Re: [bolger] Re: ouch, I think I made a mistake
In addition to that, David, while the bolt is still hot, try hitting the head of the bolt soundly with a hammer while at the same time applying pressure with a wrench.
Chuck
Try heating it, and applying steady pressure with the wrench.
Chuck
Try heating it, and applying steady pressure with the wrench.
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
>
> One of the bolts that holds on the lower unit is frozen solid (it
is
> a machine screw that must have replaced the original bolt. I would
> like to take off the lower unit and inspect and replace the
> impeller.
>
> 1. How do I get the old bolt out without damaging the lower unit?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
replaced one of the hex-head bolts that pass up through the
lower unit into (in the case of a long-shaft) the extension
housing with a screw (probably rusty) with a screw-driver
slot in it??
Usually the tapped holes in the extension are drilled all
the way through; i.e. you can see the top of the screw/bolt
from above. If, so, soak well in penetration oil (WD-40 is
not penetrating oil). Chebacco Richard's (Hey, Richard, when
do we get to see that boat in the water?!) suggestion of
heating with a propane torch is good.
For a screw-driver slot, trot on down to your nearest purveyor
of cheap tools and pick-up an impact driver that uses a hammer,
usually about 13 to 15 bucks for one made in China by political
prisoners guilty of nothing more than yearning for freedom. I
assume you already have a hammer to use with it.
In the Duckworks "reports" section there is a photo
of Jim Michalak holding an impact driver he bought, new
in the package, at an outboard swap meet for about 2 bucks.
Heat, oil and impact driver shoud fix ya up. Assuming
you are trying to remove the lower unit from the extension,
the worst thing that can happen is you screw up the threads
in the extension. I don't know why you would be trying to
remove the extension from the tower housing.
Not sure what you mean by making a "mistake"???
These are decent engines whether '82 or '73, although
I prefer the older recoil starter, prior to '68.
In my opinion, you would be making a bigger mistake
trying to mount your lawnmower in the boat, as is
suggested by some of the boys in this 'hood.
Of course, salt-water is hard on any outboard and if
available, an engine used only in fresh water is
a safer buy.
Yes, you can get burned with an old outboard;
If you want a warranty, buy a new one. Still, there
are many old outboards out there suffering only from
disuse.
Just heard from a guy in Virginia who read my
essay on old outboards in Duckworks and went out and
bought a 1957 Montgomery Ward's 12 hp for "little of
nothing," and it apparenty runs good. I sent him
a photocopy of the factory parts list for it.
I don't have paperwork for outboards as new as
1973, but I do have a parts break-down and an owner's
manual for a 1972 Evinrude 4 hp, which should be about
the same engine as yours. If you e-mail me an address
I will mail you photo-copies. The parts numbers are
the same as Johnson. Let me know if you have the
"right-angle" lower unit (propeller shaft is horizontal)
or the "weedless" lower unit (propeller shaft angles down
20 degrees from horizontal)
The OMC part number for the impeller is 277181, and
any OMC dealer should have it sitting on the shelf. Or
you can go to a NAPA auto parts place and ask him to
quote you on Sierra part # 18-3001, which is an after-market
impeller which will work as well (I've used lots of 'em) and
should be cheaper, unless he hits you up for shipping
a small order. You might check at a Mercury dealer for
that Sierra impeller as well (The OMC dealer is going to want
to sell you the OMC part)
OMC part number for a water pump repair kit (impeller,
impeller plate, and housing) is 379770 (no Sierra equivalent)
Some other parts ya can get @ NAPA are; 18-5006 (tune-up
kit consisting of 2 sets points and 2 condensers); 18-7043 carb
rebuild kit without float) and a few other odds and ends.
That is not a hard engine to find parts for.
Well, Tonto, our work here is done.
Max
> I just purchased a 4 hp Johnson longshaft motor, vintage 1973 for mydetermined
> Micro. I ran it in a tank prior to purchasing it. The seller
> thought that it was 1 1982, but after much research I have
> it to be much older.like
>
> One of the bolts that holds on the lower unit is frozen solid (it is
> a machine screw that must have replaced the original bolt. I would
> like to take off the lower unit and inspect and replace the
> impeller.
>
> 1. How do I get the old bolt out without damaging the lower unit?
> 2. Where does one find parts for old OMC motors?
>
> This motor fits in the original Micro transom perfectly and runs
> a top. It is a shame not to be able to use it.I am going to assume what you are saying, is that someone
>
> David Jost
> "showing signs of lunacy from long New England winters."
replaced one of the hex-head bolts that pass up through the
lower unit into (in the case of a long-shaft) the extension
housing with a screw (probably rusty) with a screw-driver
slot in it??
Usually the tapped holes in the extension are drilled all
the way through; i.e. you can see the top of the screw/bolt
from above. If, so, soak well in penetration oil (WD-40 is
not penetrating oil). Chebacco Richard's (Hey, Richard, when
do we get to see that boat in the water?!) suggestion of
heating with a propane torch is good.
For a screw-driver slot, trot on down to your nearest purveyor
of cheap tools and pick-up an impact driver that uses a hammer,
usually about 13 to 15 bucks for one made in China by political
prisoners guilty of nothing more than yearning for freedom. I
assume you already have a hammer to use with it.
In the Duckworks "reports" section there is a photo
of Jim Michalak holding an impact driver he bought, new
in the package, at an outboard swap meet for about 2 bucks.
Heat, oil and impact driver shoud fix ya up. Assuming
you are trying to remove the lower unit from the extension,
the worst thing that can happen is you screw up the threads
in the extension. I don't know why you would be trying to
remove the extension from the tower housing.
Not sure what you mean by making a "mistake"???
These are decent engines whether '82 or '73, although
I prefer the older recoil starter, prior to '68.
In my opinion, you would be making a bigger mistake
trying to mount your lawnmower in the boat, as is
suggested by some of the boys in this 'hood.
Of course, salt-water is hard on any outboard and if
available, an engine used only in fresh water is
a safer buy.
Yes, you can get burned with an old outboard;
If you want a warranty, buy a new one. Still, there
are many old outboards out there suffering only from
disuse.
Just heard from a guy in Virginia who read my
essay on old outboards in Duckworks and went out and
bought a 1957 Montgomery Ward's 12 hp for "little of
nothing," and it apparenty runs good. I sent him
a photocopy of the factory parts list for it.
I don't have paperwork for outboards as new as
1973, but I do have a parts break-down and an owner's
manual for a 1972 Evinrude 4 hp, which should be about
the same engine as yours. If you e-mail me an address
I will mail you photo-copies. The parts numbers are
the same as Johnson. Let me know if you have the
"right-angle" lower unit (propeller shaft is horizontal)
or the "weedless" lower unit (propeller shaft angles down
20 degrees from horizontal)
The OMC part number for the impeller is 277181, and
any OMC dealer should have it sitting on the shelf. Or
you can go to a NAPA auto parts place and ask him to
quote you on Sierra part # 18-3001, which is an after-market
impeller which will work as well (I've used lots of 'em) and
should be cheaper, unless he hits you up for shipping
a small order. You might check at a Mercury dealer for
that Sierra impeller as well (The OMC dealer is going to want
to sell you the OMC part)
OMC part number for a water pump repair kit (impeller,
impeller plate, and housing) is 379770 (no Sierra equivalent)
Some other parts ya can get @ NAPA are; 18-5006 (tune-up
kit consisting of 2 sets points and 2 condensers); 18-7043 carb
rebuild kit without float) and a few other odds and ends.
That is not a hard engine to find parts for.
Well, Tonto, our work here is done.
Max
Try heating it, and applying steady pressure with the wrench.
--- In bolger@y..., "dnjost" <djost@m...> wrote:
>
> One of the bolts that holds on the lower unit is frozen solid (it
is
> a machine screw that must have replaced the original bolt. I would
> like to take off the lower unit and inspect and replace the
> impeller.
>
> 1. How do I get the old bolt out without damaging the lower unit?
I just purchased a 4 hp Johnson longshaft motor, vintage 1973 for my
Micro. I ran it in a tank prior to purchasing it. The seller
thought that it was 1 1982, but after much research I have determined
it to be much older.
One of the bolts that holds on the lower unit is frozen solid (it is
a machine screw that must have replaced the original bolt. I would
like to take off the lower unit and inspect and replace the
impeller.
1. How do I get the old bolt out without damaging the lower unit?
2. Where does one find parts for old OMC motors?
This motor fits in the original Micro transom perfectly and runs like
a top. It is a shame not to be able to use it.
David Jost
"showing signs of lunacy from long New England winters."
Micro. I ran it in a tank prior to purchasing it. The seller
thought that it was 1 1982, but after much research I have determined
it to be much older.
One of the bolts that holds on the lower unit is frozen solid (it is
a machine screw that must have replaced the original bolt. I would
like to take off the lower unit and inspect and replace the
impeller.
1. How do I get the old bolt out without damaging the lower unit?
2. Where does one find parts for old OMC motors?
This motor fits in the original Micro transom perfectly and runs like
a top. It is a shame not to be able to use it.
David Jost
"showing signs of lunacy from long New England winters."