Ryobi review at epinions.com
Check out epinions.com for review for just about anything by ordinary
people. For the Ryobi
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-
Ryobi_BT3000SX_Benchtop_Table_Saw
or any table saw
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Table_Saw
people. For the Ryobi
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-
Ryobi_BT3000SX_Benchtop_Table_Saw
or any table saw
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-All-Table_Saw
--- In bolger@y..., JohnSpoering@a... wrote:
> Hi All -
> Does anyone have any experience or knowledge af the
RIOBI 10"
> table saw. I've seen it at Home Depot and it looks very
interesting at
> $399.00 - very interesting rotary table and will take attachments
for router
> etc.
> Thanks - Jack Spoering - Florida
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You say, "I would like to buy a tablesaw."
While the conversation on "Norm" and "Japanese razor saws"
is interesting, it doesn't answer your question.
I too watch "Norm", and some of the things he
does make me nutts.
"Now just attach the trim with a few brads"
Bang Bang Bang Bang Bang.
and "Just apply a little glue." Squish Squish
(My wife cringes at the sight of all the glue
oozing from his joints, as she does the finishing
of the furniture we build.)
In fact, "Norm" may have done you a favor.
As I said earlier, I would recommend an old
Sears Belt Drive 10" table saw with a good blade.
It meets or exceeds all your "wants".
(If you still "would like to buy a table saw".)
"Norm" has caused a lot of well intentioned folks, who
watch his show, to go out and buy a brand new
table saw , believing that, they too, can "Easily" build
that "Entertainment Center" they have always wanted.
They learn almost immediatly that "Norm" does make
Woodworking "Look" easy.
Those are the folks from whom you are going to buy
Your new table saw. $100-$200 depending on how
shiny it is, and how frustrated they became.
Again, older may be better, as the tables, castings,
and adjusters seemed to have been better in the
older saws. Older = Cheaper.
For those "Tool fetishists", there Is
"The Woodwrights Shop". (Also a "Yank" btw)
Now there's a place to really learn some "Woodworking",
(metalworking, tool making, and philosophy.)
"Anyway - whatever turns you on . . ."
Most of all,
Have Fun
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
While the conversation on "Norm" and "Japanese razor saws"
is interesting, it doesn't answer your question.
I too watch "Norm", and some of the things he
does make me nutts.
"Now just attach the trim with a few brads"
Bang Bang Bang Bang Bang.
and "Just apply a little glue." Squish Squish
(My wife cringes at the sight of all the glue
oozing from his joints, as she does the finishing
of the furniture we build.)
In fact, "Norm" may have done you a favor.
As I said earlier, I would recommend an old
Sears Belt Drive 10" table saw with a good blade.
It meets or exceeds all your "wants".
(If you still "would like to buy a table saw".)
"Norm" has caused a lot of well intentioned folks, who
watch his show, to go out and buy a brand new
table saw , believing that, they too, can "Easily" build
that "Entertainment Center" they have always wanted.
They learn almost immediatly that "Norm" does make
Woodworking "Look" easy.
Those are the folks from whom you are going to buy
Your new table saw. $100-$200 depending on how
shiny it is, and how frustrated they became.
Again, older may be better, as the tables, castings,
and adjusters seemed to have been better in the
older saws. Older = Cheaper.
For those "Tool fetishists", there Is
"The Woodwrights Shop". (Also a "Yank" btw)
Now there's a place to really learn some "Woodworking",
(metalworking, tool making, and philosophy.)
"Anyway - whatever turns you on . . ."
Most of all,
Have Fun
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., kayaker37@h... wrote:
> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers
Club,
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used
one
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they
recommend
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this
month.
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I
imagine
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood,
rip
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a
seperate
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
Hi All -
Does anyone have any experience or knowledge af the RIOBI 10"
table saw. I've seen it at Home Depot and it looks very interesting at
$399.00 - very interesting rotary table and will take attachments for router
etc.
Thanks - Jack Spoering - Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Does anyone have any experience or knowledge af the RIOBI 10"
table saw. I've seen it at Home Depot and it looks very interesting at
$399.00 - very interesting rotary table and will take attachments for router
etc.
Thanks - Jack Spoering - Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have an old 1022 with an enclosed base. The vibration is or was in
the belt/motor set up. I blew the motor, and replaced it with a 3 hp
motor, which to make a long story short, did not fit the mounting, and
turned the other direction. I made a new mount, and it runs smoothly.
If I was to buy a table saw again right now with money not a concern,
I would get a Delta Unisaw with a Beismeyer fence. Other wise the
Grizzly G1023 is on sale right now with the Shop Fox fence, and I wish
I had gotten it originally.
Thanks for the website on the homebuilt fence. It has me thinking.
I made my own inserts, I glued two pieces of masonite together (1/2"
melamine would work also), stuck them to the stock insert with double
sided tape, and used a router to cut them out. I counter sank little
screws where the little support pads are, to level it with the table
top. Inserts cost around $20, so it is worth your time to make them.
I have three blades I use, the Carnell blade for laminates, plywood
and rough ripping, a Freud 8" high quality ripping blade for glue line
ripping, and a 10" high quality blade for ripping thicker stock.
HJ
the belt/motor set up. I blew the motor, and replaced it with a 3 hp
motor, which to make a long story short, did not fit the mounting, and
turned the other direction. I made a new mount, and it runs smoothly.
If I was to buy a table saw again right now with money not a concern,
I would get a Delta Unisaw with a Beismeyer fence. Other wise the
Grizzly G1023 is on sale right now with the Shop Fox fence, and I wish
I had gotten it originally.
Thanks for the website on the homebuilt fence. It has me thinking.
I made my own inserts, I glued two pieces of masonite together (1/2"
melamine would work also), stuck them to the stock insert with double
sided tape, and used a router to cut them out. I counter sank little
screws where the little support pads are, to level it with the table
top. Inserts cost around $20, so it is worth your time to make them.
I have three blades I use, the Carnell blade for laminates, plywood
and rough ripping, a Freud 8" high quality ripping blade for glue line
ripping, and a 10" high quality blade for ripping thicker stock.
HJ
> Which Grizzly do you have? The 1022 or 1023 series? From what reviews
> I've read the 1022 has some vibration problems. Some models have the
> Shop Fox® Fence, is this any better? The 1023 looks real nice, and
> some people have their own personal web pages covering setup on this
> model, check out
>
>
For fence plans try Building a Clone of a Biesemeyer Table Saw Fence
http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/fence/fence.htmlthat comes with
the warning "Be warned that this project is a lot of work, and it is
not all that cheap."
Which Grizzly do you have? The 1022 or 1023 series? From what reviews
I've read the 1022 has some vibration problems. Some models have the
Shop Fox® Fence, is this any better? The 1023 looks real nice, and
some people have their own personal web pages covering setup on this
model, check out
http://www.cjohnhebert.com/Grizzly%201023.htm
I like the Dewalt DW746X but at that price I could get the G1023S110
or G1023S. The fact that I have no room is besides the point. I
suppose the Dewalt Model DW 744 would be the most practical.
If your cutting 1 1/2 inch strips off of 2x stock, does it matter the
precision of the saw? In other words is a table top fine for this
such as the Dewalt 744, or the Makita 2703? I'm looking at saws in
the table top, contractor, and low end cabinet categories, but I
haven't figured out what category I need.
Somehow I feel like a kid looking at the Sears Christmas Toy catalog,
who can't make up his mind.
http://www.tdl.com/~swensen/machines/fence/fence.htmlthat comes with
the warning "Be warned that this project is a lot of work, and it is
not all that cheap."
Which Grizzly do you have? The 1022 or 1023 series? From what reviews
I've read the 1022 has some vibration problems. Some models have the
Shop Fox® Fence, is this any better? The 1023 looks real nice, and
some people have their own personal web pages covering setup on this
model, check out
http://www.cjohnhebert.com/Grizzly%201023.htm
I like the Dewalt DW746X but at that price I could get the G1023S110
or G1023S. The fact that I have no room is besides the point. I
suppose the Dewalt Model DW 744 would be the most practical.
If your cutting 1 1/2 inch strips off of 2x stock, does it matter the
precision of the saw? In other words is a table top fine for this
such as the Dewalt 744, or the Makita 2703? I'm looking at saws in
the table top, contractor, and low end cabinet categories, but I
haven't figured out what category I need.
Somehow I feel like a kid looking at the Sears Christmas Toy catalog,
who can't make up his mind.
> lots of stuff. I have a cheap grizzly table saw, which runs well and
> cuts straight, but infuriates me because of the fence. A table saw
> should have a fence that will align true or square every time, and
> have a gage that is accurate so that when you set 6" and 5/16 on the
> gage, that's what you get, without tapping the fence back and forth
> using the tape measure. I continue to use the old fence, because a
> decent fence costs as much as the saw did. If anybody has the plans
> for a home made fence that is easy to use and accurate, I would
> appreciate it.
Looking at all the replies to this post, it appears that tool
preference is just as variable as taste in women or boats. I am
blessed with a house designed around the 24x32 ft shop, equipped with
lots of stuff. I have a cheap grizzly table saw, which runs well and
cuts straight, but infuriates me because of the fence. A table saw
should have a fence that will align true or square every time, and
have a gage that is accurate so that when you set 6" and 5/16 on the
gage, that's what you get, without tapping the fence back and forth
using the tape measure. I continue to use the old fence, because a
decent fence costs as much as the saw did. If anybody has the plans
for a home made fence that is easy to use and accurate, I would
appreciate it.
Using a skilsaw on plywood is easier than working it on a table saw.
Saw weight shouldn't make a difference as the plywood carries the
weight. The blades that Dave Carnell sells are the best for plywood or
laminates.http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/.I find that it is very
easy to put plywood on two or three sawhorses and cut out shaped
panels for stitch and glue with a skilsaw. Using Carnell's blades and
a clamped straight edge, you can do very high quality work with ply
wood. A model 77 skill wormdrive is heavy, bullet proof (one per
lifetime) and inexpensive in second hand stores.
I use a Hitachi Chop saw and a high quality cross cut blade for my
beveled cuts, I find it very fast, and accurate.
I have a radial arm saw set on a 20 ft bench with a tape and very
accurate stop set on the fence. When I set the stop on a measurement,
that is exactly what I get. I am thinking of replacing the chop saw
and the radial arm saw with a sliding compound saw mounted on the
bench. I put a cheap carbide blade in the radial arm saw and cut
aluminum.
I love my planer.
I believe in production set up, where I spend minimum time fitting,
measuring, fussing and maximum getting out the product with lots of
use of machinery, set up accurately to make up for my skill defects.
On the other hand, I watched my father and brother build a 16' ski
boat hull in one 3 day weekend using nothing but hand tools, as we
lived beyond the reach of the power lines. Sharp tools, plus skill and
experience that I will never match.
HJ
kayaker37@...wrote:
preference is just as variable as taste in women or boats. I am
blessed with a house designed around the 24x32 ft shop, equipped with
lots of stuff. I have a cheap grizzly table saw, which runs well and
cuts straight, but infuriates me because of the fence. A table saw
should have a fence that will align true or square every time, and
have a gage that is accurate so that when you set 6" and 5/16 on the
gage, that's what you get, without tapping the fence back and forth
using the tape measure. I continue to use the old fence, because a
decent fence costs as much as the saw did. If anybody has the plans
for a home made fence that is easy to use and accurate, I would
appreciate it.
Using a skilsaw on plywood is easier than working it on a table saw.
Saw weight shouldn't make a difference as the plywood carries the
weight. The blades that Dave Carnell sells are the best for plywood or
laminates.http://home.att.net/~DaveCarnell/.I find that it is very
easy to put plywood on two or three sawhorses and cut out shaped
panels for stitch and glue with a skilsaw. Using Carnell's blades and
a clamped straight edge, you can do very high quality work with ply
wood. A model 77 skill wormdrive is heavy, bullet proof (one per
lifetime) and inexpensive in second hand stores.
I use a Hitachi Chop saw and a high quality cross cut blade for my
beveled cuts, I find it very fast, and accurate.
I have a radial arm saw set on a 20 ft bench with a tape and very
accurate stop set on the fence. When I set the stop on a measurement,
that is exactly what I get. I am thinking of replacing the chop saw
and the radial arm saw with a sliding compound saw mounted on the
bench. I put a cheap carbide blade in the radial arm saw and cut
aluminum.
I love my planer.
I believe in production set up, where I spend minimum time fitting,
measuring, fussing and maximum getting out the product with lots of
use of machinery, set up accurately to make up for my skill defects.
On the other hand, I watched my father and brother build a 16' ski
boat hull in one 3 day weekend using nothing but hand tools, as we
lived beyond the reach of the power lines. Sharp tools, plus skill and
experience that I will never match.
HJ
kayaker37@...wrote:
>
> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers Club,
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used one
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they recommend
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this month.
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I imagine
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood, rip
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a seperate
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> --
I second the comment that before you get a good table saw for boatbuliding, you need a good circular
saw. I have 2, a 10 lb craftsman 6.5" a worn out skil 7.25" and a new no name brand (ok, so i cant
think of it right now, and i don't want to go look) 6.5" the new one came with a very thin blade,
and weighs almost nothing. it cuts even fairly sharp curves very very well. it will do a lot of
things that the table saw doesn't like to, and given a lot more time, it will adequately do most of
the things the table saw does very well.
I'll add to the table saw issue :-)
for any saw, the blade is the most important part. i bought a 10" delta table saw for $95 new. it
came with a 40t combination blade. i bought a $30 80t replacement blade, that was supposed to make
much finer cuts. it made the saw wander no matter what i cut, its kerf is almost twice that of the
one that came with the saw, and it chewed up both edges of the wood (plywood, hardwood, particle
board, cedar). I went back to the slightly dull original blade and i am still happy with it
(eventually i will buy an identical replacement, or try to find someone to sharpen it). the 12 inch
rigid compound miter saw is absolutely wonderful as well, and well worth the $296. it has no faults
i can find, even cutting old growth 8"x10" douglas fir and wet, rough 2x10s all day.
enough rambling for now :-)
Richard
saw. I have 2, a 10 lb craftsman 6.5" a worn out skil 7.25" and a new no name brand (ok, so i cant
think of it right now, and i don't want to go look) 6.5" the new one came with a very thin blade,
and weighs almost nothing. it cuts even fairly sharp curves very very well. it will do a lot of
things that the table saw doesn't like to, and given a lot more time, it will adequately do most of
the things the table saw does very well.
I'll add to the table saw issue :-)
for any saw, the blade is the most important part. i bought a 10" delta table saw for $95 new. it
came with a 40t combination blade. i bought a $30 80t replacement blade, that was supposed to make
much finer cuts. it made the saw wander no matter what i cut, its kerf is almost twice that of the
one that came with the saw, and it chewed up both edges of the wood (plywood, hardwood, particle
board, cedar). I went back to the slightly dull original blade and i am still happy with it
(eventually i will buy an identical replacement, or try to find someone to sharpen it). the 12 inch
rigid compound miter saw is absolutely wonderful as well, and well worth the $296. it has no faults
i can find, even cutting old growth 8"x10" douglas fir and wet, rough 2x10s all day.
enough rambling for now :-)
Richard
I built a Gypsy this past spring using a Craftsman reciprocal saw to cut the (1/4") plywood. I used a hacksaw blade with the teeth
side up and the result was like a giant sabre saw. There was plenty of power for fast cuts and the hacksaw blade didn't tear up the
wood too much. I flopped the sheet onto 4-5 plastic milk crates and held the sheet with my foot as I cut. The system was fast and
safe. Granted the cuts came out a bit rough at times, but that was easily cleaned up with a plane.
T Comrie
side up and the result was like a giant sabre saw. There was plenty of power for fast cuts and the hacksaw blade didn't tear up the
wood too much. I flopped the sheet onto 4-5 plastic milk crates and held the sheet with my foot as I cut. The system was fast and
safe. Granted the cuts came out a bit rough at times, but that was easily cleaned up with a plane.
T Comrie
--- In bolger@y..., kayaker37@h... wrote:
> Speaking of circular saws, I bought a Craftsman on sale years ago
> with a 7 1/4 inch blade and 2 1/8 horsepower. My wife tried it this
> weekend and mentioned that it was heavy, large, and difficult to
> handle, which i agree with. I know people have cut curved sections
> out of plywood with circ saws, is this saw just too heavy? I was
> wondering if they made small, light ones with smaller blades that
> would be just right for cutting plywood? Is this what I get for
> buying lowend Craftsman stuff, or did I buy the wrong kind of saw?
>
> Thanks for the comments on the table saw. I have a modest budget.
> Birdwatchers ply sides are plywood sheets ripped lengthwise at 22.75
> inches wide, no curve just straight cut. Most lumber yards will rip
> it down the middle no problem, I would just have to knock off a small
> amount. Lots of bevelling though.
>
>
> > top. I wish it were a 10" model. However, most of the work is
> done
> > with your circular saw. don't skimp on this tool, it will come
> back
> > to haunt you.
> > I have just about finished all of the woodworking on Micro, and
> > most of it was ripped with a fence and the skilsaw. I use the
A thought for you all. I have a Makita 9 1.4 " ( probably like a US
10" ) circular saw Drill 4 holes in the steel base plate and bolt
it to a sheet of 3/4 chipboard, turn upside down and clmp onto 2
sawhorses. clamp on a cutting guide and Voila !! a table saw . I
later wired up a power point to the board when my wife discovered
that I'd used sticky tape to hold the on switch on!!. It all packs
away afterwards .
I dont bother to pre-mitre my strips of wood , prefering to
handplane them afterwards. this gives me the opportunity to walk
barefoot through piles of woodshavings, a very satisfying thing
indeed.
i agree with those that recommend not pushing your saw and keeping
it sharp . the se are all reasons for the demise of my first saw.
in regard to brand names. and quality, when buying power tools I
tend to find a shop with tools I can pik up and compare the wieght of
the motor part, not the rated power. My theory, more copper annd
magnets = longer life and better unit. you can often get a pleasant
suprise..
Iread a review once on testing 14v battery drills. the DeWalt was
twice the price but rated worst! . I believe that model is no longer
available in Australia. In the last few years there has been a flush
of very cheap gear ( $ 100 Aus for a drill, sander and jigsaw set).
as you can imagine all crapand no warranty.
any help, cheers Paul
10" ) circular saw Drill 4 holes in the steel base plate and bolt
it to a sheet of 3/4 chipboard, turn upside down and clmp onto 2
sawhorses. clamp on a cutting guide and Voila !! a table saw . I
later wired up a power point to the board when my wife discovered
that I'd used sticky tape to hold the on switch on!!. It all packs
away afterwards .
I dont bother to pre-mitre my strips of wood , prefering to
handplane them afterwards. this gives me the opportunity to walk
barefoot through piles of woodshavings, a very satisfying thing
indeed.
i agree with those that recommend not pushing your saw and keeping
it sharp . the se are all reasons for the demise of my first saw.
in regard to brand names. and quality, when buying power tools I
tend to find a shop with tools I can pik up and compare the wieght of
the motor part, not the rated power. My theory, more copper annd
magnets = longer life and better unit. you can often get a pleasant
suprise..
Iread a review once on testing 14v battery drills. the DeWalt was
twice the price but rated worst! . I believe that model is no longer
available in Australia. In the last few years there has been a flush
of very cheap gear ( $ 100 Aus for a drill, sander and jigsaw set).
as you can imagine all crapand no warranty.
any help, cheers Paul
I have been a furniture builder for over 25 years.
I currently have a Rockwell 10" Unisaw. 3 HP
Very nice. I make my living with it.
Rockwell "Contractor's Saw" is also nice, but still
spendy, and probably more saw than you need,
unless you are stinking rich, and then this conversation
is moot.
I did manage to cut the end of my left thumb off
with it, but it took almost 25 years.
If you are not in a great hurry, look in the Newspaper
for a used Sears 10" Belt drive tabel saw. 2~HP
(Not "Motorized" type, with blade connected directly
to motor).
Older May be better, as long as the motor is OK.
Bearings can be replaced if necessary, but will
most likely be OK. Check that fence is not too
worn or broken and will tighten snuggly.
Out of square is OK as that is easily
adjusted, and could be a "Bargaining Point."
A lot of people buy them new, and only use them a
couple of times, and decide they don't really like
woodworking.
I used one for several years, until I could afford
my Unisaw. Worked fine if not pushed too hard.
Don't push it too hard.
Fence will cut to more than 24"
If you have room, build a table around it to support
large pieces of plywood, especially outfeed.
For cutoff work, large, or angled cuts build a
"Sliding Table".
Do buy a Good 50 tooth Combination Carbide blade.
Systematic or Freud are good. About $45-$60 depending
on where you buy. Saw is only as good as the blade.
Be carful with it, (no nails) and have it sharpened
Befor it gets dull.
A good blade should last you a Long time.
Also initial setup and allignment are very important.
Take your time there, and you will save much
aggravation later.
Do keep table and fence clean and well "waxed".
Miter saw would be nice. Compound sliding even nicer,
but not necessary. Again, check paper for used one.
Table saw will be "Close" but not as close as
a miter saw, and table saw much more trouble.
You will be glad you bought it. (Especially for
"nibbling" a close joint.)
If you are just going to build one boat.
Buy a used one and then sell it when you are done.
Feel free to email me if you need any more information.
I can tell you One way not to cut the end of your
thumb off. But there are thousands of ways to hurt
yourself. Never use it if you are tired, distracted,
or feel uncomfortable makeing a cut.
Be careful, respect it, but have Fun.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
I currently have a Rockwell 10" Unisaw. 3 HP
Very nice. I make my living with it.
Rockwell "Contractor's Saw" is also nice, but still
spendy, and probably more saw than you need,
unless you are stinking rich, and then this conversation
is moot.
I did manage to cut the end of my left thumb off
with it, but it took almost 25 years.
If you are not in a great hurry, look in the Newspaper
for a used Sears 10" Belt drive tabel saw. 2~HP
(Not "Motorized" type, with blade connected directly
to motor).
Older May be better, as long as the motor is OK.
Bearings can be replaced if necessary, but will
most likely be OK. Check that fence is not too
worn or broken and will tighten snuggly.
Out of square is OK as that is easily
adjusted, and could be a "Bargaining Point."
A lot of people buy them new, and only use them a
couple of times, and decide they don't really like
woodworking.
I used one for several years, until I could afford
my Unisaw. Worked fine if not pushed too hard.
Don't push it too hard.
Fence will cut to more than 24"
If you have room, build a table around it to support
large pieces of plywood, especially outfeed.
For cutoff work, large, or angled cuts build a
"Sliding Table".
Do buy a Good 50 tooth Combination Carbide blade.
Systematic or Freud are good. About $45-$60 depending
on where you buy. Saw is only as good as the blade.
Be carful with it, (no nails) and have it sharpened
Befor it gets dull.
A good blade should last you a Long time.
Also initial setup and allignment are very important.
Take your time there, and you will save much
aggravation later.
Do keep table and fence clean and well "waxed".
Miter saw would be nice. Compound sliding even nicer,
but not necessary. Again, check paper for used one.
Table saw will be "Close" but not as close as
a miter saw, and table saw much more trouble.
You will be glad you bought it. (Especially for
"nibbling" a close joint.)
If you are just going to build one boat.
Buy a used one and then sell it when you are done.
Feel free to email me if you need any more information.
I can tell you One way not to cut the end of your
thumb off. But there are thousands of ways to hurt
yourself. Never use it if you are tired, distracted,
or feel uncomfortable makeing a cut.
Be careful, respect it, but have Fun.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., kayaker37@h... wrote:
> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers
Club,
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used
one
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they
recommend
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this
month.
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I
imagine
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood,
rip
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a
seperate
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
Hi,
I am in agreement with most of the reccomendations I have seen that replied
to your question.
In my experience a good electric hand saw will do ripping of plywood more
easily than a table saw.
I have a 10" Rockwell table saw that is great for cutting dimensional lumber
but if I could only have
one of the two I would take the handsaw hands down. (no pun intended)
Caveat: I have only built two boats and am no expert!!
James Fuller
I am in agreement with most of the reccomendations I have seen that replied
to your question.
In my experience a good electric hand saw will do ripping of plywood more
easily than a table saw.
I have a 10" Rockwell table saw that is great for cutting dimensional lumber
but if I could only have
one of the two I would take the handsaw hands down. (no pun intended)
Caveat: I have only built two boats and am no expert!!
James Fuller
Speaking of circular saws, I bought a Craftsman on sale years ago
with a 7 1/4 inch blade and 2 1/8 horsepower. My wife tried it this
weekend and mentioned that it was heavy, large, and difficult to
handle, which i agree with. I know people have cut curved sections
out of plywood with circ saws, is this saw just too heavy? I was
wondering if they made small, light ones with smaller blades that
would be just right for cutting plywood? Is this what I get for
buying lowend Craftsman stuff, or did I buy the wrong kind of saw?
Thanks for the comments on the table saw. I have a modest budget.
Birdwatchers ply sides are plywood sheets ripped lengthwise at 22.75
inches wide, no curve just straight cut. Most lumber yards will rip
it down the middle no problem, I would just have to knock off a small
amount. Lots of bevelling though.
with a 7 1/4 inch blade and 2 1/8 horsepower. My wife tried it this
weekend and mentioned that it was heavy, large, and difficult to
handle, which i agree with. I know people have cut curved sections
out of plywood with circ saws, is this saw just too heavy? I was
wondering if they made small, light ones with smaller blades that
would be just right for cutting plywood? Is this what I get for
buying lowend Craftsman stuff, or did I buy the wrong kind of saw?
Thanks for the comments on the table saw. I have a modest budget.
Birdwatchers ply sides are plywood sheets ripped lengthwise at 22.75
inches wide, no curve just straight cut. Most lumber yards will rip
it down the middle no problem, I would just have to knock off a small
amount. Lots of bevelling though.
> top. I wish it were a 10" model. However, most of the work isdone
> with your circular saw. don't skimp on this tool, it will comeback
> to haunt you.
> I have just about finished all of the woodworking on Micro, and
> most of it was ripped with a fence and the skilsaw. I use the
I agree with Paul,
I have an 8" Delta portable table saw with a polycarbonate (plastic)
top. I wish it were a 10" model. However, most of the work is done
with your circular saw. don't skimp on this tool, it will come back
to haunt you.
I have just about finished all of the woodworking on Micro, and
most of it was ripped with a fence and the skilsaw. I use the table
saw for mitering and making lots of similar cuts that demand
accuracy. Its a shame that I am such a lousy carpenter, without
these tools I would be helpless.
My toolbox includes:
Block Plane - don't leave home without one
Hammer
electric screwdriver drill thingy
chisels - 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1"
assorted screwdrivers
bevel gauge
compass
tape measure (both metric and english)
straight edge
Large Square - great for lining off the parallel edges on plywood
adjustable tri-square
4 saw horses - build them first.
belt sander
electric plane - yes, I'm a wus.
7 1/2" circular saw
right angle grinder
portable table saw
electric drill
palm sander
David Jost
"rarin' to fire up the old belt sander for some sander races "kids
love em" do I hear the ToolTime grunt!
I have an 8" Delta portable table saw with a polycarbonate (plastic)
top. I wish it were a 10" model. However, most of the work is done
with your circular saw. don't skimp on this tool, it will come back
to haunt you.
I have just about finished all of the woodworking on Micro, and
most of it was ripped with a fence and the skilsaw. I use the table
saw for mitering and making lots of similar cuts that demand
accuracy. Its a shame that I am such a lousy carpenter, without
these tools I would be helpless.
My toolbox includes:
Block Plane - don't leave home without one
Hammer
electric screwdriver drill thingy
chisels - 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1"
assorted screwdrivers
bevel gauge
compass
tape measure (both metric and english)
straight edge
Large Square - great for lining off the parallel edges on plywood
adjustable tri-square
4 saw horses - build them first.
belt sander
electric plane - yes, I'm a wus.
7 1/2" circular saw
right angle grinder
portable table saw
electric drill
palm sander
David Jost
"rarin' to fire up the old belt sander for some sander races "kids
love em" do I hear the ToolTime grunt!
Hey Paul,
I've been a professional carpenter for almost twenty years and would like to
share what I know about saws. First off a $900.00 saw is more than what most
guys that earn a living doing carpentry need. If you have the money for that
saw I suggest that the funds would be better invested in a power miter and a
less expensive but still good quality table saw. I use both portable and
stationary tools for my work.
If shop space is limited check out the Makita table saw. With a home built
out feed table you can handle most of the same stock as with a full size
table saw. I have owned 2 Makitas in the last 18 years. When my first one
died I purchased a Delta table top and the a Craftsmen table top which I
burnt out the motors in each within a couple of months so I went back to the
Makita. The Makita will take a licken and keep on ticken.
If you have the room a Delta 10" contractors saw is a nice piece of equipment
and again with a home built outfeed table will cut anything you throw at it.
I've had mine about 15 years. Although it does not get as much use as my
Makita which I use daily on the job site.
If you purchase a chop saw consider one with compound miter capabilities. I
use mine for crown moldings but compound angles are very common in boat
building. The dream machine in miter saws is a slide miter. Hitachi and
Dewalt both make very nice compound slide miters but they are both on the
expensive side for home use. We used our 8 1/4" Hitachi daily for about 12
years, banging it in and out of vans and such and it never looses it angle
settings. I now use a 12" Dewalt, it has great large lumber and trim
capabilities but it is a large and heavy tool. I also use a small 10" Delta
comp. miter (no slide) in the shop this would handle most any boat building
task and is very inexpensive.
In my humble opinion
Large shop and budget:
10" contractor saw with unifence and Hitachia slide miter
Small shop with moderate budget
Makita table top saw with a Delta 10" compound miter
Hope this helps
Jim Stumpf
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've been a professional carpenter for almost twenty years and would like to
share what I know about saws. First off a $900.00 saw is more than what most
guys that earn a living doing carpentry need. If you have the money for that
saw I suggest that the funds would be better invested in a power miter and a
less expensive but still good quality table saw. I use both portable and
stationary tools for my work.
If shop space is limited check out the Makita table saw. With a home built
out feed table you can handle most of the same stock as with a full size
table saw. I have owned 2 Makitas in the last 18 years. When my first one
died I purchased a Delta table top and the a Craftsmen table top which I
burnt out the motors in each within a couple of months so I went back to the
Makita. The Makita will take a licken and keep on ticken.
If you have the room a Delta 10" contractors saw is a nice piece of equipment
and again with a home built outfeed table will cut anything you throw at it.
I've had mine about 15 years. Although it does not get as much use as my
Makita which I use daily on the job site.
If you purchase a chop saw consider one with compound miter capabilities. I
use mine for crown moldings but compound angles are very common in boat
building. The dream machine in miter saws is a slide miter. Hitachi and
Dewalt both make very nice compound slide miters but they are both on the
expensive side for home use. We used our 8 1/4" Hitachi daily for about 12
years, banging it in and out of vans and such and it never looses it angle
settings. I now use a 12" Dewalt, it has great large lumber and trim
capabilities but it is a large and heavy tool. I also use a small 10" Delta
comp. miter (no slide) in the shop this would handle most any boat building
task and is very inexpensive.
In my humble opinion
Large shop and budget:
10" contractor saw with unifence and Hitachia slide miter
Small shop with moderate budget
Makita table top saw with a Delta 10" compound miter
Hope this helps
Jim Stumpf
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think most saws will handle the mitering, ripping, etc.; some smaller ones
may not like ripping hardwoods if you intend to use any in your boat.... The
limiting factor will be ability to handle large sheets - very few saws
within reach of the home boatbuilder excel at this. The saws with the big
extension tables for handling sheet stock are over $1000, or you can build
your own tables or make do; I don't have the space for a setup that large.
in Fred Bingham's book 'Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking simplified' he has a
sketch of a rig he made for a small portable tablesaw, to make it able to do
most of the work of large floor models but easy to haul around, store, or
even take with you inside your boat as you do the final finishing and
fitting out. The book has lots of great ideas for doing more with less, or
making your own, building jigs for more precise work, as well as great
sketches and explanations of all the best joints for drawers, doghouse
framing, companionways, etc. I think it's worth the price. I believe they
also sell folding metal and wood rigs to hold small portable saws, but with
enough wings to handle sheet stock - check it out. But you shouldn't have to
spend $899 on a saw unless you are really setting up your dream shop - the
little ones will get it done. My 'dream saw' is my 10" Delta which cost me
$500 - can't rationally justify owning the thing for hobbies and home
improvement - though it is just a treat to use and it does excellent work,
it's much more saw than I really need; but a lifelong professional carpenter
buddy of mine has a portable Makita he totes everywhere, does all his work
on it, propped up on milk crates.....
Paul L.
may not like ripping hardwoods if you intend to use any in your boat.... The
limiting factor will be ability to handle large sheets - very few saws
within reach of the home boatbuilder excel at this. The saws with the big
extension tables for handling sheet stock are over $1000, or you can build
your own tables or make do; I don't have the space for a setup that large.
in Fred Bingham's book 'Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking simplified' he has a
sketch of a rig he made for a small portable tablesaw, to make it able to do
most of the work of large floor models but easy to haul around, store, or
even take with you inside your boat as you do the final finishing and
fitting out. The book has lots of great ideas for doing more with less, or
making your own, building jigs for more precise work, as well as great
sketches and explanations of all the best joints for drawers, doghouse
framing, companionways, etc. I think it's worth the price. I believe they
also sell folding metal and wood rigs to hold small portable saws, but with
enough wings to handle sheet stock - check it out. But you shouldn't have to
spend $899 on a saw unless you are really setting up your dream shop - the
little ones will get it done. My 'dream saw' is my 10" Delta which cost me
$500 - can't rationally justify owning the thing for hobbies and home
improvement - though it is just a treat to use and it does excellent work,
it's much more saw than I really need; but a lifelong professional carpenter
buddy of mine has a portable Makita he totes everywhere, does all his work
on it, propped up on milk crates.....
Paul L.
I have a small table top model from Home Depot that works very well. You
can't rip sheets of plywood with it because there is no supports and you
always end up rounding up your cuts. I always use a rip fence clamped to
the plywood and just cut strips with my circular power saw. Works great and
do able for one person.
For ripping 2 X 4 stock it works great. I've ripped up about 70 board feet
of very hard white ash (1" thick) and it gnaws right through with
complaining too much at all and I've run it continuously for 20 minutes
before.
Popular Mechanics has a write up this month on table saws and gives the good
and bad of most popular models. I'd check it out for a couple of dollars to
get an idea of retail prices and capabilities. Mine is in there with good
comments, just can't remember the name of it right now but I paid $129.00
for it. I just bolted it to a couple of 2" X 4" X 4' and lay it across my
saw horses when I have serious cutting to do and it's very stable that way.
Otherwise it sits up out of the way on a shelf.
Jeff
can't rip sheets of plywood with it because there is no supports and you
always end up rounding up your cuts. I always use a rip fence clamped to
the plywood and just cut strips with my circular power saw. Works great and
do able for one person.
For ripping 2 X 4 stock it works great. I've ripped up about 70 board feet
of very hard white ash (1" thick) and it gnaws right through with
complaining too much at all and I've run it continuously for 20 minutes
before.
Popular Mechanics has a write up this month on table saws and gives the good
and bad of most popular models. I'd check it out for a couple of dollars to
get an idea of retail prices and capabilities. Mine is in there with good
comments, just can't remember the name of it right now but I paid $129.00
for it. I just bolted it to a couple of 2" X 4" X 4' and lay it across my
saw horses when I have serious cutting to do and it's very stable that way.
Otherwise it sits up out of the way on a shelf.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <kayaker37@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 2:57 PM
Subject: [bolger] tablesaw recommendations?
> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers Club,
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used one
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they recommend
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this month.
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I imagine
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood, rip
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a seperate
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers Club,
so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used one
before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they recommend
the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this month.
The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I imagine
the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood, rip
framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a seperate
chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
Thanks,
Paul
so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used one
before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they recommend
the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this month.
The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I imagine
the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood, rip
framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a seperate
chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
Thanks,
Paul