Re: 5200-keel connection
> I can't see the motivation behind eliminating keel bolts.As Joel White said in a different context, keel bolts are no place to
skimp on costs.
PHV
I can't see the motivation behind eliminating keel bolts.
Use keel bolts to hold the keel and spread the stresses. Use 5200 to keep
everything dry and for a little extra insurance.
You're adding ballast, what's a few more bolts?
Tom Kremer <tkremer@...> on 12/01/2001 01:12:21 PM
Please respond tobolger@yahoogroups.com
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [bolger] Re: 5200-keel connection
I recently ran onto a situation in a kitchen where someone had used
construction adhesive to glue a large thin granite slab to a wall above
a granite countertop. Of course given the surface area being glued and
the weight of the stone the adhesive was more than strong enough to
support it.... when it failed (in dramatic fashion) what happened was
that the outer paper layer simply separated off the drywall and crashed
down with the granite and the still-intact glue layer.
So yes, the 5200 might hold, but will the outer skin on the bottom of
the boat be strong enough to support everything or will it fail by
stripping off a layer of fiberglass or perhaps delaminating the
plywood? Keel bolts serve to spread the stress into structural members.
Tom K
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Use keel bolts to hold the keel and spread the stresses. Use 5200 to keep
everything dry and for a little extra insurance.
You're adding ballast, what's a few more bolts?
Tom Kremer <tkremer@...> on 12/01/2001 01:12:21 PM
Please respond tobolger@yahoogroups.com
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [bolger] Re: 5200-keel connection
> I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building somethingMat:
> like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
>
> Thanks
> Mat
I recently ran onto a situation in a kitchen where someone had used
construction adhesive to glue a large thin granite slab to a wall above
a granite countertop. Of course given the surface area being glued and
the weight of the stone the adhesive was more than strong enough to
support it.... when it failed (in dramatic fashion) what happened was
that the outer paper layer simply separated off the drywall and crashed
down with the granite and the still-intact glue layer.
So yes, the 5200 might hold, but will the outer skin on the bottom of
the boat be strong enough to support everything or will it fail by
stripping off a layer of fiberglass or perhaps delaminating the
plywood? Keel bolts serve to spread the stress into structural members.
Tom K
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
tom,
The Micro keel is very strong as designed.
It is attached to a 1.5"X1.5" batten that is through bolted to
the hull. Plywood faces are also on either side of it and nailed and
glued to both the batten and the keel. In order for it to fail, the
bottom of the boat would need to come off.
I had relatively little trouble installing my keel on the
micro. It was just a little tough working alone. The plans suggest
building a box, then raising the casting into the box, or lowering
the boat onto the casting. Either way is difficult. This is where
keel bolts would have come in handy. I would have been able to line
the bolts up with the holes in the keel batten and then once aligned,
gradually snug up the nuts on top until the keel was held securely,
then fastening the plywood sheathing could be done in an orderly and
meticulous manner, plently of glue, plenty of nails, plenty of time.
Just my two cent worth here, having been through it once.
I have also glassed with 6oz fiberglass set in epoxy the entire
casting assembly, in essence I have created a keel that has a ballast
casting set into it. It is sealed to prevent water from getting in
and attacking the keel batten. I have also sealed up all wood
members with two coats of epoxy.
Today, I applied fairing compound to the whole keel assembly and
will finish the glass tape along the bottom (protects the edge of the
ply and provides additional grounding protection) on the next warm
day.
David Jost
"67 degrees F. in Boston today! A great day for building boats!on
December 1st."
The Micro keel is very strong as designed.
It is attached to a 1.5"X1.5" batten that is through bolted to
the hull. Plywood faces are also on either side of it and nailed and
glued to both the batten and the keel. In order for it to fail, the
bottom of the boat would need to come off.
I had relatively little trouble installing my keel on the
micro. It was just a little tough working alone. The plans suggest
building a box, then raising the casting into the box, or lowering
the boat onto the casting. Either way is difficult. This is where
keel bolts would have come in handy. I would have been able to line
the bolts up with the holes in the keel batten and then once aligned,
gradually snug up the nuts on top until the keel was held securely,
then fastening the plywood sheathing could be done in an orderly and
meticulous manner, plently of glue, plenty of nails, plenty of time.
Just my two cent worth here, having been through it once.
I have also glassed with 6oz fiberglass set in epoxy the entire
casting assembly, in essence I have created a keel that has a ballast
casting set into it. It is sealed to prevent water from getting in
and attacking the keel batten. I have also sealed up all wood
members with two coats of epoxy.
Today, I applied fairing compound to the whole keel assembly and
will finish the glass tape along the bottom (protects the edge of the
ply and provides additional grounding protection) on the next warm
day.
David Jost
"67 degrees F. in Boston today! A great day for building boats!on
December 1st."
> the boat be strong enough to support everything or will it fail bymembers.
> stripping off a layer of fiberglass or perhaps delaminating the
> plywood? Keel bolts serve to spread the stress into structural
>
> Tom K
> I was wondering if anyone had any luck with building somethingMat:
> like a Micro keel with ferrocement and attaching it with 5200?
>
> Thanks
> Mat
I recently ran onto a situation in a kitchen where someone had used
construction adhesive to glue a large thin granite slab to a wall above
a granite countertop. Of course given the surface area being glued and
the weight of the stone the adhesive was more than strong enough to
support it.... when it failed (in dramatic fashion) what happened was
that the outer paper layer simply separated off the drywall and crashed
down with the granite and the still-intact glue layer.
So yes, the 5200 might hold, but will the outer skin on the bottom of
the boat be strong enough to support everything or will it fail by
stripping off a layer of fiberglass or perhaps delaminating the
plywood? Keel bolts serve to spread the stress into structural members.
Tom K