Fiji

I cannot find among my old MSAIB's the third article about Fiji (Nov 1,
2002). Are the articles scanned and posted somewhere?
Hi Frank

Those are Bolger designed changes - the original AS39 carried about [IIRC]
3000lb of lead in the bilge. I'm no boat designer, but it seems that
spreading the ballast weight out along the bottom would prevent the bow
rising quite as quickly to a sea. The gains in terms of impact and abrasion
resistance are obvious.

The french text [from memory] says that the plates had the curve of the
bottom rolled into them by the fabrication yard, where they were blasted
clean and epoxy primer was applied. The primer was retouched after grinding
off the lifting loops.

cheers
Derek
Thanks, Derek. Interesting photos—even if I couldn’t understand the French.
Man, that’s a big boat, aint’ it? Is plating the bottom of the AS39 part of
Bolger’s design? I’ve not heard that before. If not, wouldn’t that added
weight affect the intended performance? --Frank

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Waters [mailto:dgw@...]

AS39 with bottom being plated in steel at
http://cf.geocities.com/lecabotin/photos2.htm[in French]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hal,

AS39 with bottom being plated in steel at
http://cf.geocities.com/lecabotin/photos2.htm[in French]

cheers
Derek
On Wednesday, August 20, 2003, at 09:55 AM, Derek Waters wrote:

> IIRC, Jean and Gaby have some pictures on their 'le Cabotin' webpage.


The URL please.

hal
Hi Frank

PB&F have done an article in a recent MAIB on their steel cladding system -
Fiji probably uses a variant.

Fairly small plates, to limit expansion / contraction movement. Bolt with
heads countersunk in steel plate, through oversized holes [filled with
3M5200] with fender washers and nuts. Plate perimeters sealed with a bead of
5200.

IIRC, Jean and Gaby have some pictures on their 'le Cabotin' webpage.

cheers
Derek
I'm not sure how Bolger does it on the Fiji but when he talks about applying
a layer of copper sheath to a boat, the bottom is liberally slathered in
roofing tar and the sheathing is nailed to the hull with copper nails.

I can imagine that when using steel you could pre-drill the holes larger,
fill with epoxy, then re-drill the holes to the required size. Using bolts
with large washers well bedded with say 5200 along with a liberal dose of
roofing tar between the steel and hull bottom. As you tighten up the bolts,
the tar would ooze out and fill any gaps. I would hazzard a guess that care
should be taken not to bear down too much on the bolts. Just tight enough
to stop free movement but loose enough to allow the hull/steel surfaces to
move and adjust to different expansion rates, the tar would stretch and
shrink as needed with out allowing water to penetrate.

Lot's of work but it may just be worth it.

Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Bales" <fbales@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2003 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Fiji


Thanks for the reply, Peter, but even with the epoxy/glass wouldn't that
still be an avenue for leaks over time? Doesn't epoxy/glass check/crack
over time? I understand this would make the bottom bullet-proof, but is it
really necessary? I guess I just don't understand the concept. --FrankB

-----Original Message-----
From: pvanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]

> danger of water getting between the steel and wood bottom

As I recall, there is a layer of epoxy/glass in between. The method
for attaching the steel plate if fairly elaborate, including some
room for movement around the bolts to allow for different rates of
thermal expansion.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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FYI-

There is a write-up of Fiji, a 39' 'go anywhere' Bolger sailboat in
Boat Design Quarterly No. 22. This design strikes me as a sailing
version of Tahiti.

Check it out!

Mike