Re: [bolger] Re: Glouster Light Dory
I share your sentiments about smearing goop. :ob The best argument I've
heard for replacing chine logs and other sticks with goop and glass is that
the sticks can trap water and are prime spots for rot to develop. Still,
I'd much rather make sawdust and shavings than smear goop. Boatbuilding is
supposed to be fun! Unfortunately, a couple of boats that appeal to me are
designed for stitch 'n' goo, so I may have to give it a go sometime...
Stitch 'n' goo is supposed to be more forgiving of errors, you really don't
even want good fits, and this may be attractive to some inexperienced
builders unsure of their woodworking skills. But most boats don't require
furniture-quality woodworking, and just about anyone can knock together a
simple stick and ply boat successfully if they just take their time (even
me!).
Of course stitch 'n' goo can make good boats, look at Sam Devlin's
creations!! I just think it's more relaxing to work with wood, and enjoying
the process of building a boat is very important.
heard for replacing chine logs and other sticks with goop and glass is that
the sticks can trap water and are prime spots for rot to develop. Still,
I'd much rather make sawdust and shavings than smear goop. Boatbuilding is
supposed to be fun! Unfortunately, a couple of boats that appeal to me are
designed for stitch 'n' goo, so I may have to give it a go sometime...
Stitch 'n' goo is supposed to be more forgiving of errors, you really don't
even want good fits, and this may be attractive to some inexperienced
builders unsure of their woodworking skills. But most boats don't require
furniture-quality woodworking, and just about anyone can knock together a
simple stick and ply boat successfully if they just take their time (even
me!).
Of course stitch 'n' goo can make good boats, look at Sam Devlin's
creations!! I just think it's more relaxing to work with wood, and enjoying
the process of building a boat is very important.
On Sat, 13 Oct 2001 17:54:24 -0000, Pat Pateson wrote:
> I built a GLD a few years ago using "Dynamite's"
> book for guidance.
> ...
> My question is. Why would Anybody, in his "Right Mind",
> replace a couple of nice, long wooden sticks with
> a bunch of ties, fiberglass, and messy, dangerous,
> and expensive epoxy?
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
I have no truck with lettuce, cabbage, and similar chlorophyll. Any dietician
will tell you that a running foot of apple strudel contains four times the
vitamins of a bushel of beans. <S. J. Perelman>
I built a GLD a few years ago using "Dynamite's"
book for guidance.
Great Book, even if you Don't build one.
Very nice Boat, but a lot "Smaller" than the 15'9"
would indicate.
Amazingly beautiful shear as a result of the "Srange
apperaing" reverse curve on the plywood sides.
Rows worderfully, but a little light to carry way.
I understand, but have not seen, that there Is a
20'- one.
I wish I had built that one. (Just "enough" bigger)
My question is. Why would Anybody, in his "Right Mind",
replace a couple of nice, long wooden sticks with
a bunch of ties, fiberglass, and messy, dangerous,
and expensive epoxy?
I understand that "Stitch and Glue" has a place somewhere,
but, I don't understand this one.
Maybe it's that I am a "Woodworker", and have learned to
Hate "Glassing".
Any help, or support in my thoughts?
Thanks
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
book for guidance.
Great Book, even if you Don't build one.
Very nice Boat, but a lot "Smaller" than the 15'9"
would indicate.
Amazingly beautiful shear as a result of the "Srange
apperaing" reverse curve on the plywood sides.
Rows worderfully, but a little light to carry way.
I understand, but have not seen, that there Is a
20'- one.
I wish I had built that one. (Just "enough" bigger)
My question is. Why would Anybody, in his "Right Mind",
replace a couple of nice, long wooden sticks with
a bunch of ties, fiberglass, and messy, dangerous,
and expensive epoxy?
I understand that "Stitch and Glue" has a place somewhere,
but, I don't understand this one.
Maybe it's that I am a "Woodworker", and have learned to
Hate "Glassing".
Any help, or support in my thoughts?
Thanks
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., DougCulhane@a... wrote:
> I've been looking over H. Payson's Glouster Light Dory book. I
like
> this boat and think it would be a good project. I know there's a
> stitch and glue version of this boat out there (Payson uses stem
and
> chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet plywood
> construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch and
> glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does
anyone
> have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glue
> Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
> information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
> Doug (new to group)
--- In bolger@y..., gunkholer@h... wrote:
Book I have "How to build the Glouster Light Dory" doesn't use a
stitch and glue approach, he uses a heavy oak stem and chines. Maybe
he's updated the book -- I got and older copy from the library. Paul
VanderBosch built his own stitch and glue version and posted very
detailed descriptions on his web site. I like Payson's lines a
little better, but Paul's instructions are very thorough. Paul
didn't use forms at all, just stitched the panels together very
carefully. He says I can use Payson's measurements for a stitch and
glue method. I made a 1":1' model based on Paul's offsets -- it went
smoothly and looks great. I'm beginning to get a sense of how to
make this thing.
Doug
Any pictures of your boat?
>ply
>
> Doug,
> I built a stitch and glue Light Dory 2 years ago. I still have her
> and she rows like a dream. I used 1/4" ply for the sides and 3/8"
> on the bottom. Finished weight is about 85#. I built the boat rightall
> from Payson's book, he pretty much holds your hand and walks you
> through the whole job. One thing I did that strayed pretty far from
> the instructions was that I didn't build the ladder frame or use
> the forms. I bent the side panels around frames 2,4 and 6 (shotfaired
> drywall screws to hold it together temporarily) stitched the bow
> together and fastened the 3/4" ply transom, then fastened and
> the bottom and glassed the bottom to the sides. Now the hull can beto
> turned over and the inside fillets done, I removed the 3 frames one
> at a time and cut them down to become the seat risers and then
> glassed them back in place. I would caution you if you go this way
> make VERY sure that everything is lined up correctly, I took mytime
> here and everything turned out fine BUT if you don't get it alignedbook.
> correctly here your boat could be slightly (or very) screwed up! .
> All the information you need to build this boat is in Payson's
> Read it over thoroughly and get to it! It's a great rowing boat andJake, thanks this is exactly the info I was looking for. The Payson
> very pretty.
> Jake
Book I have "How to build the Glouster Light Dory" doesn't use a
stitch and glue approach, he uses a heavy oak stem and chines. Maybe
he's updated the book -- I got and older copy from the library. Paul
VanderBosch built his own stitch and glue version and posted very
detailed descriptions on his web site. I like Payson's lines a
little better, but Paul's instructions are very thorough. Paul
didn't use forms at all, just stitched the panels together very
carefully. He says I can use Payson's measurements for a stitch and
glue method. I made a 1":1' model based on Paul's offsets -- it went
smoothly and looks great. I'm beginning to get a sense of how to
make this thing.
Doug
Any pictures of your boat?
Doug,
I built a stitch and glue Light Dory 2 years ago. I still have her
and she rows like a dream. I used 1/4" ply for the sides and 3/8" ply
on the bottom. Finished weight is about 85#. I built the boat right
from Payson's book, he pretty much holds your hand and walks you
through the whole job. One thing I did that strayed pretty far from
the instructions was that I didn't build the ladder frame or use all
the forms. I bent the side panels around frames 2,4 and 6 (shot
drywall screws to hold it together temporarily) stitched the bow
together and fastened the 3/4" ply transom, then fastened and faired
the bottom and glassed the bottom to the sides. Now the hull can be
turned over and the inside fillets done, I removed the 3 frames one
at a time and cut them down to become the seat risers and then
glassed them back in place. I would caution you if you go this way to
make VERY sure that everything is lined up correctly, I took my time
here and everything turned out fine BUT if you don't get it aligned
correctly here your boat could be slightly (or very) screwed up! .
All the information you need to build this boat is in Payson's book.
Read it over thoroughly and get to it! It's a great rowing boat and
very pretty.
Jake
I built a stitch and glue Light Dory 2 years ago. I still have her
and she rows like a dream. I used 1/4" ply for the sides and 3/8" ply
on the bottom. Finished weight is about 85#. I built the boat right
from Payson's book, he pretty much holds your hand and walks you
through the whole job. One thing I did that strayed pretty far from
the instructions was that I didn't build the ladder frame or use all
the forms. I bent the side panels around frames 2,4 and 6 (shot
drywall screws to hold it together temporarily) stitched the bow
together and fastened the 3/4" ply transom, then fastened and faired
the bottom and glassed the bottom to the sides. Now the hull can be
turned over and the inside fillets done, I removed the 3 frames one
at a time and cut them down to become the seat risers and then
glassed them back in place. I would caution you if you go this way to
make VERY sure that everything is lined up correctly, I took my time
here and everything turned out fine BUT if you don't get it aligned
correctly here your boat could be slightly (or very) screwed up! .
All the information you need to build this boat is in Payson's book.
Read it over thoroughly and get to it! It's a great rowing boat and
very pretty.
Jake
--- In bolger@y..., DougCulhane@a... wrote:
> I've been looking over H. Payson's Glouster Light Dory book. I
like
> this boat and think it would be a good project. I know there's a
> stitch and glue version of this boat out there (Payson uses stem
and
> chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet plywood
> construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch and
> glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does
anyone
> have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glue
> Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
> information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
> Doug (new to group)
Hi All,
Bolger has another dory, about the same size but double ended
and I understand it's stitch & glue and also done in meters - Check it out
with Bolger & Friends.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger has another dory, about the same size but double ended
and I understand it's stitch & glue and also done in meters - Check it out
with Bolger & Friends.
Aloha - Jack Spoering
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., DougCulhane@a... wrote:
dory in the late '80s and wrote an article about it in issue
#7 of an old newsletter entitled "Instant Boatbuilder"
Chuck Merrill has the back copies of this newsletter posted
in the "private postings' section of his website.
Max
> I've been looking over H. Payson's Glouster Light Dory book. I likeanyone
> this boat and think it would be a good project. I know there's a
> stitch and glue version of this boat out there (Payson uses stem and
> chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet plywood
> construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch and
> glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does
> have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glueJim Michalak built a "stitch and glue" version of the light
> Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
> information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
> Doug (new to group)
dory in the late '80s and wrote an article about it in issue
#7 of an old newsletter entitled "Instant Boatbuilder"
Chuck Merrill has the back copies of this newsletter posted
in the "private postings' section of his website.
Max
> > How much did your boat end up weighing and how much epoxy didI got curious after you asked so I weighed it. It is about 82
> > you use?
>
> Not sure how much epoxy, I used a six quart kit from Raka and some
> additional.
>
> Haven't weighed her yet. I usually paint first then weigh. If I had
> to guess I would say she is a little over 100 pounds, 120 pounds
> tops. But that is just a guess. I'll post more info and photos as
> I have them on the dinghy cruising group.
pounds. It is luan and the bottom is not glassed except for the
seams and the bow-most portion of the bottom. The transom is glassed
because it is so narrow that I figured that the I might as well use
one piece of wide tape to do the seams on both sides at once. The
whole boat is coated with epoxy. I guess it will gain a little
weight when it is painted.
Pete
I built the stretched version of the GLD in stitch and
glue from plans bought from Common Sense Boats. This
is the 19 footer, and it is hard to beat as sweet
fixed seat rowing boat built from sheet plywood. It
is very fast and has a beautiful shape, and the plans
were idiot-proof (to which I am testament).
Sam
---DougCulhane@...wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
glue from plans bought from Common Sense Boats. This
is the 19 footer, and it is hard to beat as sweet
fixed seat rowing boat built from sheet plywood. It
is very fast and has a beautiful shape, and the plans
were idiot-proof (to which I am testament).
Sam
---DougCulhane@...wrote:
> I've been looking over H. Payson's Glouster Light__________________________________________________
> Dory book. I like
> this boat and think it would be a good project. I
> know there's a
> stitch and glue version of this boat out there
> (Payson uses stem and
> chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet
> plywood
> construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17'
> stitch and
> glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's
> better. Does anyone
> have information on where to get plans for the
> stitch and glue
> Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this
> boat and has
> information or insights to share it would be
> appreciated. Thanks.
> Doug (new to group)
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
Paul says it is 14'4" (I think), but the sides are a full 16' if you
look at his offsets. Mine built from those offsets is 15'7"
(probably more like 15'4" except for the arched top transom that I
added) so I suspect that he is off by 1 foot in his description.
Paul also said the shear-clamps are 15'2" but the panels are 16' long
on the plans and the shear clamps would be slightly longer because of
the curve.
I wrote to Paul about this and he seemed to think I was mistaken.
The offsets seem to show that they are as I stated and another
builder told me that his shear clamps were also 16'2" not the 15'2"
that Paul states, so I am not the only one whose boat came out that
length.
I don't know what the deal is with this, but the only three
possibilities I see are:
1. Paul is mistaken.
2. Paul used a different set of offsets than the ones he posted.
3. I am missing the boat completely.
I built a model by plugging Paul's offsets into an AutoCAD drawing,
plotting it out at 1"=1'0" on card stock, and taping it together.
The model measures 15-5/8" which approximately matches my full size
one when you consider scale.
Pete Staehling
> By the way isn't that other dory 14'. That would beIf you are referring to mine, it is a South Haven Dory, not the GLD.
> why the clamps where a foot or two shorter that the
> ones you put on your GLD
Paul says it is 14'4" (I think), but the sides are a full 16' if you
look at his offsets. Mine built from those offsets is 15'7"
(probably more like 15'4" except for the arched top transom that I
added) so I suspect that he is off by 1 foot in his description.
Paul also said the shear-clamps are 15'2" but the panels are 16' long
on the plans and the shear clamps would be slightly longer because of
the curve.
I wrote to Paul about this and he seemed to think I was mistaken.
The offsets seem to show that they are as I stated and another
builder told me that his shear clamps were also 16'2" not the 15'2"
that Paul states, so I am not the only one whose boat came out that
length.
I don't know what the deal is with this, but the only three
possibilities I see are:
1. Paul is mistaken.
2. Paul used a different set of offsets than the ones he posted.
3. I am missing the boat completely.
I built a model by plugging Paul's offsets into an AutoCAD drawing,
plotting it out at 1"=1'0" on card stock, and taping it together.
The model measures 15-5/8" which approximately matches my full size
one when you consider scale.
Pete Staehling
--- In bolger@y..., DougCulhane@a... wrote:
additional.
Haven't weighed her yet. I usually paint first then weigh. If I had
to guess I would say she is a little over 100 pounds, 120 pounds
tops. But that is just a guess. I'll post more info and photos as I
have them on the dinghy cruising group.
This is a real nice, easy, and fairly quick to build project. The
boats lines are very pleasing to the eye and I hear that she rows
great, but is a little tender if you aren't in the seat (similar to a
canoe in stability?).
Pete Staehling
> Thanks for the info. I checked out Paul's instructions -- veryhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/DinghyCruising
> clear and complete (and very generous of him). Your revisions
> should be helpful. I couldn't find your files or the "Dinghy
> Cruising" group
> URL?
> How much did your boat end up weighing and how much epoxy didNot sure how much epoxy, I used a six quart kit from Raka and some
> you use?
additional.
Haven't weighed her yet. I usually paint first then weigh. If I had
to guess I would say she is a little over 100 pounds, 120 pounds
tops. But that is just a guess. I'll post more info and photos as I
have them on the dinghy cruising group.
This is a real nice, easy, and fairly quick to build project. The
boats lines are very pleasing to the eye and I hear that she rows
great, but is a little tender if you aren't in the seat (similar to a
canoe in stability?).
Pete Staehling
I would just get the book that Payson wrote on the
whole precess. Called something like Building the
GLD. It's a blow by blow description.
I rowed I boat Payson Built at the Wooden Boat School,
and it was ver lovely, and one of the nicst row boats
I have used. The boat looked in great shape, though I
wouldn't use the poly he does, the alkyd paint, or put
the chine "logs" on the outside. Other than that, she
should be easier to build that any discussion of the
details is likely to allow.
By the way isn't that other dory 14'. That would be
why the clamps where a foot or two shorter that the
ones you put on your GLD
_______________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ca
whole precess. Called something like Building the
GLD. It's a blow by blow description.
I rowed I boat Payson Built at the Wooden Boat School,
and it was ver lovely, and one of the nicst row boats
I have used. The boat looked in great shape, though I
wouldn't use the poly he does, the alkyd paint, or put
the chine "logs" on the outside. Other than that, she
should be easier to build that any discussion of the
details is likely to allow.
By the way isn't that other dory 14'. That would be
why the clamps where a foot or two shorter that the
ones you put on your GLD
_______________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ca
> Check out Paul Vandebosch's site for the South Haven Dory at:in
>http://cruisenews.net/construction.html
>
> I am just finishing mine up. She is ready for paint. Paul's
> directions are very good, but I believe they are a couple glitches
> his dimensions.Thanks for the info. I checked out Paul's instructions -- very clear
and complete (and very generous of him). Your revisions should be
helpful. I couldn't find your files or the "Dinghy Cruising" group
URL?
How much did your boat end up weighing and how much epoxy did you use?
Thanks again, Doug
I forgot which group I was posting to. The files I mentioned are in
the "Dinghy Cruising" group file area, not the Bolger Group area.
There has been a bunch of discussion of the South Haven Dory there,
so you may want to check it out.
Pete
the "Dinghy Cruising" group file area, not the Bolger Group area.
There has been a bunch of discussion of the South Haven Dory there,
so you may want to check it out.
Pete
--- In bolger@y..., DougCulhane@a... wrote:
http://cruisenews.net/construction.html
I am just finishing mine up. She is ready for paint. Paul's
directions are very good, but I believe they are a couple glitches in
his dimensions.
First the overall dimensions, he lists it about a foot shorter that
mine is and I am pretty sure I followed the directions to the tee as
far as the offstes at least. He says something like 14'4" and mine
is something like 15'7". The arched top I put on my transom adds
maybe a couple inches though.
He said that the shear clamps were 15'2" They are actually more like
16'2" (I managed to make 16' lumber suffice w/o scarfing).
The only way I can see how this can be is that he either is wrong or
used a different set of offsets than the ones on his site, but maybe
I am nuts. I wouldn't be the first time.
Early on there was an error in the offsets table for the sides. He
corrected it on his site, but be sure you don't get an old copy from
somewhere else.
He also had the transom listed as 26" long when it is actually 32",
but I believe he has corrected that as well.
Don't get me wrong, Paul did a great job. The errors are all ones
that will become obvious as you build the boat. If you didn't check
as you went along, you might have wasted some wood though.
The boat can be entirely built from three sheets of 1/4" and one 16'
2X4 (except for the seat top which none of the scrap was quite big
enough for). Paul used some 1/2" for the center frames and seat top.
I think that my seat assembly is an improvement over the one Paul
used. There are some pictures of the frame for mine in the files
section of this group. It uses 1/4 ply for the frames and some of
the left over wood from the 2X4 to complete the seat top. (I ripped
it into 5 equal pieces and used 4 for the shearclamps).
I also used double-thick laminated outer shear clamps and no inner
shearclamp. This is a personal preference thing. Paul's shearclamps
are prettier, but more trouble to build and paint. He pointed out
that they also make for a better handhold when lifting the boat.
One other thing, Paul likes to make the bottom too big and trim the
bow section after the stern is already stitched. I found this
awkward and would prefer to cut it close to proper size to start
with. I re-drew the bottom 1-1/2" shorter and with a slightly
thinner taper in the ends. I didn't use these new offsets to build
this boat but I plan to use them if I build another. I would be
willing to share them if anyone feels adventurous enough to use them.
On a similar note, Paul likes to use a LOT of stitches. I think 1/2
to 2/3 as many would be about right.
Note that these last three paragraphs reflect my personal preferences
and are in no way intened to say that my way is better.
I will try to add some more pictures this weekend, if I get to it. I
would also be happy to upload my offsets table for the sides as well
as an Autocad drawing (DXF, DWF, or DWG?) for the panels if anyone is
interested.
Pete Staehling
> I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch andanyone
> glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does
> have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glueCheck out Paul Vandebosch's site for the South Haven Dory at:
> Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
> information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
> Doug (new to group)
http://cruisenews.net/construction.html
I am just finishing mine up. She is ready for paint. Paul's
directions are very good, but I believe they are a couple glitches in
his dimensions.
First the overall dimensions, he lists it about a foot shorter that
mine is and I am pretty sure I followed the directions to the tee as
far as the offstes at least. He says something like 14'4" and mine
is something like 15'7". The arched top I put on my transom adds
maybe a couple inches though.
He said that the shear clamps were 15'2" They are actually more like
16'2" (I managed to make 16' lumber suffice w/o scarfing).
The only way I can see how this can be is that he either is wrong or
used a different set of offsets than the ones on his site, but maybe
I am nuts. I wouldn't be the first time.
Early on there was an error in the offsets table for the sides. He
corrected it on his site, but be sure you don't get an old copy from
somewhere else.
He also had the transom listed as 26" long when it is actually 32",
but I believe he has corrected that as well.
Don't get me wrong, Paul did a great job. The errors are all ones
that will become obvious as you build the boat. If you didn't check
as you went along, you might have wasted some wood though.
The boat can be entirely built from three sheets of 1/4" and one 16'
2X4 (except for the seat top which none of the scrap was quite big
enough for). Paul used some 1/2" for the center frames and seat top.
I think that my seat assembly is an improvement over the one Paul
used. There are some pictures of the frame for mine in the files
section of this group. It uses 1/4 ply for the frames and some of
the left over wood from the 2X4 to complete the seat top. (I ripped
it into 5 equal pieces and used 4 for the shearclamps).
I also used double-thick laminated outer shear clamps and no inner
shearclamp. This is a personal preference thing. Paul's shearclamps
are prettier, but more trouble to build and paint. He pointed out
that they also make for a better handhold when lifting the boat.
One other thing, Paul likes to make the bottom too big and trim the
bow section after the stern is already stitched. I found this
awkward and would prefer to cut it close to proper size to start
with. I re-drew the bottom 1-1/2" shorter and with a slightly
thinner taper in the ends. I didn't use these new offsets to build
this boat but I plan to use them if I build another. I would be
willing to share them if anyone feels adventurous enough to use them.
On a similar note, Paul likes to use a LOT of stitches. I think 1/2
to 2/3 as many would be about right.
Note that these last three paragraphs reflect my personal preferences
and are in no way intened to say that my way is better.
I will try to add some more pictures this weekend, if I get to it. I
would also be happy to upload my offsets table for the sides as well
as an Autocad drawing (DXF, DWF, or DWG?) for the panels if anyone is
interested.
Pete Staehling
I've been looking over H. Payson's Glouster Light Dory book. I like
this boat and think it would be a good project. I know there's a
stitch and glue version of this boat out there (Payson uses stem and
chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet plywood
construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch and
glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does anyone
have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glue
Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
Doug (new to group)
this boat and think it would be a good project. I know there's a
stitch and glue version of this boat out there (Payson uses stem and
chines -- a combination of traditional and sheet plywood
construction). I saw plans advertised for the 17' stitch and
glue "oarling", but I like the lines of Payson's better. Does anyone
have information on where to get plans for the stitch and glue
Glouster Light Dory? Also if anyone's built this boat and has
information or insights to share it would be appreciated. Thanks.
Doug (new to group)