Re: [bolger] online marine directories

I was going to respond to this and forgot. The best site of maritime
links on the web.


http://www.boat-links.com/boatlink.html

I am sure somebody sent it to you but if not, then here it is.


HJ


Levent OZDEMIR wrote:

>
> hi all,
>
> We have prepared a web site for our yacht building
> firm, and I wish to submit its URL to yachting/
> boating portals like boatbuilder.com
> But I dont know much sites. I searched on yahoo but I
> found only 4 or 5 marine directories.
> So at this point I need your help to find such portals
> and submit my site.
> Can you send me URLs of these portals?
>
> Thank you
>
> Levent OZDEMIR
> Naval Architect
>http://www.orionyachting.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> D

http://www.mcmaster.com/cgi/loadpage.cgi?pagenum=1854&descid=7296

Look at the bottom under "cold galvanizing compounds"

--- In bolger@y..., willsamson@y... wrote:
> > If it's only the top that is causing grief, why not have a wider
> piece
> > welded to the top for the tiller to attach to? It could be
square
> sided to
> > allow more bearing surface, which would cut down the wiggle even
> more.
>
> I'd thought about that, but the wider bit at the top couldn't be
> galvanised in situ, and would prevent the rudder and stock from
being
> drawn out through the hole for galvanising - unless you know of an
> effective alternative to hot-dip galvanising that can be done on
the
> boat?
>
> At the moment, Chuck Leinweber's suggestion of a pilot 'plug' fixed
> to the 2" auger bit sounds feasible. I could make the plug from
> hardwood and epoxy it onto my 2" bit. I hope that would be strong
> enough - and then it could be removed later. Alternatively, a
piece
> of copper tubing could be used as the plug, and soldered onto the
2"
> bit. No great problem to un-solder it afterwards.
>
> Thanks again for all your thoughtful replies.
>
> Bill

hi all,

We have prepared a web site for our yacht building
firm, and I wish to submit its URL to yachting/
boating portals like boatbuilder.com
But I dont know much sites. I searched on yahoo but I
found only 4 or 5 marine directories.
So at this point I need your help to find such portals
and submit my site.
Can you send me URLs of these portals?

Thank you

Levent OZDEMIR
Naval Architect
http://www.orionyachting.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone.
http://phone.yahoo.com

> If it's only the top that is causing grief, why not have a wider

piece

> welded to the top for the tiller to attach to? It could be square

sided to

> allow more bearing surface, which would cut down the wiggle even

more.

I'd thought about that, but the wider bit at the top couldn't be
galvanised in situ, and would prevent the rudder and stock from being
drawn out through the hole for galvanising - unless you know of an
effective alternative to hot-dip galvanising that can be done on the
boat?

At the moment, Chuck Leinweber's suggestion of a pilot 'plug' fixed
to the 2" auger bit sounds feasible. I could make the plug from
hardwood and epoxy it onto my 2" bit. I hope that would be strong
enough - and then it could be removed later. Alternatively, a piece
of copper tubing could be used as the plug, and soldered onto the 2"
bit. No great problem to un-solder it afterwards.

Thanks again for all your thoughtful replies.

Bill

Hi -- My earlier reply to Bill's note was returned due to server problems.
This may be irrelevant now but here it is anyway!

Hi Bill

If it's only the top that is causing grief, why not have a wider piece
welded to the top for the tiller to attach to? It could be square sided to
allow more bearing surface, which would cut down the wiggle even more.

For cutting a bigger hole, I've seen (in books, maybe Chappelle's) cutters
mounted on shafts that are the same diameter as the original hole -- that
keeps it centred. You could possibly do a home made cutter with a hardwood
shaft and the cutter from an extension bit from a bit and brace set.

Jamie