Re: South Haven Dory Progress and Skeg Question
Good tips on glassing.
Skeg usually is cut to extend about paralel to the
waterline, from just aft of the deepest part of
the rocker. Maybe a little deeper at the aft end.
I have tried my Bolger GLD without, and it does
not track nearly as well. Skeg really helps.
Would also recomend you protect the bottom of the
skeg if you intend to pull you boat up on the beach.
It sometimes takes the full weight of the boat,
and will take some serious "Sanding" at times.
I have an aluminium stip that can be replaced,
as I use mine as a "Beach Boat."
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
Skeg usually is cut to extend about paralel to the
waterline, from just aft of the deepest part of
the rocker. Maybe a little deeper at the aft end.
I have tried my Bolger GLD without, and it does
not track nearly as well. Skeg really helps.
Would also recomend you protect the bottom of the
skeg if you intend to pull you boat up on the beach.
It sometimes takes the full weight of the boat,
and will take some serious "Sanding" at times.
I have an aluminium stip that can be replaced,
as I use mine as a "Beach Boat."
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., staehpj1@h... wrote:
> Note, not quite a bolger boat but close to the Gull. I hope this
in
> on topic enough.
>
> My Dory is now 3d and has the inside seams done. I pulled the
> stitches and plan to do the outside seams this morning before I go
> sailing on my C22.
>
> I used a trick that I learned in my WW kayaking days. After I laid
> up the seams I stuck wax paper over them and worked most of the
> bubbles out. It had a big wrinkle every so often because you can't
> force the wax paper to follow the compound curves, but it will
> greatly reduce the sanding.
>
> On the outside I plan to use HandiWrap (Not Saran Wrap, epoxy
sticks
> to it). I have found that it can be stretched over outside seams
and
> the epoxy comes out nice and smooth, none of the weave of the tape
> shows at all. Use masking tape to keep it stretched tight if needed
>
> I think if I were to do it again I would modify the offsets for the
> bottom. Paul left extra in the forward portion, expecting you to
> trim when stitching. I would prefer to have it 1-1/2" shorter and
a
> little finer taper on both ends.
>
> The shear as drawn was very close to the shape it will wind up, but
I
> think I may need to trim it slightly when I put the shear clamps
on.
> It has a nice gracefull shape, but I prefer to not have to force
the
> shear clamps too much.
>
> It will be a very pretty boat(IMO). If it rows half as nice as it
> looks I will be delighted.
>
> The plans for the South Haven Dory are not at all specific about
the
> skeg. What is normal for a dory of this type (Michalak sport Dory,
> Bolger GLD or Gull, etc.)?
>
> Is the skeg mandatory? If so what dimensions are typical? I was
> thinking maybe 1" wide, 6" deep, and 24" long or maybe none at all.
>
> Pete Staehling
Note, not quite a bolger boat but close to the Gull. I hope this in
on topic enough.
My Dory is now 3d and has the inside seams done. I pulled the
stitches and plan to do the outside seams this morning before I go
sailing on my C22.
I used a trick that I learned in my WW kayaking days. After I laid
up the seams I stuck wax paper over them and worked most of the
bubbles out. It had a big wrinkle every so often because you can't
force the wax paper to follow the compound curves, but it will
greatly reduce the sanding.
On the outside I plan to use HandiWrap (Not Saran Wrap, epoxy sticks
to it). I have found that it can be stretched over outside seams and
the epoxy comes out nice and smooth, none of the weave of the tape
shows at all. Use masking tape to keep it stretched tight if needed
I think if I were to do it again I would modify the offsets for the
bottom. Paul left extra in the forward portion, expecting you to
trim when stitching. I would prefer to have it 1-1/2" shorter and a
little finer taper on both ends.
The shear as drawn was very close to the shape it will wind up, but I
think I may need to trim it slightly when I put the shear clamps on.
It has a nice gracefull shape, but I prefer to not have to force the
shear clamps too much.
It will be a very pretty boat(IMO). If it rows half as nice as it
looks I will be delighted.
The plans for the South Haven Dory are not at all specific about the
skeg. What is normal for a dory of this type (Michalak sport Dory,
Bolger GLD or Gull, etc.)?
Is the skeg mandatory? If so what dimensions are typical? I was
thinking maybe 1" wide, 6" deep, and 24" long or maybe none at all.
Pete Staehling
on topic enough.
My Dory is now 3d and has the inside seams done. I pulled the
stitches and plan to do the outside seams this morning before I go
sailing on my C22.
I used a trick that I learned in my WW kayaking days. After I laid
up the seams I stuck wax paper over them and worked most of the
bubbles out. It had a big wrinkle every so often because you can't
force the wax paper to follow the compound curves, but it will
greatly reduce the sanding.
On the outside I plan to use HandiWrap (Not Saran Wrap, epoxy sticks
to it). I have found that it can be stretched over outside seams and
the epoxy comes out nice and smooth, none of the weave of the tape
shows at all. Use masking tape to keep it stretched tight if needed
I think if I were to do it again I would modify the offsets for the
bottom. Paul left extra in the forward portion, expecting you to
trim when stitching. I would prefer to have it 1-1/2" shorter and a
little finer taper on both ends.
The shear as drawn was very close to the shape it will wind up, but I
think I may need to trim it slightly when I put the shear clamps on.
It has a nice gracefull shape, but I prefer to not have to force the
shear clamps too much.
It will be a very pretty boat(IMO). If it rows half as nice as it
looks I will be delighted.
The plans for the South Haven Dory are not at all specific about the
skeg. What is normal for a dory of this type (Michalak sport Dory,
Bolger GLD or Gull, etc.)?
Is the skeg mandatory? If so what dimensions are typical? I was
thinking maybe 1" wide, 6" deep, and 24" long or maybe none at all.
Pete Staehling