Re: Planing epoxy: how hard is it on blades?

Right you are, Peter. Gloves and glasses are a must. I add a
respirator when grinding epoxy and glass. And sound muffs are a good
idea, too. Those puppies are noisy!

I remember once getting a really purposeful, below the
belt, kickback from my 8" sander, while bending over
sanding the inside of an ama. You have to keep the
geometry of this animal favourable, or bad things can
happen.

ellengaest@...wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
 I noticed lately a few references
to using the right angle grinder 
for getting rid of stuff like epoxy and
fiberglass.This is a wonderful 
tool for such purposes but users should always keep in
mind the 
following: eye protection in a must when using the big
grits like Dan 
refers to(24/36) since you will be generating good
sized projectiles 
at a furious rate! Should you opt for something finer
like 120 
grit,then a face mask becomes a must as there will now
be clouds of 
fine particles floating about to clog your
airways! 
 It may also prove prudent to become
accustomed to wearing leather 
work gloves with this tool since even the slightest
contact with flesh 
will be impressive........ 
 Anyway,not to detract from any of
the hubris this machine may 
inspire(and it has so many nifty uses;like hollowing!)
but working 
safe is your best assurance of total enjoyment in boat
building. 

Sincerely, 
Peter Lenihan,nursing a nasty flu after a cold and wet
haul out,from 
the shores of the mighty St.Lawrence............ 
 
 
--- In bolger@y..., "Dan Bollinger"
<danbollinger@h...> wrote:

> You'll be fine if your electric planer has

carbide blades unless the

> panels were tabbed on with fiberglass tape.

Personally, I'd use an

> angle grinder with 24/36 grit.

</tt>

 



<table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC>
<td align=center>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor</td>
</tr>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFFF>
<td align=center width=470><table border=0
cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td align=center>ADVERTISEMENT <a
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=213858.1716664.3239746.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=763352/R=0/*http://www.classmates.com/index.tf?s=5085"
target=_top><img
src="http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/cl/classmates_com2/bll_lrec1.gif"
alt="" width="300" height="250"
border="0"></a></td></tr></table></td>
</tr>
<tr><td><img alt="" width=1 height=1
src="http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=213858.1716664.3239746.1261774/D=egroupmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=763352/rand=310527829"></td></tr>
</table>



 
<tt>
Bolger rules!!! 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses 
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like 
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
 

 
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>


</body></html>

_______________________________________________________
Build your own website for free and in minutes athttp://ca.geocities.com

I noticed lately a few references to using the right angle grinder
for getting rid of stuff like epoxy and fiberglass.This is a wonderful
tool for such purposes but users should always keep in mind the
following: eye protection in a must when using the big grits like Dan
refers to(24/36) since you will be generating good sized projectiles
at a furious rate! Should you opt for something finer like 120
grit,then a face mask becomes a must as there will now be clouds of
fine particles floating about to clog your airways!
It may also prove prudent to become accustomed to wearing leather
work gloves with this tool since even the slightest contact with flesh
will be impressive........
Anyway,not to detract from any of the hubris this machine may
inspire(and it has so many nifty uses;like hollowing!) but working
safe is your best assurance of total enjoyment in boat building.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,nursing a nasty flu after a cold and wet haul out,from
the shores of the mighty St.Lawrence............

--- In bolger@y..., "Dan Bollinger" <danbollinger@h...> wrote:
> You'll be fine if your electric planer has carbide blades unless the
> panels were tabbed on with fiberglass tape. Personally, I'd use an
> angle grinder with 24/36 grit.

You'll be fine if your electric planer has carbide blades unless the
panels were tabbed on with fiberglass tape. Personally, I'd use an
angle grinder with 24/36 grit.

--- In bolger@y..., John Kennedy <john.kennedy@g...> wrote:

> My Fireball is off-topic as a boat, but perhaps handling the old

epoxy is

> not.
>
> Come spring, I'm going to be replacing damaged panels on the bottom.

The

> old, damaged, panels are glued to longitudinal stringers - I'm

guessing with

> epoxy glue.
>
> I'm guessing that if I remove the panels by sawing alongside the

stringers,

> then chisel or plane away the rest, I can make the stringers

available to

> glue new panels onto them.
>
> How hard is old epoxy on chisel or plane blades? Am I going to be
> sharpening my blades every five minutes?
>
> Any advice on that problem you can offer?
>
> Thanks for the help.
> Hi John, Getting spring fever? If you're concerned about chisel

blades get a moderate cost chisel for the work and sharpen it as best
you can. After you saw along side the stringers as you suggest I would
recommend getting a japanese "Azebiki" saw and cutting into the panel
above the center of the stringers. That way you have a clean edge to
your repair. As I recommended some time ago get a medium size slick
for paring the remainder from the stringer. Sharpening is no big deal
and best learn now.__I don't think epoxy is particularly hard on edges
unless it has silica or some such in it. Glue joints are more than
likely to have microfibres which are not near as abrasive. The other
approach is to add a glueing strip alongside the present stringers but
that adds a little more weight; not a problem unless you are going to
the international Fireball regatta sometime.
Bob Chamberland_________________________

> ________________________________________________

________________________

>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

I've found it a useful trick to take the blade out of the plane, hold
it at 90 degrees, and use it as a scraper. One of these days I'll have
to get one of those official scrapers. Especially when the epoxy is
only a day old it does a nice job. Does need occasional sharpening.

--- In bolger@y..., thomas dalzell <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> It would depend on there being any fasteners there,
> and also on any stuff added to the epoxy, that might
> harden it, and the brand. I used a Japanese plane
> extensively while making my tri, and plane all sorts
> of stuff with it. They have a very agresive hook
> angle, and will keep cutting even when duall. I
> planed glas, epoxy, and ply, and never sharpened it,
> since my stones where at home away formt he building
> shop. The sole of the plane being wood, needed a shoe
> when I was done. The original shoe had a really wide
> mouth on it, which was ideal.
>
> I use a polishing grinder with 40 to 80 grit paper on
> it for most of this kind of work, a belt sander is
> another option.
>
>
> --- John Kennedy <john.kennedy@g...> wrote:
>
> <HR>
> <html><body>
> <tt>
> My Fireball is off-topic as a boat, but perhaps
> handling the old epoxy is 
> not. 
> 
> Come spring, I'm going to be replacing damaged panels
> on the bottom. The 
> old, damaged, panels are glued to longitudinal
> stringers - I'm guessing with 
> epoxy glue. 
> 
> I'm guessing that if I remove the panels by sawing
> alongside the stringers, 
> then chisel or plane away the rest, I can make the
> stringers available to 
> glue new panels onto them. 
> 
> How hard is old epoxy on chisel or plane blades?
> Am I going to be 
> sharpening my blades every five minutes? 
> 
> Any advice on that problem you can offer? 
> 
> Thanks for the help. 
> ____________________________ 
>
______________________________________________________________________
__ 
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to <a
>
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">http://docs.yahoo.com/info/te
rms/</a>
> 
> 
> </tt>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> <table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2>
> <tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC>
> <td align=center> color=#003399>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor</td>
> </tr>
> <tr bgcolor=#FFFFFF>
> <td align=center width=470><table border=0
> cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td align=center> face=arial size=-2>ADVERTISEMENT <a
>
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=194081.1637497.3177299.1261774/D=egroupweb
/S=1705065791:HM/A=795262/R=0/*http://www.ediets.com/start.cfm?code=32
57"targe
> t=_top><img
>
src="http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ed/ediets/tan_300x250_01.gif"
alt="Click
> Here!" width="300" height="250"
> border="0"></a></td></tr></table></td>
> </tr>
> <tr><td><img alt="" width=1 height=1
>
src="http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=194081.1637497.3177299.1261774/D
=egroupmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=795262/rand=330891457"></td></tr>
> </table>
>
> 
>
>
> 
> <tt>
> Bolger rules!!! 
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
> dead horses 
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
> topic, and punctuate 
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
> snip all you like 
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
> - Unsubscribe:
> bolger-unsubscribe@y...</tt>
> 
>
> 
> <tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
> href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
> of Service</a>.</tt>
> 
>
> </body></html>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ca

It would depend on there being any fasteners there,
and also on any stuff added to the epoxy, that might
harden it, and the brand. I used a Japanese plane
extensively while making my tri, and plane all sorts
of stuff with it. They have a very agresive hook
angle, and will keep cutting even when duall. I
planed glas, epoxy, and ply, and never sharpened it,
since my stones where at home away formt he building
shop. The sole of the plane being wood, needed a shoe
when I was done. The original shoe had a really wide
mouth on it, which was ideal.

I use a polishing grinder with 40 to 80 grit paper on
it for most of this kind of work, a belt sander is
another option.

--- John Kennedy <john.kennedy@...> wrote:

<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
My Fireball is off-topic as a boat, but perhaps
handling the old epoxy is 
not. 
 
Come spring, I'm going to be replacing damaged panels
on the bottom. The 
old, damaged, panels are glued to longitudinal
stringers - I'm guessing with 
epoxy glue. 
 
I'm guessing that if I remove the panels by sawing
alongside the stringers, 
then chisel or plane away the rest, I can make the
stringers available to 
glue new panels onto them. 
 
How hard is old epoxy on chisel or plane blades?
Am I going to be 
sharpening my blades every five minutes? 
 
Any advice on that problem you can offer? 
 
Thanks for the help. 
____________________________ 
________________________________________________________________________ 
 
 
 
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/</a>
 
 
</tt>

 



<table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC>
<td align=center>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor</td>
</tr>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFFF>
<td align=center width=470><table border=0
cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td align=center>ADVERTISEMENT <a
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=194081.1637497.3177299.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=795262/R=0/*http://www.ediets.com/start.cfm?code=3257"targe
t=_top><img
src="http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ed/ediets/tan_300x250_01.gif"alt="Click
Here!" width="300" height="250"
border="0"></a></td></tr></table></td>
</tr>
<tr><td><img alt="" width=1 height=1
src="http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=194081.1637497.3177299.1261774/D=egroupmail/S=1705065791:HM/A=795262/rand=330891457"></td></tr>
</table>



 
<tt>
Bolger rules!!! 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses 
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate 
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like 
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349 
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
 

 
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>


</body></html>

_______________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @... address athttp://mail.yahoo.ca

One thing that might be helpful would be a heat gun. If you cut, chisel, and scrape the ply until there is only a thin layer of wood, you can heat the epoxy joint, and scrape the remainder down to the exact original surface of the stringer.

Chuck

It would depend on there being any fasteners there,
and also on any stuff added to the epoxy, that might
harden it, and the brand. I used a Japanese plane
extensively while making my tri, and plane all sorts
of stuff with it. They have a very agresive hook
angle, and will keep cutting even when duall. I
planed glas, epoxy, and ply, and never sharpened it,
since my stones where at home away formt he building
shop. The sole of the plane being wood, needed a shoe
when I was done. The original shoe had a really wide
mouth on it, which was ideal.

I use a polishing grinder with 40 to 80 grit paper on
it for most of this kind of work, a belt sander is
another option.

--- John Kennedy <john.kennedy@...> wrote:

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

in my experience, it can be pretty tough on blades. I keep a set of old,
cheap chisels for this kind of stuff, never get my nice ones near it, it
just takes to long to restore the edge to a fine woodworking sharpness
afterwards.
How about a grinder? You could even hollow out the bottoms of the stringers
in the process, like Peter Lenihan suggests (see files/how to/hollow). This
would also give you a better place to hold the epoxy as you get the new
panels into place (assuming you'll be working upside down....) and give a
fuller bond.

Paul L.

>

My Fireball is off-topic as a boat, but perhaps handling the old epoxy is
not.

Come spring, I'm going to be replacing damaged panels on the bottom. The
old, damaged, panels are glued to longitudinal stringers - I'm guessing with
epoxy glue.

I'm guessing that if I remove the panels by sawing alongside the stringers,
then chisel or plane away the rest, I can make the stringers available to
glue new panels onto them.

How hard is old epoxy on chisel or plane blades? Am I going to be
sharpening my blades every five minutes?

Any advice on that problem you can offer?

Thanks for the help.
____________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/