the waterline more or less, then rounded off back to the hull. Glued
w/epoxy and screwed from the inside. Worked like a charm. I don't
think the exact size or shape matters much, though, within reason.
around 5" deep at the aft end, the bottom edge running parallel to
the waterline more or less, then rounded off back to the hull. Glued
w/epoxy and screwed from the inside. Worked like a charm. I don't
think the exact size or shape matters much, though, within reason.
--- In bolger@y..., raymcquin@y... wrote:
> What length and depth skeg have you used on Gypsy?
> What length and depth skeg have you used on Gypsy?Hi Ray --
Actually, I haven't done it yet -- just noted the need for it.
I've been hammering away trying to finish this Michalak Mayfly that I
started as a project with my young nephews. . . .
I'm going to try a 1X4 board, cut and whittled to 24" long, 3"
high at the aft end. That's fairly small, but the boat pivots so
easily I'm guessing it won't take much force back there to keep it
running straight. I might get it done in two weeks or so, and I'll
report on its performance.
All best,
Garth
Garth,
What length and depth skeg have you used on Gypsy?
Thanks,
Ray
To the post that wondered about rowing Gypsy -- she's great under
oars -- really flies lightly along -- but you need to add a skeg,
otherwise you spend too much energy making little corrections to keep
her on track. All that rocker and the flared bilges -- she is quite
happy to turn circles on a dime.
What length and depth skeg have you used on Gypsy?
Thanks,
Ray
To the post that wondered about rowing Gypsy -- she's great under
oars -- really flies lightly along -- but you need to add a skeg,
otherwise you spend too much energy making little corrections to keep
her on track. All that rocker and the flared bilges -- she is quite
happy to turn circles on a dime.