RE: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
"Does anyone know whether water molecules are a
catalyst, or a
fixed-proportion component of the cured adhesive?"
I don't really know, though usually with this kind of
thing it isn't either, the water alters the PH, and
that kicks off the cure. But that is just a guess.
I don't worrry all that much about the foam: 1) it
tends to be just squeeze out from a tight joint, and
just makes scarping up the excess easier, though it
sometimes means a pitting in minor gaps which is no
advantage; 2)in fat joints it fills the gap, though
with PL it is stiff enough to fill most gaps, but with
poly glue the results are admirable in this regarrd;
3)There is the issue of not as strong, but strong
enough. Stronger than strong enough is not something
I work to hard to acheive. Whether the foamed glue is
in fact strong enough is another matter and up to
individual analysis. I know that on the sidding job I
am currently working on you have to hit the clean up
right on the target: if wet it smears all over the
place; soft is ok; medium hard is hard enough to rip
off layers of paint and underlying wood; in the ned it
gets pretty hard, though not as hard as epoxy.
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catalyst, or a
fixed-proportion component of the cured adhesive?"
I don't really know, though usually with this kind of
thing it isn't either, the water alters the PH, and
that kicks off the cure. But that is just a guess.
I don't worrry all that much about the foam: 1) it
tends to be just squeeze out from a tight joint, and
just makes scarping up the excess easier, though it
sometimes means a pitting in minor gaps which is no
advantage; 2)in fat joints it fills the gap, though
with PL it is stiff enough to fill most gaps, but with
poly glue the results are admirable in this regarrd;
3)There is the issue of not as strong, but strong
enough. Stronger than strong enough is not something
I work to hard to acheive. Whether the foamed glue is
in fact strong enough is another matter and up to
individual analysis. I know that on the sidding job I
am currently working on you have to hit the clean up
right on the target: if wet it smears all over the
place; soft is ok; medium hard is hard enough to rip
off layers of paint and underlying wood; in the ned it
gets pretty hard, though not as hard as epoxy.
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Ive noticed foaming with both types. There is usually enough water in
ambient air to cure the joint. My sense is that the strength of the
joint is inversely proportional to the extent of foam formation. I
would not add water, by spraying or wetting, unless I had to (maybe if
the interior of the joint is likely to be water-starved because the
joint is wide, or youre gluing metal-clad or non-wood materials, or the
air is very dry).
Even then, I might only exhale on the joint just before putting it
together. All in the interest of low-to-no foaming.
Does anyone know whether water molecules are a catalyst, or a
fixed-proportion component of the cured adhesive?
Also, (for John Bell) yes please, post Richard Jagels comments about
Gorilla Glue.
Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd [mailto:bitme1234@...]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:12 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
I'm in the proccess of Building Jim Michalak's Mayfly 12 and using pl
premium and bronze ringed shanked boat nails. The stuff seems alot
easier to work with compared to L.Q. nails.Dries harder ,sands easier
and is easier to spread on wood before nailing together.
I have noticed working with pl premium , that i get a better bond if
i don't use high clamping pressure and squeeze all the glue out of
the joint.
Todd
http://www.geocities.com/bitme1234/myfly_on__balcony.html
ambient air to cure the joint. My sense is that the strength of the
joint is inversely proportional to the extent of foam formation. I
would not add water, by spraying or wetting, unless I had to (maybe if
the interior of the joint is likely to be water-starved because the
joint is wide, or youre gluing metal-clad or non-wood materials, or the
air is very dry).
Even then, I might only exhale on the joint just before putting it
together. All in the interest of low-to-no foaming.
Does anyone know whether water molecules are a catalyst, or a
fixed-proportion component of the cured adhesive?
Also, (for John Bell) yes please, post Richard Jagels comments about
Gorilla Glue.
Bill Kreamer
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd [mailto:bitme1234@...]
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:12 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
I'm in the proccess of Building Jim Michalak's Mayfly 12 and using pl
premium and bronze ringed shanked boat nails. The stuff seems alot
easier to work with compared to L.Q. nails.Dries harder ,sands easier
and is easier to spread on wood before nailing together.
I have noticed working with pl premium , that i get a better bond if
i don't use high clamping pressure and squeeze all the glue out of
the joint.
Todd
http://www.geocities.com/bitme1234/myfly_on__balcony.html
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> hi all,
> recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left me
wondering. i have had more than one
> negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate the stuff....
so i bought some pl premium, and
> tried it out.
>
> I love this stuff!!!
>
> so my question is:
>
> has anyone here used the stuff below the waterline? or recommend
any other non epoxy based
> adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't find any "3m 5200".
>
> if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the boat glassed,
or not?
>
> I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.
>
> opinions wanted, thanks!
> Richard
>
> --
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
Edison
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've never used the caulking tube type of PL construction adhesive. Just
the liquid type in squeeze bottles. Gorilla Glue retails for $10.95 for the
bigger bottle locally and the PL Premium, Ace Hdwe PL, etc are around $6.00
or $7.00 each.
Here in CO, I do have a spray bottle handy to dampen both pieces before
using the glue or it takes for ever the set up. I quick light spray, spread
the glue, and it's foaming. It sets up to be able to remove clamps in a
couple of hours. Not full strength for 24 hours but enough that you can
continue building several times a day, rather than overnight for epoxy.
I'd recommend it. I've used it to glue bulkheads to the side panels, chine
logs, etc. Where needed, I used epoxy fillets and glass tape per plans, on
top of the PL glued joints.
It does speed up assembly for most of us weekend builders.
Jeff
the liquid type in squeeze bottles. Gorilla Glue retails for $10.95 for the
bigger bottle locally and the PL Premium, Ace Hdwe PL, etc are around $6.00
or $7.00 each.
Here in CO, I do have a spray bottle handy to dampen both pieces before
using the glue or it takes for ever the set up. I quick light spray, spread
the glue, and it's foaming. It sets up to be able to remove clamps in a
couple of hours. Not full strength for 24 hours but enough that you can
continue building several times a day, rather than overnight for epoxy.
I'd recommend it. I've used it to glue bulkheads to the side panels, chine
logs, etc. Where needed, I used epoxy fillets and glass tape per plans, on
top of the PL glued joints.
It does speed up assembly for most of us weekend builders.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bell" <jmbell@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
> You are paying too much for PL Premium. Ten ounce tubes at the local Big
> Orange Depot are less than $3.00/ea here. Are we talking about the same
> stuff in the caulking tubes?
>
> JB in Georgia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:48 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
>
>
> | I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue. They are great for the general
> | gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure
it
> | isn't more expensive. Most of the Gorilla Glue locally is about $10.00
> for
> | a 1/2 liter, and PL Premium is $7.00 for 16 oz. RAKA epoxy is about
> $35.00
> | a gal.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I'm in the proccess of Building Jim Michalak's Mayfly 12 and using pl
premium and bronze ringed shanked boat nails. The stuff seems alot
easier to work with compared to L.Q. nails.Dries harder ,sands easier
and is easier to spread on wood before nailing together.
I have noticed working with pl premium , that i get a better bond if
i don't use high clamping pressure and squeeze all the glue out of
the joint.
Todd
http://www.geocities.com/bitme1234/myfly_on__balcony.html
premium and bronze ringed shanked boat nails. The stuff seems alot
easier to work with compared to L.Q. nails.Dries harder ,sands easier
and is easier to spread on wood before nailing together.
I have noticed working with pl premium , that i get a better bond if
i don't use high clamping pressure and squeeze all the glue out of
the joint.
Todd
http://www.geocities.com/bitme1234/myfly_on__balcony.html
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
> hi all,
> recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left me
wondering. i have had more than one
> negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate the stuff....
so i bought some pl premium, and
> tried it out.
>
> I love this stuff!!!
>
> so my question is:
>
> has anyone here used the stuff below the waterline? or recommend
any other non epoxy based
> adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't find any "3m 5200".
>
> if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the boat glassed,
or not?
>
> I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.
>
> opinions wanted, thanks!
> Richard
>
> --
> To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas
Edison
Wow! You must live in Annapolis or some maritime
clime. If not, I don't know what the local HD's
excuse would be.
---micwal_va@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
<BR>
<BR>
I bought my 5200 at Home Depot. You have to look in
the aisle where <BR>
they sell caulking compounds not where they sell
glue.<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
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<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
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</br>
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_______________________________________________________
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clime. If not, I don't know what the local HD's
excuse would be.
---micwal_va@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
<BR>
> A quick glance in home depot, doesn'tfind any "3m 5200".<BR>
> <BR><BR>
<BR>
I bought my 5200 at Home Depot. You have to look in
the aisle where <BR>
they sell caulking compounds not where they sell
glue.<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
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Both versions of the adhesive foam as far as I know.
THey are supposed to be used with lightly wetted wood,
in theory the glue won't cure in zero mosture. When
one adds the water, it foams noticeably. I have been
using the construction ad. for construction, and it
foams, though the result is usually most noticeable
outside of the joint, if it is well nailed down.
---smacinko@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck"
<boatbuilding@g...> wrote:<BR>
About a year ago (seems like) we had this general
discussion of PL <BR>
Premium. As Fritz Funk (who has lots of PL
Premium-built boats under <BR>
his belt) noted then, there are two forms of "PL
Premium." One is a <BR>
foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue. It is thin,
spreads well with a <BR>
brush, foams, and is not gap filling (in terms of
strength). The second <BR>
is PL Premium Construction Adhesive which comes in
caulking gun tubes <BR>
(including the industrial size). The construction
adhesive version is <BR>
thicker, harder to spread, does not foam, is gap
filling (not to the <BR>
extent epoxy is but. . .), and is dirt cheap
(relatively speaking). No <BR>
endorsements here either way other than to say that my
daughter and I <BR>
built a Brick with Gorilla Glue that has sailed in
both the Atlantic <BR>
and the Gulf of Alaska and the Navel Jelly row boat
pictured in the <BR>
"files" section was built with PL Premium
Construction Adhesive. <BR>
<BR>
Seth<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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THey are supposed to be used with lightly wetted wood,
in theory the glue won't cure in zero mosture. When
one adds the water, it foams noticeably. I have been
using the construction ad. for construction, and it
foams, though the result is usually most noticeable
outside of the joint, if it is well nailed down.
---smacinko@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck"
<boatbuilding@g...> wrote:<BR>
> I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue.They are great for the general<BR>
> gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc.Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure it<BR>
> isn't more expensive. <BR><BR>
About a year ago (seems like) we had this general
discussion of PL <BR>
Premium. As Fritz Funk (who has lots of PL
Premium-built boats under <BR>
his belt) noted then, there are two forms of "PL
Premium." One is a <BR>
foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue. It is thin,
spreads well with a <BR>
brush, foams, and is not gap filling (in terms of
strength). The second <BR>
is PL Premium Construction Adhesive which comes in
caulking gun tubes <BR>
(including the industrial size). The construction
adhesive version is <BR>
thicker, harder to spread, does not foam, is gap
filling (not to the <BR>
extent epoxy is but. . .), and is dirt cheap
(relatively speaking). No <BR>
endorsements here either way other than to say that my
daughter and I <BR>
built a Brick with Gorilla Glue that has sailed in
both the Atlantic <BR>
and the Gulf of Alaska and the Navel Jelly row boat
pictured in the <BR>
"files" section was built with PL Premium
Construction Adhesive. <BR>
<BR>
Seth<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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I believe Richard Jagels wrote a column about Gorilla Glue in WoodenBoat a
few years back. I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty certain that Gorilla
Glue did not perform well at all on wet wood compared to epoxy and
resorcinol. If I can find the article I'll distill it for us here if any are
interested.
JB
few years back. I'll have to look it up, but I'm pretty certain that Gorilla
Glue did not perform well at all on wet wood compared to epoxy and
resorcinol. If I can find the article I'll distill it for us here if any are
interested.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: <smacinko@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 9:30 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?/ Clarification
| --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
| > I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue. They are great for the general
| > gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure
it
| > isn't more expensive.
|
| About a year ago (seems like) we had this general discussion of PL
| Premium. As Fritz Funk (who has lots of PL Premium-built boats under
| his belt) noted then, there are two forms of "PL Premium." One is a
| foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue.
In using PL Premium construction adhesive, I have noted some mild foaming or
outgassing during cure.
It's good stuff for instant boats, though.
outgassing during cure.
It's good stuff for instant boats, though.
----- Original Message -----
From: <smacinko@...>
there are two forms of "PL Premium." One is a
| foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue. It is thin, spreads well with a
| brush, foams, and is not gap filling (in terms of strength). The second
| is PL Premium Construction Adhesive which comes in caulking gun tubes
| (including the industrial size). The construction adhesive version is
| thicker, harder to spread, does not foam, is gap filling (not to the
| extent epoxy is but. . .), and is dirt cheap (relatively speaking).
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
Premium. As Fritz Funk (who has lots of PL Premium-built boats under
his belt) noted then, there are two forms of "PL Premium." One is a
foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue. It is thin, spreads well with a
brush, foams, and is not gap filling (in terms of strength). The second
is PL Premium Construction Adhesive which comes in caulking gun tubes
(including the industrial size). The construction adhesive version is
thicker, harder to spread, does not foam, is gap filling (not to the
extent epoxy is but. . .), and is dirt cheap (relatively speaking). No
endorsements here either way other than to say that my daughter and I
built a Brick with Gorilla Glue that has sailed in both the Atlantic
and the Gulf of Alaska and the Navel Jelly row boat pictured in the
"files" section was built with PL Premium Construction Adhesive.
Seth
> I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue. They are great for the generalAbout a year ago (seems like) we had this general discussion of PL
> gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure it
> isn't more expensive.
Premium. As Fritz Funk (who has lots of PL Premium-built boats under
his belt) noted then, there are two forms of "PL Premium." One is a
foaming glue similar to Gorilla Glue. It is thin, spreads well with a
brush, foams, and is not gap filling (in terms of strength). The second
is PL Premium Construction Adhesive which comes in caulking gun tubes
(including the industrial size). The construction adhesive version is
thicker, harder to spread, does not foam, is gap filling (not to the
extent epoxy is but. . .), and is dirt cheap (relatively speaking). No
endorsements here either way other than to say that my daughter and I
built a Brick with Gorilla Glue that has sailed in both the Atlantic
and the Gulf of Alaska and the Navel Jelly row boat pictured in the
"files" section was built with PL Premium Construction Adhesive.
Seth
> A quick glance in home depot, doesn't find any "3m 5200".I bought my 5200 at Home Depot. You have to look in the aisle where
>
they sell caulking compounds not where they sell glue.
You are paying too much for PL Premium. Ten ounce tubes at the local Big
Orange Depot are less than $3.00/ea here. Are we talking about the same
stuff in the caulking tubes?
JB in Georgia
Orange Depot are less than $3.00/ea here. Are we talking about the same
stuff in the caulking tubes?
JB in Georgia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: building with pl premium?
| I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue. They are great for the general
| gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure it
| isn't more expensive. Most of the Gorilla Glue locally is about $10.00
for
| a 1/2 liter, and PL Premium is $7.00 for 16 oz. RAKA epoxy is about
$35.00
| a gal.
I have used PL Premium and Gorilla Glue. They are great for the general
gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure it
isn't more expensive. Most of the Gorilla Glue locally is about $10.00 for
a 1/2 liter, and PL Premium is $7.00 for 16 oz. RAKA epoxy is about $35.00
a gal.
For a lot of boat building, it's just faster and easier to use than epoxy.
I hate mixing epoxy for small glue jobs, expecially when assembling
bulkheads. I wouldn't use it where water can soak into the joint. It foams
as it cures and I believe water would penetrate the joint easy enough.
Above water line or something that will be well protected from water, yes, I
would use it with no reservations.
One thing I have noticed, the harder the wood or tighter the grained, the
better the joint. When gluing white ash to itself, the PL glue is tough
stuff. Just proves that PL does not fill gaps well. Clamp very tight when
using.
Jeff
gluing of bulkheads, chine logs, etc. Compared to epoxy, I'm not sure it
isn't more expensive. Most of the Gorilla Glue locally is about $10.00 for
a 1/2 liter, and PL Premium is $7.00 for 16 oz. RAKA epoxy is about $35.00
a gal.
For a lot of boat building, it's just faster and easier to use than epoxy.
I hate mixing epoxy for small glue jobs, expecially when assembling
bulkheads. I wouldn't use it where water can soak into the joint. It foams
as it cures and I believe water would penetrate the joint easy enough.
Above water line or something that will be well protected from water, yes, I
would use it with no reservations.
One thing I have noticed, the harder the wood or tighter the grained, the
better the joint. When gluing white ash to itself, the PL glue is tough
stuff. Just proves that PL does not fill gaps well. Clamp very tight when
using.
Jeff
--- In bolger@y..., Richard <rocwandrer@p...> wrote:
below the waterline of my AF4.
The chines are taped but the rest of the plywood (BC pine)
has only latex primer and latex paint.
After one season of use, nothing has come loose, although
everything is backed up by screws.
I am using it on the boat I am building now.
Max
>not?
> if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the boat glassed, or
>I used P L Premium construction adhesive both above and
below the waterline of my AF4.
The chines are taped but the rest of the plywood (BC pine)
has only latex primer and latex paint.
After one season of use, nothing has come loose, although
everything is backed up by screws.
I am using it on the boat I am building now.
Max
I am interested in this question also. Conceptualy,
poly glues like gorilla glue have been marketed as
completely waterproof glues for boatbuilding for some
time now. PL Premium is certainly cheaper than these
refined glues. Of course epoxy is used for many
things, from fileting to sheathing, for which I do not
think PL is appropriate, and which are the heart of
modern wooden boat building. On the other hand, I
imagine PL would be a nice abition to a boat that was
nailled together,
--- Richard <rocwandrer@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
hi all,<BR>
recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left
me wondering. i have had more than one<BR>
negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate
the stuff.... so i bought some pl premium, and<BR>
tried it out.<BR>
<BR>
I love this stuff!!!<BR>
<BR>
so my question is:<BR>
<BR>
has anyone here used the stuff below the
waterline? or recommend any other non epoxy
based<BR>
adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't
find any "3m 5200".<BR>
<BR>
if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the
boat glassed, or not?<BR>
<BR>
I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.<BR>
<BR>
opinions wanted, thanks!<BR>
Richard<BR>
<BR>
--<BR>
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of
junk. --Thomas Edison<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>
</br>
</body></html>
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
poly glues like gorilla glue have been marketed as
completely waterproof glues for boatbuilding for some
time now. PL Premium is certainly cheaper than these
refined glues. Of course epoxy is used for many
things, from fileting to sheathing, for which I do not
think PL is appropriate, and which are the heart of
modern wooden boat building. On the other hand, I
imagine PL would be a nice abition to a boat that was
nailled together,
--- Richard <rocwandrer@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
hi all,<BR>
recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left
me wondering. i have had more than one<BR>
negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate
the stuff.... so i bought some pl premium, and<BR>
tried it out.<BR>
<BR>
I love this stuff!!!<BR>
<BR>
so my question is:<BR>
<BR>
has anyone here used the stuff below the
waterline? or recommend any other non epoxy
based<BR>
adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't
find any "3m 5200".<BR>
<BR>
if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the
boat glassed, or not?<BR>
<BR>
I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.<BR>
<BR>
opinions wanted, thanks!<BR>
Richard<BR>
<BR>
--<BR>
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of
junk. --Thomas Edison<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
<!-- |**|begin egp html banner|**| -->
<table border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFCC>
<td align=center><font size="-1"
color=#003399><b>Yahoo! Groups Sponsor</b></font></td>
</tr>
<tr bgcolor=#FFFFFF>
<td align=center width=470><table border=0
cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0><tr><td align=center><font
face=arial size=-2>ADVERTISEMENT</font><br><a
href="http://rd.yahoo.com/M=213858.1727639.3250013.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=763352/R=0/*http://www.classmates.com/index.tf?s=5085"
target=_top><img
src="http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/cl/classmates_com2/bll_lrec1.gif"
alt="" width="300" height="250"
border="0"></a></td></tr></table></td>
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<br>
<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
<br>
<br>
<tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms
of Service</a>.</tt>
</br>
</body></html>
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
hi all,
recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left me wondering. i have had more than one
negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate the stuff.... so i bought some pl premium, and
tried it out.
I love this stuff!!!
so my question is:
has anyone here used the stuff below the waterline? or recommend any other non epoxy based
adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't find any "3m 5200".
if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the boat glassed, or not?
I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.
opinions wanted, thanks!
Richard
--
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas Edison
recent (and past) discussions of pl premium glue left me wondering. i have had more than one
negative experience with epoxy in the past, and hate the stuff.... so i bought some pl premium, and
tried it out.
I love this stuff!!!
so my question is:
has anyone here used the stuff below the waterline? or recommend any other non epoxy based
adhesive? A quick glance in home depot, doesn't find any "3m 5200".
if you used Pl premium below the waterline, was the boat glassed, or not?
I am stalling by cutting out parts etc.
opinions wanted, thanks!
Richard
--
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. --Thomas Edison