Re: Micro hatch boards/sliding hatch
Pictures, please?
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> I remember the episode.
>
> Hope your sail went well today. What a glorius day for a sail in a
> new boat!
>
> I did a mock up of the hatch as described by Bolger. I then went
and
> modified it slightly. I ran the forward piece along the cabin
> hatchway all the way out to the sides so that it would serve as a
> waterproof splash board and prevent boarding seas from winding up
on
> my matress. I also ended the hatch slides about 10" from the bow
so
> there would be one less thing to trip on when moving forward for
the
> anchor. The mock up was a good idea as it let me know just how
> everything was going to work when assembled. The sliding hatch
> arrangenment is actually pretty clever! I am going to use brass
> slides on the top of the rails, and also under the guides
(rabbetted
> into the hatch cross members. This should work well and look
good.
>
> Happy boating
> David Jost
I remember the episode.
Hope your sail went well today. What a glorius day for a sail in a
new boat!
I did a mock up of the hatch as described by Bolger. I then went and
modified it slightly. I ran the forward piece along the cabin
hatchway all the way out to the sides so that it would serve as a
waterproof splash board and prevent boarding seas from winding up on
my matress. I also ended the hatch slides about 10" from the bow so
there would be one less thing to trip on when moving forward for the
anchor. The mock up was a good idea as it let me know just how
everything was going to work when assembled. The sliding hatch
arrangenment is actually pretty clever! I am going to use brass
slides on the top of the rails, and also under the guides (rabbetted
into the hatch cross members. This should work well and look good.
Happy boating
David Jost
Hope your sail went well today. What a glorius day for a sail in a
new boat!
I did a mock up of the hatch as described by Bolger. I then went and
modified it slightly. I ran the forward piece along the cabin
hatchway all the way out to the sides so that it would serve as a
waterproof splash board and prevent boarding seas from winding up on
my matress. I also ended the hatch slides about 10" from the bow so
there would be one less thing to trip on when moving forward for the
anchor. The mock up was a good idea as it let me know just how
everything was going to work when assembled. The sliding hatch
arrangenment is actually pretty clever! I am going to use brass
slides on the top of the rails, and also under the guides (rabbetted
into the hatch cross members. This should work well and look good.
Happy boating
David Jost
"Tenagra" is a mythical island in one the Star Trek episodes. The
boat is our island of serenity in a gale sweep world...
boat is our island of serenity in a gale sweep world...
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Randy,
> My family has informed me that I have "other" plans. Take some
> pictures and post them for us. I won't be free until 1:00 pm, and
> then I want to get back to the hatch on my boat. The objective is
to
> make it relatively weather proof until next April.
> "Tenagra"? I seem to remember that name from a Star Trek
> episode. What does it mean?
>
> David Jost
Randy,
My family has informed me that I have "other" plans. Take some
pictures and post them for us. I won't be free until 1:00 pm, and
then I want to get back to the hatch on my boat. The objective is to
make it relatively weather proof until next April.
"Tenagra"? I seem to remember that name from a Star Trek
episode. What does it mean?
David Jost
My family has informed me that I have "other" plans. Take some
pictures and post them for us. I won't be free until 1:00 pm, and
then I want to get back to the hatch on my boat. The objective is to
make it relatively weather proof until next April.
"Tenagra"? I seem to remember that name from a Star Trek
episode. What does it mean?
David Jost
Hi David,
Of course you can attend! It will be early though -8:00 am this
Saturday in Salem, MA. Nothing fancy. A few words and "Tenagra"
(our Micro) will be lowered into the water. However, we'll be at the
marina dock most of the day doing last minute outfitting, etc.
Post me an email or give a call for directions, etc. It would be
great to catch up with you again.
cheers,
randy
Of course you can attend! It will be early though -8:00 am this
Saturday in Salem, MA. Nothing fancy. A few words and "Tenagra"
(our Micro) will be lowered into the water. However, we'll be at the
marina dock most of the day doing last minute outfitting, etc.
Post me an email or give a call for directions, etc. It would be
great to catch up with you again.
cheers,
randy
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Launch this weekend? Wow, that was fast!
>
> I am at least 8-12 months away from launch due to a job change and
> increased demands on my time.
>
> I will check out Bud McIntosh's book. It is available at the
> Framingham Public Library.
>
> Can I attend your launch? I would love to visit your creation and
> witness this first hand.
>
> David Jost
>
> "feeling much comfort and support from our Canadian and Global
> friends in this boatbuilding community. Thank you."
Launch this weekend? Wow, that was fast!
I am at least 8-12 months away from launch due to a job change and
increased demands on my time.
I will check out Bud McIntosh's book. It is available at the
Framingham Public Library.
Can I attend your launch? I would love to visit your creation and
witness this first hand.
David Jost
"feeling much comfort and support from our Canadian and Global
friends in this boatbuilding community. Thank you."
I am at least 8-12 months away from launch due to a job change and
increased demands on my time.
I will check out Bud McIntosh's book. It is available at the
Framingham Public Library.
Can I attend your launch? I would love to visit your creation and
witness this first hand.
David Jost
"feeling much comfort and support from our Canadian and Global
friends in this boatbuilding community. Thank you."
Pictures, please?
--- In bolger@y..., rrobar@s... wrote:
> Hi David,
>
> I started to build the hatch cover and slides according to Bolger's
> plans, then sat up front with my feet hanging in the forward free
> flooding section. Nothing felt solid. I couldn't imagine being up
> there in any sort of weather trying to get sail down or deploy the
> anchor. I also tend to use my arms to get into and out of the
> cabin. The side pieces, where you put your hands to raise or lower
> your body, were too thin and cut into my hands.
>
> I ripped those tall, thin plywood sides off and totally rebuilt
> according to Bud MacIntosh. There is a complete, easy to
understand
> diagram in his book, How to Build a Wooden Boat. (When in doubt, I
> always refer to Bud). The hatch, slides, and hatch boards are very
> solid and work slick.
>
> I now feel safe sitting on the hatch cover while working up front.
>
> Happy Building!
> randy
> planning to launch this weekend!
Hi David,
I started to build the hatch cover and slides according to Bolger's
plans, then sat up front with my feet hanging in the forward free
flooding section. Nothing felt solid. I couldn't imagine being up
there in any sort of weather trying to get sail down or deploy the
anchor. I also tend to use my arms to get into and out of the
cabin. The side pieces, where you put your hands to raise or lower
your body, were too thin and cut into my hands.
I ripped those tall, thin plywood sides off and totally rebuilt
according to Bud MacIntosh. There is a complete, easy to understand
diagram in his book, How to Build a Wooden Boat. (When in doubt, I
always refer to Bud). The hatch, slides, and hatch boards are very
solid and work slick.
I now feel safe sitting on the hatch cover while working up front.
Happy Building!
randy
planning to launch this weekend!
I started to build the hatch cover and slides according to Bolger's
plans, then sat up front with my feet hanging in the forward free
flooding section. Nothing felt solid. I couldn't imagine being up
there in any sort of weather trying to get sail down or deploy the
anchor. I also tend to use my arms to get into and out of the
cabin. The side pieces, where you put your hands to raise or lower
your body, were too thin and cut into my hands.
I ripped those tall, thin plywood sides off and totally rebuilt
according to Bud MacIntosh. There is a complete, easy to understand
diagram in his book, How to Build a Wooden Boat. (When in doubt, I
always refer to Bud). The hatch, slides, and hatch boards are very
solid and work slick.
I now feel safe sitting on the hatch cover while working up front.
Happy Building!
randy
planning to launch this weekend!
Tom,
I think you talked me into this. I might go with the old
fashioned non-bailing footwell. This would give me a place to brace
my feet when heeled, and it can be emptied with an old plastic
bucket. I have sailed my non-bailing Enterprise (13' racing dinghy)
to Nantucket and back in such a manner, and it's cockpit holds a lot
more water than Micro.
I have found that the cockpit footwell as designed just is not
comfortable with the combing around the well. If we just eliminate
it and get on with a real well I think it would be a considerable
improvement.
Peter Lenihan installed wainscotting along the cockpit and cabin
which softens up the look quite a bit, and also makes the back rest
much more comfortable.
I think you talked me into this. I might go with the old
fashioned non-bailing footwell. This would give me a place to brace
my feet when heeled, and it can be emptied with an old plastic
bucket. I have sailed my non-bailing Enterprise (13' racing dinghy)
to Nantucket and back in such a manner, and it's cockpit holds a lot
more water than Micro.
I have found that the cockpit footwell as designed just is not
comfortable with the combing around the well. If we just eliminate
it and get on with a real well I think it would be a considerable
improvement.
Peter Lenihan installed wainscotting along the cockpit and cabin
which softens up the look quite a bit, and also makes the back rest
much more comfortable.
>
> --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
>
> > Is this well self-bailing?
> >
> > David Jost
My intention is for the cockpit to be self-bailing. I'll find out
for sure when I get it in the water. If it isn't, all I have to do
is raise the bottom a bit. Working from measurements on the plans,
the present bottom should slope aft so the water drains out holes
into the aft free-flooding area.
for sure when I get it in the water. If it isn't, all I have to do
is raise the bottom a bit. Working from measurements on the plans,
the present bottom should slope aft so the water drains out holes
into the aft free-flooding area.
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Is this well self-bailing?
>
> David Jost
David, as a small further variation, I extended my hatch cover a
little further aft than Tom's, so it overhangs the face of the
washboard, then glued a full width 3" deep board across the aft top
side of the washboard, outside face in same line as back of hatch.
This gives a little more weather-proofing, more strength to the
washboard, and gives a flush face to fit a decent size padlock hasp
(nylon insert friction nuts on inside, or burred thread)
DonB
little further aft than Tom's, so it overhangs the face of the
washboard, then glued a full width 3" deep board across the aft top
side of the washboard, outside face in same line as back of hatch.
This gives a little more weather-proofing, more strength to the
washboard, and gives a flush face to fit a decent size padlock hasp
(nylon insert friction nuts on inside, or burred thread)
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Tom,
> Thank you for the tip. your boat is looking great! I love the
> footwell in the cockpit idea. I built mine to Bolger's plans, but
I
> am thinking that a small footwell might have been a better plan. I
> know I would lose some storage, but It would be a lot more
> comfortable on a long haul.
> Is this well self-bailing?
>
> David Jost
-
Paul,
After dabbling with the idea of glassing my panels pre -
assembly I've decided to do it after my Micro's together. It will
provide an acceptably flat surface to work with to prevent runs etc,
and also I won't have to re-draw the pencil lines on the panels that
are needed for the sheer moulding, deck level etc. I don't want the
bending to be a worry either I think you're right, there will be
lots of double finishing if we add a nicely glassed side panel too
early.
With my other boats after assembly I remove all side panel to
bulkhead screws. I find a nice fillet of epoxy on either side of the
frame will render the screws obsolete. I assemble the
panels/bulkheads/transoms with screws and no glue, when finished back
the screws off a bit to work some thickened epoxy into the joins,
tighten enough so as not to squeeze all the glue out, then fillet
either side. However, I haven't assembled my Micro yet, maybe there
will be some points under lots of bending pressure where I may be
tempted to leave some screws in. I think this is how most of us do
it, I could be wrong though!
I'm building my keel as designed, and after seeing what epoxy can do
I'm pretty sure the keel batten would hold on using epoxy only. I
dont want to test my theory though as will be taking mine offshore -
I will use the keel bolts recommended - I presume Bolger knows best.
I too need some advice re which metal is best to use, not being an
electrolysis expert. Mine will live on a trailer and be used in salt
water.
Both side staves glued to forward stave on mast today,(standard
length) add the aft stave tomorrow. Thats a big lump of wood....
Regards,
Col Mooney
-- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
Paul,
After dabbling with the idea of glassing my panels pre -
assembly I've decided to do it after my Micro's together. It will
provide an acceptably flat surface to work with to prevent runs etc,
and also I won't have to re-draw the pencil lines on the panels that
are needed for the sheer moulding, deck level etc. I don't want the
bending to be a worry either I think you're right, there will be
lots of double finishing if we add a nicely glassed side panel too
early.
With my other boats after assembly I remove all side panel to
bulkhead screws. I find a nice fillet of epoxy on either side of the
frame will render the screws obsolete. I assemble the
panels/bulkheads/transoms with screws and no glue, when finished back
the screws off a bit to work some thickened epoxy into the joins,
tighten enough so as not to squeeze all the glue out, then fillet
either side. However, I haven't assembled my Micro yet, maybe there
will be some points under lots of bending pressure where I may be
tempted to leave some screws in. I think this is how most of us do
it, I could be wrong though!
I'm building my keel as designed, and after seeing what epoxy can do
I'm pretty sure the keel batten would hold on using epoxy only. I
dont want to test my theory though as will be taking mine offshore -
I will use the keel bolts recommended - I presume Bolger knows best.
I too need some advice re which metal is best to use, not being an
electrolysis expert. Mine will live on a trailer and be used in salt
water.
Both side staves glued to forward stave on mast today,(standard
length) add the aft stave tomorrow. Thats a big lump of wood....
Regards,
Col Mooney
-- In bolger@y..., "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> I'm about to start my Micro, and have decided that the more pre-fabwork I
> can get done in the warmth of my basement this winter, the furtheralong
> I'll be come springtime, so the recent thread on pre-glassingpanels sounds
> like a potential timesaver but raises a few questions. If I pre-glass my
> panels, I will then have to drill through the smooth glass sheathto screw
> or nail the panels onto the frames/bulkheads when building 3-D, sohow much
> added work will it make to have to fill and fair screws AFTER thepanel has
> been glassed vs. doing all this and then glassing over it - andwill the
> lumps be more visible if fairing over glass? All my glassingexperience has
> been on clear-finished strip boats where all fairing is done byremoving
> wood before glassing, I've never added anything cuz it'd be visiblethrough
> the varnish, so haven't used any fairing compounds and don't knowhow well
> they can be made to disappear under the final coats. I suppose withMicro,
> the alternative is to knock it together 3-D, fair it, then flip itup on one
> side, glass the side that's up, etc..... how heavy can it be, pre-keel? I'd
> just need to build a platform to work from.....hold
>
> Also, is it a real bad idea to remove screws and leave the epoxy to
> things together, or should I plan to keep the screws in? I'velearned to
> trust thickened epoxy, so if I could pop the boat together withsoaped-up
> hardened sheet-rock screws and the remove them before finishing I'davoid
> the whole marine-grade screw issue for the basic hull...... butthen there'd
> be 400+lbs of lead dangling down there with epoxy alone holding thebottom
> of the boat to the rest of it...... so assuming the worst, arestainless
> screws OK under a glass/epoxy sheath, with a lead keel? Or must itbe bronze
> to avoid all that wierd alchemy/voodoo of electrolysis? I'll bedoing a
> deadwood keel like Peter Lenihan's, so won't need bronze nails tofasten the
> sheathing to the lead. I believe I remember from Kingsland Bayseeing
> stainless rods and nuts holding his keel on (Peter?), but I gatherLestat
> has lived entirely in fresh water, I'll be in salt water. How big adeal is
> this, for a small plywood/epoxy boat with the very minimum ofelectrics?
> Anyone ever had a boat come apart because of mixed metals? Do Ineed to
> start thinking about bronze keelbolts? I'll be trailering at first,but if I
> ever go to a mooring I want the boat to be built for it.
>
> Paul L.
Paul,
I have discovered that the glass actually drills quite nicely
through the layers of glass. NO splinters, and a smooth hole. When
you go to install the rub rails, mast partners, decking, etc... you
need to drill through the sheathing anyway. No big deal. I think
pre-glassing is a great idea, and will ensure a surface that is much
easier to fair. Wish I had done it. See Ren Tolman's book "The
perfect skiff"
David Jost
"just where is hurricane Erin going anyway?"
I have discovered that the glass actually drills quite nicely
through the layers of glass. NO splinters, and a smooth hole. When
you go to install the rub rails, mast partners, decking, etc... you
need to drill through the sheathing anyway. No big deal. I think
pre-glassing is a great idea, and will ensure a surface that is much
easier to fair. Wish I had done it. See Ren Tolman's book "The
perfect skiff"
David Jost
"just where is hurricane Erin going anyway?"
Tom,
Thank you for the tip. your boat is looking great! I love the
footwell in the cockpit idea. I built mine to Bolger's plans, but I
am thinking that a small footwell might have been a better plan. I
know I would lose some storage, but It would be a lot more
comfortable on a long haul.
Is this well self-bailing?
David Jost
Thank you for the tip. your boat is looking great! I love the
footwell in the cockpit idea. I built mine to Bolger's plans, but I
am thinking that a small footwell might have been a better plan. I
know I would lose some storage, but It would be a lot more
comfortable on a long haul.
Is this well self-bailing?
David Jost
Thank you Peter,
You certainly are a gentleman and a scholar. I took some pictures of
your hatch that are still in the camera. Thank you for reminding
me. I have not screwed and glued any of the hatch pieces yet, so
modifying them is easy. I am going with the brass pieces fore and
aft. I think that if I stop the 3/4" track a little early, I can
then lift the hatch up and work it aft, then slide it back into place
and fasten it secure. Since I am a visual learner, I need to do a
mock up first.
David Jost
You certainly are a gentleman and a scholar. I took some pictures of
your hatch that are still in the camera. Thank you for reminding
me. I have not screwed and glued any of the hatch pieces yet, so
modifying them is easy. I am going with the brass pieces fore and
aft. I think that if I stop the 3/4" track a little early, I can
then lift the hatch up and work it aft, then slide it back into place
and fasten it secure. Since I am a visual learner, I need to do a
mock up first.
David Jost
> Peter Lenihan,water
> stealing time at work just to get on-line........very near the
> muddy,filthy and fast moving St.Lawrence.........
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> > Dear Group,
> > I am lost on this one.
> > For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to rig the hatch
> > boards and the hatch so that I can lock the boat up and keep
> > out, yet still have an operating hatch.
> > Does anyone have any pictures of this?
> >
> > David Jost
> > "getting there"
I'm about to start my Micro, and have decided that the more pre-fab work I
can get done in the warmth of my basement this winter, the further along
I'll be come springtime, so the recent thread on pre-glassing panels sounds
like a potential timesaver but raises a few questions. If I pre-glass my
panels, I will then have to drill through the smooth glass sheath to screw
or nail the panels onto the frames/bulkheads when building 3-D, so how much
added work will it make to have to fill and fair screws AFTER the panel has
been glassed vs. doing all this and then glassing over it - and will the
lumps be more visible if fairing over glass? All my glassing experience has
been on clear-finished strip boats where all fairing is done by removing
wood before glassing, I've never added anything cuz it'd be visible through
the varnish, so haven't used any fairing compounds and don't know how well
they can be made to disappear under the final coats. I suppose with Micro,
the alternative is to knock it together 3-D, fair it, then flip it up on one
side, glass the side that's up, etc..... how heavy can it be, pre-keel? I'd
just need to build a platform to work from.....
Also, is it a real bad idea to remove screws and leave the epoxy to hold
things together, or should I plan to keep the screws in? I've learned to
trust thickened epoxy, so if I could pop the boat together with soaped-up
hardened sheet-rock screws and the remove them before finishing I'd avoid
the whole marine-grade screw issue for the basic hull...... but then there'd
be 400+lbs of lead dangling down there with epoxy alone holding the bottom
of the boat to the rest of it...... so assuming the worst, are stainless
screws OK under a glass/epoxy sheath, with a lead keel? Or must it be bronze
to avoid all that wierd alchemy/voodoo of electrolysis? I'll be doing a
deadwood keel like Peter Lenihan's, so won't need bronze nails to fasten the
sheathing to the lead. I believe I remember from Kingsland Bay seeing
stainless rods and nuts holding his keel on (Peter?), but I gather Lestat
has lived entirely in fresh water, I'll be in salt water. How big a deal is
this, for a small plywood/epoxy boat with the very minimum of electrics?
Anyone ever had a boat come apart because of mixed metals? Do I need to
start thinking about bronze keelbolts? I'll be trailering at first, but if I
ever go to a mooring I want the boat to be built for it.
Paul L.
can get done in the warmth of my basement this winter, the further along
I'll be come springtime, so the recent thread on pre-glassing panels sounds
like a potential timesaver but raises a few questions. If I pre-glass my
panels, I will then have to drill through the smooth glass sheath to screw
or nail the panels onto the frames/bulkheads when building 3-D, so how much
added work will it make to have to fill and fair screws AFTER the panel has
been glassed vs. doing all this and then glassing over it - and will the
lumps be more visible if fairing over glass? All my glassing experience has
been on clear-finished strip boats where all fairing is done by removing
wood before glassing, I've never added anything cuz it'd be visible through
the varnish, so haven't used any fairing compounds and don't know how well
they can be made to disappear under the final coats. I suppose with Micro,
the alternative is to knock it together 3-D, fair it, then flip it up on one
side, glass the side that's up, etc..... how heavy can it be, pre-keel? I'd
just need to build a platform to work from.....
Also, is it a real bad idea to remove screws and leave the epoxy to hold
things together, or should I plan to keep the screws in? I've learned to
trust thickened epoxy, so if I could pop the boat together with soaped-up
hardened sheet-rock screws and the remove them before finishing I'd avoid
the whole marine-grade screw issue for the basic hull...... but then there'd
be 400+lbs of lead dangling down there with epoxy alone holding the bottom
of the boat to the rest of it...... so assuming the worst, are stainless
screws OK under a glass/epoxy sheath, with a lead keel? Or must it be bronze
to avoid all that wierd alchemy/voodoo of electrolysis? I'll be doing a
deadwood keel like Peter Lenihan's, so won't need bronze nails to fasten the
sheathing to the lead. I believe I remember from Kingsland Bay seeing
stainless rods and nuts holding his keel on (Peter?), but I gather Lestat
has lived entirely in fresh water, I'll be in salt water. How big a deal is
this, for a small plywood/epoxy boat with the very minimum of electrics?
Anyone ever had a boat come apart because of mixed metals? Do I need to
start thinking about bronze keelbolts? I'll be trailering at first, but if I
ever go to a mooring I want the boat to be built for it.
Paul L.
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
David
This one took me a while to figure out, too. Here's what I finally
came up with. Pictures are in the Micro section of the Files under
hatchcover.jpg and 2cockpit.jpg.
Fig.1 The aft edge of the hatchcover fits over the top of the
weatherboard. The angled edge is to keep water from running inside.
Fig 2. Shows how the weatherboard fits below the hatchcover. I put
wrap-around corners at the top. They finish off to look like
extensions of the boards that hold the weatherboard in place. The
smaller diagram shows how the wrap-arounds look from the side. Note
the lower back edge to allow the hatch cover to be pulled all the way
back.
To close:
1. Put weatherboard in place.
2. Pull hatchcover back so it is a little bit past the weatherboard
(so drips go outside). The padlock hasp mounts so that you have to
flip it up to lock the cover.
This has kept out rain on my boat for about a year. Still hoping for
a fall launch.
> Dear Group,
> I am lost on this one.
> For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to rig the hatch
> boards and the hatch so that I can lock the boat up and keep water
> out, yet still have an operating hatch.
> Does anyone have any pictures of this?
>
> David Jost
> "getting there"
Dear David,
Ya shoulda taken some notes while down in Kingsland Bay ;-)
You might want to check out the files section( folder:MICRO) for a
picture of my hatch.Although not the best picture in the world,it may
serve to jog your memory.
In essence; the drop board has a teflon strip rabbeted into its
forward face ie,facing the inside of the cabin.These strips run down
a slot on either side of the companionway and a dam is located across
the bottom of the companionway frame as can be seen in the photo.
As to the sliding hatch part, a small tongue of bronze was screwed
into the aft hatch frame(which goes athwarthship) this small tongue
extends just far enough aft so that it can pierce the thickness of
your drop-board(through the slot you have made after locating its
precise postion relative to the tongue).It helps greatly if your
hatch top extends somewhat beyond the drop baord.
I hope this helps somewhat David although I am aware that
perhaps you have set things up a bit differently then me and it may
be too late to do it the same.
Good Luck and happiness!!
Peter Lenihan,
stealing time at work just to get on-line........very near the
muddy,filthy and fast moving St.Lawrence.........
Ya shoulda taken some notes while down in Kingsland Bay ;-)
You might want to check out the files section( folder:MICRO) for a
picture of my hatch.Although not the best picture in the world,it may
serve to jog your memory.
In essence; the drop board has a teflon strip rabbeted into its
forward face ie,facing the inside of the cabin.These strips run down
a slot on either side of the companionway and a dam is located across
the bottom of the companionway frame as can be seen in the photo.
As to the sliding hatch part, a small tongue of bronze was screwed
into the aft hatch frame(which goes athwarthship) this small tongue
extends just far enough aft so that it can pierce the thickness of
your drop-board(through the slot you have made after locating its
precise postion relative to the tongue).It helps greatly if your
hatch top extends somewhat beyond the drop baord.
I hope this helps somewhat David although I am aware that
perhaps you have set things up a bit differently then me and it may
be too late to do it the same.
Good Luck and happiness!!
Peter Lenihan,
stealing time at work just to get on-line........very near the
muddy,filthy and fast moving St.Lawrence.........
--- In bolger@y..., djost@m... wrote:
> Dear Group,
> I am lost on this one.
> For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to rig the hatch
> boards and the hatch so that I can lock the boat up and keep water
> out, yet still have an operating hatch.
> Does anyone have any pictures of this?
>
> David Jost
> "getting there"
Dear Group,
I am lost on this one.
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to rig the hatch
boards and the hatch so that I can lock the boat up and keep water
out, yet still have an operating hatch.
Does anyone have any pictures of this?
David Jost
"getting there"
I am lost on this one.
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to rig the hatch
boards and the hatch so that I can lock the boat up and keep water
out, yet still have an operating hatch.
Does anyone have any pictures of this?
David Jost
"getting there"