Re: Pressure treated wood

Plain cheap roofing tar, applied hot, will do the job of sealing end
grain. If you want to get fancy you can even cut it with kerosene so it
penetrates better. It is also handy for filling in all sorts of nooks
and corners in a traditional framed boat where fresh water might
otherwise collect.

Tom K

> Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 09:17:12 -0400 (EDT)
> From: thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: Pressure treated wood
>
> Unless you cut both ends off, there is usually
> something left to stick in the ground. As far as
> posts are concerned, has anyone tried soaking the
> treated or untreated endgrain in epoxy prior to
> burrying? I am thinking of post ends.

Why does this remind me of P.D.Q. Bach?

--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> "Flower Trellis" is one of the lesser known early
> designs of M. Francis Hereshoff, half-brother to L.
> He called it a "Cat Crawl".

"Flower Trellis" is one of the lesser known early
designs of M. Francis Hereshoff, half-brother to L.
He called it a "Cat Crawl".
I suggested that the "Slats" be closer together,
and maybe calked, but again they didn't listen
to me, just saying "Build it as drawn."
Still haven't gotten my check.

Pat

--- In bolger@y..., jhkohnen@b... wrote:
>
> Who designed Flower Trellis? I know it wasn't Bolger, maybe Billy
Atkin?
> I always wear a lifevest when out on the water in a Flower
Trellis. ;O)
>
> Pat Pateson wrote:
>
> I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few
> months ago, and they insisted that I build it
> of all pressure treated wood, instead of my
> suggested Cedar.
>
> On Thu, 27 Sep 2001 16:39:43 EDT, Mark wrote:
> > ...
> > I'd advise the wearing of
> > lifevest on this boat
> > Mark
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@b...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> Correlation does not imply causation; except, of course, to
your cat.
> <Craig O'Donnell>

Who designed Flower Trellis? I know it wasn't Bolger, maybe Billy Atkin?
I always wear a lifevest when out on the water in a Flower Trellis. ;O)

Pat Pateson wrote:

I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few
months ago, and they insisted that I build it
of all pressure treated wood, instead of my
suggested Cedar.

On Thu, 27 Sep 2001 16:39:43 EDT, Mark wrote:
> ...
> I'd advise the wearing of
> lifevest on this boat
> Mark

--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Correlation does not imply causation; except, of course, to your cat.
<Craig O'Donnell>

Unless you cut both ends off, there is usually
something left to stick in the ground. As far as
posts are concerned, has anyone tried soaking the
treated or untreated endgrain in epoxy prior to
burrying? I am thinking of post ends.

---cha62759@...wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
Hi Pat, 
I would avoid burying any fresh cut ends of posts. If
you must bury 
fresh cut ends I would suggest soaking the ends in a
bucket of 
whatever was used originally or what the treatment
association 
recommends. I assume you being out there in the
western rainforest 
you are using treated hemlock or douglasfir. I would
brush the same 
stuff on any cuts out of the ground. I've been away
from that scene 
for quite a while but I believe that if you dig around
 
www.wwpinstitute.org you will find that after the
stuff dries if will 
be harmless to the flowers. But then you said you have
built it so 
this is all after the fact. To answer your original
question if it's 
out of the ground (untreated bits) it will probably
hold up but not 
as 
well as it would if fully treated. There should be no
trouble glueing. 
Bob Chamberland 
--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:

> A question of general information. 
> 
> I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few 
> months ago, and they insisted that I build it 
> of all pressure treated wood, instead of my 
> suggested Cedar. 
> (Floweres were probably not very happy about 
> their decision.) 
> 
> Question is. I had to Rip some of the

pieces,

> for slats, and could see the "pressure

treated"

> part only going about 1/2" or so into the

wood.

> Also ends of pieces that were cut. 
> 
> Any "Experts" (I know, everybody here

thinks he's

> an "Expert", including me.) that know

whether this

> is going to hold up to weather over the long

run.

> 
> Also, what about "Glueing" pressure

treated wood?

> 
> Thank 
> 
> Pat Patteson 
> Molalla, Oregon

</tt>

 



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--- In bolger@y..., maosborn@a... wrote:

> Quality treated lumber will be treated to a depth of 2" We have

ripped and

> or crossed cut several thoiusand board feet in the last year. Only

on 6/6

> have I seen a lack of full penetration.

I'm with you there, even though the green of the treatment is darker
near the surface, it is still green all the way through.

> If you are exposeing untreated wood
> it will surley rot. I would also be concerned about the wood's

stability. I

> have seen 2/6 turn into pretzels overnight. I'd advise the wearing

> lifevest on this boat
> Mark

Rightttttt.. I've used this stuff before on boats, and haven't gone
swimming yet.

Regardless, it will be epoxy coated to help stabilize the wood.

Quality treated lumber will be treated to a depth of 2" We have ripped and
or crossed cut several thoiusand board feet in the last year. Only on 6/6
have I seen a lack of full penetration. If you are exposeing untreated wood
it will surley rot. I would also be concerned about the wood's stability. I
have seen 2/6 turn into pretzels overnight. I'd advise the wearing of
lifevest on this boat
Mark

Hi Pat,
I would avoid burying any fresh cut ends of posts. If you must bury
fresh cut ends I would suggest soaking the ends in a bucket of
whatever was used originally or what the treatment association
recommends. I assume you being out there in the western rainforest
you are using treated hemlock or douglasfir. I would brush the same
stuff on any cuts out of the ground. I've been away from that scene
for quite a while but I believe that if you dig around
www.wwpinstitute.org you will find that after the stuff dries if will
be harmless to the flowers. But then you said you have built it so
this is all after the fact. To answer your original question if it's
out of the ground (untreated bits) it will probably hold up but not
as
well as it would if fully treated. There should be no trouble glueing.
Bob Chamberland

--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> A question of general information.
>
> I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few
> months ago, and they insisted that I build it
> of all pressure treated wood, instead of my
> suggested Cedar.
> (Floweres were probably not very happy about
> their decision.)
>
> Question is. I had to Rip some of the pieces,
> for slats, and could see the "pressure treated"
> part only going about 1/2" or so into the wood.
> Also ends of pieces that were cut.
>
> Any "Experts" (I know, everybody here thinks he's
> an "Expert", including me.) that know whether this
> is going to hold up to weather over the long run.
>
> Also, what about "Glueing" pressure treated wood?
>
> Thank
>
> Pat Patteson
> Molalla, Oregon

Pressure treated lumber is call such because chemicals are forced into the
grain usually of southern yellow pine under pressure. The moisture and some
chemicals work their way back out of the wood over the first couple of months
after treating. This is why you should not paint treated lumber right away
but you should apply a stabilizer. SY pine is used because it readily will
absorb moisture which makes it great for pressure treating it also readily
gives off its moisture, hence the need for a stabilizer, if left to absorb
and release moisture the wood will crack, warp, and tear it's fasteners
loose. What you see may be the results of partial drying and off gassing of
the treatment. Most manufactures give their products a life expectancy of
between 40-50 years. PL makes a treated lumber adhesive for gluing up treated
lumber. Be sure to wear to dust mask and wash up after handling this lumber
as some of the chemicals used are not very friendly. In years past things
like arsenic were used.

Hope this helps

Jim

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The treatment is for rot prevention, not holding up to the weather.
All the home shows recommend you treat the cut ends, as you noticed,
the presure treatment only goes in so far.

That said, even if you dont treat the cut areas, it is still better
than untreated wood. I'm going to seal all the exposed cut ares with
epoxy and milled glass fiber. I'm hoping the milled fiber will work
like cloth to prevent checking

If you are making thin slats, use thin stock to start with.

Or, if you are really concerned, laminate thicker sections up out of
3/4" (nominal 1") boards, which should have the treatment all the way
through.

Epoxy sticks to presure treated wood just fine.

--- In bolger@y..., pateson@c... wrote:
> A question of general information.
>
> I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few
> months ago, and they insisted that I build it
> of all pressure treated wood, instead of my
> suggested Cedar.
> (Floweres were probably not very happy about
> their decision.)
>
> Question is. I had to Rip some of the pieces,
> for slats, and could see the "pressure treated"
> part only going about 1/2" or so into the wood.
> Also ends of pieces that were cut.
>
> Any "Experts" (I know, everybody here thinks he's
> an "Expert", including me.) that know whether this
> is going to hold up to weather over the long run.
>
> Also, what about "Glueing" pressure treated wood?
>
> Thank
>
> Pat Patteson
> Molalla, Oregon

A question of general information.

I built a Flower Trellis for a customer a few
months ago, and they insisted that I build it
of all pressure treated wood, instead of my
suggested Cedar.
(Floweres were probably not very happy about
their decision.)

Question is. I had to Rip some of the pieces,
for slats, and could see the "pressure treated"
part only going about 1/2" or so into the wood.
Also ends of pieces that were cut.

Any "Experts" (I know, everybody here thinks he's
an "Expert", including me.) that know whether this
is going to hold up to weather over the long run.

Also, what about "Glueing" pressure treated wood?

Thank

Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon