Re: Tools...
I have found that a 4" flap disk in a right angle grinder works very
well for hollowing joints. I am referring to the kind that are designed
with overlapping layers of abrasive like when you fan a deck of cards,
not the type that are like the paddles on a water wheel. I have found
them in 40 grit at Home depot. They last a long time and remove
material fast.
Vince Chew
well for hollowing joints. I am referring to the kind that are designed
with overlapping layers of abrasive like when you fan a deck of cards,
not the type that are like the paddles on a water wheel. I have found
them in 40 grit at Home depot. They last a long time and remove
material fast.
Vince Chew
Dave,
check it out here,under the title "hollow"
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/How%20To/
sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
check it out here,under the title "hollow"
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/How%20To/
sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., dave1776us@y... wrote:
> Peter Lenihan wrote:
>
> > ...
> > However,when I want to sound busy or just need to rattle my
> > brain with white noise,I use ...,the
> > right-angle grinder modified for sanding(see Bolger"Files"
> > section). ...
>
> I can't find anything in the Files section that shows or mentions a
> modified right-angle grinder. Will somebody please give me a URL or
> something to help?
>
> Thanks, dave
Peter Lenihan wrote:
modified right-angle grinder. Will somebody please give me a URL or
something to help?
Thanks, dave
> ...I can't find anything in the Files section that shows or mentions a
> However,when I want to sound busy or just need to rattle my
> brain with white noise,I use ...,the
> right-angle grinder modified for sanding(see Bolger"Files"
> section). ...
modified right-angle grinder. Will somebody please give me a URL or
something to help?
Thanks, dave
Rich,
I like your item 10,except I'll take the heated version! Other then
that,eternal poverty allows me to constantly re-discover the joys of
working with hand saws(cross-cut and rip),hand
planes(block,snub-nose,low angle,finishing,rabbet and jack),a nice set
of Sandvik chissels(1/4" up to 2"), an old Stanley two speed manual
drill(egg-beater),and a complete set of Robertson drive(square drive)
screw drivers.A couple of dozen 10" C-clamps rounds out the hand
powered stuff.
However,when I want to sound busy or just need to rattle my brain
with white noise,I use a jig saw,a 1/2" variable speed reversable
corded drill or my all time favorite boatbuilding wonder tool,the
right-angle grinder modified for sanding(see Bolger"Files"
section).This odd-ball collection of tools has gotten me through a
Bolger SURF,Redmonds ELVER and Bolgers MICRO.I have been fortunate to
live in an area where there are few wood workers thus have been spared
the corrupting influence of "fully equiped" nice shops.
Only my dreams are haunted by visions of table saws,band
saws,thickness planers,skilled workers,robust bank balances etc....
Happy Building!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from the shores of the overcast St.Lawrence......
I like your item 10,except I'll take the heated version! Other then
that,eternal poverty allows me to constantly re-discover the joys of
working with hand saws(cross-cut and rip),hand
planes(block,snub-nose,low angle,finishing,rabbet and jack),a nice set
of Sandvik chissels(1/4" up to 2"), an old Stanley two speed manual
drill(egg-beater),and a complete set of Robertson drive(square drive)
screw drivers.A couple of dozen 10" C-clamps rounds out the hand
powered stuff.
However,when I want to sound busy or just need to rattle my brain
with white noise,I use a jig saw,a 1/2" variable speed reversable
corded drill or my all time favorite boatbuilding wonder tool,the
right-angle grinder modified for sanding(see Bolger"Files"
section).This odd-ball collection of tools has gotten me through a
Bolger SURF,Redmonds ELVER and Bolgers MICRO.I have been fortunate to
live in an area where there are few wood workers thus have been spared
the corrupting influence of "fully equiped" nice shops.
Only my dreams are haunted by visions of table saws,band
saws,thickness planers,skilled workers,robust bank balances etc....
Happy Building!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,from the shores of the overcast St.Lawrence......
--- In bolger@y..., thedemings@n... wrote:
> For the small boats I've built so far
> in order of preference, my top ten list;
>
> 1) hand tools (saws, chisels, files, planes, etc..) #1 because even
> without electricity I can still build with them.
> 2) Jig saw
> 3) corded drill with 5" sanding disc
> 4) variable speed/reversing cordless drill
> 5) orbital sander
> 6) pad sander & belt sander
> 7) circular saw
> 8) band saw (which I don't have, but wish I did)
> 9) table saw
> 10) a big enclosed shop with AC (now here is a dream!)
>
> Rich
>http://members.fortunecity.com/smallboat/
>
For the small boats I've built so far
in order of preference, my top ten list;
1) hand tools (saws, chisels, files, planes, etc..) #1 because even
without electricity I can still build with them.
2) Jig saw
3) corded drill with 5" sanding disc
4) variable speed/reversing cordless drill
5) orbital sander
6) pad sander & belt sander
7) circular saw
8) band saw (which I don't have, but wish I did)
9) table saw
10) a big enclosed shop with AC (now here is a dream!)
Rich
http://members.fortunecity.com/smallboat/
in order of preference, my top ten list;
1) hand tools (saws, chisels, files, planes, etc..) #1 because even
without electricity I can still build with them.
2) Jig saw
3) corded drill with 5" sanding disc
4) variable speed/reversing cordless drill
5) orbital sander
6) pad sander & belt sander
7) circular saw
8) band saw (which I don't have, but wish I did)
9) table saw
10) a big enclosed shop with AC (now here is a dream!)
Rich
http://members.fortunecity.com/smallboat/
--- In bolger@y..., tom <tkremer@s...> wrote:
> > Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers
Club,
> > so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used
one
> > before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they
recommend
> > the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this
month.
> > The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I
imagine
> > the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> > build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood,
rip
> > framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> > suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
> >
> > Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a
seperate
> > chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Paul
>
> Back when I had a really well equipped shop to work in (the
Sausalito
> Boatbuilders Co-op) and had my choice of just about every big power
tool
> ever invented I found I did more than 90% of my cutting on one of
the
> bandsaws, either one of the 14" or a fine old 28" that could really
cut
> some wood right where you wanted it to.
>
> A table saw isn't a boatbuilding tool at all and the chop saw is
best
> left to the unskilled hammer mechanics who throw up crappily built
> big-box houses made of wet soft pine 2"x4"s and particle board.
>
> Miter cutting can be done with a gauge and a handsaw, or for that
matter
> on a bandsaw equipped with a bevel gauge. For rough ripping a
circular
> saw will do, for finer work use the bandsaw.
>
> A decent 14" or better bandsaw with a 1/2 inch blade is the first
big
> tool you should have. I have used one of the Grizzly ones that
sells for
> about $300 and it is fine for the serious amateur, do not waste
money on
> one of those little 9" ones with 1/4" blades.
>
> Here is my list in order of value for the garage boatyard...
>
> A selection of the necessary hand tools (and it seems the longer
you do
> this the more hand tools you think are "necessary")
>
> A good woodworker's bench
>
> A bandsaw (with the table at the same height as the work bench)
>
> A thickness planer (once again on a level with the bench)
>
> Tom K
I agree that a table saw is not needed for most boat
building. I have one, and occasionally use it, but
the bandsaw is far more useful. I would say that even
if it couldn't cut curves. It is just great for
breaking down solid would, and quickly cutting out
frames and joints. After that for stationary tools, I
would vote for the planner.
The largest project I have built to date was a Kurt
Hughes Trimaran, but I have built lot of other boats,
many of them "boxes". I rented a shop to build the
trimaran, and I didn't carry any tools to the shop
that wouldn't improve productivity. On that basis the
only stationary tool that made it was the portable
planner.
The workhorse tools where my barrel grip Bosch jigsaw,
and my Ryoby polisher with 40 grit 8" disc mounted.
With these two one can scarf, cut, shape, grind etc..
almost anything. Another tool was a drywall screw
driver, I used that so much that I sprung for a corded
version, that, even with the pain of the cord, was
worth it. Almost any tool is useful at some time: a
drill press for stays, a 90deg drill head for the part
you forgot to drill before you installed it. When it
comes to finishing, the right power sanders will save
you infinetly more effort than any table saw earlier
on in the project.
About the only thing I used a circular saw for was
scarphing plywood, and you can definetly use the
polisher for that also.
I have every fancy tool known to man, because I am a
cabinetmaker. But the tools that ultimately played
the largest part wheren't from that sellection.
When we were finishing up the Constant Camber Cyclone
at the wooden boat school, traditional boatbuilder
Greg Rosel would put his head around the corner every
so often to jokingly turn his nose up at us. I said
"what's your problem everything is just fine in
Autobody Repair 100".
That's one way to think of it. The Wharram builders
use a full drywall kit to lay down their glass and
joint compound.
This ain't wood poetry.
--- tom <tkremer@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Back when I had a really well equipped shop to work in
(the Sausalito<BR>
Boatbuilders Co-op) and had my choice of just about
every big power tool<BR>
ever invented I found I did more than 90% of my
cutting on one of the<BR>
bandsaws, either one of the 14" or a fine old
28" that could really cut<BR>
some wood right where you wanted it to. <BR>
<BR>
A table saw isn't a boatbuilding tool at all and the
chop saw is best<BR>
left to the unskilled hammer mechanics who throw up
crappily built<BR>
big-box houses made of wet soft pine 2"x4"s
and particle board. <BR>
<BR>
Miter cutting can be done with a gauge and a handsaw,
or for that matter<BR>
on a bandsaw equipped with a bevel gauge. For
rough ripping a circular<BR>
saw will do, for finer work use the bandsaw.<BR>
<BR>
A decent 14" or better bandsaw with a 1/2 inch
blade is the first big<BR>
tool you should have. I have used one of the Grizzly
ones that sells for<BR>
about $300 and it is fine for the serious amateur, do
not waste money on<BR>
one of those little 9" ones with 1/4"
blades. <BR>
<BR>
Here is my list in order of value for the garage
boatyard...<BR>
<BR>
A selection of the necessary hand tools (and it seems
the longer you do<BR>
this the more hand tools you think are
"necessary")<BR>
<BR>
A good woodworker's bench<BR>
<BR>
A bandsaw (with the table at the same height as the
work bench)<BR>
<BR>
A thickness planer (once again on a level with the
bench)<BR>
<BR>
Tom K<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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building. I have one, and occasionally use it, but
the bandsaw is far more useful. I would say that even
if it couldn't cut curves. It is just great for
breaking down solid would, and quickly cutting out
frames and joints. After that for stationary tools, I
would vote for the planner.
The largest project I have built to date was a Kurt
Hughes Trimaran, but I have built lot of other boats,
many of them "boxes". I rented a shop to build the
trimaran, and I didn't carry any tools to the shop
that wouldn't improve productivity. On that basis the
only stationary tool that made it was the portable
planner.
The workhorse tools where my barrel grip Bosch jigsaw,
and my Ryoby polisher with 40 grit 8" disc mounted.
With these two one can scarf, cut, shape, grind etc..
almost anything. Another tool was a drywall screw
driver, I used that so much that I sprung for a corded
version, that, even with the pain of the cord, was
worth it. Almost any tool is useful at some time: a
drill press for stays, a 90deg drill head for the part
you forgot to drill before you installed it. When it
comes to finishing, the right power sanders will save
you infinetly more effort than any table saw earlier
on in the project.
About the only thing I used a circular saw for was
scarphing plywood, and you can definetly use the
polisher for that also.
I have every fancy tool known to man, because I am a
cabinetmaker. But the tools that ultimately played
the largest part wheren't from that sellection.
When we were finishing up the Constant Camber Cyclone
at the wooden boat school, traditional boatbuilder
Greg Rosel would put his head around the corner every
so often to jokingly turn his nose up at us. I said
"what's your problem everything is just fine in
Autobody Repair 100".
That's one way to think of it. The Wharram builders
use a full drywall kit to lay down their glass and
joint compound.
This ain't wood poetry.
--- tom <tkremer@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class atthe Woodworkers Club,<BR>
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off(I've never used one<BR>
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and ofcourse they recommend<BR>
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what'son sale this month.<BR>
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on salefor 169.20. I imagine<BR>
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesawdo you need to<BR>
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I needto cut plywood, rip<BR>
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and mitercutting, but I<BR>
> suppose all table saws do this. How much qualitydo I need?<BR>
> <BR>should I buy a seperate<BR>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesawaccurate enough?<BR>
> <BR><BR>
> Thanks,<BR>
> Paul<BR>
Back when I had a really well equipped shop to work in
(the Sausalito<BR>
Boatbuilders Co-op) and had my choice of just about
every big power tool<BR>
ever invented I found I did more than 90% of my
cutting on one of the<BR>
bandsaws, either one of the 14" or a fine old
28" that could really cut<BR>
some wood right where you wanted it to. <BR>
<BR>
A table saw isn't a boatbuilding tool at all and the
chop saw is best<BR>
left to the unskilled hammer mechanics who throw up
crappily built<BR>
big-box houses made of wet soft pine 2"x4"s
and particle board. <BR>
<BR>
Miter cutting can be done with a gauge and a handsaw,
or for that matter<BR>
on a bandsaw equipped with a bevel gauge. For
rough ripping a circular<BR>
saw will do, for finer work use the bandsaw.<BR>
<BR>
A decent 14" or better bandsaw with a 1/2 inch
blade is the first big<BR>
tool you should have. I have used one of the Grizzly
ones that sells for<BR>
about $300 and it is fine for the serious amateur, do
not waste money on<BR>
one of those little 9" ones with 1/4"
blades. <BR>
<BR>
Here is my list in order of value for the garage
boatyard...<BR>
<BR>
A selection of the necessary hand tools (and it seems
the longer you do<BR>
this the more hand tools you think are
"necessary")<BR>
<BR>
A good woodworker's bench<BR>
<BR>
A bandsaw (with the table at the same height as the
work bench)<BR>
<BR>
A thickness planer (once again on a level with the
bench)<BR>
<BR>
Tom K<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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> Last Saturday I took a Basic Tablesaw class at the Woodworkers Club,Back when I had a really well equipped shop to work in (the Sausalito
> so hopefully I'd learn not to cut my fingers off (I've never used one
> before). I would like to buy a tablesaw, and of course they recommend
> the Dewalt DW746X at 899.99 because thats what's on sale this month.
> The Sears flier has a Craftsman 10 saw on sale for 169.20. I imagine
> the Dewalt is built better, but how much tablesaw do you need to
> build a boat. i.e. Birdwatcher? Of course I need to cut plywood, rip
> framing stock, as well as bevelling it, and miter cutting, but I
> suppose all table saws do this. How much quality do I need?
>
> Any recommendations for any other saws? Also should I buy a seperate
> chop saw for the miter cuts, or is the tablesaw accurate enough?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
Boatbuilders Co-op) and had my choice of just about every big power tool
ever invented I found I did more than 90% of my cutting on one of the
bandsaws, either one of the 14" or a fine old 28" that could really cut
some wood right where you wanted it to.
A table saw isn't a boatbuilding tool at all and the chop saw is best
left to the unskilled hammer mechanics who throw up crappily built
big-box houses made of wet soft pine 2"x4"s and particle board.
Miter cutting can be done with a gauge and a handsaw, or for that matter
on a bandsaw equipped with a bevel gauge. For rough ripping a circular
saw will do, for finer work use the bandsaw.
A decent 14" or better bandsaw with a 1/2 inch blade is the first big
tool you should have. I have used one of the Grizzly ones that sells for
about $300 and it is fine for the serious amateur, do not waste money on
one of those little 9" ones with 1/4" blades.
Here is my list in order of value for the garage boatyard...
A selection of the necessary hand tools (and it seems the longer you do
this the more hand tools you think are "necessary")
A good woodworker's bench
A bandsaw (with the table at the same height as the work bench)
A thickness planer (once again on a level with the bench)
Tom K