Re: Concrete keels?
"John Bell" <jmbell@m...> wrote:
You are exactly right.
The rest of Glenn Ashmore's post:
--------------------
BTW, the 316 SS bolts were in perfect shape even after 15 years of
blue water cruising. The 5200 kept any possibility of sea water
reaching the them. The keel had to come off so the boat could be
shipped.
----------------------------------
Rhett, the soon to be "Other AF4 Owner in Georgia"
>Chiming in late here...JB,
>I suspect this story leaves something out: Could it have been the
>keelbolts had been removed for some type of repair? But because the
>keel had been bedded in 5200, it did not fall off right away without
>some persuasion.
You are exactly right.
The rest of Glenn Ashmore's post:
--------------------
BTW, the 316 SS bolts were in perfect shape even after 15 years of
blue water cruising. The 5200 kept any possibility of sea water
reaching the them. The keel had to come off so the boat could be
shipped.
----------------------------------
Rhett, the soon to be "Other AF4 Owner in Georgia"
Chiming in late here...
I suspect this story leaves something out: Could it have been the keelbolts
had been removed for some type of repair? But because the keel had been
bedded in 5200, it did not fall off right away without some persuasion.
I can't imagine a manufacturer purposely leaving out keelboats. Too much
liability there. 5200 is good stuff, but it ain't that good.
JB
I suspect this story leaves something out: Could it have been the keelbolts
had been removed for some type of repair? But because the keel had been
bedded in 5200, it did not fall off right away without some persuasion.
I can't imagine a manufacturer purposely leaving out keelboats. Too much
liability there. 5200 is good stuff, but it ain't that good.
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: <mat_man@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete keels?
| About the only thing I could find at rec.boat.building was
| from Glenn Ashmore (builder of 45' stip/glass cutter):
|
| "I've seen a fin held on only by 5200 my self. To get it off, the
| boat was raised with a travellift and a fork lift truck was brought
| is to support the keel as the 5200 was cut off. Even then the fork
| lift had to work the keel a little to get it off. Overall it was a
| smooth operation and left me with a very comfortable feeling. There
| was no possibility that keel would come off by itself even if all the
| bolts failed.
|
| The keel had to come off so the boat could be shipped."
|
|
| Mat
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
In micro's case the slug is inserted into a plywood
housing, so you couldn't get reasonable stability from
cement in the shoe, but you possibly could with a full
length cement keel.
---amoore@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
<BR>
I must agree with Bill here. There is a reason
the old timers use<BR>
lead most of the time and most of that reason is
density. For the<BR>
price and availability you can't get much
denser. Switching a micro<BR>
keel to cement you would have to increase you depth
quite a bit to get<BR>
the same righting arm. There is another reason
to use lead and it<BR>
depends on the ballast location, not being familar
with Micro's I<BR>
don't know if this applies. Lead is soft and if
external (bolted on<BR>
the bottom of the hull as apposed to poored in the
hull) ballast is<BR>
used it can make for a very good shock aborber against
an unfortunate<BR>
bump on something hard like a rock. Iron can
send a terible vibration<BR>
through the hull affecting the keel bolts, cement
could crumble and or<BR>
vibrate the keel bolts(or what ever) which would be
very difficult to<BR>
repare. Any dents in lead are easy to
repare.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Andy<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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housing, so you couldn't get reasonable stability from
cement in the shoe, but you possibly could with a full
length cement keel.
---amoore@...wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>
<tt>
<BR>
I must agree with Bill here. There is a reason
the old timers use<BR>
lead most of the time and most of that reason is
density. For the<BR>
price and availability you can't get much
denser. Switching a micro<BR>
keel to cement you would have to increase you depth
quite a bit to get<BR>
the same righting arm. There is another reason
to use lead and it<BR>
depends on the ballast location, not being familar
with Micro's I<BR>
don't know if this applies. Lead is soft and if
external (bolted on<BR>
the bottom of the hull as apposed to poored in the
hull) ballast is<BR>
used it can make for a very good shock aborber against
an unfortunate<BR>
bump on something hard like a rock. Iron can
send a terible vibration<BR>
through the hull affecting the keel bolts, cement
could crumble and or<BR>
vibrate the keel bolts(or what ever) which would be
very difficult to<BR>
repare. Any dents in lead are easy to
repare.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Andy<BR>
<BR>
</tt>
<br>
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<tt>
Bolger rules!!!<BR>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging
dead horses<BR>
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on
topic, and punctuate<BR>
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts,
snip all you like<BR>
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349<BR>
- Unsubscribe:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com</tt>
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_______________________________________________________
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I must agree with Bill here. There is a reason the old timers use
lead most of the time and most of that reason is density. For the
price and availability you can't get much denser. Switching a micro
keel to cement you would have to increase you depth quite a bit to get
the same righting arm. There is another reason to use lead and it
depends on the ballast location, not being familar with Micro's I
don't know if this applies. Lead is soft and if external (bolted on
the bottom of the hull as apposed to poored in the hull) ballast is
used it can make for a very good shock aborber against an unfortunate
bump on something hard like a rock. Iron can send a terible vibration
through the hull affecting the keel bolts, cement could crumble and or
vibrate the keel bolts(or what ever) which would be very difficult to
repare. Any dents in lead are easy to repare.
Andy
lead most of the time and most of that reason is density. For the
price and availability you can't get much denser. Switching a micro
keel to cement you would have to increase you depth quite a bit to get
the same righting arm. There is another reason to use lead and it
depends on the ballast location, not being familar with Micro's I
don't know if this applies. Lead is soft and if external (bolted on
the bottom of the hull as apposed to poored in the hull) ballast is
used it can make for a very good shock aborber against an unfortunate
bump on something hard like a rock. Iron can send a terible vibration
through the hull affecting the keel bolts, cement could crumble and or
vibrate the keel bolts(or what ever) which would be very difficult to
repare. Any dents in lead are easy to repare.
Andy
We can be specific.
From William Garden's Yacht Designs, we get
Lead - 710 lb/cu ft
Iron - 440 lb/cu ft
Concrete - 144 lb/cu ft
By putting boiler punchings, etc. in the concrete, we can increase
the weight. Let us guess (I really don't know what is realistic) we
can get
Iron/Concrete mix - 250 lb cu ft.
Now, the first 64 lb in each cu ft compensates for the displaced
water, so the ballast effect is that much less than the above numbers.
Lead - 646 lb/cu ft
Iron - 346 lb/cu ft
Mix - 186 lb/cu ft
Concrete - 80 lb/cu ft
The Micro ballast casting is supposed to be 420 lbs (from Common
Sense Designs site) or .59 cu ft. and will have 382 lb of ballast
effect. The equivalent ballast volumes are then:
Lead - .59 cu ft
Iron - 1.10 cu ft
Mix - 2.05 cu ft
Concrete - 4.78 cu ft.
You can see that the keel would need complete redesign to use a
concrete ballast casting.
PHV
From William Garden's Yacht Designs, we get
Lead - 710 lb/cu ft
Iron - 440 lb/cu ft
Concrete - 144 lb/cu ft
By putting boiler punchings, etc. in the concrete, we can increase
the weight. Let us guess (I really don't know what is realistic) we
can get
Iron/Concrete mix - 250 lb cu ft.
Now, the first 64 lb in each cu ft compensates for the displaced
water, so the ballast effect is that much less than the above numbers.
Lead - 646 lb/cu ft
Iron - 346 lb/cu ft
Mix - 186 lb/cu ft
Concrete - 80 lb/cu ft
The Micro ballast casting is supposed to be 420 lbs (from Common
Sense Designs site) or .59 cu ft. and will have 382 lb of ballast
effect. The equivalent ballast volumes are then:
Lead - .59 cu ft
Iron - 1.10 cu ft
Mix - 2.05 cu ft
Concrete - 4.78 cu ft.
You can see that the keel would need complete redesign to use a
concrete ballast casting.
PHV
Mat,
If you're wondering specifically about the MICRO keel in
concrete,figure out first the weight of lead/cubic foot and then
concrete.You will then very quickly see that,although there may well
be wonderful products out there that will bond concrete to
wood/glass/steel/foam etc...,the amount of concrete needed to equal
the weight of the lead casting is rather impressive.Now imagine how
you would get all that concrete to replicate the keel dimensions
specified on the plans.
We won't even talk about all the fuss of adding boiler punchings
into the mix or some type of steel armature leading to all sorts of
corrosion concerns...........
In short,lead is hard to beat as are the time proven methods of
securely attaching it to a hull.
But then again,I'm a happy MICRO owner whoes field of vision may be
slightly twisted by lust.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan.
If you're wondering specifically about the MICRO keel in
concrete,figure out first the weight of lead/cubic foot and then
concrete.You will then very quickly see that,although there may well
be wonderful products out there that will bond concrete to
wood/glass/steel/foam etc...,the amount of concrete needed to equal
the weight of the lead casting is rather impressive.Now imagine how
you would get all that concrete to replicate the keel dimensions
specified on the plans.
We won't even talk about all the fuss of adding boiler punchings
into the mix or some type of steel armature leading to all sorts of
corrosion concerns...........
In short,lead is hard to beat as are the time proven methods of
securely attaching it to a hull.
But then again,I'm a happy MICRO owner whoes field of vision may be
slightly twisted by lust.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan.
--- In bolger@y..., mat_man@u... wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building something
> like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
>
> Thanks
> Mat
Coyote was eventually recovered and sailed around the world in the final BOC
Challenge (before it became Around Alone). I wonder what the differences
were between the original attachment and the one that successfully
circumnavigated?
JB
Challenge (before it became Around Alone). I wonder what the differences
were between the original attachment and the one that successfully
circumnavigated?
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: <pvanderw@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete keels?
|
| Once upon a time there was a single-handed racer named (if I remember
| correctly) Coyote. She set off across the Atlantic and lost her keel
| and her skipper's life somewhere at sea. She had grounded in
| Chesapeake Bay, and there was some speculation that the keel had been
| damaged at that time.
|
| I bring this up because one of the article I read seemed to imply
| that one of the critical keel connections (ballast bulb to keel, or
| keel to hull) was an epoxy joint without bolts. The designer (Roger
| Martin?) or an engineer who worked on the design was quoted as saying
| the epoxy should be good for xxxlbs per square inch and with yyy
| square inches of area, it should be ok.
|
| I can just about understand that it would be appropriate to epoxy a
| composite material fin to a composite material hull, but I would have
| some trouble with an epoxy joint between a metal ballast bulb and the
| composite fin.
|
| Airbus uses bolts to attach their composite tail structure to the
| rest of the airliner, according to current reports.
|
| Peter
|
| --- In bolger@y..., mat_man@u... wrote:
| > Hi John
| >
| > Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
| > (lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
| > rec.boat.building
| >
| > Thanks
| >
| > Mat
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
In a message dated 11/30/01 3:33:46 PM Central Standard Time,
mat_man@...writes:
be a highly variable factor. Looking over the plans for Micro in BWAOM, I
think the keel would have to be completely re-engineered to get the same
weight and CG using concrete + iron. It has a big chunk of lead in a rather
small keel. I don't have the saavy to calculate the numbers though, so this
free advice is worth just what it cost you!
I thought as big a fan of 5200 as anyone, but I see some people are REAL
enthusiastic! Whether of lead or concrete, I don't see the use of bolts to
secure the keel as creating any great difficulties, and I don't think I'd
leave home without the same. At worst it may be adding "suspenders" to a
"belt", perhaps unnecessary and unfashionable, but is there any "Micromanic"
who is concerned about being fashionable?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
mat_man@...writes:
> I think I have seen references to holdingConcrete is a lot lighter than lead, and the density of concrete + iron could
> (lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
> rec.boat.building
>
>
be a highly variable factor. Looking over the plans for Micro in BWAOM, I
think the keel would have to be completely re-engineered to get the same
weight and CG using concrete + iron. It has a big chunk of lead in a rather
small keel. I don't have the saavy to calculate the numbers though, so this
free advice is worth just what it cost you!
I thought as big a fan of 5200 as anyone, but I see some people are REAL
enthusiastic! Whether of lead or concrete, I don't see the use of bolts to
secure the keel as creating any great difficulties, and I don't think I'd
leave home without the same. At worst it may be adding "suspenders" to a
"belt", perhaps unnecessary and unfashionable, but is there any "Micromanic"
who is concerned about being fashionable?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
About the only thing I could find at rec.boat.building was
from Glenn Ashmore (builder of 45' stip/glass cutter):
"I've seen a fin held on only by 5200 my self. To get it off, the
boat was raised with a travellift and a fork lift truck was brought
is to support the keel as the 5200 was cut off. Even then the fork
lift had to work the keel a little to get it off. Overall it was a
smooth operation and left me with a very comfortable feeling. There
was no possibility that keel would come off by itself even if all the
bolts failed.
The keel had to come off so the boat could be shipped."
Mat
from Glenn Ashmore (builder of 45' stip/glass cutter):
"I've seen a fin held on only by 5200 my self. To get it off, the
boat was raised with a travellift and a fork lift truck was brought
is to support the keel as the 5200 was cut off. Even then the fork
lift had to work the keel a little to get it off. Overall it was a
smooth operation and left me with a very comfortable feeling. There
was no possibility that keel would come off by itself even if all the
bolts failed.
The keel had to come off so the boat could be shipped."
Mat
I raised this at one point, as I recall, and knowing
only what appeared in the pages of Outside, which is
not a direct source, the bulb was wrapped to the
bottom of the keel, I said "duct taped on with
graphite
fibre" which is an image i rather like. I don't know
if this was a good or bad thing, but I took exception
to Outside's characterisation of it as not having any
ultimate metal to metal fastening, since in essence
you can't have it, unless the boat is metal. The
gougeons have said somewhere that when they attach
ballast with bolts, with long rods that come up
throught the keel timbers, that they harware bond it.
They screw down nuts on top of the rods, but have said
they don't doubt the epoxy alone would hold. In
general they like to see a lot of smaller bonded
fasteners rather than a few big ones.
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
only what appeared in the pages of Outside, which is
not a direct source, the bulb was wrapped to the
bottom of the keel, I said "duct taped on with
graphite
fibre" which is an image i rather like. I don't know
if this was a good or bad thing, but I took exception
to Outside's characterisation of it as not having any
ultimate metal to metal fastening, since in essence
you can't have it, unless the boat is metal. The
gougeons have said somewhere that when they attach
ballast with bolts, with long rods that come up
throught the keel timbers, that they harware bond it.
They screw down nuts on top of the rods, but have said
they don't doubt the epoxy alone would hold. In
general they like to see a lot of smaller bonded
fasteners rather than a few big ones.
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
I raised this at one point, as I recall, and knowing
only what appeared in the pages of Outside, which is
not a direct source, the bulb was wrapped to the
bottom of the keel, I said "duct taped on with
graphite
fibre" which is an image i rather like. I don't know
if this was a good or bad thing, but I took exception
to Outside's characterisation of it as not having any
ultimate metal to metal fastening, since in essence
you can't have it, unless the boat is metal. The
gougeons have said somewhere that when they attach
ballast with bolts, with long rods that come up
throught the keel timbers, that they harware bond it.
They screw down nuts on top of the rods, but have said
they don't doubt the epoxy alone would hold. In
general they like to see a lot of smaller bonded
fasteners rather than a few big ones.
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
only what appeared in the pages of Outside, which is
not a direct source, the bulb was wrapped to the
bottom of the keel, I said "duct taped on with
graphite
fibre" which is an image i rather like. I don't know
if this was a good or bad thing, but I took exception
to Outside's characterisation of it as not having any
ultimate metal to metal fastening, since in essence
you can't have it, unless the boat is metal. The
gougeons have said somewhere that when they attach
ballast with bolts, with long rods that come up
throught the keel timbers, that they harware bond it.
They screw down nuts on top of the rods, but have said
they don't doubt the epoxy alone would hold. In
general they like to see a lot of smaller bonded
fasteners rather than a few big ones.
_______________________________________________________
Build your own website in minutes and for free athttp://ca.geocities.com
Once upon a time there was a single-handed racer named (if I remember
correctly) Coyote. She set off across the Atlantic and lost her keel
and her skipper's life somewhere at sea. She had grounded in
Chesapeake Bay, and there was some speculation that the keel had been
damaged at that time.
I bring this up because one of the article I read seemed to imply
that one of the critical keel connections (ballast bulb to keel, or
keel to hull) was an epoxy joint without bolts. The designer (Roger
Martin?) or an engineer who worked on the design was quoted as saying
the epoxy should be good for xxxlbs per square inch and with yyy
square inches of area, it should be ok.
I can just about understand that it would be appropriate to epoxy a
composite material fin to a composite material hull, but I would have
some trouble with an epoxy joint between a metal ballast bulb and the
composite fin.
Airbus uses bolts to attach their composite tail structure to the
rest of the airliner, according to current reports.
Peter
correctly) Coyote. She set off across the Atlantic and lost her keel
and her skipper's life somewhere at sea. She had grounded in
Chesapeake Bay, and there was some speculation that the keel had been
damaged at that time.
I bring this up because one of the article I read seemed to imply
that one of the critical keel connections (ballast bulb to keel, or
keel to hull) was an epoxy joint without bolts. The designer (Roger
Martin?) or an engineer who worked on the design was quoted as saying
the epoxy should be good for xxxlbs per square inch and with yyy
square inches of area, it should be ok.
I can just about understand that it would be appropriate to epoxy a
composite material fin to a composite material hull, but I would have
some trouble with an epoxy joint between a metal ballast bulb and the
composite fin.
Airbus uses bolts to attach their composite tail structure to the
rest of the airliner, according to current reports.
Peter
--- In bolger@y..., mat_man@u... wrote:
> Hi John
>
> Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
> (lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
> rec.boat.building
>
> Thanks
>
> Mat
I remember those days.
Cascade boats use pro 3400 on there keels and lots of bolts.
They sold me some when I re did the 3300 # keel on a ranger 26.
You better run straps around the whole boat and the keel if you are
going to try to do it with 5200 only.
Now 5200 is some of the best stuff ever but come on now.
I know it would work but not for long.
Now if that keel had no weight like wood only ?
You looking for big trouble boy.
WILLO
WillO
will@...
503-805-8421
-----Original Message-----
From:vcgraphics@...[mailto:vcgraphics@...]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:04 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete keels?
I believe GRP boats are molded leaving an interior space to put
the keel ballast which is then bedded in 5200 or similar goop.
Am I the only one who thinks a Micro keel would be a hoot to
build? Of course in the dark ages when I was a lad we poured
lead soldiers, made gunpowder with our Gilbert chemistry sets
and made "dimes" out of copper pennies with the mercury from
broken thermometers.
Vance
Cascade boats use pro 3400 on there keels and lots of bolts.
They sold me some when I re did the 3300 # keel on a ranger 26.
You better run straps around the whole boat and the keel if you are
going to try to do it with 5200 only.
Now 5200 is some of the best stuff ever but come on now.
I know it would work but not for long.
Now if that keel had no weight like wood only ?
You looking for big trouble boy.
WILLO
WillO
will@...
503-805-8421
-----Original Message-----
From:vcgraphics@...[mailto:vcgraphics@...]
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:04 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Concrete keels?
I believe GRP boats are molded leaving an interior space to put
the keel ballast which is then bedded in 5200 or similar goop.
Am I the only one who thinks a Micro keel would be a hoot to
build? Of course in the dark ages when I was a lad we poured
lead soldiers, made gunpowder with our Gilbert chemistry sets
and made "dimes" out of copper pennies with the mercury from
broken thermometers.
Vance
--- In bolger@y..., mat_man@u... wrote:
> Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
> (lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
> rec.boat.building
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Bolger rules!!!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I believe GRP boats are molded leaving an interior space to put
the keel ballast which is then bedded in 5200 or similar goop.
Am I the only one who thinks a Micro keel would be a hoot to
build? Of course in the dark ages when I was a lad we poured
lead soldiers, made gunpowder with our Gilbert chemistry sets
and made "dimes" out of copper pennies with the mercury from
broken thermometers.
Vance
the keel ballast which is then bedded in 5200 or similar goop.
Am I the only one who thinks a Micro keel would be a hoot to
build? Of course in the dark ages when I was a lad we poured
lead soldiers, made gunpowder with our Gilbert chemistry sets
and made "dimes" out of copper pennies with the mercury from
broken thermometers.
Vance
--- In bolger@y..., mat_man@u... wrote:
> Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
> (lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
> rec.boat.building
Hi John
Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
(lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
rec.boat.building
Thanks
Mat
Thanks for your info. I think I have seen references to holding
(lead or iron) keels on glass hulls only using 5200 in
rec.boat.building
Thanks
Mat
You mean the only thing holding the keel on would be 5200?
Or just using 5200 to seal the wood/keel interface?
George Beuhler's (http://www.georgebuehler.com/)book on boatbuiding
describes concrete+scrap metal keel construction.
mat_man@...on 11/30/2001 03:55:02 PM
Please respond tobolger@yahoogroups.com
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [bolger] Concrete keels?
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building something
like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
Thanks
Mat
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Or just using 5200 to seal the wood/keel interface?
George Beuhler's (http://www.georgebuehler.com/)book on boatbuiding
describes concrete+scrap metal keel construction.
mat_man@...on 11/30/2001 03:55:02 PM
Please respond tobolger@yahoogroups.com
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [bolger] Concrete keels?
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building something
like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
Thanks
Mat
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building something
like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
Thanks
Mat
I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building something
like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
Thanks
Mat