Re: was "galvanized" now Friction Tape
When I was a young teen at Cass Tech in Detroit my electrical wiring
course taught us to wrap soldered splices with first rubber tape then
friction tape. However I had earlier learned to wrap baseballs that
were coming apart, wrap bicycle tire holes with the tape to keep the
inner tube in. For a kid friction tape was the equivalent of the
present day "duct tape".
Bob Chamberland
course taught us to wrap soldered splices with first rubber tape then
friction tape. However I had earlier learned to wrap baseballs that
were coming apart, wrap bicycle tire holes with the tape to keep the
inner tube in. For a kid friction tape was the equivalent of the
present day "duct tape".
Bob Chamberland
--- In bolger@y..., "pvanderwaart" <pvanderwaart@y...> wrote:
> > Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for
> this info.
>
> I have this book and used the advice in to when putting a serving on
> my shrouds to hold the spreader tips in the right place. The
> instructions call for "friction tape." Toss has a strong preference
> for either white or black, I forget which.
>
> Anyway, in my store there was only black, and the primary suggested
> use was taping hockey sticks.
>
> Peter
Mc Feely's at
http://www.mcfeelys.com/
has about any kind of deck or sheet rock screw, plus a description of
what they are and something about the materials they are made out of.
HJ
"Geren W. Mortensen, Jr." wrote:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/
has about any kind of deck or sheet rock screw, plus a description of
what they are and something about the materials they are made out of.
HJ
"Geren W. Mortensen, Jr." wrote:
>
> Around here, I believe they're referred to as deck screws.
>
> At 1/2/02 12:22 PM, you wrote:
> >I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called
> >that, or something else like deck screws?
>
> Geren W. Mortensen, Jr.
> Columbia, Maryland, USA
>
> "The future just isn't what it used to be."
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Beuhler makes a strong case of galvanized, mostly of the boat/no boat variety.
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
>Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for thisC.E.P.
>info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and
>maintained properly is good for a 100 years. He says it will last much
>longer than Stainless because of fewer problems with fatigue. Bet you
>never heard that one from your marine hardware store.
>
>Well written, informative book still in print.
>
>HJ
>
>>
>> On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
>> some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
>> detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
>> new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
>>
>> I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
>> + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
>> this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
>> would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
>> with tar and canvas! ;)
>>
>> --T
>>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
>MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
134 West 26th St. 12th Floor
New York, New York 10001
http://www.crumblingempire.com
(212) 247-0296
Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source for this
info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and
maintained properly is good for a 100 years. He says it will last much
longer than Stainless because of fewer problems with fatigue. Bet you
never heard that one from your marine hardware store.
Well written, informative book still in print.
HJ
info. He maintains that galvanized rigging that is parceled served and
maintained properly is good for a 100 years. He says it will last much
longer than Stainless because of fewer problems with fatigue. Bet you
never heard that one from your marine hardware store.
Well written, informative book still in print.
HJ
>
> On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
> some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
> detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
> new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
>
> I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
> + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
> this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
> would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
> with tar and canvas! ;)
>
> --T
>
> Brian Toss's "The Complete Rigger's Apprentice" is the source forthis info.
I have this book and used the advice in to when putting a serving on
my shrouds to hold the spreader tips in the right place. The
instructions call for "friction tape." Toss has a strong preference
for either white or black, I forget which.
Anyway, in my store there was only black, and the primary suggested
use was taping hockey sticks.
Peter
There is a recent book by Roger Duncan, called "Dorothy Elizabeth"
describing the construction of his new 26 ft schooner. He swears by
galvanized rigging and describes in detail the serving etc. in detail.
I bought my copy from Amazon.com.
Steve Bosquette
describing the construction of his new 26 ft schooner. He swears by
galvanized rigging and describes in detail the serving etc. in detail.
I bought my copy from Amazon.com.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "timothyennuinet" <timothy@e...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "Luke S" <biggie@d...> wrote:
> > Heya Will.I agree with galvanized rigging, its more ductile than
> > stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
> > Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just
below the
> > surface and epoxy puttied them.
> > The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
> > Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of
> bronze
> > ringshank =$16 to $17.00.
>
> If you don't mind 'screw and glue' rather than 'nail and glue',
> galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200
does
> the trick. I've used a dremel tool for the pilot holes and that can
> make it go pretty quickly. :)
>
> On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
> some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
> detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
> new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
>
> I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy
stuff)
> + 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
> this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials
advice
> would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
> with tar and canvas! ;)
>
> --T
Around here, I believe they're referred to as deck screws.
At 1/2/02 12:22 PM, you wrote:
Columbia, Maryland, USA
"The future just isn't what it used to be."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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At 1/2/02 12:22 PM, you wrote:
>I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they calledGeren W. Mortensen, Jr.
>that, or something else like deck screws?
Columbia, Maryland, USA
"The future just isn't what it used to be."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My Personal Web Sitehttp://gerenm.tripod.com
The On30Guy On30 Web Sitehttp://on30guy.tripod.com
Geren's Photography Sitehttp://gerenphoto.tripod.com
Geren's Boating Sitehttp://gerenboat.tripod.com
UgotaWanit: A New Music Experiencehttp://www.ugotawanit.com
Four County Society of Model Engineershttp://www.fcsme.org
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I haven't seen Galvi drywall screws, are they called
that, or something else like deck screws?
______________________________________________________
Send your holiday cheer withhttp://greetings.yahoo.ca
that, or something else like deck screws?
______________________________________________________
Send your holiday cheer withhttp://greetings.yahoo.ca
--- In bolger@y..., "Luke S" <biggie@d...> wrote:
galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200 does
the trick. I've used a dremel tool for the pilot holes and that can
make it go pretty quickly. :)
On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
+ 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
with tar and canvas! ;)
--T
> Heya Will.I agree with galvanized rigging, its more ductile thanbronze
> stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
> Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just below the
> surface and epoxy puttied them.
> The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
> Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of
> ringshank =$16 to $17.00.If you don't mind 'screw and glue' rather than 'nail and glue',
galvanized drywall screws are VERY cheap. Countersinking and 5200 does
the trick. I've used a dremel tool for the pilot holes and that can
make it go pretty quickly. :)
On another note, I've liked the idea of galvanized rigging for quite
some time, since I was privy to inspect the parceled and served,
detached rigging from an old schooner.. it was as bright an shiny as
new! I'm sure the trick is taking care with the parcel/serve.
I'm told that using cloth electrical tape (you know, the gummy stuff)
+ 'marline' is the best bet these days. Anyone have experience doing
this and can offer tips? I know the basic process... materials advice
would be most helpful! I don't know if I want to get down and dirty
with tar and canvas! ;)
--T
Heya Will.I agree with galvanized rigging, its more ductile than
stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just below the
surface and epoxy puttied them.
The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of bronze
ringshank =$16 to $17.00.
stainless.Galvanized fittings on deck work as well.
Im thinking if I used galvanized nails, sank the heads just below the
surface and epoxy puttied them.
The gal nails I can find here (Australia) dont look bad at all.
Just thinking of a cheap boat, 250g of gal nails = $3.85, 250g of bronze
ringshank =$16 to $17.00.
----- Original Message -----
From: "willoross" <will@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 11:47 PM
Subject: [bolger] galvanized
> Hi Luke
> There are lots of places in the world where people think we are funny
> for our use or stainless in boats they use gaivanized every thing
> even fore stays and all wireing and every thing else on deck.
> WILLO
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - pls take "personals" off-list, stay on topic, and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts, snip all you like
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Hi Luke
There are lots of places in the world where people think we are funny
for our use or stainless in boats they use gaivanized every thing
even fore stays and all wireing and every thing else on deck.
WILLO
There are lots of places in the world where people think we are funny
for our use or stainless in boats they use gaivanized every thing
even fore stays and all wireing and every thing else on deck.
WILLO