Re: [bolger] widening holes . . .
I was reading through some of the other replies, and I realized I had
missed the 6" long part. This would be a pretty hard way to accurately
drill out a 6" long 2" hole over a 1" one.
HJ
"Harry W. James" wrote:
missed the 6" long part. This would be a pretty hard way to accurately
drill out a 6" long 2" hole over a 1" one.
HJ
"Harry W. James" wrote:
>
> Bill
>
> You have to do this a lot in house building when you screw up on hole
> size for plumbing. Make a plywood square, drill it out with your 2"
> hole saw. Center it over your 1" hole and you can use it as an outside
> bearing without the center bit, to drill an accurate hole. To hold it
> down, you can use screws and repair later, or test out a lot of double
> sided tape, or maybe a glue gun.
>
> HJ
> Bill Samson wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > Following the interesting thread regarding rudder stocks for Micro, I've got
> > a notion to change the one in my Chebacco.
> >
> > When I built her I put in a 1" dia galvanised steel stock, which has been
> > fine in most ways, except that the diameter is too small to get a decent
> > tiller attachment at the top, so I've always had tillers that have developed
> > a waggle after sitting on the mooring with tiller lashed for a week or two
> > while the seas bash the rudder around.
> >
> > A 2" dia steel pipe would be much less prone to such wear and I'm minded to
> > replace the smaller stock with this.
> >
> > My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the bottom of
> > the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
> > works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
> > into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would present
> > end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
> >
> > All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> > PS Yesterday was end-of-season and the moorings need to be lifted, so I
> > hauled my Chebacco using our tiny Peugeot 206 hatchback, and trailed her up
> > the hill to our house. Ain't light displacement boats great?
> >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Screw your 2" hole saw onto the arbor as usual. Then screw on a 1"
hole saw. It will stick out about 1/4". This will act as a pilot
for you 2" saw keeping it concentric as it drills. Works every time!
hole saw. It will stick out about 1/4". This will act as a pilot
for you 2" saw keeping it concentric as it drills. Works every time!
Bill
You have to do this a lot in house building when you screw up on hole
size for plumbing. Make a plywood square, drill it out with your 2"
hole saw. Center it over your 1" hole and you can use it as an outside
bearing without the center bit, to drill an accurate hole. To hold it
down, you can use screws and repair later, or test out a lot of double
sided tape, or maybe a glue gun.
HJ
Bill Samson wrote:
You have to do this a lot in house building when you screw up on hole
size for plumbing. Make a plywood square, drill it out with your 2"
hole saw. Center it over your 1" hole and you can use it as an outside
bearing without the center bit, to drill an accurate hole. To hold it
down, you can use screws and repair later, or test out a lot of double
sided tape, or maybe a glue gun.
HJ
Bill Samson wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Following the interesting thread regarding rudder stocks for Micro, I've got
> a notion to change the one in my Chebacco.
>
> When I built her I put in a 1" dia galvanised steel stock, which has been
> fine in most ways, except that the diameter is too small to get a decent
> tiller attachment at the top, so I've always had tillers that have developed
> a waggle after sitting on the mooring with tiller lashed for a week or two
> while the seas bash the rudder around.
>
> A 2" dia steel pipe would be much less prone to such wear and I'm minded to
> replace the smaller stock with this.
>
> My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the bottom of
> the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
> works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
> into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would present
> end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
>
> All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bill
>
> PS Yesterday was end-of-season and the moorings need to be lifted, so I
> hauled my Chebacco using our tiny Peugeot 206 hatchback, and trailed her up
> the hill to our house. Ain't light displacement boats great?
>
>
McFeely's sells what they call an "Oops arbor". This is a hole saw
arbor within a hole saw. With the hole saw you would have to cut some
chisel some which would indeed be tedious in cramped quarters
Bob Chamberland
-- In bolger@y..., KF4call@a... wrote:
arbor within a hole saw. With the hole saw you would have to cut some
chisel some which would indeed be tedious in cramped quarters
Bob Chamberland
-- In bolger@y..., KF4call@a... wrote:
> I have seen these for sale in a catalog...don't remember which onebut I have
> >your 2" drill
> > What you need is a piloted counterbore. This just means that
> > has a protrusion ahead of it that fits the 1" hole that isalready there.
> > This causes the drill to follow exactly the old hole. It ispossible to
> > make such a tool, if you can't find one.
> >
I have seen these for sale in a catalog...don't remember which one but I have
Alden, Woodworkers Supply, McFeely, Amazon and a number of the other common
ones.
Regards,
Warren
n a message dated 9/30/2001 10:27:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
chuck@...writes:
Alden, Woodworkers Supply, McFeely, Amazon and a number of the other common
ones.
Regards,
Warren
n a message dated 9/30/2001 10:27:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
chuck@...writes:
> Hi, Bill.
>
> What you need is a piloted counterbore. This just means that your 2" drill
> has a protrusion ahead of it that fits the 1" hole that is already there.
> This causes the drill to follow exactly the old hole. It is possible to
> make such a tool, if you can't find one.
>
Hi, Bill.
What you need is a piloted counterbore. This just means that your 2" drill
has a protrusion ahead of it that fits the 1" hole that is already there.
This causes the drill to follow exactly the old hole. It is possible to
make such a tool, if you can't find one.
Chuck
<snip> My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the
bottom of
the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would
present
end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
What you need is a piloted counterbore. This just means that your 2" drill
has a protrusion ahead of it that fits the 1" hole that is already there.
This causes the drill to follow exactly the old hole. It is possible to
make such a tool, if you can't find one.
Chuck
<snip> My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the
bottom of
the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would
present
end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Bill
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi guys,
Following the interesting thread regarding rudder stocks for Micro, I've got
a notion to change the one in my Chebacco.
When I built her I put in a 1" dia galvanised steel stock, which has been
fine in most ways, except that the diameter is too small to get a decent
tiller attachment at the top, so I've always had tillers that have developed
a waggle after sitting on the mooring with tiller lashed for a week or two
while the seas bash the rudder around.
A 2" dia steel pipe would be much less prone to such wear and I'm minded to
replace the smaller stock with this.
My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the bottom of
the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would present
end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Bill
PS Yesterday was end-of-season and the moorings need to be lifted, so I
hauled my Chebacco using our tiny Peugeot 206 hatchback, and trailed her up
the hill to our house. Ain't light displacement boats great?
Following the interesting thread regarding rudder stocks for Micro, I've got
a notion to change the one in my Chebacco.
When I built her I put in a 1" dia galvanised steel stock, which has been
fine in most ways, except that the diameter is too small to get a decent
tiller attachment at the top, so I've always had tillers that have developed
a waggle after sitting on the mooring with tiller lashed for a week or two
while the seas bash the rudder around.
A 2" dia steel pipe would be much less prone to such wear and I'm minded to
replace the smaller stock with this.
My problem is this - I already have a 1" dia hole (6" long) in the bottom of
the hull to accommodate the stock. How can I widen this to 2". My 2" bit
works fine in solid wood where the central spike has something to screw
into. I've thought of gluing a 1" dowel in the hole, but this would present
end-grain to the screw on the bit, and probably wouldn't work too well.
All inspired ideas will be gratefully considered.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Bill
PS Yesterday was end-of-season and the moorings need to be lifted, so I
hauled my Chebacco using our tiny Peugeot 206 hatchback, and trailed her up
the hill to our house. Ain't light displacement boats great?