Re: Bilge keels and glass bottoms--other ideas

You don't want to use mylar alone on a real boat. Not strong
enough to resist anything at all sharp. Monfort uses it over aircraft
fabric. How about mylar over Lexan, and just replace the mylar once in
a while?

--- In bolger@y..., "david galvin" <porcupine@d...> wrote:
> For a different approach to the glass bottom boat dilemma, consider
> Platt Monfort's suggestion: cover a skin boat frame with clear
Mylar.
> This solves the scratch problem, but introduces the disastrous tear
> problem. Mylar is cheaper than Lexan, however, and can probably be
> replaced easily. I think Monfort sells a booklet detailing the
> technique for use with his designs:
> <http://www.geodesicairoliteboats.com/>
>
> For a bilge-keeled "Microesque" pocket cruiser, check out Selway-
> Fisher Designs: <http://www.selway-fisher.com/PCup16.htm> I like
Grey
> Swan, myself. These boats are probably a little more complex to
> build, but seem about as cute and commodious as Micro. It should be
> understood that a ~16' bilge keel vessel would be awfully slow in
> anything less than a gale, btw,
>
> porky

For a different approach to the glass bottom boat dilemma, consider
Platt Monfort's suggestion: cover a skin boat frame with clear Mylar.
This solves the scratch problem, but introduces the disastrous tear
problem. Mylar is cheaper than Lexan, however, and can probably be
replaced easily. I think Monfort sells a booklet detailing the
technique for use with his designs:
<http://www.geodesicairoliteboats.com/>

For a bilge-keeled "Microesque" pocket cruiser, check out Selway-
Fisher Designs: <http://www.selway-fisher.com/PCup16.htm> I like Grey
Swan, myself. These boats are probably a little more complex to
build, but seem about as cute and commodious as Micro. It should be
understood that a ~16' bilge keel vessel would be awfully slow in
anything less than a gale, btw,

porky