Re: Folding Schooner Update
I doubt whether there are fully developed plans. You could try
emailing Peter Kortlucke atkortluck@...with a c.c. to
kortlucke@...(there is some doubt about the spelling).
The little sailplan in the magazine shows a jib of 32 sq.ft., then
three sails, each on a boom and gaff, of 64, 110 and 130 sq.ft., fore
to aft. The original design has areas of 32, 64 and 97 sq.m. The
original bilgeboards mounted at the fwd end of what would become the
new aft hull section, seem to be retained, and there is a new board
(centreboard, daggerboard, bilgeboards?) just fwd of the centre mast.
Don't forget PCB's Rondo II, 39'6" x 6'8", plywood, with a jib and a
spritsail aft of each three masts. There is a gaff-rigged
alternative. This would be a much heavier boat, with simple
accommodation under a raised deck amidships.
Howard
cc tokortlucke@...--- In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "rogerleroy" <rogerleroy@y...> wrote:
emailing Peter Kortlucke atkortluck@...with a c.c. to
kortlucke@...(there is some doubt about the spelling).
The little sailplan in the magazine shows a jib of 32 sq.ft., then
three sails, each on a boom and gaff, of 64, 110 and 130 sq.ft., fore
to aft. The original design has areas of 32, 64 and 97 sq.m. The
original bilgeboards mounted at the fwd end of what would become the
new aft hull section, seem to be retained, and there is a new board
(centreboard, daggerboard, bilgeboards?) just fwd of the centre mast.
Don't forget PCB's Rondo II, 39'6" x 6'8", plywood, with a jib and a
spritsail aft of each three masts. There is a gaff-rigged
alternative. This would be a much heavier boat, with simple
accommodation under a raised deck amidships.
Howard
cc tokortlucke@...--- In
bolger@yahoogroups.com, "rogerleroy" <rogerleroy@y...> wrote:
> I'd love to see the plans of the 3rd middle section!
> Are there any plans? Where can we get them?
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
> <stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
> > Issue no 46 (June '04) of Australian Amateur Boatbuilder has a
> follow-
> > up article by Peter Kortlucke about his Folding Schooner built, I
> > think, in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. The not-to-plan
> buoyancy
> > tanks under side decks help to right the boat after capsize. The
> also
> > make it easier to unfold the boat, which is achieved by launching
> it
> > unfolded in shallow water, tipping it on its side, then unfolding
> it
> > before righting it. This can be achieved by one person, although
> it's
> > easier with two.
> >
> > I was intrigued by Peter's idea of building a third hull module
> that
> > would fit between the other two, to produce a 48' three-masted
> > schooner. His article shows a sailplan of such a design and he
> > suggests that a fourth section could be added.
> >
> > Howard
I'd love to see the plans of the 3rd middle section!
Are there any plans? Where can we get them?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
<stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
Are there any plans? Where can we get them?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
<stephensonhw@a...> wrote:
> Issue no 46 (June '04) of Australian Amateur Boatbuilder has afollow-
> up article by Peter Kortlucke about his Folding Schooner built, Ibuoyancy
> think, in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. The not-to-plan
> tanks under side decks help to right the boat after capsize. Thealso
> make it easier to unfold the boat, which is achieved by launchingit
> unfolded in shallow water, tipping it on its side, then unfoldingit
> before righting it. This can be achieved by one person, althoughit's
> easier with two.that
>
> I was intrigued by Peter's idea of building a third hull module
> would fit between the other two, to produce a 48' three-masted
> schooner. His article shows a sailplan of such a design and he
> suggests that a fourth section could be added.
>
> Howard
Issue no 46 (June '04) of Australian Amateur Boatbuilder has a follow-
up article by Peter Kortlucke about his Folding Schooner built, I
think, in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. The not-to-plan buoyancy
tanks under side decks help to right the boat after capsize. The also
make it easier to unfold the boat, which is achieved by launching it
unfolded in shallow water, tipping it on its side, then unfolding it
before righting it. This can be achieved by one person, although it's
easier with two.
I was intrigued by Peter's idea of building a third hull module that
would fit between the other two, to produce a 48' three-masted
schooner. His article shows a sailplan of such a design and he
suggests that a fourth section could be added.
Howard
up article by Peter Kortlucke about his Folding Schooner built, I
think, in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. The not-to-plan buoyancy
tanks under side decks help to right the boat after capsize. The also
make it easier to unfold the boat, which is achieved by launching it
unfolded in shallow water, tipping it on its side, then unfolding it
before righting it. This can be achieved by one person, although it's
easier with two.
I was intrigued by Peter's idea of building a third hull module that
would fit between the other two, to produce a 48' three-masted
schooner. His article shows a sailplan of such a design and he
suggests that a fourth section could be added.
Howard
Right, clamp or nail your temporary guide along each edge, no reason I can
think of to start oversize, though.
GHC
think of to start oversize, though.
GHC
>harding-@...wrote:
>> Your idea on frames is a good one. Option 2 is to build w/o bevels, tack
>> on a guide fence and cut with a circular saw.
>
>Having a little trouble visulizing option 2. You mean set the bevel on
>the circular saw and clamp on a guide paralell to the finished to side.
>Would you need to make your frames a little over dimension to
>accomodate the cut?
harding-@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=144
and outdoor furniture. Both of these would get more exposure to water
than any of the framing on one of our boats. Wished we sailed more than
we did but our boats spend 99% of their time on a trailer under cover.
One reason we are interested in the folding schooner is because it will
fit in a corner of the garage. I saw an empty shelf space for a
Borden's Pl exterior so I will watch for that. I think it would be fine
for gluing plywood to framing material. I would use expoxy for chines
and mast steps and such and the side planking to frame joint and
anything on the outside of the boat and the underwater joints.
the circular saw and clamp on a guide paralell to the finished to side.
Would you need to make your frames a little over dimension to
accomodate the cut?
Went out today to price wood. The ACX we saw was pretty sad. So far
can't find the super ply. Thinking about using marine fir for the sides
and bottom. I was thinking of possibly economizing with ACX or X Luan
for frame gussets and deck material. But it may just be a passing
attack of New England thrift.
Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Leander
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=144
> I built my last two boats with 5200 on frames, but am tending toagree with
> Chuck. The 5200 is a tough, tough adhesive (I think better thanepoxy),
> but takes many days to dry, and presents a rubbery texture that mightnot
> "mix" too well with epoxy or finishes you use later.cheaper,
>
> I have also used Weldwood and PL Polyurethane (like Gorilla), a
> foaming, single-part, water-proof glue with great success. There'salways
> a question, though, since these glues are not strictly "advertised"for
> boats - considering the time and material investment in the largerboats,
> epoxy seems conservative. Then again, my boats live 99% of their timeI was looking at the titebond II add and it said ideal for birdfeeders
> indoors on trailers...
>
and outdoor furniture. Both of these would get more exposure to water
than any of the framing on one of our boats. Wished we sailed more than
we did but our boats spend 99% of their time on a trailer under cover.
One reason we are interested in the folding schooner is because it will
fit in a corner of the garage. I saw an empty shelf space for a
Borden's Pl exterior so I will watch for that. I think it would be fine
for gluing plywood to framing material. I would use expoxy for chines
and mast steps and such and the side planking to frame joint and
anything on the outside of the boat and the underwater joints.
> Your idea on frames is a good one. Option 2 is to build w/o bevels,tack
> on a guide fence and cut with a circular saw.Having a little trouble visulizing option 2. You mean set the bevel on
the circular saw and clamp on a guide paralell to the finished to side.
Would you need to make your frames a little over dimension to
accomodate the cut?
Went out today to price wood. The ACX we saw was pretty sad. So far
can't find the super ply. Thinking about using marine fir for the sides
and bottom. I was thinking of possibly economizing with ACX or X Luan
for frame gussets and deck material. But it may just be a passing
attack of New England thrift.
Thanks to all for the help and advice.
Leander
>Frankly
> Gregg
>
>
> >I hear a lot of guys asking about alternatives to epoxy for gluing.
> >I can't think of anything handier. Get gallon plastic jugs withpumps, then
> >mark the pumps so that you can get a half shot. Also get some ofthe throw
> >away brushes, and a variety of poly cups or dixie cups, some of yourthese
> >favorite thickener, and you are in business. I keep some of each of
> >around the shop, and use them monthly when I'm not building a boat.Payson.
> >
> >Good luck on the folding schooner - looks like a fun boat.
> >
> >Chuck
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <harding2@...>
> >To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> >Sent: Saturday, August 21, 1999 5:55 PM
> >Subject: [bolger] Folding Schooner Update
> >
> >
> >> The plans came today for the folding schooner. $35 from H.H.
> >> In the meantime we bought a small tablesaw- a jet from Woodworkers$100
> >> warehouse. We started out to buy a benchtop rig but for another
> >> got a real tablesaw. Trying to set angles on the benchtops did itfor
> >> us. The ones with good fences and good mitre and bevel controlwere as
> >> much or more as the jet. If you want to know anything aboutbenchtop
> >> tablesaws ask. We have looked at everything on the market in thelast
> >> week. The new Dewalt is awesome with a price tag to match.thought it
> >>
> >> Does anyone have suggestions for a one part glue we could use for
> >> framing and butjoints? I noticed that Gregg used 3M 3200 but
> >> took a long time to dry. The idea of something handy to use thatgluing
> >> doesn't mean opening up large quantitites of expoxy for a small
> >> job is very appealing. Payson recommended Weldwood in one of hisbooks
> >> for this application. We used that in the Gypsy we built which isfailure.
> >> coated inside with resin and has glass on the outside. 8 years and
> >> going strong.Used Weldwood for the mast also and no signs of
> >> Wondering if Titebond II might be at least as good as that. Maybedidn't
> >> Gorilla glue. Looks expensive.
> >>
> >> It has been a while since I built something like this. The Gypsy
> >> have any bevel on the frames except the transom. I seem to rememberstock to
> >> that I cut stock with the right bevel on it and then used that
> >> build the frames. Placed the plywood for the transom flush withinside
> >> edge of the frame. The plywood wasn't enough added thickness inthat
> >> application to make a difference. I would be very interested in anyprices
> >> advice on building the frames and bulkheads.
> >>
> >> We have sometime to mull over the plans while we check on wood
> >> and plywood. I am hoping to find some super=ply.------
> >>
> >> We will put up a note about our progress from time to time until it
> >> gets too embarassing.
> >>
> >> Peace,
> >> Leander
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> MyPoints-Free Rewards When You're Online.
> >> Start with up to 150 Points for joining!
> >>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/805
> >>
> >>
> >> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
> >>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
> >>
> >>
> >>Thanks for
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
I built my last two boats with 5200 on frames, but am tending to agree with
Chuck. The 5200 is a tough, tough adhesive (I think better than epoxy),
but takes many days to dry, and presents a rubbery texture that might not
"mix" too well with epoxy or finishes you use later.
I have also used Weldwood and PL Polyurethane (like Gorilla), a cheaper,
foaming, single-part, water-proof glue with great success. There's always
a question, though, since these glues are not strictly "advertised" for
boats - considering the time and material investment in the larger boats,
epoxy seems conservative. Then again, my boats live 99% of their time
indoors on trailers...
Your idea on frames is a good one. Option 2 is to build w/o bevels, tack
on a guide fence and cut with a circular saw.
Gregg
Chuck. The 5200 is a tough, tough adhesive (I think better than epoxy),
but takes many days to dry, and presents a rubbery texture that might not
"mix" too well with epoxy or finishes you use later.
I have also used Weldwood and PL Polyurethane (like Gorilla), a cheaper,
foaming, single-part, water-proof glue with great success. There's always
a question, though, since these glues are not strictly "advertised" for
boats - considering the time and material investment in the larger boats,
epoxy seems conservative. Then again, my boats live 99% of their time
indoors on trailers...
Your idea on frames is a good one. Option 2 is to build w/o bevels, tack
on a guide fence and cut with a circular saw.
Gregg
>I hear a lot of guys asking about alternatives to epoxy for gluing. Frankly
>I can't think of anything handier. Get gallon plastic jugs with pumps, then
>mark the pumps so that you can get a half shot. Also get some of the throw
>away brushes, and a variety of poly cups or dixie cups, some of your
>favorite thickener, and you are in business. I keep some of each of these
>around the shop, and use them monthly when I'm not building a boat.
>
>Good luck on the folding schooner - looks like a fun boat.
>
>Chuck
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <harding2@...>
>To: <bolger@egroups.com>
>Sent: Saturday, August 21, 1999 5:55 PM
>Subject: [bolger] Folding Schooner Update
>
>
>> The plans came today for the folding schooner. $35 from H.H. Payson.
>> In the meantime we bought a small tablesaw- a jet from Woodworkers
>> warehouse. We started out to buy a benchtop rig but for another $100
>> got a real tablesaw. Trying to set angles on the benchtops did it for
>> us. The ones with good fences and good mitre and bevel control were as
>> much or more as the jet. If you want to know anything about benchtop
>> tablesaws ask. We have looked at everything on the market in the last
>> week. The new Dewalt is awesome with a price tag to match.
>>
>> Does anyone have suggestions for a one part glue we could use for
>> framing and butjoints? I noticed that Gregg used 3M 3200 but thought it
>> took a long time to dry. The idea of something handy to use that
>> doesn't mean opening up large quantitites of expoxy for a small gluing
>> job is very appealing. Payson recommended Weldwood in one of his books
>> for this application. We used that in the Gypsy we built which is
>> coated inside with resin and has glass on the outside. 8 years and
>> going strong.Used Weldwood for the mast also and no signs of failure.
>> Wondering if Titebond II might be at least as good as that. Maybe
>> Gorilla glue. Looks expensive.
>>
>> It has been a while since I built something like this. The Gypsy didn't
>> have any bevel on the frames except the transom. I seem to remember
>> that I cut stock with the right bevel on it and then used that stock to
>> build the frames. Placed the plywood for the transom flush with inside
>> edge of the frame. The plywood wasn't enough added thickness in that
>> application to make a difference. I would be very interested in any
>> advice on building the frames and bulkheads.
>>
>> We have sometime to mull over the plans while we check on wood prices
>> and plywood. I am hoping to find some super=ply.
>>
>> We will put up a note about our progress from time to time until it
>> gets too embarassing.
>>
>> Peace,
>> Leander
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> MyPoints-Free Rewards When You're Online.
>> Start with up to 150 Points for joining!
>>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/805
>>
>>
>> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Just Tell Us What You Want...
>Respond.com - Shopping the World for You!
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>
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
Leander:
I hear a lot of guys asking about alternatives to epoxy for gluing. Frankly
I can't think of anything handier. Get gallon plastic jugs with pumps, then
mark the pumps so that you can get a half shot. Also get some of the throw
away brushes, and a variety of poly cups or dixie cups, some of your
favorite thickener, and you are in business. I keep some of each of these
around the shop, and use them monthly when I'm not building a boat.
Good luck on the folding schooner - looks like a fun boat.
Chuck
I hear a lot of guys asking about alternatives to epoxy for gluing. Frankly
I can't think of anything handier. Get gallon plastic jugs with pumps, then
mark the pumps so that you can get a half shot. Also get some of the throw
away brushes, and a variety of poly cups or dixie cups, some of your
favorite thickener, and you are in business. I keep some of each of these
around the shop, and use them monthly when I'm not building a boat.
Good luck on the folding schooner - looks like a fun boat.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <harding2@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 1999 5:55 PM
Subject: [bolger] Folding Schooner Update
> The plans came today for the folding schooner. $35 from H.H. Payson.
> In the meantime we bought a small tablesaw- a jet from Woodworkers
> warehouse. We started out to buy a benchtop rig but for another $100
> got a real tablesaw. Trying to set angles on the benchtops did it for
> us. The ones with good fences and good mitre and bevel control were as
> much or more as the jet. If you want to know anything about benchtop
> tablesaws ask. We have looked at everything on the market in the last
> week. The new Dewalt is awesome with a price tag to match.
>
> Does anyone have suggestions for a one part glue we could use for
> framing and butjoints? I noticed that Gregg used 3M 3200 but thought it
> took a long time to dry. The idea of something handy to use that
> doesn't mean opening up large quantitites of expoxy for a small gluing
> job is very appealing. Payson recommended Weldwood in one of his books
> for this application. We used that in the Gypsy we built which is
> coated inside with resin and has glass on the outside. 8 years and
> going strong.Used Weldwood for the mast also and no signs of failure.
> Wondering if Titebond II might be at least as good as that. Maybe
> Gorilla glue. Looks expensive.
>
> It has been a while since I built something like this. The Gypsy didn't
> have any bevel on the frames except the transom. I seem to remember
> that I cut stock with the right bevel on it and then used that stock to
> build the frames. Placed the plywood for the transom flush with inside
> edge of the frame. The plywood wasn't enough added thickness in that
> application to make a difference. I would be very interested in any
> advice on building the frames and bulkheads.
>
> We have sometime to mull over the plans while we check on wood prices
> and plywood. I am hoping to find some super=ply.
>
> We will put up a note about our progress from time to time until it
> gets too embarassing.
>
> Peace,
> Leander
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> MyPoints-Free Rewards When You're Online.
> Start with up to 150 Points for joining!
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/805
>
>
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
The plans came today for the folding schooner. $35 from H.H. Payson.
In the meantime we bought a small tablesaw- a jet from Woodworkers
warehouse. We started out to buy a benchtop rig but for another $100
got a real tablesaw. Trying to set angles on the benchtops did it for
us. The ones with good fences and good mitre and bevel control were as
much or more as the jet. If you want to know anything about benchtop
tablesaws ask. We have looked at everything on the market in the last
week. The new Dewalt is awesome with a price tag to match.
Does anyone have suggestions for a one part glue we could use for
framing and butjoints? I noticed that Gregg used 3M 3200 but thought it
took a long time to dry. The idea of something handy to use that
doesn't mean opening up large quantitites of expoxy for a small gluing
job is very appealing. Payson recommended Weldwood in one of his books
for this application. We used that in the Gypsy we built which is
coated inside with resin and has glass on the outside. 8 years and
going strong.Used Weldwood for the mast also and no signs of failure.
Wondering if Titebond II might be at least as good as that. Maybe
Gorilla glue. Looks expensive.
It has been a while since I built something like this. The Gypsy didn't
have any bevel on the frames except the transom. I seem to remember
that I cut stock with the right bevel on it and then used that stock to
build the frames. Placed the plywood for the transom flush with inside
edge of the frame. The plywood wasn't enough added thickness in that
application to make a difference. I would be very interested in any
advice on building the frames and bulkheads.
We have sometime to mull over the plans while we check on wood prices
and plywood. I am hoping to find some super=ply.
We will put up a note about our progress from time to time until it
gets too embarassing.
Peace,
Leander
In the meantime we bought a small tablesaw- a jet from Woodworkers
warehouse. We started out to buy a benchtop rig but for another $100
got a real tablesaw. Trying to set angles on the benchtops did it for
us. The ones with good fences and good mitre and bevel control were as
much or more as the jet. If you want to know anything about benchtop
tablesaws ask. We have looked at everything on the market in the last
week. The new Dewalt is awesome with a price tag to match.
Does anyone have suggestions for a one part glue we could use for
framing and butjoints? I noticed that Gregg used 3M 3200 but thought it
took a long time to dry. The idea of something handy to use that
doesn't mean opening up large quantitites of expoxy for a small gluing
job is very appealing. Payson recommended Weldwood in one of his books
for this application. We used that in the Gypsy we built which is
coated inside with resin and has glass on the outside. 8 years and
going strong.Used Weldwood for the mast also and no signs of failure.
Wondering if Titebond II might be at least as good as that. Maybe
Gorilla glue. Looks expensive.
It has been a while since I built something like this. The Gypsy didn't
have any bevel on the frames except the transom. I seem to remember
that I cut stock with the right bevel on it and then used that stock to
build the frames. Placed the plywood for the transom flush with inside
edge of the frame. The plywood wasn't enough added thickness in that
application to make a difference. I would be very interested in any
advice on building the frames and bulkheads.
We have sometime to mull over the plans while we check on wood prices
and plywood. I am hoping to find some super=ply.
We will put up a note about our progress from time to time until it
gets too embarassing.
Peace,
Leander