Re: [bolger] Re: plexiglass v. lexan & laminated v toughened glass
On 7 Jan 2002, at 4:54, dbaldnz wrote:
also: countersinking the drill holes on the outside just a little bit will
help a lot in preventing cracks starting under the heads of the
bolts/scews.
hannes
> than adequate. Lexan is easier to scratch than Plexiglass. Goodtrue.
> practice such as allowing lots of clearance around screws for
> expansion should be followed whatever is used.
>
also: countersinking the drill holes on the outside just a little bit will
help a lot in preventing cracks starting under the heads of the
bolts/scews.
hannes
Yes, that's right Bob, I think the surface is heat treated. When
bashed (though its strong) too hard, it breaks into chunks without
sharp edges. I should ask further why it is prefered to laminated,
but the 3 experts I talked to were completely dismissive about
laminated, apart from mentioning unreliable discolor of the binding
layer. I will report back.
DonB
bashed (though its strong) too hard, it breaks into chunks without
sharp edges. I should ask further why it is prefered to laminated,
but the 3 experts I talked to were completely dismissive about
laminated, apart from mentioning unreliable discolor of the binding
layer. I will report back.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "rdchamberland" <cha62759@t...> wrote:
> Hi Don, Of course the horse has left the barn, I have already
> installed laminated glass in my Hawkeye. I don't understand why the
> negatives about laminated glass; it was used for ages in
> automobiles with generally decent performance. Really my question is
> about "toughened glass". Is this "Tempered glass" or some altogether
> different manifestation?
> Bob Chamberland
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <dbaldnz@y...> wrote:
>
> > Laminated v Toughened glass-
> > None had anything good to say about laminated glass, which they
say
> > is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All recommended
toughened.
> >
> > DonB
> >
Sounds like a prudent choice.
The "Laminated Glass" Is the right choice for the Front.
(Especially if landing on hostile shores.)
I belive one of the problems with "Plex" is that it is not
installed properly. (Cheap plastic, cheap installation)
I have ask my old "Glass guy" about Lexan and Plex.
He alway says Lexan Is Much better. One of the reasons
is that it is not as prone too "Cracking" where screw
holes are put in.
Plex on the other hand will Very Easily crack at those points.
Therefore, I believe intallation is "Very Important".
It can have No pressure points that will cause a crack to start.
A frame should support the Plex all the way around to make sure
the pressure is even.
I would think that if it could be intalled without "Screw holes"
thought the plex, that would be Ideal.
No holes, no place for a crack to start.
It might be my paranoia having worked some with Plex, but I
think any sharp corners should be slightly rounded to relieve
pressure there as well.
At worst, even if one or two of these things do break, it will
be cheaper to replace them, than to start with all Lexan.
(That's why God made Duck Tape)
One other thought. Standard "Glass" Can be "Tempered" after it
is cut to the size you want.
Not break proof, but tougher to break than un-tempered.
If it does break, it shatters into many small piece, and does
not leave dangerous "Shards". (Required in Commercial Display
Cases for that reason.)
I would not want to have to clean up a broken "Tempered" window.
Weight would be a Lot more than Bolger's specified "Plasic".
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
The "Laminated Glass" Is the right choice for the Front.
(Especially if landing on hostile shores.)
I belive one of the problems with "Plex" is that it is not
installed properly. (Cheap plastic, cheap installation)
I have ask my old "Glass guy" about Lexan and Plex.
He alway says Lexan Is Much better. One of the reasons
is that it is not as prone too "Cracking" where screw
holes are put in.
Plex on the other hand will Very Easily crack at those points.
Therefore, I believe intallation is "Very Important".
It can have No pressure points that will cause a crack to start.
A frame should support the Plex all the way around to make sure
the pressure is even.
I would think that if it could be intalled without "Screw holes"
thought the plex, that would be Ideal.
No holes, no place for a crack to start.
It might be my paranoia having worked some with Plex, but I
think any sharp corners should be slightly rounded to relieve
pressure there as well.
At worst, even if one or two of these things do break, it will
be cheaper to replace them, than to start with all Lexan.
(That's why God made Duck Tape)
One other thought. Standard "Glass" Can be "Tempered" after it
is cut to the size you want.
Not break proof, but tougher to break than un-tempered.
If it does break, it shatters into many small piece, and does
not leave dangerous "Shards". (Required in Commercial Display
Cases for that reason.)
I would not want to have to clean up a broken "Tempered" window.
Weight would be a Lot more than Bolger's specified "Plasic".
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> Thanks, Don. After the comments I have received, I am
> going for Plexi for the side windows, despite MY
> supplier's insistence that only Lexan is suitable for
> marine use (I suspect a vested interest).
> I am not familiar with the "toughened glass," but it
> is too late anyway, as I have already ordered the big
> front glass panels cut from laminated safety glass. I
> am going to use them come hell or high water, having
> mortgaged the house and spent my kids' college fund to
> buy them. With any luck, I'll stick a boat hook
> through 'em in a year or two and will check out the
> toughened glass option.
>
> --- dbaldnz <dbaldnz@y...> wrote:
> > Sam, another can of worms, as many opinions as
> > answerers!
> > Well here is my abbreviated research for my
> > Navigator.
> > I talked to general suppliers and marine window
> > specialists.
> >
> > Plexiglass v Lexan-
> > Most suppliers asked why I would want to spend all
> > that money on
> > lexan. They say suitable grade of Plexiglass for
> > marine use is more
> > than adequate.
> > Lexan is easier to scratch than Plexiglass. Good
> > practice such as
> > allowing lots of clearance around screws for
> > expansion should be
> > followed whatever is used.
> >
> > Laminated v Toughened glass-
> > None had anything good to say about laminated glass,
> > which they say
> > is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All
> > recommended toughened.
> >
> > DonB
> >
> >
> > > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> > >http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
Hi Don, Of course the horse has left the barn, I have already
installed laminated glass in my Hawkeye. I don't understand why the
negatives about laminated glass; it was used for ages in
automobiles with generally decent performance. Really my question is
about "toughened glass". Is this "Tempered glass" or some altogether
different manifestation?
Bob Chamberland
installed laminated glass in my Hawkeye. I don't understand why the
negatives about laminated glass; it was used for ages in
automobiles with generally decent performance. Really my question is
about "toughened glass". Is this "Tempered glass" or some altogether
different manifestation?
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <dbaldnz@y...> wrote:
> Laminated v Toughened glass-
> None had anything good to say about laminated glass, which they say
> is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All recommended toughened.
>
> DonB
>
Thanks, Don. After the comments I have received, I am
going for Plexi for the side windows, despite MY
supplier's insistence that only Lexan is suitable for
marine use (I suspect a vested interest).
I am not familiar with the "toughened glass," but it
is too late anyway, as I have already ordered the big
front glass panels cut from laminated safety glass. I
am going to use them come hell or high water, having
mortgaged the house and spent my kids' college fund to
buy them. With any luck, I'll stick a boat hook
through 'em in a year or two and will check out the
toughened glass option.
--- dbaldnz <dbaldnz@...> wrote:
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Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
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going for Plexi for the side windows, despite MY
supplier's insistence that only Lexan is suitable for
marine use (I suspect a vested interest).
I am not familiar with the "toughened glass," but it
is too late anyway, as I have already ordered the big
front glass panels cut from laminated safety glass. I
am going to use them come hell or high water, having
mortgaged the house and spent my kids' college fund to
buy them. With any luck, I'll stick a boat hook
through 'em in a year or two and will check out the
toughened glass option.
--- dbaldnz <dbaldnz@...> wrote:
> Sam, another can of worms, as many opinions as__________________________________________________
> answerers!
> Well here is my abbreviated research for my
> Navigator.
> I talked to general suppliers and marine window
> specialists.
>
> Plexiglass v Lexan-
> Most suppliers asked why I would want to spend all
> that money on
> lexan. They say suitable grade of Plexiglass for
> marine use is more
> than adequate.
> Lexan is easier to scratch than Plexiglass. Good
> practice such as
> allowing lots of clearance around screws for
> expansion should be
> followed whatever is used.
>
> Laminated v Toughened glass-
> None had anything good to say about laminated glass,
> which they say
> is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All
> recommended toughened.
>
> DonB
>
>
> > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> >http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
Sam, another can of worms, as many opinions as answerers!
Well here is my abbreviated research for my Navigator.
I talked to general suppliers and marine window specialists.
Plexiglass v Lexan-
Most suppliers asked why I would want to spend all that money on
lexan. They say suitable grade of Plexiglass for marine use is more
than adequate.
Lexan is easier to scratch than Plexiglass. Good practice such as
allowing lots of clearance around screws for expansion should be
followed whatever is used.
Laminated v Toughened glass-
None had anything good to say about laminated glass, which they say
is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All recommended toughened.
DonB
Well here is my abbreviated research for my Navigator.
I talked to general suppliers and marine window specialists.
Plexiglass v Lexan-
Most suppliers asked why I would want to spend all that money on
lexan. They say suitable grade of Plexiglass for marine use is more
than adequate.
Lexan is easier to scratch than Plexiglass. Good practice such as
allowing lots of clearance around screws for expansion should be
followed whatever is used.
Laminated v Toughened glass-
None had anything good to say about laminated glass, which they say
is prone to unpredictable discoloration. All recommended toughened.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> I am at the stage in building my Topaz that I need to
> put in the window glazing. Bolger specifies laminated
> glass for the front three windows (which take
> windshield wipers) and 1/4" "plastic" for the other
> windows, some of which are fixed and some which fold
> in and up. I understand that lexan is more
> durable/scratch resistant than plexiglass, but does
> that difference justify the large difference in price?
> Has anyone had experience with the suitability of
> these materials? Thanks, Sam>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...> wrote:
since we should care less about HP on a boat motor, however it's
convenient for indicating rough size.
What you want is torque, baby. ;) If you have two motors side by side,
and they are both 50hp, but one has more torque, that one will do much
more work than the other.
I'd bet an air cooled engine designed to run light industrial
machinery would work well, like a small forklift motor etc. Some run
on propane, right? (I haven't researched it, but that sounds nifty)
That's why I like the idea of using air cooled industrial diesels in
boats. They gots dee torque, and many are designed to run at lower
RPMs than the consumer grade gas powered ones.
--T
> In answer to the question, "Are air cooled engines goo for boatHis comment about high RPM air cooled engines is perfectly valid,
> service?," the answer is, in general, no - nit, not, nix!
since we should care less about HP on a boat motor, however it's
convenient for indicating rough size.
What you want is torque, baby. ;) If you have two motors side by side,
and they are both 50hp, but one has more torque, that one will do much
more work than the other.
I'd bet an air cooled engine designed to run light industrial
machinery would work well, like a small forklift motor etc. Some run
on propane, right? (I haven't researched it, but that sounds nifty)
That's why I like the idea of using air cooled industrial diesels in
boats. They gots dee torque, and many are designed to run at lower
RPMs than the consumer grade gas powered ones.
--T
>I used regular plexiglass as a skylight in an RV several years ago, after 3
> I am at the stage in building my Topaz that I need to
> put in the window glazing. Bolger specifies laminated
> glass for the front three windows (which take
> windshield wipers) and 1/4" "plastic" for the other
> windows, some of which are fixed and some which fold
> in and up. I understand that lexan is more
> durable/scratch resistant than plexiglass, but does
> that difference justify the large difference in price?
> Has anyone had experience with the suitability of
> these materials? Thanks, Sam>
years, it cracked and blew out while driving. the Lexan I have as a
windscreen on my motorcycle, has held up for over 8 years. it has
accumulated scratches from washing and road grit, the commercial plastic
polisher cleans it up well.
da
Hi Sam
I used lexan on a boat a couple years ago. I chose lexan because I
heard somewhere that it didn't discolor and cloud up like
plexiglass. I'm not sure about scratch resistance, when I have
marred it it seemed somewhat soft, But I remember somewhere it said
it was easier to use scratch remover to remove the scratches than on
plexi. I have used lexan on my Sneakeasy for the same reasons. If
all this proves true I would say it definitely is worth the extra
cost! fwiw
Steve Bosquette
I used lexan on a boat a couple years ago. I chose lexan because I
heard somewhere that it didn't discolor and cloud up like
plexiglass. I'm not sure about scratch resistance, when I have
marred it it seemed somewhat soft, But I remember somewhere it said
it was easier to use scratch remover to remove the scratches than on
plexi. I have used lexan on my Sneakeasy for the same reasons. If
all this proves true I would say it definitely is worth the extra
cost! fwiw
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
> I am at the stage in building my Topaz that I need to
> put in the window glazing. Bolger specifies laminated
> glass for the front three windows (which take
> windshield wipers) and 1/4" "plastic" for the other
> windows, some of which are fixed and some which fold
> in and up. I understand that lexan is more
> durable/scratch resistant than plexiglass, but does
> that difference justify the large difference in price?
> Has anyone had experience with the suitability of
> these materials? Thanks, Sam>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
>http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
I am at the stage in building my Topaz that I need to
put in the window glazing. Bolger specifies laminated
glass for the front three windows (which take
windshield wipers) and 1/4" "plastic" for the other
windows, some of which are fixed and some which fold
in and up. I understand that lexan is more
durable/scratch resistant than plexiglass, but does
that difference justify the large difference in price?
Has anyone had experience with the suitability of
these materials? Thanks, Sam>
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
put in the window glazing. Bolger specifies laminated
glass for the front three windows (which take
windshield wipers) and 1/4" "plastic" for the other
windows, some of which are fixed and some which fold
in and up. I understand that lexan is more
durable/scratch resistant than plexiglass, but does
that difference justify the large difference in price?
Has anyone had experience with the suitability of
these materials? Thanks, Sam>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
Not to revive a dead link, but while doing some research in the old
archives today I came upon a letter from the late Weston Farmer in a
Small Boat Journal from 11/1991. He wrote:
In answer to the question, "Are air cooled engines goo for boat
service?," the answer is, in general, no - nit, not, nix!
Certain very light hulls have been successfully mated to air-cooled
engines...(he describes one from the 1930's.)... The joker is that
their 3 hp Wisconsin air-cooled engine turned out only 1,800 rpm,
Cost $32 ready to run. ...
But the current crop of air-cooled small power engines now turns up
at 2,000-3,000 rpm, and needs 2:1 or 3:1 belt or gear reductions. Low
revs and a large diameter propeller are needed for satisfactory low
speed (4-6mph) small boats.
(He describes an old engine from Lunedburg or Acadia)
The air-cooled mill will snarl away seemingly winding up the whole
day's business before it gets anywhere.
Belted reductions will cost a lot. I once agree to furnish such a
design for an inboard air-cooled proposition. I got burned. The large
12" V-"B belt" sheaves cost $52.50 each. The 4" V-"B best" sheaves
cost $18.50 each. (Two of each are needed for 10hp) Total cost: more
than the engine. End of experiment.
***
There is a perspective from a knowledgeable small power boat man. All
prices are from 1980 or before, possibly long before.
Peter
archives today I came upon a letter from the late Weston Farmer in a
Small Boat Journal from 11/1991. He wrote:
In answer to the question, "Are air cooled engines goo for boat
service?," the answer is, in general, no - nit, not, nix!
Certain very light hulls have been successfully mated to air-cooled
engines...(he describes one from the 1930's.)... The joker is that
their 3 hp Wisconsin air-cooled engine turned out only 1,800 rpm,
Cost $32 ready to run. ...
But the current crop of air-cooled small power engines now turns up
at 2,000-3,000 rpm, and needs 2:1 or 3:1 belt or gear reductions. Low
revs and a large diameter propeller are needed for satisfactory low
speed (4-6mph) small boats.
(He describes an old engine from Lunedburg or Acadia)
The air-cooled mill will snarl away seemingly winding up the whole
day's business before it gets anywhere.
Belted reductions will cost a lot. I once agree to furnish such a
design for an inboard air-cooled proposition. I got burned. The large
12" V-"B belt" sheaves cost $52.50 each. The 4" V-"B best" sheaves
cost $18.50 each. (Two of each are needed for 10hp) Total cost: more
than the engine. End of experiment.
***
There is a perspective from a knowledgeable small power boat man. All
prices are from 1980 or before, possibly long before.
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., SSK <Gronicle@c...> wrote:
number of years ago. Here's the content. I assigned value of the
information based on a scale of 10:
Letter from B&S stating that their engines are used in Asian river
taxis (1 page, value = 0)
Intro stating that the Capt. put a 9 hp B&S in a John boat (1 page,
value = 0). Did it work? We'll never know.
Basics of aircooled engines, terms (e.g. clutch)and copies of
illustrations and charts from what appear to be some old English
(e.g. "rubber tyred wheels") Engines-101 book. Does give the useful
info that aircooled engines can be gotten cheap. (11 pages, value =
~0)
Correspondence from people who did something with aircooled engines
and boats. This is the only original material in the book. (19 pages,
value = 1)
Professionally done illustration of a B&S engine in a boat (from B&S
flyer) (1 page, value = 5). This is all you need to do a conversion.
Plea from Capt. Owen to send in material for the next update of the
booklet. (1 page, value = 10 [to Capt. Owen!])
If anyone wants an image of the B&S illustration emailed, let me
know. If you want to buy my copy of the booklet, please send $25 cash.
Steve
> > Bubba, For us yankees, what is the deal? What did you learn forHate to admit it but I bought a copy of Capt. Owen's booklet a goodly
> > 10.95. Is it doable. A description of the content of the plans
> > may be helpful.
number of years ago. Here's the content. I assigned value of the
information based on a scale of 10:
Letter from B&S stating that their engines are used in Asian river
taxis (1 page, value = 0)
Intro stating that the Capt. put a 9 hp B&S in a John boat (1 page,
value = 0). Did it work? We'll never know.
Basics of aircooled engines, terms (e.g. clutch)and copies of
illustrations and charts from what appear to be some old English
(e.g. "rubber tyred wheels") Engines-101 book. Does give the useful
info that aircooled engines can be gotten cheap. (11 pages, value =
~0)
Correspondence from people who did something with aircooled engines
and boats. This is the only original material in the book. (19 pages,
value = 1)
Professionally done illustration of a B&S engine in a boat (from B&S
flyer) (1 page, value = 5). This is all you need to do a conversion.
Plea from Capt. Owen to send in material for the next update of the
booklet. (1 page, value = 10 [to Capt. Owen!])
If anyone wants an image of the B&S illustration emailed, let me
know. If you want to buy my copy of the booklet, please send $25 cash.
Steve
> BubbaDave,
>
> For us yankees, what is the deal? What did you learn for 10.95.
> Is it doable. A description of the content of the plans may be
> helpful.
>
> David Jost
>
I don't remember much detail after six years (trying to remember where I
put the cresent wrenches last week....). Basically, for the ten bucks
I got a little zerox phamplet of some hand drawn pictures of a lawn
mower engine sitting on the lower shaft of an outboard. There was some
text that advised the reader to haunt the local junk yard for good
busted up outboards, and to apply smarts and comon sense in lashing this
sort of thing together. There was no tech drawings, specs, sources of
materials or diddly that I re-call in the phamplet. Just some pure
brogan proof quatch.
Guess I am trying to say the deal is just a friggin rip off. I learned
dink from the experience.
Glad to know that a few of you guys made it as far South as Ft. Gordon.
Regards, Bubba K.
From the Coastal Empire, etc.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bubba
For us yankees, what is the deal? What did you learn for 10.95.
Is it doable. A description of the content of the plans may be
helpful.
David Jost
For us yankees, what is the deal? What did you learn for 10.95.
Is it doable. A description of the content of the plans may be
helpful.
David Jost
> This ad has been around for year. About six years ago I finallysent
> for the info (wouldn't dignify it by calling it a manual), and aboutlast,
> barfed on my shoes when I saw how D... P... P... it was, first,
> and middle.people
>
> I think there is a reason the Capt uses a PO box. Could be a few
> in the low country who want to give him a face up cussin.
>
> Regards, Bubba K.
> From the Coastal Empire of Georgia.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Tuesday, November 27, 2001, at 10:17 PM, Mark Albanese wrote:
cussin. Memorable, not fun but memorable.
hal
> Bubba, I once spent about 3 months in the signal school atI too did time at Fort Gordon. I managed to "earn" a Face up
> Fort Gordon, but I'd still never heard of a, Face up
> cussin." Sounds Fearsome.
cussin. Memorable, not fun but memorable.
hal
Bubba, I once spent about 3 months in the signal school at
Fort Gordon, but I'd still never heard of a, Face up
cussin." Sounds Fearsome.
You've helped a lot of people save their money, especially me.
Mark
Gronicle wrote:
Fort Gordon, but I'd still never heard of a, Face up
cussin." Sounds Fearsome.
You've helped a lot of people save their money, especially me.
Mark
Gronicle wrote:
>
> I think there is a reason the Capt uses a PO box. Could
> be a few people
> in the low country who want to give him a face up cussin.
>
> Regards, Bubba K.
> >From the Coastal Empire of Georgia.
>
how about Da.. Pi.. Po.. ?
Is that what the author meant?
James Fuller
Is that what the author meant?
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From:kayaker37@...
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:54 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Lawn Mower Power
D... P... P... ?
Can I buy a vowel? Or perhaps if you give the second letter. I asked
the wife and she had no clue either.
> for the info (wouldn't dignify it by calling it a manual), and about
> barfed on my shoes when I saw how D... P... P... it was, first,
last,
> and middle.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Frank W Gundaker wrote:
Bruce Fountain
> Just a short Question. What is D... P... P...?D*mn P*ss P**r?
Bruce Fountain
Just a short Question. What is D... P... P...?
Yes I'm blond.
Frank
At 09:43 PM 11/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
Yes I'm blond.
Frank
At 09:43 PM 11/27/01 -0500, you wrote:
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>Trfed on my shoes when I saw how D... P... P... it was, first, last,
>and middle.
>Regards, Bubba K.
>From the Coastal Empire of Georgia.
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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D... P... P... ?
Can I buy a vowel? Or perhaps if you give the second letter. I asked
the wife and she had no clue either.
Can I buy a vowel? Or perhaps if you give the second letter. I asked
the wife and she had no clue either.
> for the info (wouldn't dignify it by calling it a manual), and aboutlast,
> barfed on my shoes when I saw how D... P... P... it was, first,
> and middle.
> And then there'sThis ad has been around for years. About six years ago I finally sent
>
> an ad in "Boatbuilder" for a marine conversion manual for
> Briggs and
> Stratton (type) engines.
> Capt. Woodie Owen
> PO Box 32172-B
> Charleston,SC 29417
> ($10.95)
>
> This has had mixed reviews previously on this list. At the
> price, maybe its got one useful idea.
>
>
for the info (wouldn't dignify it by calling it a manual), and about
barfed on my shoes when I saw how D... P... P... it was, first, last,
and middle.
I think there is a reason the Capt uses a PO box. Could be a few people
in the low country who want to give him a face up cussin.
Regards, Bubba K.
From the Coastal Empire of Georgia.
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