Re: Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
Comments below:
--- In bolger@y..., ravenous@g... wrote:
> Frank,
> what weight glass cloth did you use on the outside of the hull?
Did
> you glass right over the chine logs in one piece?
I built the boat pretty much exactly as Jim MIchalak specifies, with
a few minor exceptions. I *think* I used 6oz cloth. I only glassed
the bottom on the outside. First I did the bottom with the cloth,
covering the chine logs completely on the sides (but not going any
farther down the sides (the hull was upside down of course). Then I
laid 3" tape on the corners of the chine logs. Finally, I added some
extra layers of tape in the bow grounding area.
> Did you epoxy coat the inside or the deck?
Nope. I just used oil based house paint and primer, but I will use
Latex from now on. Of course I religiously knocked out all of the
little knot hole losse pieces and filled them with thickened epoxy.
> I'm starting the AF4 and
> am thinking about a light glass inside and out after completing the
> hull to avoid the checking of cheap BC Pine ply.
>
> Have you experienced any checking yet with the Fir?
I used AC Fir from the local yard. Yes I have had some checking, but
it doesn't bother me. I used a plywood pirogue for many years (in
South Lousiana) that was checked all over and never had any
problems. One bulkhead, however seems to be made of a defective 1/4"
sheet which has a 4" bubble de-laminated. I think I'll have to
replace the bulkhead in a year or so.
I do keep the boat in a garage, but may put her outside soon. We will
see what happens. I made a little A-frame to drape a tarp over her
open areas.
> Any thoughts appreciated. I've bookmarked your site. It is very
> informative and helpful. Beautiful boat.
>
>
>
> > I built my 16' AF3 Sharpie, "Cream Cheese," for about $1,800 not
> > including trailer and gratuitous marine supplies, but I bet I
could
> > do it for $1200 if I felt like it.
> >
> >http://www.geocities.com/sanmi
> >
> > Frank
Thank you so much, I just sent him another email. I'll keep the group
posted. - Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From:stephen@...[mailto:stephen@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 6:15 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie
Hi Bill: I don't know which address you tried, but I've seen two e-
mail addresses for Wes on various web pages relating to his sharpie.
The addresses are as follows:
wgardner@...
wesgardner@...
Good luck,
Stephen Paskey
posted. - Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From:stephen@...[mailto:stephen@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 6:15 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie
Hi Bill: I don't know which address you tried, but I've seen two e-
mail addresses for Wes on various web pages relating to his sharpie.
The addresses are as follows:
wgardner@...
wesgardner@...
Good luck,
Stephen Paskey
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to get
information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but no
reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets?
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
It only took about a year of intermittent use to wear the epoxy off the floor of the cockpit of my
Lily. I sanded a little and put glass and epoxy on to improve the wear. Clyde
ravenous@...wrote:
Lily. I sanded a little and put glass and epoxy on to improve the wear. Clyde
ravenous@...wrote:
> Frank,
> what weight glass cloth did you use on the outside of the hull? Did
> you glass right over the chine logs in one piece?
> Did you epoxy coat the inside or the deck? I'm starting the AF4 and
Frank,
what weight glass cloth did you use on the outside of the hull? Did
you glass right over the chine logs in one piece?
Did you epoxy coat the inside or the deck? I'm starting the AF4 and
am thinking about a light glass inside and out after completing the
hull to avoid the checking of cheap BC Pine ply.
Have you experienced any checking yet with the Fir?
Any thoughts appreciated. I've bookmarked your site. It is very
informative and helpful. Beautiful boat.
what weight glass cloth did you use on the outside of the hull? Did
you glass right over the chine logs in one piece?
Did you epoxy coat the inside or the deck? I'm starting the AF4 and
am thinking about a light glass inside and out after completing the
hull to avoid the checking of cheap BC Pine ply.
Have you experienced any checking yet with the Fir?
Any thoughts appreciated. I've bookmarked your site. It is very
informative and helpful. Beautiful boat.
> I built my 16' AF3 Sharpie, "Cream Cheese," for about $1,800 not
> including trailer and gratuitous marine supplies, but I bet I could
> do it for $1200 if I felt like it.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/sanmi
>
> Frank
Hi Bill: I don't know which address you tried, but I've seen two e-
mail addresses for Wes on various web pages relating to his sharpie.
The addresses are as follows:
wgardner@...
wesgardner@...
Good luck,
Stephen Paskey
mail addresses for Wes on various web pages relating to his sharpie.
The addresses are as follows:
wgardner@...
wesgardner@...
Good luck,
Stephen Paskey
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to get
information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but no
reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets?
Bill,
I built my 16' AF3 Sharpie, "Cream Cheese," for about $1,800 not
including trailer and gratuitous marine supplies, but I bet I could
do it for $1200 if I felt like it.
http://www.geocities.com/sanmi
Frank
I built my 16' AF3 Sharpie, "Cream Cheese," for about $1,800 not
including trailer and gratuitous marine supplies, but I bet I could
do it for $1200 if I felt like it.
http://www.geocities.com/sanmi
Frank
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to get
> information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but
no
> reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets? My reasoning is that the
boat
> really looks great, is a little roomier, and should not be all that
much
> more to build. Slightly more trailer, but I'd need to have a
trailer
> with a winch for a 15-16' boat anyway, so that was not a big
factor. I
> will have to come up with scantlings, frame locations, etc. out of
Ruel
> Parker's book. I think I've almost talked myself into it. Can
anyone
> help me with an estimate of costs?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stephen@p... [mailto:stephen@p...]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:21 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
>
>
> Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
> bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
> Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
> American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
> construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no
jigs
> or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
>
> The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
>
> Stephen Paskey
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or
flattie,
> with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too
off
> topic? sorry, and TIA
> > Bill Kreamer
>
>
>
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> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
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> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You might take a look at John Harris's CLC John's Sharpie. Clyde
pateson@...wrote:
pateson@...wrote:
> Suppose you already have this page.
>http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/wessharpie.htm
Suppose you already have this page.
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/wessharpie.htm
Pat
http://web.wt.net/~tbertw/wessharpie.htm
Pat
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to get
> information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but
no
> reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets? My reasoning is that the
boat
> really looks great, is a little roomier, and should not be all that
much
> more to build. Slightly more trailer, but I'd need to have a
trailer
> with a winch for a 15-16' boat anyway, so that was not a big
factor. I
> will have to come up with scantlings, frame locations, etc. out of
Ruel
> Parker's book. I think I've almost talked myself into it. Can
anyone
> help me with an estimate of costs?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: stephen@p... [mailto:stephen@p...]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:21 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
>
>
> Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
> bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
> Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
> American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
> construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no
jigs
> or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
>
> The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
>
> Stephen Paskey
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or
flattie,
> with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too
off
> topic? sorry, and TIA
> > Bill Kreamer
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
> Start here...
>
> Height:
> 345678 ft 01234567891011in
>
> Weight:
> lbs. kg.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
I'll take a stab at it. I've estimated 12' Bobcat at $2000. plus or
minus using good materials. Spartina at $3000 plus or minus. At 18'
your sharpy adds a few more sheets of plywood. Think $3500 for
starters but do a quantity take off from the original plans before you
jump in.
Bob Chamberland
> Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to getno
> information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but
> reply yet. Slightly more trailer, but I'd need to have atrailer
> with a winch for a 15-16' boat anyway,Hi Bill,
> help me with an estimate of costs?
I'll take a stab at it. I've estimated 12' Bobcat at $2000. plus or
minus using good materials. Spartina at $3000 plus or minus. At 18'
your sharpy adds a few more sheets of plywood. Think $3500 for
starters but do a quantity take off from the original plans before you
jump in.
Bob Chamberland
Thanks to all who gave me information. I'm now trying to get
information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but no
reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets? My reasoning is that the boat
really looks great, is a little roomier, and should not be all that much
more to build. Slightly more trailer, but I'd need to have a trailer
with a winch for a 15-16' boat anyway, so that was not a big factor. I
will have to come up with scantlings, frame locations, etc. out of Ruel
Parker's book. I think I've almost talked myself into it. Can anyone
help me with an estimate of costs?
-----Original Message-----
From:stephen@...[mailto:stephen@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:21 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no jigs
or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
Stephen Paskey
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
information on Wes Gardner's 18' sharpie. I sent him an email but no
reply yet. Has anyone got his offsets? My reasoning is that the boat
really looks great, is a little roomier, and should not be all that much
more to build. Slightly more trailer, but I'd need to have a trailer
with a winch for a 15-16' boat anyway, so that was not a big factor. I
will have to come up with scantlings, frame locations, etc. out of Ruel
Parker's book. I think I've almost talked myself into it. Can anyone
help me with an estimate of costs?
-----Original Message-----
From:stephen@...[mailto:stephen@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:21 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no jigs
or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
Stephen Paskey
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie,
with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off
topic? sorry, and TIA
> Bill Kreamer
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Start here...
Height:
345678 ft 01234567891011in
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Bolger rules!!!
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- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
18' to 25'+.
Bob Chamberland
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'centerboard/leeboard
> taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare tothe
> sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, andTIA
> Bill KreamerDisregarding the taped seams, consider Norwalk Island Sharpies from
>
> Hi Bill,
18' to 25'+.
Bob Chamberland
Bill --
If you're willing to look at boats under 16', definitely take a
gander at Jim Michalak's Mayfly. It's a 14' classic flatiron hull
with a big open 8' long cockpit, flotation chambers (stowage) fore
and aft, pivoting leeboard, 75 sq. foot balanced lugsail. I'm in the
midst of building one and get more enamoured of it daily. It will
easily handle an adult and two kids, or two adults.
I don't have the URL for that page of Michalak's site on hand, but if
you're curious I'll post it. I should also have some good pix soon.
All best,
Garth
If you're willing to look at boats under 16', definitely take a
gander at Jim Michalak's Mayfly. It's a 14' classic flatiron hull
with a big open 8' long cockpit, flotation chambers (stowage) fore
and aft, pivoting leeboard, 75 sq. foot balanced lugsail. I'm in the
midst of building one and get more enamoured of it daily. It will
easily handle an adult and two kids, or two adults.
I don't have the URL for that page of Michalak's site on hand, but if
you're curious I'll post it. I should also have some good pix soon.
All best,
Garth
--- In bolger@y..., r_harris22222@y... wrote:
> This isn't quite what you describe, but have you thought about
> Stevenson's Skipjack? It is significantly smaller, at 13'10", but
it > does have a good look, some flare, and a flat bottom on a
shallow full length keel. The plans are built around hard-chine
construction, rather than taped seam.
>
>
> >--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > Open boat, please. For a couple of adults, or adult and two
kids. Just for around the harbor, or a short shot into the bay. I
will try a cat ketch rig with a center step for breezier weather or
one-kid sailing. -
> > Bill K.
This isn't quite what you describe, but have you thought about
Stevenson's Skipjack? It is significantly smaller, at 13'10", but it
does have a good look, some flare, and a flat bottom on a shallow
full length keel. The plans are built around hard-chine construction,
rather than taped seam.
http://www.stevproj.com/FastSailrs.html
Stevenson's Skipjack? It is significantly smaller, at 13'10", but it
does have a good look, some flare, and a flat bottom on a shallow
full length keel. The plans are built around hard-chine construction,
rather than taped seam.
http://www.stevproj.com/FastSailrs.html
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Open boat, please. For a couple of adults, or adult and two kids.
Just
> for around the harbor, or a short shot into the bay. I will try a
cat
> ketch rig with a center step for breezier weather or one-kid
sailing. -
> Bill K.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@d...]
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 6:21 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
>
>
> Cuddy, or open, Bill?
>
> Chuck
>
> > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard
> > taped seam plywood, transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare
to
> the
> > sides and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and
TIA
> > Bill Kreamer
> >
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
> You can, too! Start here...
>
> Height:
> 345678 ft 01234567891011in
>
> Weight:
> lbs. kg.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A Carnell $200 sailboat is a good choice. There is one going together
in my backyard right now.
It is based on Bolger's Featherwind. It is fairly forgiving to
mistakes (easy to fix screwups).
I made some modification to mine. I used a rabbeted hardwood stem
and a 1" plywood transom (in case I put a trolling motor on it), and
put stiffening rails on the bottom, the inwale and outwales are about
3 inches total so I can go frameless. I mostly used 3M 5300 and some
epoxy. I like the 5300 better than epoxy to work with.
in my backyard right now.
It is based on Bolger's Featherwind. It is fairly forgiving to
mistakes (easy to fix screwups).
I made some modification to mine. I used a rabbeted hardwood stem
and a 1" plywood transom (in case I put a trolling motor on it), and
put stiffening rails on the bottom, the inwale and outwales are about
3 inches total so I can go frameless. I mostly used 3M 5300 and some
epoxy. I like the 5300 better than epoxy to work with.
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
centerboard/leeboard
> taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to
the
> sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and
TIA
> Bill Kreamer
>
Ah, here's another which more closely fits your description, also
from Graham Byrnes, the Bay River Skiff. This is a genuine flat-
bottom sharpie. See:
http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/brs.htm
from Graham Byrnes, the Bay River Skiff. This is a genuine flat-
bottom sharpie. See:
http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/brs.htm
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood
> transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to the
> sides and and a pretty sheer?
Seems like a Stambaugh glue and screw design would be easy to change
to stitch and glue. I think there are a couple in the desired size
range in his book, "Good Skiffs".
There are also two suitable designs in "The Sharpie Book", but the
info there is pretty sketchy, and it seems like you'd want more. One
of them is (I think) a smaller version of the HC skiff mentioned
below. The other is almost half dory, half skiff, with lots of flare.
I think it's adapted from a Chappelle drawing of a boat used on the
Mississippi (which I can't spell without recalling a horrible corny
song called "Mississippi Dip").
These sharpies are pretty simple, so I'm not sure it's necessary to
have all the info. I think the above designs are prettier than the
$200 sailboat, but if we can take Bolger's writing as gospel, then
performance is probably not as good because they have less rocker.
Michalak's Woobo skiff looks like a sharpie or flattie, but it does
have a couple of extra panels on it. I think there are a couple of
other Michalak designs that would qualify as sharpies/flatiron skiffs
if you left off the deck, cuddy, or whatever.
I don't think anyone's mentioned the Sharpie 14 at bateau.com
I don't have any experience with any of these designs, I'm only
pointing out their existence.
to stitch and glue. I think there are a couple in the desired size
range in his book, "Good Skiffs".
There are also two suitable designs in "The Sharpie Book", but the
info there is pretty sketchy, and it seems like you'd want more. One
of them is (I think) a smaller version of the HC skiff mentioned
below. The other is almost half dory, half skiff, with lots of flare.
I think it's adapted from a Chappelle drawing of a boat used on the
Mississippi (which I can't spell without recalling a horrible corny
song called "Mississippi Dip").
These sharpies are pretty simple, so I'm not sure it's necessary to
have all the info. I think the above designs are prettier than the
$200 sailboat, but if we can take Bolger's writing as gospel, then
performance is probably not as good because they have less rocker.
Michalak's Woobo skiff looks like a sharpie or flattie, but it does
have a couple of extra panels on it. I think there are a couple of
other Michalak designs that would qualify as sharpies/flatiron skiffs
if you left off the deck, cuddy, or whatever.
I don't think anyone's mentioned the Sharpie 14 at bateau.com
I don't have any experience with any of these designs, I'm only
pointing out their existence.
--- In bolger@y..., stephen@p... wrote:
> Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
> bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
> Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
> American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
> construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no jigs
> or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
>
> The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
>
> Stephen Paskey
>
>http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie,
> with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too
off
> topic? sorry, and TIA
> > Bill Kreamer
In a message dated 9/4/01 6:46:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
PseudoDion3@...writes:
"Low-Resistance Boats", Jones can hardly speak well enough about the design.
He also indicates that he built his first example of this boat with
conventional chine "logs", as he distrusted "taped-seam" construction at the
time. The designer, Joseph C. Dobler, has passed away and evidently left his
drawings in some disarray. Mr. Jones has re-drawn the plans with the approval
of Mr. Dobler's estate and made them available.
I recently purchased a set of plans from him not long ago, but I find the
plans rather intimidating. This is not the kind of "stitch-and-glue" design
where you cut out panels to shape and bend them over a couple of points for
assembly. The 5 sheets of plans and accompanying three sheets of
supplementary material do not include a standard offset table, so I don't see
how the design could be lofted for "conventional" construction. Although
there is no indication of it on the sheets of plans, the fifth paragraph on
the second page of supplementary materials notes that the topsides are "more
than 16" (sic) long". (He means more that 16' long - i.e. the expansions
shown will not meet!) His recommendation is that the two panels (per side) be
"glued and screwed" to the "stem" and stern (i.e. the transom) and then an
"approximately 12"X14" piece" fitted amidships. As no stem is indicated on
the drawings, one can only assume that "stem-less" construction (i.e.
stitch-and-glue + fiberglass tape + fillets) is intended.
All in all, perhaps not a design that would give an experienced boatbuilder
any pause, but enough to discourage me.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
PseudoDion3@...writes:
> You also mightThe "Dobler 16" looks like a very nice all-around boat. In his book
> consider Tom Jones "Dobler 16". It is a taped seam construction boat
> with dagger board. The address for his website
> ishttp://www.jonesboats.com/dobler16.html
>
>
"Low-Resistance Boats", Jones can hardly speak well enough about the design.
He also indicates that he built his first example of this boat with
conventional chine "logs", as he distrusted "taped-seam" construction at the
time. The designer, Joseph C. Dobler, has passed away and evidently left his
drawings in some disarray. Mr. Jones has re-drawn the plans with the approval
of Mr. Dobler's estate and made them available.
I recently purchased a set of plans from him not long ago, but I find the
plans rather intimidating. This is not the kind of "stitch-and-glue" design
where you cut out panels to shape and bend them over a couple of points for
assembly. The 5 sheets of plans and accompanying three sheets of
supplementary material do not include a standard offset table, so I don't see
how the design could be lofted for "conventional" construction. Although
there is no indication of it on the sheets of plans, the fifth paragraph on
the second page of supplementary materials notes that the topsides are "more
than 16" (sic) long". (He means more that 16' long - i.e. the expansions
shown will not meet!) His recommendation is that the two panels (per side) be
"glued and screwed" to the "stem" and stern (i.e. the transom) and then an
"approximately 12"X14" piece" fitted amidships. As no stem is indicated on
the drawings, one can only assume that "stem-less" construction (i.e.
stitch-and-glue + fiberglass tape + fillets) is intended.
All in all, perhaps not a design that would give an experienced boatbuilder
any pause, but enough to discourage me.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bill: One more suggestion. Jim Michalak has an 18-foot flat-
bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no jigs
or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
Stephen Paskey
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
bottomed sharpie design called the HC Skiff (HC for Howard
Chapelle). Jim used the offsets from a drawing in Chapelle's
American Small Sailing Craft, and adapted the boat for plywood
construction with prefabricated parts and glue and nails -- no jigs
or lofting required. The sail is a sprit-boomed leg-o-mutton.
The link for the index to Jim's designs is below.
Stephen Paskey
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/designs.htm
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
centerboard/leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie,
with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off
topic? sorry, and TIA
> Bill Kreamer
There are a couple of other options. Carnell's $200 sailboat. It is
15 1/2 ft. long. It is not taped seam construction. You also might
consider Tom Jones "Dobler 16". It is a taped seam construction boat
with dagger board. The address for his website
ishttp://www.jonesboats.com/dobler16.html
Dennis Marshall, Grand Rapids, MI
15 1/2 ft. long. It is not taped seam construction. You also might
consider Tom Jones "Dobler 16". It is a taped seam construction boat
with dagger board. The address for his website
ishttp://www.jonesboats.com/dobler16.html
Dennis Marshall, Grand Rapids, MI
--- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
>
> Karl Stambaugh's boats athttp://www.cmdboats.com/fill the need,
but
> are "glue and screw" rather than taped seam. You can see a nice
> picture of his Windward 17 in the photo gallery at
> www.seaislandboatworks.com.
>
> Peter
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> > From you initial descripion, Steve Redmond's 16' WISP
> > popped into my head.
> >http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/images/wisp2a.jpg
> >http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/Past%20Projects.htm
> > There was some discussion a couple months back as to
> > his whereabouts.
> > Very nice lines in photos.
> > Anybody know.
> >
> > Pat Patteson
> > Molalla, Oregon
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> > centerboard/leeboard
> > > taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare
to
> > the
> > > sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry,
> and
> > TIA
> > > Bill Kreamer
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: ellengaest@b... [mailto:ellengaest@b...]
> > > Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:41 PM
> > > To: bolger@y...
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Paradox--Opinions Please
> > >
> > > Hmmmm,
> > > You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do
explain
> > this
> > > keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully
> without
> > > too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative
> ease.This
> > > is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost
> > primitive
> > > in excecution.
> > > If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just
> about
> > > anyone can.
> > > You can check out how I did mine here:
> > >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
> > >
> > > However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions
are
> > > good!
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious
little
> > > high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the
> shores
> > > of the St.Lawrence...........
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks
> from a
> > > > Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead
> poured
> > by
> > > > a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want
to
> > > > equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the
> pour
> > > > yourself.
> > > >
> > > > If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this
> > case,
> > > > but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a
firm
> > > that
> > > > specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
> > > > installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead
> slab
> > of
> > > > the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and
> cutting
> > out
> > > > the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
> > > >
> > > > A third approach, available here in New England and probably
in
> > most
> > > > coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat
> > shop.
> > > >
> > > > Check out your phone book.
> > > >
> > > > Peter
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > Lose 20 lbs by November 5th!
> > >
> >
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
> > 05
> > > 065791:HM/A=776676/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?
> > ts=1;2;217;
> > > 107_221_105_264>
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all
you
> > like
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester,
> > MA,
> > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service
> > > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Two possibilities, both taped seam construction: The Core Sound 17
from B&B Yacht design - very good people, not as well known as they
should be.
http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/cs17.htm
Or "John's Sharpie" from Chesapeake Light Craft, search on "sharpie"
at:http://www.clcboats.com/
from B&B Yacht design - very good people, not as well known as they
should be.
http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com/cs17.htm
Or "John's Sharpie" from Chesapeake Light Craft, search on "sharpie"
at:http://www.clcboats.com/
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard /leeboard taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie
> with some flare to the sides and and a pretty sheer?
Karl Stambaugh's boats athttp://www.cmdboats.com/fill the need, but
are "glue and screw" rather than taped seam. You can see a nice
picture of his Windward 17 in the photo gallery at
www.seaislandboatworks.com.
Peter
are "glue and screw" rather than taped seam. You can see a nice
picture of his Windward 17 in the photo gallery at
www.seaislandboatworks.com.
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> From you initial descripion, Steve Redmond's 16' WISP
> popped into my head.
>http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/images/wisp2a.jpg
>http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/Past%20Projects.htm
> There was some discussion a couple months back as to
> his whereabouts.
> Very nice lines in photos.
> Anybody know.
>
> Pat Patteson
> Molalla, Oregon
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> > Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
> centerboard/leeboard
> > taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to
> the
> > sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry,
and
> TIA
> > Bill Kreamer
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ellengaest@b... [mailto:ellengaest@b...]
> > Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:41 PM
> > To: bolger@y...
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Paradox--Opinions Please
> >
> > Hmmmm,
> > You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain
> this
> > keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully
without
> > too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative
ease.This
> > is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost
> primitive
> > in excecution.
> > If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just
about
> > anyone can.
> > You can check out how I did mine here:
> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
> >
> > However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
> > good!
> > Sincerely,
> > Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
> > high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the
shores
> > of the St.Lawrence...........
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
> > >
> > > I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks
from a
> > > Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead
poured
> by
> > > a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
> > > equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the
pour
> > > yourself.
> > >
> > > If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this
> case,
> > > but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm
> > that
> > > specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
> > > installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead
slab
> of
> > > the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and
cutting
> out
> > > the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
> > >
> > > A third approach, available here in New England and probably in
> most
> > > coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat
> shop.
> > >
> > > Check out your phone book.
> > >
> > > Peter
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > Lose 20 lbs by November 5th!
> >
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
> 05
> > 065791:HM/A=776676/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?
> ts=1;2;217;
> > 107_221_105_264>
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
> like
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester,
> MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
From you initial descripion, Steve Redmond's 16' WISP
popped into my head.
http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/images/wisp2a.jpg
http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/Past%20Projects.htm
There was some discussion a couple months back as to
his whereabouts.
Very nice lines in photos.
Anybody know.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
popped into my head.
http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/images/wisp2a.jpg
http://www.cullisonsmallcraft.com/Past%20Projects.htm
There was some discussion a couple months back as to
his whereabouts.
Very nice lines in photos.
Anybody know.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@m...> wrote:
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15' or 16'
centerboard/leeboard
> taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to
the
> sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and
TIA
> Bill Kreamer
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ellengaest@b... [mailto:ellengaest@b...]
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:41 PM
> To: bolger@y...
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Paradox--Opinions Please
>
> Hmmmm,
> You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain
this
> keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully without
> too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative ease.This
> is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost
primitive
> in excecution.
> If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just about
> anyone can.
> You can check out how I did mine here:
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
>
> However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
> good!
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
> high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the shores
> of the St.Lawrence...........
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
> >
> > I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks from a
> > Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead poured
by
> > a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
> > equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the pour
> > yourself.
> >
> > If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this
case,
> > but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm
> that
> > specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
> > installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead slab
of
> > the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and cutting
out
> > the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
> >
> > A third approach, available here in New England and probably in
most
> > coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat
shop.
> >
> > Check out your phone book.
> >
> > Peter
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> Lose 20 lbs by November 5th!
>
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17
05
> 065791:HM/A=776676/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?
ts=1;2;217;
> 107_221_105_264>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you
like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Open boat, please. For a couple of adults, or adult and two kids. Just
for around the harbor, or a short shot into the bay. I will try a cat
ketch rig with a center step for breezier weather or one-kid sailing. -
Bill K.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 6:21 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
Cuddy, or open, Bill?
Chuck
ADVERTISEMENT
You can, too! Start here...
Height:
345678 ft 01234567891011in
Weight:
lbs. kg.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
for around the harbor, or a short shot into the bay. I will try a cat
ketch rig with a center step for breezier weather or one-kid sailing. -
Bill K.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 6:21 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Looking for a 16' sharpie/flattie
Cuddy, or open, Bill?
Chuck
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15 or 16centerboard/leeboard
> taped seam plywood, transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare tothe
> sides and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and TIAYahoo! Groups Sponsor
> Bill Kreamer
>
>
ADVERTISEMENT
You can, too! Start here...
Height:
345678 ft 01234567891011in
Weight:
lbs. kg.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Take a look at Stevensons 14 ft Weekender or 21 ft Vacationer. Flat bottoms
with flared sides loosely based on sharpies and friendship sloops.
http://www.stevproj.com/
Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
with flared sides loosely based on sharpies and friendship sloops.
http://www.stevproj.com/
Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Cuddy, or open, Bill?
Chuck
Chuck
> Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15 or 16 centerboard/leeboard
> taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to the
> sides and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and TIA
> Bill Kreamer
>
>
Can anyone connect me with plans for a 15 or 16 centerboard/leeboard
taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to the
sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and TIA
Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From:ellengaest@...[mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:41 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Paradox--Opinions Please
Hmmmm,
You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain this
keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully without
too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative ease.This
is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost primitive
in excecution.
If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just about
anyone can.
You can check out how I did mine here:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
good!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the shores
of the St.Lawrence...........
taped seam plywood transom sharpie or flattie, with some flare to the
sides and and a pretty sheer? Is this too off topic? sorry, and TIA
Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From:ellengaest@...[mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 5:41 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Paradox--Opinions Please
Hmmmm,
You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain this
keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully without
too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative ease.This
is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost primitive
in excecution.
If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just about
anyone can.
You can check out how I did mine here:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
good!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the shores
of the St.Lawrence...........
--- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
>
> I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks from a
> Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead poured by
> a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
> equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the pour
> yourself.
>
> If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this case,
> but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm
that
> specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
> installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead slab of
> the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and cutting out
> the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
>
> A third approach, available here in New England and probably in most
> coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat shop.
>
> Check out your phone book.
>
> Peter
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Lose 20 lbs by November 5th!
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=210544.1579876.3135161.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=776676/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/adspace.ts?ts=1;2;217;
107_221_105_264>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hmmmm,
You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain this
keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully without
too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative ease.This
is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost primitive
in excecution.
If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just about
anyone can.
You can check out how I did mine here:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
good!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the shores
of the St.Lawrence...........
You can rent the tools,cheap.There are books that do explain this
keel pouring process,step by step.And,if you work carefully without
too many distractions it can be accomplished with relative ease.This
is not high tech stuff like computers but very basic,almost primitive
in excecution.
If a complete klutz like myself can do it,hell...... just about
anyone can.
You can check out how I did mine here:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/micro/index.htm
However,if it still spooks you,then Peter V's suggestions are
good!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,all thumbs,toes and a few digits but precious little
high tech skills especially with damned computers,here on the shores
of the St.Lawrence...........
--- In bolger@y..., pvanderw@o... wrote:
>
> I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks from a
> Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead poured by
> a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
> equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the pour
> yourself.
>
> If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this case,
> but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm
that
> specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
> installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead slab of
> the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and cutting out
> the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
>
> A third approach, available here in New England and probably in most
> coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat shop.
>
> Check out your phone book.
>
> Peter
I remember reading a post just within the last couple weeks from a
Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead poured by
a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the pour
yourself.
If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this case,
but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm that
specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead slab of
the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and cutting out
the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
A third approach, available here in New England and probably in most
coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat shop.
Check out your phone book.
Peter
Micro builder who had built his keel mold and had the lead poured by
a pro. It seems a very good approach to me, if you don't want to
equip yourself (with tools, knowledge and courage) to do the pour
yourself.
If I remember correctly, it was a scrap metals dealer in this case,
but I have also seen posts citing a friendly reception at a firm that
specialized in lead shielding for x-ray (and other medical)
installations. I think it may also be possible to buy a lead slab of
the right thickness from the medical shielding folds and cutting out
the shape you want, then selling the scrap back to them.
A third approach, available here in New England and probably in most
coastal areas, is to have the ballast installed by a pro boat shop.
Check out your phone book.
Peter
I think the problem would be....you would need to make the keel
deeper and perhaps thicker to get the same weight at a similar depth
to the standard keel, otherwise she will be tender, maybe dangerous.
DonB
deeper and perhaps thicker to get the same weight at a similar depth
to the standard keel, otherwise she will be tender, maybe dangerous.
DonB
> Hi All -Micro. I
> I have to admit that I'm also on the side of Bolger's
> do have one question though. I think the lead keel may scare awaysome home
> builders so has anyone ever looked into the possibility of buildingthe box
> keel then filling it with cement along with sash weights, boilerpunchings,
> pcs. of lead from old ballest weights etc. I wonder what PhilBolger would
> think of this simplyfication.
>
> Aloha - Jack Spoering
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I don't know what PCB would think about a leeboard and internal ballast on
Micro, but Jim Michalak seems to think it will work:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2001/0115/index.htm#Musicbox3
Chuck
Micro, but Jim Michalak seems to think it will work:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/2001/0115/index.htm#Musicbox3
Chuck
><snip> I wonder what Phil
>
> Hi All -
> Bolger would
> think of this simplification.
>
> Aloha - Jack Spoering
>
>
>
>
Hi All -
I have to admit that I'm also on the side of Bolger's Micro. I
do have one question though. I think the lead keel may scare away some home
builders so has anyone ever looked into the possibility of building the box
keel then filling it with cement along with sash weights, boiler punchings,
pcs. of lead from old ballest weights etc. I wonder what Phil Bolger would
think of this simplyfication.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have to admit that I'm also on the side of Bolger's Micro. I
do have one question though. I think the lead keel may scare away some home
builders so has anyone ever looked into the possibility of building the box
keel then filling it with cement along with sash weights, boiler punchings,
pcs. of lead from old ballest weights etc. I wonder what Phil Bolger would
think of this simplyfication.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On boats I have sailed, I've been in this situation and have made a
knot or two of progress by violently rocking the boat so the mainsail
acted like a scull working in air. In Tech dinghys you can go quite
fast just by roll tacking. Not something you want to have to cover a
mile with.
Other boats would make progress by sculling with the tiller.
knot or two of progress by violently rocking the boat so the mainsail
acted like a scull working in air. In Tech dinghys you can go quite
fast just by roll tacking. Not something you want to have to cover a
mile with.
Other boats would make progress by sculling with the tiller.
--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
snip In fact they were non existent.
> We were only about a 1/4 mile from shore, but it was a
> Very Hot July afternoon. My wife had only brought her
> bathing suit, so was exposed to the Hot sun.
> I was doing everything I could to make the boat move,
> to no avail.
--- In bolger@y..., "Glenn" <cricket137@y...> wrote:
ideas on our Micro vs Paradox. I went back and have been looking at
the study plans with all your thoughts in mind.
Thanks especially for the tip on the Paradox buiiding group.
This is something we have been planning for a long time. I'm 52 now
and this will most likely be my last and biggest boat. I was already
thinking about how paradox might be a little tender in a blow with a
four+ foot beam.
Regarding the comment on "little Cruisier", I did check on it, and
found out that building plans were never make for it.
Whichever one we build, I will be sure and fit it with Aux power.
Just to keep the little woman happy.
I think the scale has tilted a bit toward the Mico, but we are going
to make a list of good and bad points (from our point of view).
I've saved almost enough money to build either one. I like to be
able to buy everything from the start because I have to build on our
covered back padio with no side walls so I try to build fast.
Here's a "virtual" brewsky to eash one of you for your help!
Happy Sailing and building----Glenn and Vicky Powell
> Hi guys. I seek your help. I had a Micro in my future for someI
> coastal cruising and a little off shore sailing. Then about three
> weeks ago I discovered Paradox, a Matt Layden design 14'. I think
> have fallen in love the more I see of it. Not quite as much boatas
> Micro, but I think it would fit my wife and I perfectly.Hi guys. Glenn here. I want to thank all of you for your help and
>
> Please take a look at it at this site:
>
>http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm
>
ideas on our Micro vs Paradox. I went back and have been looking at
the study plans with all your thoughts in mind.
Thanks especially for the tip on the Paradox buiiding group.
This is something we have been planning for a long time. I'm 52 now
and this will most likely be my last and biggest boat. I was already
thinking about how paradox might be a little tender in a blow with a
four+ foot beam.
Regarding the comment on "little Cruisier", I did check on it, and
found out that building plans were never make for it.
Whichever one we build, I will be sure and fit it with Aux power.
Just to keep the little woman happy.
I think the scale has tilted a bit toward the Mico, but we are going
to make a list of good and bad points (from our point of view).
I've saved almost enough money to build either one. I like to be
able to buy everything from the start because I have to build on our
covered back padio with no side walls so I try to build fast.
Here's a "virtual" brewsky to eash one of you for your help!
Happy Sailing and building----Glenn and Vicky Powell
What a little tiny boat...Here are 10 reasons I like my Micro adn it
is not even done yet.
1. Kids in the neighborhood really have enjoyed pitching in. Future
boatbuilders? maybe
2. I had lunch in my Micro's cockpit while the kids play in the
cabin. No one was cramped.
3. We are camping out in the driveway next weekend. Kids in the
cabin. Dad in a sleeping bag on deck. My wife could sleep on deck
too, but she has more sense than us. It is real easy to put on a
boom tent. (note: this will be easier to do when the mast step is
finished)
4. Micro will steer itself with the mizzen.
5. My family of 4 will fit in the cockpit. Maximum beam is 6'.
Then look at how deep she is. It has an amazing amount of volume
only duplicated by a Cape Cod Catboat (of which Micro looks like in a
sort of strange way)
6. The rig is really very simple and easily understood.
7. The full keel is really very strong, don't let the ply/lead
thing fool you. The hardest part for me was actually glassing the
kee assembly. There is not much room under the boat right now.
8. People stop and say "wow, that really is starting to look great".
(note to self: big tip for the mailman this Christmas"
9. Micro is a BIG little boat. Wait til you see how much epoxy it
sucks up.
10. Micro is attractive. Kind of like the old VW bug.
is not even done yet.
1. Kids in the neighborhood really have enjoyed pitching in. Future
boatbuilders? maybe
2. I had lunch in my Micro's cockpit while the kids play in the
cabin. No one was cramped.
3. We are camping out in the driveway next weekend. Kids in the
cabin. Dad in a sleeping bag on deck. My wife could sleep on deck
too, but she has more sense than us. It is real easy to put on a
boom tent. (note: this will be easier to do when the mast step is
finished)
4. Micro will steer itself with the mizzen.
5. My family of 4 will fit in the cockpit. Maximum beam is 6'.
Then look at how deep she is. It has an amazing amount of volume
only duplicated by a Cape Cod Catboat (of which Micro looks like in a
sort of strange way)
6. The rig is really very simple and easily understood.
7. The full keel is really very strong, don't let the ply/lead
thing fool you. The hardest part for me was actually glassing the
kee assembly. There is not much room under the boat right now.
8. People stop and say "wow, that really is starting to look great".
(note to self: big tip for the mailman this Christmas"
9. Micro is a BIG little boat. Wait til you see how much epoxy it
sucks up.
10. Micro is attractive. Kind of like the old VW bug.
It looks like a "Dangerous Boat".
If you are looking for "Been there and done that!" experience.
I built a boat similar to that some 28 odd years ago.
Similar in mental concept anyway.
It was a 10' sailboat that I had designed with the intent
of having pleasant daysails with my wife on local lakes.
It was a decent sailer in fair winds, but one day,
the winds were not "Fair". In fact they were non existent.
We were only about a 1/4 mile from shore, but it was a
Very Hot July afternoon. My wife had only brought her
bathing suit, so was exposed to the Hot sun.
I was doing everything I could to make the boat move,
to no avail.
She was new to sailiing then, and kept insisting that we
should return to shore. She was right, and I knew it,
but there was nothing I could do.
I had taken no "Auxiliary Power".
We had been married for about 4 years, and never had a
"Fight". But this was the day of our first.
She rightfully wanted to return to shore, and I was trying
to explain to her that we couldn't.
That 10 foot boat became smaller and smaller.
I guess she could have gotten into the water, as there
was no chance of me sailiing away from her, but she just
wanted the boat to move. She did not understand that at
that moment, there was nobody in the world that wanted
that boat to move more than I did.
It was that day that I Really Learned how small a
"Small Boat" can be.
We are still together, and have had a few "tiffs" since, but that
is one we both remember to this day. We get along very well in
"Small Boats" now, but I make sure the boats aren't too small,
and do provide alternate power.
If you look at the first sketch with an open mind, and realize
how little room there would be for another person.
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/graphics/sketch2.jpg
You will see that there will be even less room in the second.
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/graphics/sketch3.jpg
That one body in the bed won't be yours.
It does look like a very nice "Samll Cruiser", but
it is my opinion that it wauld only be large enough
for "Day Sailing" for the Two of you.
Still Happily Married. Kay loves "Small Boats"
(Attending the Wedding of Friend's Son this afternoon.
I hope they are as happy in their marriage as we have been.)
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
If you are looking for "Been there and done that!" experience.
I built a boat similar to that some 28 odd years ago.
Similar in mental concept anyway.
It was a 10' sailboat that I had designed with the intent
of having pleasant daysails with my wife on local lakes.
It was a decent sailer in fair winds, but one day,
the winds were not "Fair". In fact they were non existent.
We were only about a 1/4 mile from shore, but it was a
Very Hot July afternoon. My wife had only brought her
bathing suit, so was exposed to the Hot sun.
I was doing everything I could to make the boat move,
to no avail.
She was new to sailiing then, and kept insisting that we
should return to shore. She was right, and I knew it,
but there was nothing I could do.
I had taken no "Auxiliary Power".
We had been married for about 4 years, and never had a
"Fight". But this was the day of our first.
She rightfully wanted to return to shore, and I was trying
to explain to her that we couldn't.
That 10 foot boat became smaller and smaller.
I guess she could have gotten into the water, as there
was no chance of me sailiing away from her, but she just
wanted the boat to move. She did not understand that at
that moment, there was nobody in the world that wanted
that boat to move more than I did.
It was that day that I Really Learned how small a
"Small Boat" can be.
We are still together, and have had a few "tiffs" since, but that
is one we both remember to this day. We get along very well in
"Small Boats" now, but I make sure the boats aren't too small,
and do provide alternate power.
If you look at the first sketch with an open mind, and realize
how little room there would be for another person.
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/graphics/sketch2.jpg
You will see that there will be even less room in the second.
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/graphics/sketch3.jpg
That one body in the bed won't be yours.
It does look like a very nice "Samll Cruiser", but
it is my opinion that it wauld only be large enough
for "Day Sailing" for the Two of you.
Still Happily Married. Kay loves "Small Boats"
(Attending the Wedding of Friend's Son this afternoon.
I hope they are as happy in their marriage as we have been.)
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., "Glenn" <cricket137@y...> wrote:
> Hi guys. I seek your help. I had a Micro in my future for some
> coastal cruising and a little off shore sailing. Then about three
> weeks ago I discovered Paradox, a Matt Layden design 14'. I think
I
> have fallen in love the more I see of it. Not quite as much boat
as
> Micro, but I think it would fit my wife and I perfectly.
>
> Please take a look at it at this site:
>
>http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm
>
> I've been lurking on this group about two months and I would really
> like to hear your opinions comparing the two boats. You guys
> have "Been there and done that"! At least some of your have.
>
> OK fellows. Let me have it. I think I can take it!
>
> Thanks---Glenn Powell
Glenn,
make sure to check Don Elliots group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Smallboats
as well as
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/paradoxbuilders
if you don't already know about these. There was quite a bit of
discussion on the smallboats list, before the paradoxbuilders group
started.
Paul
make sure to check Don Elliots group at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Smallboats
as well as
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/paradoxbuilders
if you don't already know about these. There was quite a bit of
discussion on the smallboats list, before the paradoxbuilders group
started.
Paul
--- In bolger@y..., "Glenn" <cricket137@y...> wrote:
> Hi guys. I seek your help. I had a Micro in my future for some
> coastal cruising and a little off shore sailing. Then about three
> weeks ago I discovered Paradox, a Matt Layden design 14'. I think
I
> have fallen in love the more I see of it. Not quite as much boat
as
> Micro, but I think it would fit my wife and I perfectly.
>
> Please take a look at it at this site:
>
>http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm
>
> I've been lurking on this group about two months and I would really
> like to hear your opinions comparing the two boats. You guys
> have "Been there and done that"! At least some of your have.
>
> OK fellows. Let me have it. I think I can take it!
>
> Thanks---Glenn Powell
Warren:
If you will look at this drawing:
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/Graphics/plans3.jpg
You will see that more than a little of that 4-1/2 ft beam has been lost.
My impression is that this is a solo boat, not suitable for two. The Little
Cruiser
is a two person boat. Glen, you should ask Dave Buldoc about the two boats.
Chuck
If you will look at this drawing:
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/Graphics/plans3.jpg
You will see that more than a little of that 4-1/2 ft beam has been lost.
My impression is that this is a solo boat, not suitable for two. The Little
Cruiser
is a two person boat. Glen, you should ask Dave Buldoc about the two boats.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:KF4call@...[mailto:KF4call@...]
> Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 8:46 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Paradox--Opinions Please
>
>
> LL a great looking little boat with apparently good stability
> designed in.
> Are you ready for a 4 1/2' beam? You and your wife could try
> sitting side by
> side on a sheet of plywood and see how the restrictions of that
> dimension
> suit you. Yes, the ply is 6 inches narrower, but then I imagine
> there are a
> few inches lost to decking or space for fastners on each side.
> Also, beam or
> lack of same can make a significant contribution to stability.
> Oldshoe, the
> "baby" Micro, has a beam of 5'. It is, however, an appealing
> looking boat
> with an actual voyage to back up the designers claims.
> Regards,
> Warren
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
LL a great looking little boat with apparently good stability designed in.
Are you ready for a 4 1/2' beam? You and your wife could try sitting side by
side on a sheet of plywood and see how the restrictions of that dimension
suit you. Yes, the ply is 6 inches narrower, but then I imagine there are a
few inches lost to decking or space for fastners on each side. Also, beam or
lack of same can make a significant contribution to stability. Oldshoe, the
"baby" Micro, has a beam of 5'. It is, however, an appealing looking boat
with an actual voyage to back up the designers claims.
Regards,
Warren
Are you ready for a 4 1/2' beam? You and your wife could try sitting side by
side on a sheet of plywood and see how the restrictions of that dimension
suit you. Yes, the ply is 6 inches narrower, but then I imagine there are a
few inches lost to decking or space for fastners on each side. Also, beam or
lack of same can make a significant contribution to stability. Oldshoe, the
"baby" Micro, has a beam of 5'. It is, however, an appealing looking boat
with an actual voyage to back up the designers claims.
Regards,
Warren
Hi guys. I seek your help. I had a Micro in my future for some
coastal cruising and a little off shore sailing. Then about three
weeks ago I discovered Paradox, a Matt Layden design 14'. I think I
have fallen in love the more I see of it. Not quite as much boat as
Micro, but I think it would fit my wife and I perfectly.
Please take a look at it at this site:
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm
I've been lurking on this group about two months and I would really
like to hear your opinions comparing the two boats. You guys
have "Been there and done that"! At least some of your have.
OK fellows. Let me have it. I think I can take it!
Thanks---Glenn Powell
coastal cruising and a little off shore sailing. Then about three
weeks ago I discovered Paradox, a Matt Layden design 14'. I think I
have fallen in love the more I see of it. Not quite as much boat as
Micro, but I think it would fit my wife and I perfectly.
Please take a look at it at this site:
http://home.triad.rr.com/lcruise/paradox1.htm
I've been lurking on this group about two months and I would really
like to hear your opinions comparing the two boats. You guys
have "Been there and done that"! At least some of your have.
OK fellows. Let me have it. I think I can take it!
Thanks---Glenn Powell